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Balenciaga goes where fashion has never dared to go

PARIS — In a cold, dark airplane hangar on the outskirts of Paris, amid reports of more than 1.5 million refugees fleeing Europe from Ukraine, Demna, the unnamed Balenciaga designer who had fled Georgia at the age of 12 during this country’s civil war, built a huge snow globe and started a storm.

In the wind, men and women struggled, holding fake trash bags apparently full of belongings, donning stiletto boots, clutching heavy black coats that flew around them, heads bowed. A few were shivering in boxer shorts, with only towel-like shawls for protection. The long dresses flowed inside out. The music was pounding; overhead, lights (bombs? lightning?) shone in the darkened sky.

Outside the glass, an audience watched, clutching blue and yellow T-shirts the shades and nearly the size of the Ukrainian flag that had been left on each seat, along with a note from the designer (which also read , in Ukrainian, a classic poem — a prayer of strength for Ukraine — by the writer Oleksandr Oles, at the beginning of the programme).

The war had, Demna wrote in the note, “triggered the pain of past trauma that I have carried with me since 1993, when the same thing happened in my country and I became a refugee forever. Forever, because it’s something that stays with you. Fear, despair, the realization that no one wants you.

Thus, a collection originally conceived as a commentary on climate change – a theme that Demna began to explore before the pandemic and which he intended here as a meditation on an imaginary future where snow is relegated to the status of fantasy. created by man – has instead become an exceptionally powerful response to war.

Over the past week and a half of the dispute, fashion has all but apologized for its own existence; dare to offer a frivolous and useless product in a context of global crisis. There has been a lot of lip service to the idea of ​​beauty as an ointment; a lot of things like “All I can do is what I do best”. (Plus, donate cash and emergency supplies, of course, and close stores in Russia.) Lots of reminders to everyone the industry employs.

This is a perfectly valid response to the situation. She can even draw inspiration, as with Valentino, which also began with a voice-over by designer Pierpaolo Piccioli, offering a hymn to the Ukrainian people – “We see you, we feel you, we love you” – before moving on to a collection designed to showcase the power of the individual.

It was built on a single hue: no black or white, but rather a kind of signature hot pink – dubbed Pink PP, about to become an official Pantone color – which was also the hue for the walls and floor. There was a brief section of black, like some sort of palate cleanser, but it was the pink that stood out. And offered an update to the classic Valentino red.

Chunky pink platform shoes under pink tights. Floor-sweeping pink shirt dresses that looked more like royal dresses. Little abbreviated pink sequin dresses. Sheer pink blouses. Molded mini roses. Pink tea dresses covered with flowers. Pink handbags. Pink everywhere we looked, except the faces, which each stood out on their own. The effect was a bit dizzying, but it got the point.

Of course, getting down to business, like Matthew Williams did at Givenchy, is good too.

He combined the streetwear influences first brought to the brand by Riccardo Tisci (layered t-shirts, like a ride through the logos of the past; hooded nylon anoraks under tailored jackets; thigh-high leather boots) with his clichés (“Breakfast at Tiffany’s” beads; ruffled fusions of tulle and organza) plus her own affinity for a bit of hardware. The result was her most cohesive collection to date.

Yet, as Demna has proven, there’s no reason for designers to be afraid to tackle the tough stuff. He had almost, he says in his notes, canceled the Balenciaga show, until “I realized that canceling this show would mean giving in”. So instead, he shook it. It was a risk.

After all: very expensive leather trash bags come dangerously close to bad taste. Although it is the same designer who created very expensive versions of the Ikea bag. Part of his schtick is to elevate the unseen everyday to luxury status, poking fun at the pomposity of the fashion beast.

And the fact that some of his models are wrapped in Balenciaga-branded packing tape jumpsuits might look a lot like a social media-only catnip gimmick.

Especially because Kim Kardashian actually modeled a packing tape look in the audience — an outfit (can you even call it that?) she said took four Balenciaga assistants to create. Not only did the tape make sticky, creaking sounds as it walked, but Ms. Kardashian was, she professed, worried that when she sat down, some sections might tear. (It didn’t, much to her relief, although she said she still didn’t know how she would go to the bathroom.)

Yet backstage after the show, Demna said the tape wasn’t just a joke — it was also a nod to the dressing-up experiences he had as a rootless kid. . And that they would sell the rolls in stores, so everyone could DIY their own look, in a sort of extreme version of do with it and fix it.

The one who has made it clear that for him, the clothes themselves, in ready-to-wear anyway, are perhaps the least of the worries. After all – apart from a strapless denim jumpsuit made from two pairs of jeans (the waist of one formed a bustier over the other), a dress screen-printed to imitate lace, and bags made from merged pairs of boots – most of the stuff as seen through the snow – long jersey dresses, hoodies, asymmetrical flowers, wraparound condoms – looked much the same as they have for a few seasons now.

But combined with last season’s Simpsons show; virtual reality experiences; past and immersive climate change scenarios (for those wondering, most of this season’s set would be recycled, with carbon emissions being offset); plus the Donda shows he worked on with Ye; the unsettling depiction of refugees under glass confirmed Demna’s position as fashion’s greatest and most fearless set designer.

His subject is not the silhouette, it is the human condition. On an epic scale of pop culture.

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French fashion

Stella McCartney nods to Ukraine crisis with Lennon’s anti-war song at winter show

PARIS, March 7 (Reuters) – In a nod to the war in Ukraine, Stella McCartney closed her eponymous label’s winter fashion show to the music of John Lennon’s anti-war ballad “Give Peace a Chance.” .

Models curled up in glass-encased hallways atop the Center Pompidou, parading in elegant bohemian-flavored dresses with pockets and slit balloon sleeves as rhythmic music played, with sweeping views of Paris in the backdrop.

“I believe very strongly in peace and love and obviously using John’s song, who was my dad’s best friend…it just shows for me, it’s a personal song that reflects the thoughts of the world whole, I hope, right now,” McCartney told reporters after the show, referring to her father, Paul McCartney.

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Some fashion designers have spoken publicly about their struggle to find the right tone for their shows and make the decision to go ahead with Paris Fashion Week events as the world focuses on the Ukraine crisis.

The French capital is hosting the latest series of industry fairs which have also taken place in New York, London and Milan, and end on March 8.

In Milan, Georgio Armani acknowledged the crisis by cutting the music for his fashion show. Read more

In Paris, Balenciaga creative director Demna Gvasalia spoke about his experience as a refugee from Georgia and presented guests with Ukrainian flag t-shirts, while Isabel Marant bowed for her brand’s runway show with a blue and yellow top. nL2N2V90CN

“Obviously I’m anti-war… My heart goes out to the people of Ukraine tremendously and it’s heartbreaking, it’s a traumatic experience to go through, so one can only imagine what these poor people are going through,” said McCartney.

His brand is part of the luxury group LVMH (LVMH.PA), which, along with Hermès, Kering, owner of Gucci, and Chanel, announced on Friday a suspension of its operations in Russia.

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Reporting by Mimosa Spencer Editing by Mark Heinrich

Our standards: The Thomson Reuters Trust Principles.

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Fashion style

Everything Looks Different Now – The New York Times

MILAN — Backstage at the Moschino show on Thursday, the day Russia attacked Ukraine, designer Jeremy Scott stood among models dressed in clothes designed to resemble the furnishings of a grand manse — a hat shade which was a real lampshade; a satin bedspread mantle with a pillow as a collar; a grandfather clock dress – and discuss what happens when crisis and fashion collide. Nearby, milliner Stephen Jones attached an entire candelabra to a model’s head.

“I’m just trying to bring some respite, some joy and some beauty into our lives,” Mr. Scott said, as an explanation for the whole show-will-go-on stance. He had no idea what it might look like. “We still need that,” he said, pointing to his sweatshirt which said, with a levity that wasn’t entirely convincing, “Gilt without guilt.”

The fashion bubble, this world-within-a-world that moves with its own rhythm and language twice a year during ready-to-wear fashion shows (or did, before Covid), can seem disconcerting at best. When a global confrontation occurs, however, the contrast between life inside and life outside is particularly shocking.

On one side: the stuff of fantasy and thrift; on the other, streams and titles filled with menace and fear. This may seem almost impossible to reconcile.

Yet fashion, like other expressions of humanity, can be a tool to get through even the worst of times; can be used to feel stronger, more secure, more confident, more efficient, more able to face the day.

The problem is how to think of clothes that were made for one world, but will be seen and worn in another. When reality changes, the appearance of a thing, its purpose, can change overnight.

Max Mara’s team, for example, named Sophie Taeuber-Arp, the early 20th-century Swiss abstract artist, in their exhibition notes, and sent models swaddled from head to toe: in wraparound cashmere and down jackets, teddy bear pants, balaclavas, knit opera gloves, mohair thigh boots.

In a world emerging from Covid, such garments might reek of comfort clothes and the hug of home, but in a world of sanctions and bombings – a world where a guest in a little black dress held up a sign in cardboard scribbled with the message ‘No war in Ukraine’ – they looked more like protective gear, shielding the bodies inside.

Then there was Sunnei, where creators Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina dreamed up a mini commentary on the rush of everyday life, with models running down a side street as if late for a very important appointment, their mix eclectic popcorn knits, wide pants and color block stretch tops flying all around. It was a witty storyline, but it was hard not to see people walking by (some also in balaclavas, a trend that’s taking on a whole new cast), padded backpacks bouncing behind and thinking they were running away. .

Context matters.

That was the problem for Mr. Scott, whose double fashion sense has turned his work into social media catnip and made him the industry’s resident postmodern prankster. A few months ago, when he was designing his collection, a maniacal take on the homebody nature of the past two years, when we all had to find inspiration within our own four walls, probably seemed like a fun idea. Especially when crossed with the ubiquitous promise of space exploration, in the form of a setting based on the ornately decorated bedroom in the final scene of Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey.”

“It’s ‘2001: A Space Opulence’,” Mr Scott joked backstage. He was referring to suits and trench coats sporting tap and cutlery buttons, and a ruffled little black dress with the motto “maid in Italy” and a feather duster for a hat – not to mention a dress in gold carrying a full-size harp with crystal strings on the back, even though the movie that first came to mind was Disney’s “Beauty and the Beast.” Often, Mr. Scott’s sartorial puns serve as a cover for sharp, stylized cultural commentary, but this time they seemed less of a wink than unnecessary.

What exactly was he grinding? It could have been the oligarchs (who would have changed course), but instead it seemed to be… the interior design industry.

Mr Scott’s first Moschino show, held eight years ago, happened to take place at the start of the 2014 Ukrainian uprising. Then, as now, it created a stark contrast.

,Another: Just outside the Prada show – where crowds were screaming to catch a glimpse of celebrity guest Kim Kardashian (in a leather trench coat and jumpsuit from the January men’s show) and “Euphoria’s” Hunter Schafer, who modeled – two women unfurled a Ukrainian Flag.

That’s why the contrast at the heart of what Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have explored at Prada since joining forces two years ago is so suddenly on point. Its power lies in the willingness of designers to fight push-pull from different points of view. This season was no different, with tensions between the masculine and the feminine, the hidden and the exposed, the very flowery and the very essential.

A basic white ribbed tank top was paired with a sheer skirt in some kind of metallic fabric, made to be wrinkled and shiny, sometimes sliced ​​by inserts of pink satin or gray flannel, sometimes hanging petal-like sequins that seemed to weigh more than the material itself.

Skirts reappeared as shift dresses over more tank tops and cropped underwear, paired with 1970s graphic knits (the kind Prada made famous years ago), oversized blazers and cotton coats. leather with protruding shoulders and feathers springing from the elbows. Occasionally there was an interregnum of black, like a palate cleanser: woolen coats and robes with chains threaded around the neck and fastened over one shoulder; knee-length silk dresses with built-in corsets.

It was not revolutionary; most of the pieces (or their ancestors) had already appeared on the Prada runways in another era. But then, the designers were exploring the brand’s past. If you don’t learn anything from history etc.

As a point, it was particularly on the nose.

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French fashion

Children of famous fashion brands go their own way

MILAN — When Alice Etro was a little girl, she used to spend hours after school with her father, Kean Etro, creative director of Etro menswear, playing with fabric swatches in the design studio of the fashion brand in which his grandfather Gimmo started. 1968. She creates clothes from scraps for her dolls and plays with the tubes of rolls of fabric.

“I loved everything,” she said. She remembers the thrill of watching a parade and walking alone with her parents. “I wanted to be him,” she added, of her designer dad. She was expected to follow in his footsteps and join the family business, just as he and his three siblings had followed their parents. As, indeed, has been the norm among many Italian fashion dynasties.

There is an expression in Italian – “capitalismo familiare” or family capitalism – which refers to the transmission of a private enterprise from one generation to the next, said Matteo Persivale, special correspondent for the Corriere della Sera newspaper. For decades, this has been the rule in fashion where brand stewardship has been passed down like a well-guarded saffron risotto recipe or a chalet in Cortina.

Angela, Luca and Vittorio Missoni took over from their parents, Rosita and Ottavio, the founders of Missoni, for example. Silvia Fendi is a third-generation Fendi, working in the company her grandparents Adele and Edoardo founded in 1925 (and her daughter, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, is now artistic director of jewelry). James Ferragamo, third-generation descendant of Salvatore Ferragamo, the founder of Ferragamo, is director of brand, product and communications for the family business. And one of the fourth generation of Zegna, Edoardo Zegna, is in the running to take over the brand, created in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Entering the family business was such a common practice, says Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of Emilio Pucci, that even when she worked for Hubert de Givenchy in the late 1980s in Paris, he always told her: “Soon you will come back home to take over your father’s business. She did, in 1989, and described the concept of taking on the mantle of the family business as “quite normal and organic.”

But a combination of the globalization of luxury, which has led many family businesses to sell stakes to conglomerates or become publicly traded entities to survive, and the blurring of lines between all creative disciplines, has changed the narrative.

Increasingly, the next generation of big luxury families – often referred to as “figli d’arte”, a term referring to a child who inherits a parent’s profession, usually in the arts – is looking ahead. beyond the ancestral parapet, applying what she learned while growing up in one creative sector to work in another.

Ms. Etro, for example, 34, studied fashion design at Istituto Marangoni, one of Milan’s leading fashion schools, and spent around 10 years at another family sewing and textile company, Larusmiani. (where his uncle Guglielmo Miani is general manager).

But in 2019, rather than joining Etro as she had imagined, Ms Etro became the creative director of Westwing Italia, one of 11 national sites operated by a European interiors e-commerce retailer specializing in daily newsletters. offering a world of shopping. household items, from bed linen to dishes.

“I prefer mass over niche,” Ms. Etro said. “Luxury should be for everyone. It doesn’t have to be expensive and out of reach. Her family has been supportive of her decision to branch out, she continued, noting that these are times like the time she spent as a child in her grandmother Ghighi Miani’s atmospheric Milanese home, with its maximalist interiors, who ultimately perhaps inspired her the most.

Alessandro Marinella, 27, a fourth-generation member of the family that founded E. Marinella, the Neapolitan company known for making printed silk ties dear to President Barack Obama, is not only helping the brand grow in the field digital, but focuses on something he considers just as ingrained in the tradition of luxury as ties: food.

In 2019, Mr. Marinella co-founded Marchio Verificato, which produces, certifies and supplies Italian specialty foods. The company not only distributes some of the best Italian produce to shops and restaurants, but grows crops in the traditional way: for example, its Vesuvio Piennolo tomatoes are grown in volcanic soil, then strung on hemp threads, tied in circles and kept dry for months. .

“Eating well is important,” Mr. Marinella said, “but where and how also denotes a kind of social status.”

Technology too, according to Francesca Versace, 39, daughter of Santo Versace, brother of Donatella and founder of the Gianni brand. As a result, she traded her ready-to-wear birthright for the chance to start an NFT business.

“My love for fashion will never diminish; it’s in my heart,” she said of her family’s accomplishments. But she thinks the zeitgeist has changed.

“My gut tells me it’s time to move to the new space,” she said, referring to the metaverse. “It’s more of a cultural change than a technological one.

Later this spring, she and her partners plan to unveil Public Pressure, an NFT marketplace with an in-house NFT creative studio to help musicians, brands, and movie studios conceptualize NFT campaigns. The company – founded by Ms. Versace; Giulia Maresca, former designer of Christian Louboutin and Tod’s; Sergio Mottola, a blockchain entrepreneur; and music industry insider Alfredo Violante — is destined, Ms. Versace said, to recreate the Versace razzmatazz she remembers from her family’s fashion shows, but in the digital space.

Likewise, Larissa Castellano Pucci, 34, daughter of Laudomia and granddaughter of Emilio, thinks the future is virtual. She studied information science at Cornell University and worked as a 3D artist for Satore Studio, a creative company in London, rather than going into the family brand (which, anyway, was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2000). And in January, Ms. Pucci released her first collection on DressX, a digital-only clothing retail platform.

Called Marea, the collection included garments that shimmer like fish scales, seaweed-like billowing hems, and dresses produced from tiny digital seashells. It is now set to be part of Crypto Fashion Week, a week-long event in March dedicated to blockchain-powered digital fashion.

“It’s rare for someone so junior to have creative carte blanche,” Ms. Pucci said of the appeal of working with DressX, rather than a traditional atelier. In the real world, “it’s almost impossible to create something completely new as a young designer” because costs and small production runs hold you back.

This spring, FouLara, Ms. Pucci’s scarf brand, plans to launch an NFT minting service to allow users to design and mint custom NFT prints.

Laudomia Pucci said she was thrilled Larissa was trying something that resonated with her and her generation – and she thinks Emilio Pucci would have looked on with affection too. “It’s necessary in Italy,” she said. “We have to look to the future, not just to our great past.”

Her daughter agreed. “If you come from a background that has so many things, you follow in the footsteps or try to forge your own identity,” Ms. Pucci said. “Otherwise, it is abusive. I can only re-imagine my legacy; I can’t escape it.

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Fashion designer

The youngest Indian designer to present his collection at Paris Fashion Week

It’s a dream come true for Binal Patel, designer and founder of ‘TheRealB’, who is set to present her collection at Paris Fashion Week on February 28.

Binal is 25 years old and the founder of a local ready-to-wear brand that embraces authenticity in craftsmanship, fabrics, colors and culture. The label caters to an ever-changing aesthetic of real confident beauties and is available through online and offline platforms on its official website and e-commerce sites like Nykaa Luxe, Salt Studio, Asos, ZoWed, Aza Fashions, Pernia’s Pop up, Azra, Deccan, the house of labels.

Ahead of her show in Paris, Binal talks to IANSlife about what it’s like to show off her designs at one of fashion’s biggest events. Read excerpts:

Q: How is it to be part of Paris Fashion Week?

A: When Flying Solo approached us to participate in Paris Fashion Week, we were thrilled! It gave wings to my whole team who supported me from day one through the ups and downs. It is literally a concrete example of “A dream come true”. And I’m quite proud of myself and my team because our efforts have paid off. This is a proud moment for India.

Q: What can we expect from the collection?

A: Well, that’s a surprise! But to give you some clues, the collection will have twists and turns with bold and fun designs that will make you feel sexier. And that is, “Why should only girls have fun?”

Q: What kinds of surface textures and techniques can we expect?

A: The collection will feature a touch of texture and sheer fabrics as well as animal prints. Again, the rest is surprise, we will see a lot of fun and innovation on the track.

Q: Are you a fan of slow or fast fashion?

A: I’m a big believer in slow fashion, in addition to designing luxurious styles, creating a conscious and sustainable clothing line is also of the utmost importance to me.

Q: What is your design philosophy?

A: Nature has always been the inspiration behind all my collections, all my designs are imbued with elements of nature. Creating bold, tailored fashion is my design philosophy, but again, as I mentioned, creating conscious clothing will always be my priority. We have designs made from orange peel, regenerated nylon, banana cloth, milk cloth and more.

Q: Are you all nervous or super excited about the screening?

A: There are mixed feelings, half of me dances and jumps with enthusiasm while the other half spends restless nights because I want to create the right impression.

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Fashion brand

Luxury fashion brand Balenciaga to open a Tysons Galleria store

Tysons shoppers will soon be able to dress like Justin Bieber — provided they have an extra $1,000 to spend on a pair of sneakers.

Luxury fashion house Balenciaga will open a boutique at Tysons Galleria tomorrow (Thursday), its first in Virginia and the DC area, a spokesperson confirmed to Tysons Reporter.

The store measures 133 square meters (or 1,431 square feet) and will sell the brand’s ready-to-wear clothing as well as bags, shoes, eyewear and accessories.

A press release highlights the store’s “intentionally eroded concrete facade” and “deconstructed” architecture, which Balenciaga says make it a more environmentally friendly design.

“The resulting structures inherently require less virgin material,” the press release reads. “In line with Balenciaga policies, new stores and renovations aim to achieve the highest standards of sustainable practices.”

Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, who opened the house’s first official boutique in Paris, France, in 1937. His work was notable for its clean lines and full silhouettes, serving as inspiration for the film “Phantom Thread” by Paul Thomas Anderson.

The company now operates more than 100 stores worldwide, including 30 in the United States.

Balenciaga joins New Zealand clothing store Rodd & Gunn, which now appears to be open next to Kate Spade, and restaurant Empanadas De Mendoza as the latest additions to Tysons Galleria.

The mall also plans to add furniture store CB2, a CinéBistro movie theater, Crate & Barrel, a Yard House sports bar, and more. Many newcomers will occupy the space of the old Macy’s, which has been remodeled and divided into smaller units.

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Fashion designer

Nino Cerruti gave elegance a good reputation

Elegance, said Nino Cerruti, got on his nerves. It was the kind of remark you can afford to make when you’re easily the most elegant man in the room. And Mr. Cerruti, who died last month at the age of 91, embodied that attribute, a quality rarely encountered but undeniable when you are in his presence.

“It can be learned, but you have to have a natural disposition for it,” he said in a interview at L’Officiel USA last year.

Although sartorial elegance is an instinct, as Mr. Cerruti suggested, it can be anatomized. It stems from knowing yourself and staying true to yourself; to ruthlessly assess physical flaws and strengths in order to understand the effect of your body moving through space. It depends, to some extent, on learning the basics of dress-up before throwing it.

As we enter the third year of a still, mostly pandemic, sitting at home in our relaxed duds, it might seem that having an aptitude for elegance is as useful as knowing how to prune a bonsai tree.

Yet, as recent menswear and couture shows across Europe suggest, a stylish mirage looms on the horizon. Designers, experts and consumers are looking for reasons to dress up again – regularly and in public. By this one, we don’t mean for Instagram selfies or red-letter events like, say, the Met Gala, which has come to look like the fashion version of Comic Con.

On the catwalks and showrooms of Milan and Paris, brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Tod’s represented individual visions of clothing that nodded obliquely at Mr. Cerruti, who insiders know he laid the foundations of a post-war Italian ready-to-wear industry that produced Italian clothing. elegance a global identity.

“I’m very drawn to this idea of ​​chic,” Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi said last month in Milan after previewing a beautiful capsule collection of reworked classics that could have been hacked into wardrobes. of a certain type of Italian. of a particular pedigree – someone like Nino Cerruti. “These northern Italians traditionally had that quality,” Mr. Chiapponi said. ” It is a question of culture.

The poster of this form of chic was by reflex Gianni Agnelli, the industrialist and heir to Fiat. Mr. Agnelli, however, was a showboat, partly a creation of a post-war tabloid culture fascinated by the doings of a newly minted cosmopolitan jet set.

The contrast between the two men is also instructive. Where Mr. Agnelli’s signatures (knotted-shoulder sweaters, denim skiwear, soft-soled driving shoes, ties tucked into waistbands, wristwatches worn on a shirt cuff) came together as expressions of sprezzatura, an overused term for elegance thrown wide, Mr. Cerruti’s was more authentic and relaxed. He dressed so as not to be noticed. Yet when you were with him, you wondered why he looked so much better than anyone else in sight.

“He was the most stylish man I’ve ever met,” said Emanuele Farneti, fashion and style editor at Italian daily La Repubblica. “He was the symbol of a certain elegance specific to regions and generations, such as Milan and Turin. It’s a kind of chic that’s the opposite of showing off.

In a sense, Mr Farneti said, it’s no surprise that Cerruti “discovered Armani”, whom the older man spotted as a relative stranger employed at the La Rinascente department store and hired to design menswear. for his Hitman label. In his 50-year career, Giorgio Armani has rarely strayed from a calm basic aesthetic. When critics criticize the apparent monotony of his work, they also tend to overlook his early innovations.

More than any other designer, Mr. Armani can be credited with popularizing the deconstructed suit. And, intentionally or not, contemporary designers like Jerry Lorenzo at Fear of God or Mike Amiri at Amiri nod to his legacy with each new collection of their high-end streetwear. Mr. Armani did not “invent” deconstruction, however. If anyone, Nino Cerruti did it. “He was the trailblazer,” said Nick Sullivan, Esquire’s creative director.

Coming from a family of industrialists whose Lanificio Cerruti woolen mills were founded in 1881 in the northern town of Biella, Mr. Cerruti was the first to notice the potential to diversify from fabric manufacturing to tailoring. “With Walter Albini, he was the forerunner of what became Italian ready-to-wear,” Sullivan said. “He was a rock star in the late 60s.”

Among the innovations Mr. Cerruti pioneered were wetsuits stripped of their rigid interior structures. “He was among the first to deconstruct the jacket,” said Angelo Flaccavento, an Italian style writer.

Unlike the soft Neapolitan shirt tailoring popular since the 1920s, when upper-class Englishmen sent their tailors to Naples to copy local techniques, Mr. Cerruti retained the structure of his suits while relaxing them. The simple decision to remove linen, flannel, horsehair and other basic elements from traditional suits ultimately affected the course of modern menswear.

Mr. Cerruti was a pioneer in many other ways. In the early days of the asexual fashion concept, which he called “couples’ clothing,” he also regularly dressed celebrities, including Anita Ekberg, Jean-Paul Belmondo, and Harrison Ford, and not because his publicists stalked them for lucrative endorsements. Many of his star customers, he says, “came as customers of my Paris boutique.”

Curiously, given that he has provided clothing for countless films, his cinematic contribution has generally gone unrecognized. “So many things that people think Armani was in the movies were Cerruti,” designer Umit Benan noted last week by phone from Milan.

Although it was costume designer Marilyn Vance who chose the ‘Pretty Woman’ wardrobe, it was her choice of the Cerruti costume that dignified the millionaire played by Richard Gere and gave an enduring elegance to an essentially generic character. .

Cerruti designs have appeared in films as disparate as “Wall Street” and “The Silence of the Lambs” and have been worn by generations of fashionable men. Yet no one has ever managed to look as stylish as the designer himself. There were her sorbet-colored sweaters draped (but not tied) over the shoulders. There were her quirky polka dot green socks worn with gray flannel pants. There were his pinstriped shirts invariably worn over a dark T-shirt and under a tweed jacket, with no tie. There were his Yohji Yamamoto sneakers and the sewing tricks that few experts could detect.

“He was very aware of his body and his figure and how to work with it,” Flaccavento said.

Tall and lanky, Mr. Cerruti was long in the chest and dressed in a way that minimized the flaws in his figure. “In my mind, I see him in a soft suit, usually gray, with an open-necked shirt with a contrasting dark T-shirt underneath,” said Peter Speliopoulos, former creative director of DKNY and who was one of the many talents. (Véronique Nichanian of Hermès and Narciso Rodriguez were others) spotted or hired early on by Mr. Cerruti.

“He belted his high pants, wore a well-worn leather belt, to accentuate his waist – or give the illusion of really long legs,” Mr Speliopoulos said.

Until the end, he smoked like a fiend and lit his cigarettes with matches, somehow lending an element of chic even to this habit. “He was devilishly elegant,” said Mr. Flaccavento, who in 2015 organized an exhibition at Florence’s Museo Marino Marini of clothes from Mr. Cerruti’s personal wardrobe – he rarely threw anything away – which included suits, jackets, pants, evening wear. and capes tracing the evolution of Italian menswear through six decades.

Among the most fascinating items on display in this exhibit was a moth-ventilated frayed woolen jacket. Humble as he was, there was elegance in the designer’s shameless decision to not just keep an old garment, but to display it as representative of himself.

“I kept it for a simple reason,” Mr. Cerruti told that reporter at the time. “I’ve always loved this fabric.”

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Fashion style

Adaptable, provocative, combatively feminine fashion

Designer Jonathan Liang launched his eponymous label in 2014 with the aim of creating “adaptable, provocative yet combatively feminine” womenswear, he wanted to juxtapose his “dream universe” with clothes that women could actually wear in their lives. daily.

Although he launched his Paris-based label long before the current fashion industry disruption in 2022, Liang hasn’t had it easy. For decades, too much fashion has circulated around the world. With new brands popping up almost daily on social media, it’s not easy to stand out, with a distinct creative voice, and make enough money to stay in business.

Originally from Malaysia, Liang has worked for several major fashion brands, including Givenchy and Surface to Air, and this journey has probably given him a better understanding of the vagaries of creating an independent fashion brand.

Still, having survived for more than eight years isn’t bad in an industry as full of fashion failures as it is successes.

Although you could describe the brand as international, it’s its ties to Australia and Asia that have helped Liang expand outside of the traditional European and American markets. Which is doubly helpful now that the rest of the world is slowly eating itself alive due to the economic and social impact of the Coronavirus, Covid19.

In addition to this most unexpected catastrophe, the entire fashion world has slowly woken up to issues of sustainability, ethical production, waste and customer desires to buy less and practice conscious consumerism more widely. .

Sustainability and Covid19

So how does a relatively young, contemporary womenswear brand deal with these additional issues as it grapples with global competitors? Liang says the impact of Covid19 has changed the way he designs and even affected some of the concepts of the brand’s aesthetics while keeping its underlying values ​​intact.

“In terms of design, we decided to prioritize comfort above all else. Since the pandemic, we believe that people are looking for something more comforting, not only physically but also mentally,” says Liang.

“It didn’t change the way we create, it was a lot of asking, is it good for our skin but in [the] context of the new world that we [are moving into]? The fashion industry has definitely changed as a whole, and we are constantly adapting while maintaining our basic design principles. »

As for the growing movement towards more sustainable and ethical clothing production, Liang says he has always taken this into consideration when designing and producing the brand.

“We always think about sustainability, not just [for] the environment, but also the sustainability of the company as a whole, as well as governance,” says Liang. “We are doing what we can to ensure that the smallest [environmental] impact as possible, such as controlling the amount of production, types of fabrics and designs that require very little, if any, waste.

Liang also says the company has always practiced ethical employment, but ensuring its manufacturers and staff have a “solid standard of living from day one.”

A wild garden

Liang’s latest collections have all been influenced by nature, with the concept of a “romantically carefree landscape filled with dramatic creatures” seen throughout.

Flowers feature heavily, not as garish patterns and prints, but rather as an aesthetic backdrop for soft, voluminous and romantic garments. Lace details combined with girlish/boyish cuts create a modern Edwardian vibe.

While pretty and quite #cottagecore in concept, Liang’s current collection includes pieces perfect for the workplace; should we ever come back. The clever use of more masculine fabrics cut into shirt-dress shapes with asymmetrical detailing blends the boy-girl aesthetic perfectly.

Jonathan Liang’s Spring-Summer 2021 collection maintains the romantic and carefree landscape of his previous work: “Each ready-to-wear piece imagined by the brand is not only inspired by, but reflects the characteristics of this fiery plane: from common thought, to the striking flamingo – elements of natural natives prevail in Jonathan Liang’s oeuvre and collective history, fused with her definition of expressive femininity.

The brand’s fabrics are a glorious explosion of all things delicate and beautiful – organza, tulle, lace, silk, silk jersey and Broderie Anglaise. Peachy pinks, white, soft lilacs and grays are offset by black and white in the current season’s color palette for Spring Summer 2021. Quality detailing and craftsmanship ensure garments look beautifully crafted with a sense of timeless craftsmanship about them.

The future of fashion

Jonathan Liang’s cute wearables manifest a nostalgic wish for the pre-Covid19 era, when picnics – or brunch at a trendy cafe – were a daily occasion.

Where will we wear these delicate and feminine pieces in the future? Will we be willing to spend our dwindling money on them? I suppose so, women with a sense of romance, sweetness and wishful thinking will gladly take Liang’s offerings to heart, if only for the nostalgic comfort they bring.

As for the brand, Liang agrees that the fashion industry has undergone some upheaval, but is not yet sure where the future will land.

“…It very much depends on the mindset of each brand’s customers and their circumstances too…so we prioritize slower fashion that stands the test of time.”

You can buy Jonathan Liang online at society-a.com/brand/jonathan-liang/or go to www.jonathan-liang.com/stockists.

For more interesting interviews with fashionable creatives, head over to our Style section.

The original version of the article first appeared on nikibruce.com.

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French fashion

Yves Saint Laurent in 5 French museums

PARIS — Sixty years to the day after presenting his first collection under his own name, Yves Saint Laurent, the designer synonymous with French fashion who died in 2008, is once again taking Paris by storm. Or rather, his creations are.

From Saturday to May 15, 50 pieces from the couturier’s vast oeuvre will be presented in the permanent collections of five of the most prestigious French museums: the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay, the Center Pompidou, the Musée d’Art Moderne in Paris and the Picasso Museum in Paris. And the Yves Saint Laurent Museumin the former headquarters of the designer on avenue Marceau, will exhibit sketches, Polaroid photographs and rare canvases illustrating the processes and know-how that go into the creation of couture.

Organizers say the contemporary exhibitions of “Yves Saint Laurent at the Museums,” 18 months of the pandemic in the making, will be the first time a couturier has been honored in so many classical institutions at once. But it would be yet another of Mr. Saint Laurent’s firsts, including being the first couturier to embrace ready-to-wear, the first to take inspiration from street style and one of the first designers to put on color models on the runway. And that could put an end to the eternal debate about the place of high fashion in high art.

Mouna Mekouar, co-curator of the exhibition and specialist in contemporary art (this will be her first fashion exhibition), said that while fashion and art have traditionally existed in parallel worlds, this separation does not apply more.

“I think that in 2022, we live in a time where we no longer need to ask ourselves the question of whether fashion is art, or whether art is art. “, she said during an interview at Café Beaubourg, in the shadow of the Center Pompidou.

“Today, we live in a multi and transdisciplinary universe made of links, so the old labels no longer really make sense,” she added. “I don’t think you can understand a fashion designer, whoever he is, without taking into account the contemporary creation that surrounds him. Likewise, I don’t think you can understand a contemporary artist without also looking at what’s happening in fashion.

None of the institutions, she said, hesitated for a moment when they proposed the joint show.

The genius of Saint Laurent, Ms. Mekouar said, was that it blurred the lines between fashion and art from the start.

“He looked at various civilizations and art forms and reacted to the art of his time,” she said. “It heralded the arrival of the 21st century. His gaze was pluralistic: there is no hierarchy, just multiple centers of interest.

“He completely assimilated the work of an artist to reinvent it,” she continues. “Even when the reference is direct, there is always a twist of its own. And his work still has meaning all over the world today because he did it before anyone else.

Saint Laurent’s references were so multiple that the exhibition could have gone “in a thousand different directions”, she says. To stay the course, Ms. Mekouar; Stephan Janson, its co-curator; and Madison Cox, President of the Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent Foundation, worked closely with museum directors and curators to mix the selections with each institution’s collections.

At the Center Pompidou, for example, 500 Polaroids of YSL friends, muses and models including Kate Moss, Carla Bruni, Stella Tennant and Naomi Campbell give a table a Warholian air. A dress from Picasso’s Fall-Winter 1979 collection, with undercuts that reflect the work of French artist Sonia Delaunay, is on display in the Delaunay room. A green coat from the 1971 Scandal collection rubs “Made in Japan,” the Pop work of Martial Raysse, a contemporary of the couturier.

Then there are the famous Mondrian dresses of Autumn-Winter 1965, which brought Dutch painter Piet Mondrian’s work to the fore to a French audience – a decade before Pompidou acquired “Composition en rouge, bleu and white II”. In the exhibition, a YSL Mondrian dress and the painting come together for the first time.

“This project had a particular resonance for the Pompidou,” said Xavier Rey, director of the museum, “because not only was Yves Saint Laurent the first to connect couture to the art he loved and collected, but also because the museum was the place where he chose to say goodbye to fashion, in 2002” — a reference to the couturier’s last fashion show, a 45-minute retrospective. The film of this event will be screened at the museum.

At the Museum of Modern Art, the facilities have been rearranged and the lighting dimmed to accommodate garments that showcase another facet of 20th-century art, with a denim coat dress from the ready-to-wear line. Spring-Summer 1970 Rive Gauche designer wear paired with striped painted panels by Daniel Buren, a former street artist. And at the Musée d’Orsay, which specializes in works from the 19th century, the point of contact is not art, but literature. Marcel Proust, whose works were a source of inspiration for Saint Laurent, is indirectly referenced by one of the designer’s trademarks – Le Smoking, or women’s tuxedo – a nod to the once radical concept of masculine -feminine (currently known as gender fluidity). ).

In front of the large Orsay clock at the entrance to the Impressionist collections, five tuxedos, including the very first Saint Laurent from 1966, as well as two Belle Epoque-inspired dresses. Both were designed for the 1971 Bal Proust – one, worn by Jane Birkin, was crafted in ivory crepe with leg-of-mutton sleeves and guipure lace while the other, modeled by ball hostess Marie- Hélène de Rothschild, was in ivory satin with black trim.

They are all exposed to the view of Édouard Manet’s 1863 painting “Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe”, or “The Luncheon on the Grass”, another of Mr. Saint Laurent’s recurring obsessions. Further into the Impressionist collections, an alcove dedicated to graphic arts shows sketches of Saint Laurent clothing creations and photos of loyal YSL customers, such as Hélène Rochas, wife of designer Marcel Rochas, in a low-cut black velvet dress of cattleya orchids. in white satin.

In the gold of the Louvre Apollo Gallerywhich houses the jewels of the French crown, four richly embroidered jackets celebrate the glories of France and its know-how.

A Hommage à Ma Maison jacket, a tribute from the designer to his little hands and in organza heavily encrusted with rock crystal and embroidered with gold thread, was on display near the collection of carved rock crystal objects of King Louis XIV. A heart pendant made of rhinestones and cast glass, part of the semiology used by Saint Laurent to designate a favorite model during a parade, joined a display of replica jewelry.

Mr. Cox, chairman of the foundation and widower of Mr. Bergé, noted that he thinks Saint Laurent would be delighted with the company his work keeps. “Although Mr. Saint Laurent was perhaps not the most modest person in the world,” he said, “I think he desperately wanted to be considered an artist. He was a missed artist .

Geographically and figuratively, the event covers a lot of ground. Even so, Ms. Mekouar and Mr. Cox said these were just some of the themes yet to be extracted from the nearly 7,000 YSL garments, 50,000 accessories and thousands of sketches of collections, sets and interiors. costumes kept in archives all over France. And that doesn’t include treasures like the more than 250 pieces and prototypes donated to the foundation in 2019 by YSL muse Betty Catroux.

“I hope this type of exhibition can be applied to other places,” Mr. Cox said, “so that we can get out of the idea of ​​the fashion exhibition as we know it.”

Mr. Rey of the Center Pompidou said: “It is our duty to present art in all its forms. Through today’s designers, we see that, more than ever, fashion has a rightful place.

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Fashion brand

Production Coordinator – Pedestrian Jobs

We are currently seeking applications for a production coordinator position. This is a career opportunity for a highly motivated individual to join our growing team, located in our Sydney warehouse and studio in Alexandria, Sydney.

The successful candidate will have at least 2 years of experience working within a high-end/fashion brand (or other relevant experience) in a production-based role, demonstrating a passion and strong understanding of fashion.

This is a fast-paced position that will reward the successful candidate with the opportunity to grow within the company.

Main responsibilities

  • Work closely with the Production Manager to ensure seasonal deadlines are met
  • Assist in the approval of production fabrics, linings and trims against the design department’s set of standards
  • Help update and maintain seasonal production department trackers and storyboards for weekly team WIP meetings
  • Liaise with freight forwarders/logistics for all incoming bulk fabric and trim orders
  • Receive, cross check and file all production invoices for payment
  • Receive and review supplier invoices against purchase orders and liaise with the Production Manager to resolve any discrepancies
  • Liaise effectively and proactively with suppliers on a daily basis and always demonstrate commercial acumen and professionalism
  • Provide hands-on support to production team and manager on production requirements, including quality control processes
  • Work alongside the Production Manager and Director to develop objectives in relation to production processes
  • Work with suppliers to resolve any production or quality issues during the production process under the direction of the Production Manager
  • Assist with the management of seasonal fabrics, including tracking stock levels for orders and recuts
  • Assist with increasing trim orders and packaging trims for production orders for ready-to-wear and swimwear
  • Garment deliveries and collections from local production partners as needed
  • Ad hoc tasks as requested by management

Main attributes/requirements

  • Strong work ethic and enthusiasm to help in any areas required
  • Understanding of pattern making and strong knowledge of RTW garment construction and fabrication
  • Positive attitude
  • Extremely organized with great accuracy and attention to detail
  • Highly focused to ensure accuracy and minimize errors
  • Foresight to see where help is needed and offer to step in and help
  • Ability to meet deadlines and work in a fast-paced environment
  • Effective time management skills and ability to multi-task and work under pressure
  • Excellent written and verbal communication skills
  • Ability to build and maintain strong relationships with internal and external suppliers and stakeholders
  • Disciplined and able to work independently and work well with internal teams
  • Strong team spirit
  • A willingness to learn and apply to any situation
  • Strong belief in sustainable and ethical business practices with the conviction and desire to ensure this filters into all areas of the business
  • Longer hours will be required during busier times
  • Ability to anticipate problems and threats, ability to take initiative in problem solving
  • Strong computer skills with the ability to learn various internal software systems as well as Excel, Word, Google Drive
  • Physically fit and strong to move and lift boxes in the warehouse
  • Valid Australian driver’s license and a reliable car

Advantages

  • Strong career progression opportunities available
  • New office with state-of-the-art features in the center of Alexandria
  • Generous clothing allowance and ongoing discounts
  • Supportive and fun team culture

Please submit all applications to [email protected]

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Fashion designer

& Other Stories collaborates with Minju Kim for Spring 2022

& Other Stories is about to bring romance and whimsy to your spring wardrobe with a special collaboration designed by Minjukim. The Seoul-based designer, who was the first Netflix winner Next in fashion, has created a playful spring collection of ready-to-wear and accessories inspired by its fairytale aesthetic.

In addition to winning Next in fashion, Minju Kim won the H&M Design Award 2015 and launched her eponymous brand the same year. Kim was also a semi-finalist of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers. “Since Next in Fashion, many fans around the world, including those who weren’t interested in fashion before, have sent me messages,” Kim said in a press release. “I am delighted that the co-lab allows all those MINJUKIM lovers to easily access and experience our creations and gives us the opportunity to show our clothes to a wider audience. I was waiting for this kind of opportunity for a long time. and I’m so glad it’s with & Other Stories! “

According to Rocky af Ekenstam Brennicke, Brand Manager and Creative at & Other Stories, the Colab Minjukim is a wearable synergy between playfulness and avant-garde haute couture in a modern and appealing way to women. We expect it to feature Kim’s iconic puffed sleeves, smocked silhouettes, calming colors, and fun prints. Available in select stores and on Stories.com, the Colab Minjukim & Other Stories collection will be available from spring 2022.

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Fashion style

Fashion fell for Blackpink in 2021


Other than their army of dedicated fans, the Blinks, no one loved Blackpink more in 2021 than the fashion industry. Lisa, Rosé, Jisoo, and Jennie have long been designer favorites, but they’ve been front and center this year like never before. Each member brought something different to the conversation. Whether it was Rosé becoming the first K-Pop star to dazzle at the Met Gala or Lisa launching her solo career with a vintage video that broke the internet, they helped liven up the year in style.

Thanks to their respective contracts, the girls have a special place during fashion week. During the Cruise 2022 Collections in June, Jisoo thrilled fans at Dior’s destination show at the Panathenaic Stadium in Greece by offering a glimpse of Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection moments before she stepped onto the catwalk. . Her refined white linen dress, paired with the brand’s hybrid sneaker booties, captured the vibe of Chiuri’s show and her sporty Greco-Roman influences.

During Chanel’s spring 2022 ready-to-wear collection, Jennie returned to number one in a look that showcased everything young and playful about the 111-year-old house. Sure, she could’ve worn a little black jacket, but Jennie’s red tweed miniskirt and matching cropped cardigan were nonstop. Styled to the end with multiple double C necklaces and layered bead sashes, it was Chanel through Gen-Z’s lens and made her stand out in a crowd filled with beautiful brand ambassadors.

Rosé kept things interesting with many highlight moments, including the launch of her debut single “On the Ground” and her trending music video, which featured looks from Alex Perry, Re / Done and of course Saint Laurent. . A muse for designer Anthony Vaccarello, she joined him at the Met Gala is one of the most alluring looks of the night: a tight LBD amplified by the addition of an oversized white bow and choker dazzling clover motif with hundreds of crystals set against enamel. Of course, jewelry has become a priority for Rosé, who has made a lucrative ambassadorial contact with Tiffany and Co. this year as well.

No BlackPink discussion would be complete without the group’s rapper Lisa, who cemented her status as Queen of Daily Post. Even with the launch of his solo EP Lalisa to face, she still found time to maintain one of the most compelling Instagram feeds. Filled with plenty of glimpses of Celine’s latest offerings from Hedi Slimane, behind-the-scenes glimpses into the life of a pop superstar, and a glimpse into her ever-changing hair color, she was the must-have fad of 2021.


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Fashion designer

Visa Fashion Week in Almaty puts Kazakhstan on the global fashion map


Despite all the fabulous optimism broadcast live, the fashion industry is struggling to cope with the negative impact of the global pandemic. From supply chain disruptions to anxious consumer confidence, the latest forecast from the McKinsey Global Fashion Index “an uneven recovery”After a 20% market loss over the past two years. While luxury conglomerates may better withstand uncertainty, smaller players and newcomers need extra support and attention. This is especially true for emerging markets. This is why the latest edition of Visa Fashion Week Almaty was a successful case study of how local governments can engage transnational capital to stimulate the needs of its creative community in these difficult times. Since Kazakhstan hosted the World EXPO and I spoke about it as “an emerging fashion destination for travelers from all over the world”, designers have benefited from Almaty, the former Kazakh capital, strengthening its role as center of traditional and modern expression of Central Asian cultures. What does it take to organize an event of this magnitude these days?

Kazakhstan, a country of 19 million people, has reported nearly one million cases of COVID since the start of the pandemic. With 47% of the population vaccinated, strict restrictions on movement and public gatherings are in effect. Although the event took place in compliance with all preventive measures, its capacity and scope were limited as many international power players fear to travel beyond the industrial bubbles of Paris or London. Bauyrjan Shadibekov, CEO of Visa Fashion Week Almaty, noted that the team always preferred the in-person format over the virtual-only option, as personal connections are important to any creative endeavor. In fact, a smaller audience allowed for more interaction between audience, press and talent.

Among the distinguished guests was the photographer André Barbier whose work has appeared in most major fashion publications, Anastasia Fedoseeva, founder of Street Pie, an avant-garde boutique and agency in Moscow, and Nino Sichinava, Associate Editor-in-Chief of London magazine Schon. As exposure and access to international media, buyers and direct customers are essential to building a nation’s style brand, all of the catwalks were broadcast live on #VFWAlmaty social media platforms.

Among the national highlights was a collection of cruises by Saken Zhaksybaev. Its label ZhSaken focused on monochrome dresses accented with yellow as an exploration of Spanish and Portuguese heritage in European royal histories. “Black, as the deepest color, awakens feminine beauty and is in itself a powerful accord, and when presented in a fabric such as velvet, it gives the image even more mystery”, explains the creator.

Former Kazakh student of the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Tatiana yan immersed in the treasure of fairy tales. “The older we get, the more we notice that history is not going anywhere: good triumphs over evil, after darkness comes to light, actions are stronger than words. Only his characters change over time, but now we need them more than ever, ”remarked Yan. Designate Ainur Turisbek experimented with a new approach to co-branding the collections. “ALMA: powered by Jusan InvestIs a reference both to his mother and to the nourishing story of the generosity of the Medici family “sponsoring” the Renaissance.

Historical crossroads between the mythical East and West, Kazakhstan has continued to master fashion diplomacy by inviting great Ukrainian, Georgian and Uzbek designers. It was a powerful and welcome gesture of goodwill to every country navigating a geopolitical stalemate with Russia. Designate Lilia Litkovskaya and his “bold clothes fit for a city shaman” have become one of Ukraine’s most recognizable style business cards. Inspired by Keith Haring and the poppy fields in bloom, his optimistic vision for the future is decidedly triumphant.

Georgia Datuna Sulikashvili is a sought-after ambassador of the new sense of Georgian style. Working in silk and cashmere, he is building a stellar brand reputation on several international platforms. Uzbekistan was represented by the two best-selling brands in the country.

dressmaker Lali Fazylova envisioned the contemporary youth of old megalopolises like Tashkent and Samarkand. His fine collection emphasized the use of adras, traditional Uzbek hand-dyed textiles, and alo-bakhmal, a royal technique of velvet weaving.

Since 2007, kasimova dildo launched successful ready-to-wear collections to a growing audience of loyal customers and fans. Her fashion philosophy being a holistic lifestyle and not just a profession, she is one of the most followed style influencers in Central Asia, capturing the modern air of the Silk Road.

Looking and moving forward, Bauyrzhan Shadibekov, CEO of Visa Fashion Week Almaty, has the utmost confidence in the platform as he cites a few of his long-term project partners as Kaz visit, Citix, and Dyson, and its benefits to participating designers and national fashion industries in the region. From next year, a partnership with the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana will allow a season-winning designer to present at a special showcase during Milan Fashion Week. An example of the international solidarity of the fashion industry, it signals a desire to make the economic recovery less “uneven” by prioritizing the future of emerging talents.



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Fashion brand

5 Italian clothing brands everyone should know


Looking for some new style inspiration? We’ve unearthed the best Italian clothing brands so you can infuse your wardrobe with an Italian touch.

While we love our British clothing brands and admire the chic of the best French clothing brands, no one does it quite like the Italians. With fashion powerhouses such as Gucci, Prada, Versace and Fendi under its belt, Italy is a master of sought-after luxury style. Rather than focusing on fleeting fashion trends, Italian fashion brands are pros at creating high-quality pieces that stand the test of time, making them a must-have if you’re looking to grow your wardrobe. – capsule dress.

Many major British, French and American brands also rely on Italian crafts and textiles to produce parts of their collections. Premium Italian leather plays a key role in making the best designer bags and winter boots. If you take a look, you’re probably wearing Italian leather right now. But it’s not just designer brands that Italy has on its incredibly stylish belt. There are loads of Italian fashion brands out there that are also worth a look. Perfect if you don’t have the Dolce & Gabbana budget!

The best Italian clothing brands to browse

  • Calzedonia– ideal for winter and summer basics
  • Diesel– the best for cool denim
  • Gucci– best for statement designer style
  • Miss sixty– ideal for looks inspired by the 2000s
  • Prada– the best for stylish designer clothes

The best Italian fashion brands chosen by our fashion editors

Whether you want to learn more about the best Italian fashion brands or want to splurge on a designer investment, these are the best Italian clothing brands that deliver to UK and US.

1. Calzedonia

Model of Italian clothing brands wearing Calzedonia

(Image credit: Calzedonia)

You may already be familiar with Calzedonia as there are several stores in UK and USA. A must-have for all your tights and leggings needs, it achieves that comfortable and stylish aesthetic we’ve all been used to this year. These wardrobe basics are also guaranteed to last: think cashmere tights for that luxurious finish and leather-look leggings for a dose of Italian glamor. Not to mention their desirable swimwear and beachwear collections full of easy-to-wear silhouettes and stimulating prints for a belissima beach-ready look.

Fashion editors choose …




2. Diesel

Model of Italian clothing brands wearing Diesel

(Image credit: Diesel)

An Italian brand with denim at its heart is the favorite brand of the 90s, Diesel. The brand was launched in 1978 but really hit its peak in the ’90s, when it seemed like every cool girl was donning a pair of aged Diesel jeans. Their denim collection is still a worthwhile investment today with the added benefit of adapting to a more sustainable manufacturing with less water and chemicals, which was less common in the 90s. In addition to the best jeans, the brand’s flagship products include quilted bomber jackets, vinyl skirts and logo-embellished knits, all with a 90s cool vibe.

Fashion editors choose …




3. Gucci

Model of Italian clothing brands on the Gucci runway

(Image credit: Getty)

We couldn’t take an overview of Italian clothing brands without mentioning the power that Gucci is. From the finest Gucci bags to their eclectic suits adorned by Harry Styles, Gucci is one of the most coveted designer brands. Although they carry the designer price, they are bullion coins that are built to last. Check out their signature geek-chic designs and plentiful logos, because if you wear Gucci you want everyone to know it.

Fashion editors choose …




4. Miss sixty

Model of Italian clothing brands wearing Miss Sixty

(Image credit: Miss Sixty)

Miss Sixty supplied us with many low rise jeans in the early 2000s and we are delighted to see that the Italian brand is still going strong. It was brought back into the limelight in February 2021 when model Bella Hadid campaigned for the brand and with the recent resurgence of Y2K trends, it’s definitely one to put back on your radar. Denim still plays a key role in the collection, but you can also pick up ’90s-inspired puffer jackets and cute knitwear.

Fashion editors choose …




5. Prada

Models of Italian clothing brands on the Prada catwalk

(Image credit: Getty)

Prada has to be one of the most iconic Italian fashion brands. From its finest designer bags to its elegant ready-to-wear collection, Prada exudes feminine elegance that is sure to elevate the everyday. Founded in 1913, the granddaughter of the original founder, Miuccia Prada, runs the luxury fashion house and propelled it to new heights. Creating trends rather than following them, Prada is renowned for creating future classics that define an era of fashion.

Fashion editors choose …




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French fashion

Leena Nair chosen as new CEO of French fashion brand Chanel


Leena Nair has been chosen CEO of Chanel, a French fashion brand

Chanel on Tuesday named Leena Nair, a former Unilever executive, as the next global CEO, hiring a consumer goods veteran to run one of the world’s most prestigious luxury brands.

Leena Nair’s background-

Leena Nair (born 1969) is the CEO of Chanel and a British Indian businesswoman. Nair previously worked for Unilever as the Company’s Director of Human Resources and a member of the Unilever Board of Directors. Nair was in charge of human resources at Unilever, covering 190 countries and various regulatory and labor contexts. Unilever was named the # 1 Employer of Choice for FMCG Graduates in 54 countries under his leadership. She was in charge of the organization’s Diversity and Inclusion program, ensuring that its staff was diverse and inclusive. Nair is a supporter of compassionate leadership and people-centered workplaces.

Kolhapur, Maharashtra, is his hometown. She attended Holy Cross Convent High School in Kolhapur. She studied electrical engineering at the Walchand College of Engineering in Sangli before obtaining a gold medal from XLRI in 1990-1992. (Maharashtra). After working in Jamshedpur, she moved to three different factories in Kolkata, Ambattur, Tamil Nadu and Taloja, Maharashtra.

Nair, 52, began his career at Unilever in 1992 as a management trainee. She rose steadily through the ranks of Unilever, eventually becoming the company’s “first woman, first Asian and youngest” Human Resources Director (CHRO) in 2016. She also served on the executive committee of Unilever (ULE).

Previously, she worked for the UK Department for Business, Energy and Industrial Strategy as a non-executive director.

“Throughout her career at Unilever, Leena has been a trailblazer, but no more so than in her role as HRD, where she has been a driving force behind our equity, diversity and inclusion agenda, of transformation. our leadership development, and our preparation for the future of work, ”Unilever CEO Alan Jope said in a statement announcing his departure.

Nair, a British national named to Fortune magazine’s list of the world’s most powerful women in 2021, is known for her people-centered approach to business. “If you take care of your people, they will take care of the business,” she told the publication.

After the former CEO of Pepsico, Indra Nooyi – who also happens to be his mentor – Nair is the second female CEO of the Indian-born company.

Nair worked at Unilever for 30 years, most recently as Director of Human Resources and a member of the Executive Committee. She’s a rare outsider at the helm of the tightly controlled family-owned design company known for its tweed suits, quilted handbags, and No.5 fragrance.

The 52-year-old succeeds Maureen Chiquet, an American entrepreneur with a background in design who ran Chanel for nine years until early 2016.

chanel

Alain Wertheimer, a 73-year-old French billionaire who owned Chanel with his brother Gérard Wertheimer and who had been its temporary CEO, will now serve as global executive chairman.

Chanel was founded in 1910 as a rue Cambon hat boutique in Paris by fashion queen Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and has been synonymous with French elegance ever since.

Chanel is an upscale fashion brand based in Paris, France, founded in 1910 by seamstress Coco Chanel. It specializes in women’s ready-to-wear and luxury products and accessories. Alain Wertheimer and Gérard Wertheimer, grandchildren of Pierre Wertheimer, one of Coco Chanel’s first business partners, currently own the company.

Gabrielle Chanel earned the nickname “Coco” as a singer as a teenager. Coco Chanel responded to women’s tastes for the sophistication of clothing as a fashion designer, with blouses, suits, pants, dresses, and simple jewelry (gems ​​and jewelry) that replaced rich clothing and accessories. 19th century over-designed constrictors. Models, performers and actresses such as Margot Robbie, Lily-Rose Depp, Nicole Kidman, Keira Knightley, Kristen Stewart, Pharrell Williams, Cara Delevingne Nana Komatsu, Jennie Kim and Marilyn Monroe have all been models for Chanel.

Chanel is famous for its Chanel No.5 perfume and the Chanel suit. Chanel used the Jersey fabric to create clothes that were both comfortable and inexpensive. Chanel changed both high and low couture (haute couture) and everyday fashion (ready-to-wear), replacing structural forms based on the corset and bodice with practical clothing that flattered the female figure.

The flat-chest garments made famous by Chanel couture in the 1920s were the opposite of the hourglass shape produced by late 19th-century fashion – the French Belle Époque (circa 1890-1914) and the era Edwardian United States Kingdom (circa 1901-1919). Chanel used hues generally associated with masculinity in Europe, such as gray and navy blue, to convey a sense of feminine confidence.

Quilted fabrics and leather trims were used in the clothes of the house of Chanel; the quilted construction reinforces the fabric, design and finish, resulting in a garment that retains its shape and function while being worn. The Chanel wool suit consists of a knee-length skirt and cardigan-style jacket trimmed with fur and black embroidery and gold buttons adorn the garment – is an example of such haute couture techniques. Two-tone pumps, jewelry, usually a pearl necklace and a leather handbag were the perfect complements.

Nair’s appointment comes at a time when the fashion industry is under pressure to be more inclusive. After starting out as an intern in the factory, he worked his way up the ranks at Unilever. Nair, who supervised 150,000 employees at Unilever, will join the company at the end of January and will be based in London, according to the company. The new hires will guarantee the company’s “long-term success as a private enterprise,” the statement said.

chanel4

According to a Harper’s Bazaar article published last month, under his leadership, Unilever has achieved gender parity in global management, as well as a commitment to pay living wages throughout the supply chain.

Nair is a non-executive director of BT and previously served as the non-executive director of the UK government’s business, energy and industrial strategy department.

Chanel fought for self-reliance and only recently disclosed financial information. In July, he predicted sales would grow double digits this year, from $ 12.3 billion before the 2019 pandemic.

According to Luca Solca, luxury goods analyst at Bernstein, Chanel follows a model of attracting senior executives from the consumer packaged products industry.

“For the relatively young luxury goods sector, Unilever and Procter & Gamble are management reservoirs,” he added, citing Antonio Belloni, CEO of LVMH and former chairman of Procter & Gamble in Europe, and Estee Lauder CEO Fabrizio Freda, who is also a P&G veteran.

Emmanuel Lenain, the French Ambassador to India, also took the time to congratulate Nair on his busy schedule.

Rupa Dash, CEO of the World Woman Fund, thanked Nair and called Chanel’s selection “an incredible date”.

Edited and proofread by Ashlyn Joy


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Fashion brand

Carine Roitfeld organizes her first fashion exhibition


HONG KONG – In what must be a sign of the times, famous editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld’s first fashion exhibition has been held in France, will open with an online gala, and will be shown in a luxury shopping mall and a cultural center of Hong Kong. neon lit waterfront.

On Friday, Ms Roitfeld’s celebration at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris will be connected live to the party at the K11 Musea shopping center that its owner, Adrian Cheng, has planned.

Their collaboration, “Savoir-Faire: mastering craftsmanship in fashion”, which is scheduled to open on Monday, is to present around thirty examples of contemporary fashion design, depending on the arrival of the expeditions; 12 Chinese artifacts; and a multimedia exhibition of craft techniques. (Until February 14; tickets start at 60 Hong Kong dollars, or $ 7.70.)

“This exhibition is not a history lesson, but a showcase of craftsmanship in its many forms,” ​​said Ms Roitfeld, founder of CR Fashion Book and former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, in a video interview since. the French capital.

She noted that she wanted to avoid the kind of fashion retrospective that traditional European brands typically create. “I didn’t choose the most extraordinary pieces but pieces which, when you look at them, will make you understand the craftsmanship,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “Curing an exhibition is a first for me. But I organize it the same way I would for a fashion shoot or an editorial. I can’t change myself.

Among her choices was a wedding dress from Chanel’s Fall 2017 couture collection, with rough-edged rosettes anchoring the veil, sleeves and hem of a voluminous high-waisted skirt. Another was a mini dress, with hand-sewn sequined pastel fringes on the bodice, from Dior’s Spring 2019 couture collection. Balenciaga, Givenchy, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford and Valentino will also be represented.

“I want people to feel like they’re part of the show, part of the dream,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “When you look at the track, you don’t feel the details. But in this exhibit, you’ll feel the embroidery, the way the fabric drapes over the back of a dress. I want to show the audience what is going on behind the scenes, as if they were at a photoshoot.

Her selection also included independent designers in their 30s and 40s such as Iris Van Herpen from the Netherlands, Tom Van Der Borght from Belgium and Richard Quinn from Great Britain, whose fall 2020 ready-to-wear show was designed by Mrs. Roitfeld.

“Know-how is not only for sewing, it is also for ready-to-wear. It’s a new idea that I wanted to express in this exhibition, ”she said. “It is imperative that he sends the message that know-how is alive and well. It is still celebrated, even by young fashion houses. It is not dead.

Ms Roitfeld praised Ms Van Herpen, whom she called “one of the best in the world for the use of silicone and laser cutting techniques,” displayed in sheer Swarovski crystal dresses and futuristic 3D silhouettes.

“She always surprises me,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “She started her couture brand at the age of 23. It takes courage and determination.”

“Savoir-Faire” is a continuation of Ms. Roitfeld’s collaboration with Mr. Cheng, who is Managing Director of Hong Kong real estate company New World Development and founder of the K11 brand. Earlier this year, they co-produced a three-part video series called “K11 Original Masters”, which explored artisan techniques such as feather stitching and quilting leather bags.

“We realized that craftsmanship was the common link between European fashion and Chinese artisans,” she said. “The works are beautiful, special, powerful – and some contain important messages. “

Mr. Cheng’s contribution to the exhibit will be the loan of a dozen Chinese artifacts from the K11 Craft & Guild Foundation, a non-profit organization he founded to preserve the skills used to create objects like Cantonese ceramics. In the exhibition, multimedia devices will juxtapose the Asian techniques used to create the pieces with those used in European couture.

For Mr. Cheng, it was important that the exhibition be what he calls a “fusion of Europe and Asia” that pays homage to the history of craftsmanship.

“We can create these connections and relationships through objects that may look different, but involve the same shared passion,” he said. “For example, the way French couturiers used feathers was inspired by the Qing dynasty. “

He said he also hoped to introduce the idea of ​​the craft to a younger audience, who often come to the Seven-Level Mall on weekends.

“Today everything is fast and about instant gratification,” Mr. Cheng said. “But the craft is meditative and methodical. It symbolizes perseverance, patience and perseverance.

“Everything is human made, and that’s the beauty of it.”


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Fashion designer

Pallavi Puri Atelier launches a new fashion collection – News


Pallavi Puri Atelier is the creative space that welcomes passion in fashion



Pallavi Puri, the only Indian fashion designer living in the United Arab Emirates, opens the doors of her first Atelier in the region. After very successful rounds in the UAE fashion circuit, the birth of Atelier was a natural progression to serve its demanding clientele on a more personal level.

Pallavi Puri Atelier is the creative space that welcomes passion in fashion. Not just retail therapy – it’s a personalized experience for every fashionista from the moment she walks through the doors until the moment she leaves the building.

She is now preparing to launch the Gold Collection, which is due to coincide with the 50th National Day of the United Arab Emirates in Abu Dhabi on November 24 at the St. Regis Hotel. This collection is a special edition that not only celebrates the elegance, beauty and modernity of Emirati women, it also commemorates the coming together of people and revisiting Dubai’s invigorating cultural rhythm.

The Gold collection will offer a fresh take on signature styles this season, vintage-inspired returns with a contemporary twist and a strong emphasis on exquisite traditional craftsmanship. The line will experiment with a bold color palette, reminiscent of the royal heritage of the United Arab Emirates, and blend into compelling modern overtones to keep it relevant.

The ensembles will be accented with beautifully crafted sequins, delicate crystals and mirrored handwork against a backdrop of gold, fawn, pearl and desert-inspired hues.

Maison Atelier offers ready-to-wear clothing as well as other inspiring tools such as fabric swatches, embroidered trims, handy embellished trims to further inspire our design process. A unique space that meets all your fashion requests for every occasion.


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Fashion brand

Fashion brand PH reshapes its business to protect frontliners


Despite the challenges that have plagued her business and the rest of the fashion retail industry, Filipino brand BAYO remains committed to its goal of using its platform to help others and have a positive impact on the market. company.
Filipino fashion brand BAYO is embarking on the production of PPE.

“One of the most important lessons our company has learned from this crisis is that adversity should not prevent us from helping,” said Anna Lagon, CEO of BAYO. “Focusing on helping others not only motivated our entire team to continue to be productive, but also opened up strategic partnerships that have kept our operations going, empowering more people. and even inspire product innovations. Since the start of the pandemic, BAYO has strengthened its ties with the Philippine Textile Research Institute of the Department of Science and Technology, the office of the vice president and the local government units of Pasig, Baguio and Kapangan Benguet. Being one of the few Philippine fashion retail brands with a manufacturing facility in the country, it has shifted from manufacturing ready-to-wear clothing to producing personal protective equipment for hospitals in front-line and medically-examined masks for consumers, government offices and businesses, which has allowed BAYO to keep its production workers and employ additional skilled sewers.

Save the frontliners

Even before the pandemic, BAYO had worked with PTRI to elevate and expand the use of local textiles to support the garment industry’s broader value chain, make sourcing more accessible to other local brands, and provide the ways to make a living for more Filipinos, from the farmers who propagate and raise the plants that become raw materials, to the weavers and sewers who make the clothes, to the retailers in both online and offline channels. In February 2020, due to growing concerns over COVID-19, BAYO contacted PTRI for the manufacture of sheet masks capable of resisting liquid droplets and effectively covering the nostrils and mouth. The company started making masks the previous month in response to the Taal volcano eruption, produced 10,000 sets, and distributed them to ashfall affected areas through the OVP. “The reason we wanted to explore fabric mask manufacturing was primarily due to our sustainability advocacy, which we have been actively promoting for several years. We were concerned about the use of disposable masks because of their negative impact on the environment, ”said Lagon. As BAYO began to refine his masks to be more effective against the virus, he again received a call from the OVP asking if he could make PPE. “We were hesitant at first due to our lack of knowledge in the manufacture of medical PPE and the logistics of mobilizing people during the early stages of the lockdown. However, seeing reports of deaths of frontline hospital staff due to the country’s insufficient supply of PPE has prompted us to rise to the challenge, ”said Lagon. “Opening our facility for the OVP was easy, but convincing our employees to report to work during the outbreak was a difficult decision to make. But to our surprise, everyone answered our call. The common reason? This is our way of helping frontliners tackle covid 19. Everyone was enthusiastic about working, showing up early and doing their jobs efficiently, even with minimal supervision and mobility constraints. due to security protocols. In order to ensure the health and safety of its employees, BAYO provided shuttle services between their home and its production site and set up an in-house catering service to provide lunch and snacks. The OVP organized transport assistance for employees who lived far away and for their PPE to be assessed and approved by medical experts. BAYO’s initial foray into making masks for the PTRI and PPE for the OVP opened the door to orders from private companies, LGUs and other government agencies. This allowed the company to involve other communities to help with the orders, thus providing these people with a livelihood during the lockdown. “When Pasig’s LGU requirements arrived, we tapped the sewers from five of its barangays to help us with production,” Lagon said. Exposure to the backbone of PPE manufacturing allowed BAYO to launch new merchandise that would excite consumers in containment. “We started to produce fashionable masks and workwear inspired by PPE. We have introduced masks with adjustable buckles that can be tied behind the ears or the head, and have come up with a bespoke coat made from water-resistant fabrics that users can wear over their clothing as extra protection. These have become bestsellers and we continue to add new models every month, ”said Lagon. “We have also strengthened and modernized our e-commerce site, www.styleshops.com.ph, so consumers can shop from the comfort of their own homes. Income for the past two years may still fall short of pre-pandemic figures as Filipinos struggled with reduced incomes, travel and gatherings were banned. In addition, BAYO has had to intermittently close its stores in areas where strengthened community quarantines have been put in place. Sales fell during the months of March through May, which was the high season for fashion retailing when Filipinos were shopping for proms, graduations, summer vacation and partying. mothers. Nevertheless, BAYO’s pivots and innovations help to secure its future. “We had given up on our usual profits when we agreed to manufacture face masks and PPE for the OVP, Pasig City and PTRI. We cannot in conscience attribute huge profits to the misery of others. What is essential for us is to be able to support the country’s efforts to fight the pandemic. It is enough that we can simply continue to pay the wages of our workers to help them during the closures. ”

Goal

Even before the pandemic, BAYO had incorporated its objective into its business model. “The 5Ps guide our business – People, Planet, Prosperity, Peace and Partnership. Planet is focused on protecting our natural resources and the climate for future generations. People aim to end poverty and hunger in all their forms and to ensure dignity and equality. Taking care of our people has always been our priority. Prosperity is about ensuring shared economic growth for all of our stakeholders. Peace means fostering peaceful, just and inclusive societies, while partnership covers building local and global partnerships to implement and accelerate our goals. Seeing how the global fashion industry has become the second biggest polluter in the world, after the oil sector, and contributes up to 10% of carbon emissions, the company chose to mark its 25th anniversary in 2017 by launching “Journey to Zero”, a circular economy initiative that reduces its environmental footprint. “We have already innovated in the way we use fabrics to reduce waste by 35% to 5%. When our recycling plant opens in 2022, we will be able to process the remaining 5% to achieve zero waste manufacturing. It also enlisted Green Story, a third-party auditor based in Toronto, Canada, to monitor Bayo’s greenhouse gas emissions. BAYO became a participating member of the United Nations Global Compact, the world’s largest initiative calling on companies to align their strategies and operations with universal principles of human rights, the environment, labor and the fight against corruption. The company strengthened its adherence to the 17 United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), including the eradication of poverty and hunger, the promotion of gender equality, the provision of decent work and the practice of responsible consumption. “The pandemic has been very difficult for our business, but it is important that we do what we can to foster more sustainable cities and communities where Filipinos can lead more dignified lives. BAYO has supported various weaving communities in Bulacan, Benguet, Aklan and Cebu. He partnered with PureOceans, a marine conservation social enterprise that collects and diverts plastic waste, and helped PTRI, Cordillera DOST Administrative Region and LGU of Kapangan, Benguet revive the sericulture industry. community and provide additional income to women farmers. A collection from this collaboration will debut in November 2021 during National Science and Technology Week. Her efforts have been recognized by the UN 2021 Women’s Empowerment Principles, which recently awarded BAYO the title of Champion for Gender-Responsive Marketplace and was the second finalist for the category: Community Engagement and Partnerships. Lagon hopes to motivate other Filipino businesses to pursue their goal and find their own way to help others while encouraging government and ordinary consumers to recognize the critical role of local businesses in economic recovery, resilience and sustainability. . “Fashion is part of the creative industry at large, which is a significant advantage right now. We need creativity to innovate and constantly think about ways to cope. Our sector can generate jobs with the support of well-meaning individuals, organizations and government who have the most ability to stimulate our economy. Supporting local businesses is not just a motto or a marketing drama. This is what we need to effectively support each other’s lives.

DISCLAIMER: Reader comments posted on this website are in no way endorsed by Manila Standard. Comments are the opinions of the readers of manilastandard.net exercising their right to free speech and do not necessarily represent or reflect the position or point of view of manilastandard.net. While reserving the right in this post to remove comments deemed offensive, indecent, or inconsistent with Manila Standard’s editorial standards, Manila Standard cannot be held responsible for any false information posted by readers in this comments section.


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French fashion

Bottega Veneta propels Matthieu Blazy to the forefront as creative director | Fashion


Matthieu Blazy is the latest behind-the-scenes fashion designer to land a prominent position in a luxury brand. After waiting backstage at Bottega Veneta since joining last year, he has been announced as the new Creative Director. The appointment, effective immediately, follows news last week that English designer Daniel Lee had resigned amid a hugely successful turnaround, with sales boosted and Bottega Veneta setting the fashion agenda like never before. .

Blazy’s name is not well known outside of the fashion industry, but he has a wealth of experience. A graduate of the La Cambre art and design school in Brussels and protégé of Raf Simons for whom he worked on Simons’ own label and at Calvin Klein, Blazy continued to work with Phoebe Philo at Celine where he rode with Lee.

Matthieu Blazy joined Bottega Veneta in 2020 and worked at Raf Simmons, Calvin Klein and Celine. Photography: Willy Vanderperre

He may not be used to the limelight, but Blazy has firsthand experience of the pressures of the top position. Under the veil of anonymity that it offered to its creators, he managed the ready-to-wear and artisanal line of Maison Margiela. Her identity was revealed by Suzy Menkes in 2014, with the reviewer saying “you can’t keep such talent a secret.”

Blazy’s partner, Pieter Mulier, Raf Simons’ longtime right-hand man and recently appointed Alaïa’s creative director, is following the same professional trajectory.

It was once a common practice for fashion bosses to seek out the most star-studded name they could find to fill a vacant Creative Director position (and then give carte blanche to reinvent the house), but companies are looking to more and more internally when it comes time to start a new chapter.

It’s an approach that has worked well for Kering, the French multinational that owns several luxury brands: Alessandro Michele of Gucci, arguably the world’s most influential designer, for example, started out designing handbags before moving on. work your way up.

However, given the similarities between Blazy and her predecessor’s career trajectory (think sleek, demanding minimalism, much like the aesthetic Lee pitched at Bottega), the new appointment is unlikely to signal a change. seismic for the brand. Granted, insiders aren’t predicting a redesign of Michele’s scale and proportions.

Instead, fans of Lee’s best-selling pocket bags and stomping tire boots can expect more of the same. Without a doubt, we have the feeling that Kering privileged a need for continuity and a desire to hold on to new customers acquired during his tenure. An approach that has worked well for Saint Laurent who, under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, is following a path that is no different from that traced by Hedi Slimane during his redesign of the house.

Blazy’s appointment was well received by the industry who congratulated him with a stream of emojis, posted on his Instagram feed. New York Times fashion director Vanessa Friedman took to Twitter to express her approval. “It is time that he [Blazy] has a mark. It’s going to be interesting, ”she wrote.


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Fashion designer

SCAD Fall 2021 Open Studio


SCAD is pleased to present the fall 2021 component of the university’s highly anticipated Open Studio event, back November 5-7 for a virtual storefront and in-person viewing experience.

Organized by SCAD Art Auction, SCAD’s first in-house art curatorial and consultancy platform, the Autumn 2021 Open Studio will present nearly 1,500 exceptional works selected by a jury of over 540 artists, all from a range of programs leading SCAD studies including painting, photography, illustration, sculpture, printmaking, fibers, animation, design for sustainability, architecture, fashion design, graphic design, animated media, etc.

This season, the excitement returns with limited Open Studio showcases in person. Guests can visit SCAD Atlanta (1600 Peachtree Street NW) on Friday November 5 (6:30 p.m. – 8:00 p.m.) and Saturday November 6 (10:00 a.m. – 3:00 p.m.) to browse a carefully curated selection of artists’ works.

All Open Studio curation will be available for purchase online November 5-7, allowing worldwide access to this limited-edition event that has become a must-see destination for art lovers, collectors and interior designers to experience “the next step” in art and design.

Featured Artist of the Fall 2021 Open Studio:

Carla Contreras (MFA, painting, 2020): Atlanta-based Carla Contreras is an Ecuadorian visual artist who works in a variety of mediums including painting, sculpture, photography, drawing and installation. Contreras’ work documents his curious observations of the thriving urban ecosystem and its inhabitants.

work of Carla Contreras

Fall 2021 Open Studio Alumni Atelier Ambassador Artist:

Mae Heidenreich (BFA, fashion, 2009): Mae Heidenreich is an imaginative fashion designer inspired by vintage textiles, technology and deconstructed materials, including antique hardware and vintage military supplies. For the Fall 2021 Open Studio events November 5-6 in Atlanta, Mae will present her latest ready-to-wear capsule collection, FLY, created as an Ambassador of the SCAD Alumni Workshop, a Unique residency program for visionary alumni of SCAD. time, space and resources to immerse yourself in the creative process.

For more information on the Open studio SCAD fall 2021 events and to purchase artwork online, please visit www.scadartsales.com.


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Fashion designer

Monique Lhuillier, Bridal Designer for Britney Spears, on 25 Years of Weddings


Written by Megan C. Hills, CNN

Filipino American fashion designer Monique Lhuillier wants to make your dreams come true. She wants you to imagine yourself dressed in cream silk, lace and verdant flowers, running through the gardens of Lake Como and toward the love of your life – a scene captured in one of her brand’s recent campaigns.
“People come to me for this fantasy,” explained Lhuillier, who is best known for designing wedding dresses for Britney Spears and Reese Witherspoon, via video call. “They want that over the top look.”

Even during the pandemic, when marriages were curtailed and brides around the world were forced to put their plans on hold, the fantasy “never went away,” she added.

A dress from Monique Lhuiller’s latest bridal collection. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / KT Merry

“(The brides) never wanted to compromise on the dress. Even though they were going to have a little ceremony, they still wanted the dream dress … (if there were) five people in the room with them , or 200. “

Lhuillier has been distributing fantasies – and fulfilling her own dreams of running a successful label – since 1996, when she set up her eponymous brand in the basement of her parents’ house in Malibu without even a business plan (” we don’t have I don’t know nothing. for ten years when they devoted “90% of their time” to the business.

A floral dress by Monique Lhuillier.

A floral dress by Monique Lhuillier. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli

At the time, Lhuillier, who was born and raised in the Philippines and then lived in Switzerland, was inspired by a sense of “Californian ease,” she writes in a new book retracing her 25-year career. Her early designs offered romantic, modern silhouettes that were close to the body and embellished with unexpected details, from colorful belts to blush veils.

However, the brand was not, Lhuillier recalled, an instant dazzling success. As she ran between bridal shows and catwalks, calling out whoever would sell her brand’s dresses – while also running a Beverly Hills store and developing new designs – there was no time to work with. Hollywood stylists. And anyway, the pair “didn’t realize the power of celebrity dressing,” she said.

Angelina Jolie wearing Monique Lhuillier at the 2002 Golden Globes, accompanied by Billy-Bob Thornton.

Angelina Jolie wearing Monique Lhuillier at the 2002 Golden Globes, accompanied by Billy-Bob Thornton. Credit: Gregg DeGuire / WireImage / Getty Images

But that all changed in 2002, when Angelina Jolie asked to wear one of her dresses for the Golden Globes. The elegant look was not a cream, beige or white, but rather a strapless black dress paired with a shawl and pearl necklace. Then, the following year, the brand was noticed when Lhuillier made for the first time a wedding dress for a “mega celebrity”: Britney Spears.

Big cut

Spears was splashed in every magazine back then. After kissing Madonna at the VMAs, then marrying Jason Allen Alexander – only to have the union called off 55 hours later – she went on to announce a surprise engagement to backup dancer Kevin Federline.

In search of a dress for the wedding, a friend and stylist of Spears contacted Lhuillier and arranged a series of dates in secret places to prevent the paparazzi from harassing the singer. It made it difficult to give Spears “the whole experience of a bride,” the designer recalled, as she couldn’t just show up to her studio.

Monique Lhuillier's ready-to-wear collection, presented during Spring-Summer Paris <a class=Fashion Week in 2017.”/>

Monique Lhuillier’s ready-to-wear collection, presented during Spring-Summer Paris Fashion Week in 2017. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli

“I didn’t just bring her two dresses, I showed her what I would show to (all) my brides, so that she could feel like she really had the (typical bridal) experience,” said said Lhuillier, explaining how the brand designed the bespoke lace, accessories and veil for Spears, as well as the dress.

Lhuillier was also commissioned to make a “fun and flirty” reception dress and dresses for the whole wedding party, in a strict color scheme. She was given six weeks to design and produce everything, a huge task considering she was also preparing to show off a ready-to-wear collection at New York Fashion Week.

When the press found out about the wedding, the pressure mounted.

“The day before my show, I got a phone call from his team,” she recalls. They said, ‘People are finding out, so we have to get the wedding to take place earlier, so now you will have three weeks. ”

“(I told them) ‘OK, we’ll do it. Don’t worry.’ But inside, I was dying. “

Designer Monique Lhuillier attends a 2018 gala.

Designer Monique Lhuillier attends a 2018 gala. Credit: Emma McIntyre / Getty Images

In a way, she succeeded. Photos of the nuptials have been splashed in magazines and on the internet, with Spears’ white silk gown, embroidered train, and floor-sweeping veil in the spotlight. Soon more and more of his ready-to-wear items were appearing on celebrity red carpets, and Lhuillier “could sense the momentum” when people finally began to fully understand his French surname – loo-lee. -ei.

“It helped people figure out how to pronounce our name; it helped hearing it a few times on the (red) carpet. It really cemented our name and the idea of ​​Monique Lhuillier and glamor.”

A quarter of a century later

Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, the brand remains proudly independent, with Lhuillier as Creative Director and Bugbee as CEO. Their dresses – and now the furniture and jewelry, among other things – are American made, so the designer can stay “on the go”. (“It’s not the cheapest way to do it, but that’s how I like to work,” she said.)

Taylor Swift wearing Monique Lhuillier in 2014.

Taylor Swift wearing Monique Lhuillier in 2014. Credit: Dimitrios Kambouris / Getty Images

Lhuillier is now more aware of the power of celebrity and has an employee in charge of VIP requests. Celebrities like Taylor Swift, Kaley Cuoco, Heidi Klum and Elizabeth Banks have all turned to her for major events, while Carrie Underwood and Lea Michele have asked her for their dream wedding dresses. Reese Witherspoon, a close friend of Lhuillier’s, wore the designer’s white dress and blush satin belt for her second wedding, to Jim Toth, in 2011.
In the preface by Lhuillier new book, Witherspoon wrote, “(Monique) understands why women want to wear something that makes them beautiful and how her designs will become part of the fabric of their lives.”
Indeed, Lhuillier’s knack for figuring out what women want to wear during life-changing moments remains astute, with her self-proclaimed “whimsical” new collection focusing on floral prints, colors and shorter hems. But the pandemic has damaged her business, as brides around the world have turned to Zoom fittings and scaled back their plans. With more time for her during the lockdown, the designer has taken care of a new line of fine jewelry. Created in collaboration with the retailer Kay Jewelers, it is a project close to the heart of Lhuillier, his grandfather being a jeweler.
The cover of Monique Lhuillier's new book, a retrospective of her career published by Rizzoli.

The cover of Monique Lhuillier’s new book, a retrospective of her career published by Rizzoli. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli

“Jewelry, for me, was a natural (progression). It’s part of history. Without a ring, there is no dress,” she said, adding that each piece is engraved with a short message from him.

Figuring out what comes next is a tall order, especially since she has already been shown at Paris Fashion Week, received a Presidential Medal of Merit from former Philippine President Gloria Arroyo and she received the seal of approval from American first ladies Michelle Obama and Melania Trump. Lhuillier said that as an immigrant who had lived in the United States for almost 35 years, it was “an honor” to dress the women of the White House.

First Lady Michelle Obama wore Monique Lhuillier in 2014, alongside her husband President Barack Obama.

First Lady Michelle Obama wore Monique Lhuillier in 2014, alongside her husband President Barack Obama. Credit: Brendan Smialowski / AFP / Getty Images

The designer, who lived in the Philippines until the age of 14, said she still carries the country’s “kindness” and “traditions” to this day. Describing herself as a “citizen of the world” she said: “It was a gift to be raised in Asia… picking up all these cultures and bringing back family has always been the most important thing.”

Designer Monique Lhuillier (second from left) with models wearing her Spring 2019 bridal collection.

Designer Monique Lhuillier (second from left) with models wearing her Spring 2019 bridal collection. Credit: Monique Lhuillier / Rizzoli

Yet rather than creating designs inspired by the Philippines, she believes that “good design transcends so many different cultures.”

“I decided to create this brand so that women feel empowered and they feel beautiful.”


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Fashion brand

Meet Diotima, an emerging fashion brand steeped in Jamaican tradition


When Rachel Scott left her hometown of Kingston, Jamaica, to pursue her college education and internship at Vogue, she made a promise to a family friend that helped her land the role with the prestigious publication. “He was like, ‘You can’t just go away, you can’t take it all. You have to come back and contribute at some point, ”recalls the designer. “It has always marked me.” After 15 years in the industry, Scott says his new fashion line, Diotima, is the long-awaited result of his desire to give back to his origins.

Launched in May 2020, Diotima is a women’s ready-to-wear brand that mixes inspiration from all facets of Scott’s life and career. This includes his time studying French and art at Colgate University in upstate New York, followed by a stint at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan. “I took a roundabout path towards this career,” she says. After graduating, Scott worked between the United States and Europe for brands such as Costume National and J. Mendel where she not only gained experience but also deepened the importance of construction. and quality. She attributes this era to the “involved and respectful approach to working with materials and building parts” that you can still see today in her current role as Vice President of Design at Rachel Comey, where she worked. for about seven years. “I adopted this approach to [focus on] craftsmanship, construction, and materials, and mixed that up with something a little more affordable, but also portable.

Diotima designer Rachel Scott.Photographed by Josh Kolbo

Scott had initial ideas for Diotima long before 2020, but she wasn’t sure if she would pursue them. “I had this idea in my head that if someone is talking about the Jamaican or Caribbean style, experience or perspective, then that’s it. This niche has been busy, ”she says of her past state of mind. “It held me back for a long time.” When the world has come to a standstill over the past year and a half, Scott has had a moment to step back from his day-to-day life, realize the value of his unique perspective, and his brand has taken shape as d other unexpected doors opened.

“When all the borders closed in Jamaica, there were artisans that I had worked with before for one-off things here and there that primarily cater to the tourism industry. I realized then that they had no source of income for their crafts, ”she says of Diotima’s early days. “I was like, ‘this is an interesting opportunity, maybe I can work with them and do something together. And that’s where I started with crochet in particular, with Jamaicans.

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Courtesy of Diotima

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Courtesy of Diotima

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Courtesy of Diotima

The crochet details she references are some of the most unique aspects of the brand’s offerings, inspired by pieces originally created by Jamaican artisans for another purpose. “They would make these placemats and table runners, then starch them to keep them longer. I always found it interesting because I had never done it in ready-to-wear. I was working from things that they had done and I was trying to do them [into] Something new. When I came back to them with pictures of the clothes, they were like, “Oh my god, I can’t believe you did that. “

The challenge of launching Diotima – a brand that Scott spends nights, weekends, and whatever other time available, as she is also engaged in her full-time role at Rachel Comey – was amplified by the pervasive effects of the last year. Limited access to materials and the inability to travel played into its design decisions. One of the successes of the collection was a twist on tourist t-shirts, with Scott’s handcrafted touch. “I was playing with the idea that I can elevate the classic macrame T-shirt you would buy when you are on a Caribbean sightseeing vacation at one of these exclusive cheese hotels. I would print on it, then add crystals or glass beads, whatever I could to get it out of that context in any way I could.

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Courtesy of Diotima

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Courtesy of Diotima

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Courtesy of Diotima

Diotima’s second collection, Resort ’22, is available for sale in November on its site and through Oakland-based retailer McMullen. It showcases a lot more of what’s to come from the label. “I’m obsessed with the texture, the materials, the juxtaposition of shine and matte and warm and smooth,” she says. This translates into the collection’s use of a unique layered weave, printed tweeds and lots of playful netting and transparencies. Crochet details also take a peek at necklines, cuffs, and wrap around the midsection of dresses and tops. Going forward, Diotima’s recurring themes will include a clean cut and elements of uniform outfit – a nod to her childhood and teenage years in school – inspiration for 80s dancehall style and 90s, and Scott’s admiration for strong Jamaican women throughout his history.

“There’s one thing I’m trying to focus on,” she says. “I really want to avoid being nostalgic in what I do and I think it’s really important to work in a trans-historical way. I want to try to move forward. Inspired by the Antwerp Six (avant-garde designers Walter Van Beirendonck, Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten, Dirk Van Saene, Dirk Bikkembergs and Marina Yee) who shaped Belgian fashion while working in the traditions of Paris and Milan, Scott aims to have a similar effect with this new chapter in his career. “I would like to find a way, along with others, to contribute to this new idea of ​​Caribbean fashion that is not exactly what it always has been, but by taking some of those basics and working in the capacities of manufacturing there, advancing that idea of ​​building and crafting, and also the idea of ​​identity.

We only include products that have been independently selected by TZR’s editorial team. However, we may receive a portion of the sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.



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Fashion designer

Daniela Villa, ‘Mexiterránea’, by Raquel Oliva


Fashion weeks travel miles and miles to show the best of the industry on the most famous catwalks in different parts of the world.

New York, Paris, London, Milan, Madrid and now Mexico are among the best known in the world and in the latter, especially at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Mexico, the most important fashion showcase in the country of America central was, where we experienced an exceptional closure on the occasion of its 15th anniversary which took place in a high place, in one of the balconies of the Four Season hotel in the city.

Photo: Constanza Martínez

Daniela Villa, designer from Tijuana (Mexico), main protagonist of the closing day, presents one of the artist’s most personal collections to date. A collection in which Daniela merges two of the countries that have contributed the most to her personally and professionally to show Mediterranean-inspired clothing and Mexican elements.

This is how ‘Mexiterránea’ was born, where we find the perfect collection for an upcoming trip to the beach in which the mixture bears not only its name, but also the elements of the two countries that are undoubtedly the main protagonists.

Daniela Villa, 'Mexiterránea', by Raquel Oliva
Photo: Constanza Martínez

The artist, engaged in slow fashion, presents this new collection composed mainly of swimsuits, handcrafted belts and, of course, beach hats, one of the brand’s signatures. Large hats that envelop their bearer in mystery and give them a touch of sensuality which, at MBFW Mexico, has also gained their importance, becoming, on certain occasions, the star accessory of the parade.

Certain clothes that highlight the flight, the colors and the silhouettes contributed to each element and, of course, the details, another of Daniela’s hallmarks. In this case, we appreciate various elements that allow the garment to fit the silhouette, such as camisoles or beachwear; In addition to the wide sleeves, which by their manufacture take us to the sea and the foam it leaves on the sand, with the always elegant touch of the designer.

Daniela Villa, 'Mexiterránea', by Raquel Oliva
Photo: Constanza Martínez

Exclusive and selected designs that do not continue chain manufacturing, calling on Mexican artisans to achieve the perfect end product, also offering greater cultural richness to each of their garments.

There are macrame details from the province of Mérida or textiles made in Oaxaca, and materials such as linen, blankets, silk and cotton, among others. Elements that give life to “Mexiterránea”, a timeless collection that shows the designer’s love for the bohemian. A love of the bohemian-chic style that their clothes represent in each collection.

The designer fell in love with Spain

The fascination of this well-known Mexican for the art world led her to study design at first, to later become what she wanted so much, a fashion designer.

Mexican
Photo: Mexiterranea

With the firm conviction that his designs add a plus to current fashion, he burst into the industry by appearing in prestigious fashion shows, including the one that has just closed and where he has received applause from the national and international press. , which gave him the momentum he needed to continue his hectic career.

A career that has taken him this year to Spain, more precisely to Marbella, Malaga, where, thanks to his perseverance and good work, he has opened two successful Pop Ups Stores.

Daniela Villa, 'Mexiterránea', by Raquel Oliva
Photo: Constanza Martínez

Marbella, a Mediterranean city that fell in love with her and that was one of her great inspirations, along with her native Mexico, in the creation of this latest collection in which, as usual, she imprints her woman’s DNA. free with a bohemian spirit, where elegance and avant-garde are its particular signature.

A new collection that adds to the designer’s great achievements, among which we must also highlight the spring-summer 2019 proposal, which was all the more surprising, since Daniela always surprises, paying tribute to the surrealist painter Pedro Friedeberg. So, with his ‘Visiones Fugitivas’, he captivated even more fashion editors, press and socialites in his country in an unprecedented spectacle that even included the National Orchestra of Mexico.

Mexican
Photo: Mexiterranea

Now he has once again surprised with ‘Mexiterránea’ where he once again has elements that defy the rules thanks to his designs which can be defined as ready a seam or what amounts to the same thing, a mix between ‘haute couture’ – tailor-made handmade clothes – and ready-to-wear clothes.

Disclaimer: This article is generated from the feed and is not edited by our team.


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Fashion designer

Olivier Rousteing reveals he survived the frightening explosion of a chimney


Beloved designer Olivier Rousteing, the creative director of fashion label Balmain, shared on Instagram on Saturday that a year ago he was injured after his fireplace exploded. (Disclaimer: This story includes an image that some may find graphic.)

“A YA YEAR”, the 36-year-old fashion designer started his legend Saturday October 8. “I finally feel ready to share this. I’ve been hiding it for too long and it’s about time you knew it. Exactly a year ago, the fireplace inside my house exploded. I woke up the next day. . morning at Saint Louis Hospital in Paris. The talented staff at this famous hospital, which were handling an incredible number of COVID cases at the same time, took care of me very well. “

“I cannot thank them enough,” he continued. “I did everything to hide this story from as many people as possible and try to keep it a secret with my teams and my friends for too long. To be honest, I’m not sure why I was so ashamed, maybe this obsession of the perfection that fashion is known for and my own insecurities… “

In the image he shared on Saturday, Rousteing can be seen in a full cast with severe burns covering his face.

“While I was recovering, I just worked day and night to forget and create all my collections, trying to make the world dream with my collections and at the same time hiding the scars with face masks, turtlenecks, long sleeves and even several rings on all my fingers through numerous interviews or photo shoots, ”he shared.

“And I really realized that the power of social media is to only reveal what you want to show! It kind of allows us to create our own special narrative that avoids what we don’t want to see or show: it’s is our new world. “

Friends and fans of the creator took to the comments section to applaud him for his bravery, being so open and honest about the terrible incident.

“I have a soft heart,” wrote Karen Elson. “Such courage and bravery in sharing your story. One thing I know to be true is that true beauty, the one that lights up a room, is always flawed and flawed in all good manners. soul that shines brighter than anything else. “

Christina Milian wrote: “Glad you made it safe. God bless you and 🙏🏽 for the courage to share this.”

“I’m so glad you’re safe,” commented fellow fashion designer Donatella Versace.

Cardi B added: “God bless you.”

In September, Rousteing made his first public appearance in nearly a year on stage at the Balmain Festival V02 women’s ready-to-wear spring / summer fashion show as part of Paris Fashion Week.

Designer Olivier Rousteing on September 29, 2021.Dominique Charriau / Getty Images

“Now a year later – cured, happy and healthy,” he continued in his caption on Saturday. “I realize how truly blessed I am and I thank GOD everyday of my life. My last show was about the celebration of healing from pain and I thank all the models the productions my team the models my family Balmain, my friends who came and supported not only my 10 years as Balmain but my rebirth. “

Rousteing ended his legend by thanking the first responders who helped him with his painful recovery and reminding his fans and followers to never give up.

“Today I feel so free, so good and so lucky,” he said. “I am entering a new chapter with a smile on my face and a heart full of gratitude. To the doctors and nurses of Saint Louis, and to all those who helped me during this long convalescence and kept my secret: a deep thank you. you I love you.

“GOD BLESS YOU ALL,” he wrote, adding, “and yet never give up! There is always the sun after the storm.”



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Fashion brand

A “reset”? Not at Paris Fashion Week


On the final evening of Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand in terms of sales, invested a passage in the courtyard of the Louvre, where dozens of crystal chandeliers hung above of a double row of large glass mirrors at the Palace of Versailles.

The models stepped out to the sound of a turret clock, dressed in wide, bouncy satchel skirts and woolen silk-cuffed blazers, lace dresses layered over blue jeans, and sporty lace-up boots in fluorescent satin. These were complex and intriguing in their unusual proportions and flowing mesh of at least three centuries of dress styles. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière called it “the big ball of time “.

Then came another woman carrying a fabric banner that said “Overconsumption = Extinction”. She seemed to be a part of the show at first – until she stopped at the end of the track and was brutally abducted by security guards. This cast a chill over the rest of the event; the models did not make a second appearance for the finale, and when Ghesquière came to bow out, he was accompanied by a bodyguard.

Although a shame for the hundreds of people who had worked on the collection, for a climatic event, the timing and location was appropriate. There was something deeply unsettling about the return of these lavish displays of brand power during Fashion Weeks; of the sudden reappearance of designers, buyers and journalists (myself included) who, just over a year ago, called for a ‘reset’ of the fashion system – fewer catwalks, fewer creative exhaustion and a lower carbon footprint.

At Louis Vuitton, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière mixes past and present references. . . © Giovanni Giannoni

. . . like dresses adorned with velvet and lace combined with open-toe satin boots © Giovanni Giannoni

Bruno Sialelli from Lanvin presented playful dresses covered with a daisy print. . .

. . . alongside simpler and more sensual babydolls

Of course, commercially this makes sense. On the contrary, the last year and a half has proven just how well oiled the luxury machine is, especially among the industry mega brands. Despite the resurgence of Covid-19 in China, shares of LVMH, Kering and Hermès are trading at near historic levels. Shows are making a comeback as they boost sales and media attention.

Chanel Fashion President Bruno Pavlovsky saw it coming. In an interview during France’s first lockdown last year, he said he saw no reason for an overhaul of the fashion calendar; that six fashion shows a year worked well for Chanel before the pandemic and would continue to perform for the company after it.

Bar chart of 'soft luxury' * market share, Europe and UK only (%) showing major labels tightening their grip

“We have the strongest loyal local customer base we’ve ever had at Chanel,” he says now, speaking ahead of the brand’s Spring / Summer 2022 show. Although operating profits fell 41% between 2019 and 2020, Pavlovsky says travel restrictions have given the brand’s boutiques the opportunity to really listen to what local shoppers want – which, above all, is to “feel privileged”. Sales, which were already doing “very well” in China, the United States and in pockets like Dubai, are also picking up in Europe, where American tourists have started flocking to Chanel stores again this summer, he adds. .

This season, Creative Director Virginie Viard revisited Chanel’s heyday of the 1980s and 1990s, erecting a catwalk above the audience and surrounding them with old-fashioned photographers. The models were grinning and spinning like ’90s supers in simple black swimwear trimmed with sparkling white tweed skirts accented with chain sashes and flowing black chiffon dresses printed with butterfly wings.

It was elegant but not very exciting, devoid of the irony and wit that once animated the house’s iconic gold chains and tweed jackets under the late Karl Lagerfeld. Without them, these pieces are simply nostalgic.

At Chanel, Virginie Viard returned to the brand’s 80s collections with swimsuits and sports bras. . .

. . . alongside short pink dresses, multicolored jackets and denim suits

Hermès enlisted artist Flora Moscovici to create the atmospheric, orange-tinted backdrop for the show. . .

. . . for a collection of refined leather pieces in black, white, yellow and earth tones

It does not matter. Outside the pandemic period, Chanel’s ready-to-wear sales continued to climb under Viard. Chinese customers of the brand particularly appreciate its feminine approach, Pavlovsky says.

Same story at Hermès, where Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski showed the know-how of the house in a private jet terminal through smooth black leather suits and chiffon dresses delicately embellished with tiny glass beads, and small bags cylindrical with luxuriously thick silver handles. There is little need for Vanhee-Cybulski to push the limits on the podium; sales at Hermès have already exceeded pre-pandemic levels.

Givenchy designer Matthew Williams feels the need to push the boundaries – or at least define what the LVMH-owned house represents following the departure of Clare Waight Keller last year. For her first physical show, held in an arena northwest of Paris, a giant and expensive oculus was suspended from the ceiling, bathing in glowing white light the models dressed in the associated black neoprene riding vests. to stretch waders. , and the men in utility vests layered over narrow-cut pants.

There were a few decent looks here – cropped pantsuits and pictorial partings created in collaboration with Josh Smith in particular – but for the most part, this collection seemed to tread territory already occupied by other designers. Maybe that will develop when Williams starts experimenting with high fashion for her debut in January.

Givenchy’s creative director Matthew Williams mixed corsets and basques in tulle. . .

. . . with traditional couture fabrics and thigh-low clogs

At Miu Mui, Miuccia Prada revolutionized the preppy style by lowering the waist and showing off logo underwear. . . © Monique Feudi

. . . and cropping sweaters and shirts to reveal the models’ naked bellies © Monica Feudi

Miu Miu’s identity has at times been obscured by her sister brand Prada, but that is starting to change now that Raf Simons is co-designing Prada. “Before, I could have half of me in one place, half of me in the other,” Miuccia Prada told the FT earlier this year. “Now all of me is up to Miu Miu. This should be good for Miu Miu.

It was a very good collection, full of the beloved Miuccia signatures that recently disappeared from Prada: pleated schoolgirl skirts with chunky V-neck jumpers and neat straight jackets, sheer floral-appliquéd cocktail dresses. with gray ribbed socks and moccasins. These have been featured with bare bellies and the shortest skirts this season, but their deliberately awkward proportions have elevated them above conventional sensuality.

It was also reassuring to see such a wearable collection by Stella McCartney, whose curvy bodysuits, mushroom-print dresses, and lively, easy-going pantsuits were accompanied by little black bags made from mycelium, an alternative to cultured leather. laboratory. Although more expensive than her typical range, “it’s definitely cheaper than exotic skins,” she said. “And it doesn’t kill any animals, it’s not cutting down trees, it’s amazing technology that is truly the future of fashion.”

Stella McCartney has paired bodycon tops, cutouts and dresses with relaxed pants, knits and blazers. . .

. . . and launched the Frayme Mylo, a mushroom leather handbag

Models and guests paraded a Hollywood-style red carpet at Balenciaga. . .

. . . before entering a theater to enjoy the premiere of ‘The Simpsons I Balenciaga’

Not all shows marked a return to business as usual. A red carpet and a crowd of photographers greeted guests in front of the Théâtre du Châtelet, where Balenciaga gave his show. All the standard stuff, until the guests were seated inside, where the “show” turned out to be the red carpet itself, broadcast live on stage. Here, in relentless high definition, a mix of real celebrities – Cardi B, Elliot Page, Isabelle Huppert – took on camera-friendly poses alongside unwitting reporters, laughing and clapping inside the theater. Soon the looks of the collection began to appear, adjusted to the actors, the Balenciaga staff and various “friends” of the house.

It was a careful dismantling of the boundaries between performers and audiences that has also been expertly choreographed this season by Francesco Risso de Marni and Pierpaolo Piccioli from Valentino. The latter took his show to the streets, where students and audiences alike drank in the beautiful mix of jeweled and citrus-hued partings and silk shirts turned into dresses. Customers were free to stay and dine in restaurants afterward, thanks to Valentino. “Inclusiveness and humanity is what I want to offer today,” he said.

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli reinterpreted classic couture in extravagant volumes and acrylic colors. . .

. . . and paired feathered looks with practical combat boots

Paris Fashion Week ended with a tribute to AZ Factory’s Alber Elbaz, who died in April. The show featured pieces from various fashion houses, including Valentino. . © imaxtree

. . . as well as drawings by Elbaz himself © imaxtree

The sense of community was also palpable at the AZ Factory memorial show for the late Alber Elbaz, where 47 designers created looks for an audience including his partner, Alex Koo, and France’s first lady, Brigitte Macron.

Return to Balenciaga. Just as the show seemed to end, the lights dimmed and on screen appeared Homer Simpson, desperate to secure something – anything – from the tag as a birthday present for his suffering wife. for a long time, Marge. The ironic film culminated with a Balenciaga show in Paris, modeled by the people of Springfield. The company described it as “the latest in a progression of activations that push some established boundaries between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture and technology, moving the brand away from an easily defined category.”

I’m not sure the experience pulled Balenciaga out of “easily definable” categories, but it was fun, clever, and surprising. Everything you hope a physical spectacle should be. Because right now they’re not going anywhere.

To follow @financialtimefashion on Instagram to first discover our latest stories



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Fashion style

These 5 African designers presented themselves and manifested themselves during Paris Fashion Week • EBONY


African designers Lukhanyo Mdingi, Jennifer Mulli from Jiamini, Margaux Wong, Mohamed Awale from Suave Kenya and Hamaji Sailing from Hamaji, presented their SS22 collections during Paris Fashion Week. Their contemporary art merged with artisanal and ancient techniques has redefined the term for “Made in Africa”. Ranging from jewelry, ready-to-wear and accessories, the creators of EFI are all beneficiaries of the prestigious EU-backed program. Each creative has spent up to 2 years mentored by the best leaders in the industry, including EFI Director and Founder Simone Cipriani, United Arrows Co-Founder Hirofumi Kurino and actress and humanitarian Dakore Egbuson-Akande, in preparation for this moment. Since the mentorship ended, brands have been the path to help make fashion sustainable.

Hamaji

Designer name: Hamaji veil

Based: Kilifi, Kenya

Category: Ready to wear

Collection inspiration: Inspired by the recent move of designer Louise Sommerlatte, the Hamaji Sailing Home collection embodies the contrasting spirits of land and sea, as well as the contours and colors of the ocean on the east coast of Kenya, where a small town called Kilifi is Hamaji’s new home.

Image: Courtesy of Hamaji
Image: Courtesy of Hamaji

Jiamini

Designer name: Jennifer mulli

Based: Nairobi, Kenya

Category: Accessories

Collection inspiration: Spine. The spine is the first structure that forms inside the uterus. Everything is anchored to this structure, a pillar in the center of the back. From this place which supports the body and protects the spinal cord, everything flows. Its rigor creates balance; its agility allows flexible movement. Mung’ung’uti is an exploration of the spine as a compelling organic form, foundational structure, and symbol: the backbone of life.

Image: Courtesy of Jiamini
Image: Courtesy of Jiamini

Margaux Wong

Designer name: Margaux Wong

Based: Bujumbura, Burundi

Category: Jewelry designer

Collection inspiration: The Daisy Capsule, inspired by one of nature’s happiest and hardiest flowers, features daisy-like and abstract petal-based designs in the brand’s signature horn and brass combination.

Image: Courtesy of Margaux Wong
Image: Courtesy of Margaux Wong

Lukhanyo Mdingi

Designer name: Lukhanyo Mdingi

Based: Cape Town, South Africa

See also

Category: Ready to wear

Collection inspiration: The spirit of collaboration has always been at the forefront of the Lukhanyo Mdingi label. This season, we continue with that in mind; our new BRIDGES collection becomes a sublime celebration of the key networks and people behind the craft.

Image: Courtesy of Lukhanyo Mdingi
Image: Courtesy of Lukhanyo Mdingi

Suave Kenya

Designer name: Mohamed awale

Based: Nairobi, Kenya

Category: Accessories

Collection inspiration: Work from anywhere

Image: Courtesy of Suave Kenya
Image: Courtesy of Suave Kenya



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Fashion designer

Swiss Watch and IWC partner with top Malaysian fashion designers


Swiss Watch and IWC Schaffhausen go behind the scenes to discover the journeys of famous Malaysian designers in a rapidly changing landscape.

With the uncertainty created by today’s landscape, it goes without saying that change and transformation is happening quickly and beyond our control. On the contrary, it has driven many creatives to constantly experiment, evolve and develop their talents.

In a special collaboration to celebrate craftsmanship and strive for excellence, Swiss Watch and IWC are teaming up with three esteemed Malaysian fashion designers to talk about their personal challenges over the past two years and how they had to adapt and pivot to stay ahead. of their game.

Jovian Mandagie on staying together and trusting leadership

Since launching his eponymous brand – Jovian – in August 2012, Jovian Mandagie has established himself as one of Malaysia’s top designers. Jovian’s collections are highly sought after, and for good reason too, because his creations always aim to accentuate a woman’s look, whether it is a couture or ready-to-wear piece. That same intention played a big part in training Jovian through the COVID-19 crisis, which he admits has riddled him with uncertainty.

“I had no idea what was going to happen next, but luckily, with the support of my team and our ‘Jovianistas’, we were able to quickly turn the business from designing fashion clothes to items. essential like face masks, ”says Jovian. .

The decision to switch to accessories not only helped him weather the storm, but also opened up new opportunities for him in the world of styling.

He confides that despite their challenges, COVID-19 made Jovian’s team aware of different things about themselves. Whether it’s about trusting the leadership or depending on the team, supporting and supporting each other is extremely crucial. The crisis was an eye opener and highlighted the importance of staying together.

As a designer with a penchant for timeless, timeless and classic lines, Jovian is drawn to the IWC Portugieser Automatic Boutique Edition IW500713. With its attention to detail on a minute scale, applied Arabic numerals and slender leaf hands, the 42.3mm stainless steel model perfectly illustrates the Portugieser design.

Rizman Nordin on welcoming change and exploiting new opportunities

Rizman Nordin is a designer who connects with his unique flair and vision by combining colorful and glamorous plays on the red carpet. Running the famous fashion brand Rizman Ruzaini with its longtime business partner Wan Ruzaini Wan Jamil, the brand is known for presenting designs that are synonymous with their own distinctive identity.

But Rizman also has a tremendous business acumen to match his creativity as a designer. Finding opportunities and ways to be successful in business is fueled by his responsibility as a leader. When the pandemic hit, the brand immediately moved to an online platform to meet the ‘new normal’.

“I realized that people were staying at home, so I transformed my business to accommodate this new dynamic,” Rizman recalls. “I have a strong team behind me, and I know they depend on me, so that’s my motivation.”

While COVID-19 has been disruptive for all businesses, the designer admits being at home has given him the luxury of spending time with family. He was able to be with his wife throughout her pregnancy with their first daughter and watch her grow up, for which he is extremely grateful.

A busy man like Rizman is someone who divides his day into routines. To match his hectic lifestyle, the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar IW503605 is the perfect fit for him. With its 46mm stainless steel case and blue dial, it carries on the long-standing tradition of Big Pilot’s perpetual calendar watches – keeping the wearer’s pulse on time and the tasks at hand.

Khoon Hooi on the power of perseverance in the uncertainty of time

Having been at the forefront of the industry since the late 90s, Khoon Hooi has become a household name in Malaysian fashion after launching his own brand. But alas – like most – the pandemic has proven to be a huge challenge for him.

“Our brand focuses on second-hand clothing, so COVID-19 has turned out to be a particularly difficult time for us,” shares Khoon Hooi. “There were no events, no weddings, and on top of that, we also ran the production on our own, which abruptly came to a halt.”

Despite the challenges, Khoon Hooi confronts them head-on. He changes gears and evolves his brand from a simple second-hand clothing design to the introduction of lifestyle creations that can be worn every day, such as loungewear, masks and kaftans for children. .

Khoon Hooi expresses that the lockdown made time feel like time was slowing down and made him think about his future. It changes his perspective as a fashion designer. He is also extremely proud of his team for stepping up and working together through the most difficult times.

Time turned out to be a luxury for Khoon Hooi. The designer admits that she is indeed precious, especially because of her busy schedule. For this reason, he finds the qualities of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch 43 IW329301 very appealing. Functional and elegant, it exudes the qualities of a true pilot’s watch. The 43-millimeter stainless steel timepiece offers a strong presence on the wrist and is equipped with an automatic movement with automatic winding.

Discover hope through a creative lens

Through these unique stories shared by Malaysia’s top fashion designers, Swiss Watch and IWC Schaffhausen offered insight into the challenges facing this diverse group of individuals. It highlights the creativity, tenacity and resilience that have been forged during times of adversity. Yet it also shows that despite the disruptions, this difficult time also presented an opportunity for many to adjust, reassess and take stock of their lives.

This collaboration between Swiss Watch and IWC Schaffhausen with Jovian Mandagie, Rizman Nordin and Khoon Hooi highlights the trials, tribulations and perseverance faced by many during the global crisis. This intimate journey of hope and inspiration told through the lens of these talented designers is intended to serve as an important source of encouragement in these truly unprecedented times.

Swiss Watch is an authorized retailer for IWC Schaffhausen, located at Level 2, Pavilion Kuala Lumpur.


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Fashion style

30 denim styles for spring dressing


We know Tiktok says skinny jeans are out. And in a post-pandemic world, as many Australians return in hard pants, we are advocating for adequate legroom. Calves call for freedom, so wide legs, 70s-style flared pants and bootcut jeans are the answer. But finding the perfect pair of trendy jeans is a battle – a battle many denim fans have yet to conquer. So we’ve rounded up our favorite styles to make it easier to find this laid-back denim, along with some skinny jeans suggestions for those who prefer a more streamlined pant bottom.

set ablaze

Like Farrah Fawcett on her skate in charlie’s angels, the silhouette of the 70s invites itself in wardrobes around the world. Peachay jeans made in Melbourne are designed to fit smaller waists and juicier hips, buttocks and thighs. This summer, adopt its signature style in white. The brand does not use traditional pruning, but instead opts for names like Sunflower, Tulip and Lily. Arnhem’s Savannah flare jeans hug in all the right places, and Assembly Label’s high-waisted flare jeans are slightly cropped, making them the perfect pair to go from brunch to an afternoon aperitif. . The Byron Bay Thrills brand introduced a more comfortable and stretchy option in their best-selling high-waisted, wide-leg jeans, the Belle. It will fit your hips perfectly and is available in seven colors.

Bootscootin ‘

Bootcut jeans – so called because you can optionally put a pair of boots under them – are more subtle than flares. And their return comfortably coincides with the resurgence of platform boots. Local label Neuw Denim’s Debbie bootcut is high waisted with a relaxed knee. Brisbane-based Outland Denim is dedicated to sustainable practices, with a mission to empower victims of human trafficking. The Mirage jeans in indigo wash have a wide fit and high waist. And, of course, there’s the classic Levi’s bootcut to wear all week.

Mom is the word

The 1970s weren’t the only denim decade to experience a resurgence. Chain style icon Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy with these ’90s-inspired mom jeans, a generally relaxed fit with a high waist that tapers to the ankle. Breezy Britts from Nudie, Frankies from Nobody and mum jeans from Zara are some of our favorite styles. These are available in seven colors – and cost $ 59.95.

If I were your boyfriend

Copenhagen fashion house Ganni’s new denim line offers seven basic styles in a variety of washes. The double fly detail on the Figni jeans means they can be worn as a low rise cut or cinched higher on the waist. The LA Boyish brand took its signature Ziggy style and added carpenter details for a workwear feel. And Bassike’s unisex fit was designed in Australia, made in Japan.

Skinny Love

Nobody Denim has been worn by Beyoncé, Miranda Kerr and Emma Stone. But the brand’s local success suggests there is no need for international expansion. Her denim is still washed, dyed, aged and made into wearable clothing from her Fitzroy denim factory in Melbourne. And despite Tiktok’s commission, the label’s cult Skinny Ankle remains a signature style. Other favorites include these ultra-high rise jeans with removable belt from Reformation and this white pair from Re / done. And for the denim to accompany you in warm weather, we recommend the bike-short style from Viktoria & Woods.

Denim jackets

Greg Lauren is an artist, designer and nephew of fashion designer Ralph Lauren. He makes deconstructed clothes with combinations of couture, patchwork and vintage fabrics. Make a statement in the pinstripe denim blazer. Or wear the Canadian tuxedo with Denimsmith’s cropped shawl jacket, with gorgeous edge details, paired with this belted skirt. Deadly Denim was founded by Rebecca Rickard, a Ballardong, Whadjuk woman of the Noongar Nation living and working on Country in Perth. The recycled denim brand features creations by Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander artists in its unique pieces. Customize your own denim jacket with Cungelella’s Marapai design.

Splashes of color

You can count on the Byron Bay Afends brand to add a playful touch to your serious denim wardrobe. Find us this summer in these vintage pink dungarees washed with hemp. And these wide jeans from Rollas will soften up over time. We also love Kowtow’s bold button-down skirt.

Sustainable

While denim – made from a durable cotton fabric – is one of the most widely used materials in the world, it also has devastating effects on the environment. But there are many local and international manufacturers looking to reduce their impact. Keeper Denim, founded in Perth by former architect and financial analyst Kate Bartuccio, is one of them. The label was born after Bartuccio watched the Real cost documentary, which helped her see the dark side of the fast-paced fashion industry and its impact on garment workers and the environment. Its range is limited to skinny jeans – and this light indigo pair is perfectly stretchy. Meanwhile, ELV Denim takes unwanted jeans destined for the landfill and turns them into modern pieces. All leftovers are donated to renowned artist Ian Berry, who creates pictorial works using denim. The ELV team, based in East London, cut each piece by hand. Her long dress is made of 46 pieces of denim.

Back in Australia, First Principles is one of the few bespoke denim brands in the country, offering bespoke jeans where you can choose the style, material, wash, fit, thread and buttons. Order your sample pack here or shop for pieces from her ready-to-wear collection online – the straight leg with fringes is our choice. Hera Denim is another local brand designed for women with a smaller waist and fuller hips, thighs and buttocks. Pre-orders for her first style – a loose fit made from 100% Japanese denim – launched on October 1. Elk worked with sustainable denim maker Saitex to produce five-pocket jeans with a flattering wide-legged silhouette. It’ll be back in stock very soon, and made from 91 percent cotton, seven percent lycra, and two percent spandex, it’s super comfortable. If cords are more your thing, give them a try.

And the trick to making your jeans last longer? Find tips for taking care of your denim here.



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Fashion brand

The Kudos Project: fashion with Caribbean cool


Newsletter: FT Weekend

It’s a Sunday morning, and Veeraj Haria-Shah and Alexandra Richards, co-founders of ready-to-wear brand Coconut Residence, are sitting side by side on a sofa. “We had dinner last night with our two families,” says Hariah-Shah. “We try to get together as much as possible, but my parents are in North London and Alexandra’s are in the South.” Richards smiled: “Yes, we are together, together, ”she says, laughing; the duo are a couple as well as business partners. It is a personal connection that goes to the roots of the company.

Coconut Residence, launched in 2020, is an exploration of the couple’s shared heritage – Richards’ Guyanese and Saint Vincentian background with Haria-Shah’s Kenyan-Indian roots. The collections for men, women and unisex include colorful linen suits, sweaters, hoodies and accessories, including market bags and beanies. The richness of overlapping experiences is particularly evident in the collection of shiny linen shirts (£ 120) and shorts with buckles (£ 95), inspired by the meeting of Indian Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru and industrial designers Charles and Ray Eames. in 1958. It also fuels the collaboration with Canadian photographer and reggae superfan Beth Lesser, who has seen T-shirts printed with portraits of icons from Jamaican dancehall culture (£ 50).

Kota Market Bag, £ 45

Chela Linen Jacket in Nairobi Green, £ 295

Chela Linen Jacket in Nairobi Green, £ 295

Alexandra Richards, left, and Veeraj Haria-Shah, founders of Coconut Residence

Alexandra Richards, left, and Veeraj Haria-Shah, founders of Coconut Residence

These two concepts speak of moments rich in cultural significance and global connections. “We couldn’t really identify with a brand created specifically by people in our background,” says Haria-Shah. “But these were stories very based on our history and our immigration.” Richards talks about the experiences of his grandfather, a black lawyer, who came to London as part of the Windrush Generation. Haria-Shah talks about her maternal grandparents and the success of their food export business.

The idea for the brand came from an Indian meal, where they were struck by the similarities of their Caribbean and Indian cultural heritages. “I told Alexandra that she should try chana masala, and her response was, ‘Chana? My grandmother does that, ”recalls Haria-Shah. “We started to understand how it all happened.” Together, they browsed through family photos of their grandparents in tailored suits and dresses and found the energy of “recently arrived in London” to be fertile roots for the brand they were to create.

Both had fashion backgrounds. Richards’ early interest in styling led her to pursue an internship with independent label Catherine Fulmer in the United States. Hariah-Shah’s degree in fashion management was followed by a position as a buyer at Marks and Spencer and mentorship from Savile Row designer Mark Powell. “I started selling jeans in my school locker when I was 15. Where there should have been books, there was Japanese selvedge denim, ”he recalls. The two finally met in 2013, when they were both buyers at Paul Smith.

Barrington Levy T-shirt, £ 50

Barrington Levy T-shirt, £ 50

Kota market bag, £ 45, and Chela linen jacket in Nairobi green, £ 295

Kota market bag, £ 45, and Chela linen jacket in Nairobi green, £ 295

Recently, the duo collaborated with London illustrator Gaurab Thakali on a limited series of sweatshirts and t-shirts featuring activist and athlete Colin Kaepernick from Thakali, in support of action against brutality. policewoman (T-shirts £ 50, hoodies £ 65). They also continue to develop a model that emphasizes sourcing from small family businesses, sharing profits with coworkers and donating meals to The Felix Project, a UK charity that fights food poverty and food waste.

As the conversation returns to the family, Richards says, “Our parents and grandparents were pioneers, weren’t they? and look at Hariah-Shah. “And they were also resistant,” he adds. In the years to come, hopefully their own grandchildren will be sitting on a couch saying something very similar about them.

coco-residence.com


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Fashion designer

34 Latinx-Owned Fashion Brands You Should Know About


Although the vast majority of Latinxes pride themselves on always looking their best, even going to the corner store (because, as our mothers have anchored it in our brains, you never know what’s this will happen where “whogoing to be there), Latinx communities are not a monolithic culture. Across the diaspora there is a plethora of cultures which, yes, often overlap.

Our rich heritage allows us to flourish in the creative fields. From a handful of brands that dominate the beauty industry and boy bands that are on every Gen Z playlist, Latinx are heading towards the mainstream, so you better get used to it.

One way we like to incorporate the best Latinx brands is in what we wear. Whether it’s innovative knits, AOC approved sports masks, or sustainably crafted handbags, we’ve rounded up a wide range of Latinx fashion brands for you to check out.


All products featured on Teen Vogue are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

A Vogue teens Alum from Generation Next, Krystal Paniagua is a Puerto Rican designer whose pieces are full of meaning. Each of Paniagua’s knitted garments are intended to accentuate the wearer’s body and are designed with longevity in mind.

Martin Across creations are handcrafted in Ecuador and showcase the landscapes and the joys of travel, which we all crave lately.

Based between Puerto Rico and New York, Santos by Mónica produces fun and electric bags made from vegetable leather made from cactus fibers grown in Mexico. Mónica Santos Gil’s brand is focused on slow fashion and returning the resources that were used to make the products back to nature.

Known for their bold prints and vibrant colors, this Brazilian brand is a celebrity that has been producing bright, avant-garde pieces since 1997 and they are also very environmentally conscious. Farm Rio has partnered with One Tree Planted, an organization that helps global reforestation, to donate a tree to plant in the Amazon rainforest every time you make a purchase.

Luiny’s aesthetic is a #but. This Puerto Rican jewelry designer crafts her pieces by hand in Brooklyn, NY. Her timeless yet daringly minimalist designs that reflect her love for her travels and her organic lifestyle.

Ethically made in Ecuador, Hera is a conscious fashion brand that prioritizes natural fibers, dyes and vintage textiles. With Isabel Prez at the helm, Hera focuses on unique and cool pieces that draw inspiration from music, culture and art.

Made from recycled metals, Hernán Herdez is a seasonless jewelry line from Puerto Rican designer and artistic director Melissa Hernández. Formerly known as Coyote Negro, you’ve probably saved tons of her IG images in your inspiration boards.

Founded by Kristen Gonzales and Sam Romero in 2016, Selva Negra is a ready-to-wear brand designed in a sustainable manner and with accessibility in mind. Most of the pieces cost under $ 200 and are ethically produced in downtown Los Angeles using fabrics sourced from Los Angeles, California, Japan, and Turkey.

Annais Yucra is an emerging designer from Peru who studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins in London. Since graduating with honors, Annais Yucra has been designing pieces that rewrite our approach to fashion.

Centered on the Latinx identity, Hija de tu Madre was founded in 2016 by Patty Delgado. In their shop you can find pieces with phrases like “Make Jefa Moves”, “Ya Guey”, “Yo quiero dinero” and of course, the iconic “Latina” hoops.

Simonnet is not just an independent store where you can buy designer pieces from Ottolinger, Saks Potts and Tigra Tigra; it is also a ready-to-wear brand signed Simonett Pereira.

Cuyana, these are high quality timeless pieces. Founded by Karla Gallardo and Shilpa Shah in 2011, Cuyana’s philosophy is really less is more, especially when it comes to building your capsule wardrobe.

Lagotta is a sustainable swimwear brand that has expanded into beauty, wellness, CBD, and resort wear, but still makes minimizing waste and prioritizing small manufacturing its primary focus. Goals.

Yo Soy Afro Latina was created by Bianca Kathryn to empower black women within the Latinx community and remind people of the rich cultures of Latinidad.

Victor Barragán founded his eponymous label, Barragán, in 2016. Thanks to his unique and eye-catching designs, in 2019 Barragán was recognized by Anna Wintour and the CFDA. Since then, a larger platform has allowed Victor to become a leading voice in Mexican fashion.

Based in Mexico City, Tuza is a jewelry brand of Suzza Atala that fuses her love for sculpture and design.

Mexican-born artist Ilse Valfré launched Valfré in 2013 and since then his unique and vibrant creations have never stopped stopping.

Based in Brooklyn but born and raised in Mexico City, Sabrina Olivera is a fashion designer who reinvents potential clothes, fabrics and textures from a storytelling perspective. For example, his latest company is called “Soldaderas”. In it, she explores the way women fighters of the Mexican revolution dress and behave.

Mozhdeh Matin is the Peruvian designer behind Mozh Mozh, a slow fashionable women’s clothing brand that showcases and emphasizes Peruvian textiles and techniques such as alpaca, cotton, wool and rubber. natural.

Since Kare Perez’s brand, Second Wind, launched amid the pandemic in 2020, it has received press recognition and support from AOC – all thanks to its fashionable and comfortable face masks.

Johanna Ortiz founded her eponymous brand in 2003 in Cali, Colombia and it’s all about drawing and celebrating the complexities of femininity.

Founded in 2019 by Colombian designer Monika Silva, Gauge81 is all about reinventing basics with imaginative designs.

Rooted in the ideals of fair labor, environmentally responsible manufacturing and social responsibility, Ética denim was founded by Agustín Ramírez in 2018 in Puebla, Mexico.

Taking tote bags to a new level, Mayorga is a Tijuana, Mexico-based accessories brand that has taken TikTok by storm.

Handcrafted in São Paulo since 2006, Alexandre Pavao’s creations are a maximalist’s dream. If you like to have fun with your outfits, these bags have your name all over the place.

JZD’s Pink Latina Power Tee is the brand’s flagship piece. However, JZD is more than that. It is a lifestyle brand that builds community and celebrates the culture on a daily basis, since 2016.

Born by Agustina Dubié in 2012, Dubié’s stylish shoes are made in Argentina and heavily influenced by the 90s. They are stylish but perfect for everyday wear.

What started out as an Instagram account quickly grew into an organized e-commerce site for Latinx brands. Shop Latinx was started by Guatemalan / Nicaraguan Brittany Chavez in 2016 and it’s your one-stop-shop for discovering and supporting emerging Latinx talent. But that’s not all, Shop Latinx also showcased its first merchandise collection, which features a range of products such as t-shirts, tote bags and more that celebrate the Latinx community.

Puerto Rican twin sisters Corianna and Brianna Dotson aren’t just DJs, they’re entrepreneurs too. They founded their eyewear brand, Coco and Breezy Eyewear, in 2009 and have almost instantly become popular among stylish celebrities.

Designed by Dominican Carolyn Compress and made in the Dominican Republic, Olette is an ode to stylish comfort, durability and her Caribbean roots.

Jomary Segarra started knitting with her grandmother at the age of seven, but it wasn’t until 2016 that she founded Yo +, an ethical brand that fuses knitwear and technology to create clothes without gender.

Made from recycled plastic, El Cholo’s Kid is an accessories brand that gives us a glimpse into Mexican artisan culture through an updated and stylish lens. It was founded in 2008 by Daisy Romero.

Ojo Sagrado is a slow fashion brand, known for its recycled denim, which has Mexican design and heritage as its top priorities. Founded by Jessica Gutierrez and Daniela Ruiz, both from Puebla, Ojo Sagrado prides itself on being 100% Mexican, from materials to production. The brand also operates on a zero stock basis, with make-to-order requests and worldwide shipping.

You want more Vogue teens? Check this out:
CNCO has created the ultimate Spanish music playlist just for you



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Fashion style

Running out of Netflix shows to watch? Try these.


PARIS – The last year and a half of being glued to the small screen for work and pleasure, desperate for any new escape piece, be it a blockbuster, arthouse or d ‘a glossy series, must have forever changed our relationship to the moving image, raising the stakes and expectations. And while when fashion first went live, the idea of ​​turning a runway show into video seemed like a potential savior for the industry, it also exposed some of the limits of the fashion imagination.

Watching model after model walk around the screen, even with sophisticated camera angles, it quickly became very easy to look away.

This is especially true now that in-person shows – like big screen cinematic experiences – are making a comeback; now that video has become a conscious choice, rather than a necessity. For some, like Dries Van Noten, it is about health problems linked to a pandemic; for others, like Marine Serre, it is a creative imperative.

Whatever the motive, however, it has become increasingly clear that in order for a designer to opt for a mini-movie over a runway show, there has to be a specific reason for the video to be; something you can do onscreen and can’t do in person.

The medium must be part of the message. (My apologies to Marshall McLuhan.)

Ms. Serre, a designer who thinks deeply about the current state of affairs, has always understood this. (Well, she tends to be the first with a lot of things: an avid cyclist, she also made masks before masks were a part of everyday life, and she’s already gone from addiction to her logo to widely recognized crescent moon.)

She made two of the most successful fashion films from previous digital seasons, in part because each contained a narrative thread that, like her fashion, which relied on recycling long before it became a runway trend, was rooted in the world. . Not just the world of environmental policy, but literal everyday life materials.

To that end, she said, the film “allows me to go further than I can with a show, to break the boundaries of fashion in a certain way”, to show people not only how to wear his clothes, but how to live and how to act within them. .

She did it again this season, in a garden in the Marais, where her film, “Ostel 24”, could be premiered on the big screen. One day in the life of a single, tight-knit community, he showed them meditating, driving, kneading dough, eating, dancing alone in their rooms, crushing cherries to make candy. tincture, especially to look after each other. To take care. To pay attention.

Whether they wore clothes that were also deeply imbued with a sense of personal alchemy that can transform vintage Dutch sheets (embroidered napkins and tablecloths) into delicate tea dresses, or checkered terry cloth tea towels into lunch costumes. a la Chanel, or the ’90s popcorn tops that nobody likes anymore in extraordinary collages of prints and colors (sometimes 15 tops in a dress), were part of the story. A reminder that the choices you make are important, from what you put on in the morning, what you eat and who you share it with.

Like, in a different way, was Thebe Magugu’s “Genealogy”, like Ms. Serre, a relatively young freelance designer who found a more intimate voice through digital than in the resonant surroundings of the runway.

A sort of family memory / therapy session, as well as a surprisingly personal guide to his formative influences, the film showed Mr. Magugu leading a sort of round table discussion with his mother, Iris Magugu, and his maternal aunt, Esther Magugu, as he ‘they browsed through old family photos from their lives in the South African mining town of Kimberley and discussed their favorite clothes – which Mr Magugu had translated into his new collection.

So her mother’s prized trench coat became a beige and sky blue off-the-shoulder trench coat. A nurse’s periwinkle blue uniform became a neat shirt dress with trumpet sleeves, the hemline plunging down the back. Ditto for the cashmere print of a beloved dress, with a sophisticated rockabilly touch. As an expression of how the past informs the present (and the future), and how memories are contained in what we wear, it has been done with elegance and power.

And that gave Riccardo Tisci’s Burberry video a calculated and antiseptic aspect in comparison: a sort of mix and match version of the house codes (trench coats! Leather!) Which have become viral hits; butterfly and cow prints and plush faux fox tail accessories paraded through a landscape of rooms. Many of the more classic trench coats, as it turned out, were cut entirely at the back to expose the back. Shock! Transgression! Cold? Also: Why?

At least Mr. Van Noten’s discontinuous compilation of movements, colors and music communicated the intensity of the collection, which, seen in the accompanying photographs, looked like nothing but a stream in pure fashion: volumes and puffed seam ruffles. , rainbow fringe cascades, fuzzy fireworks prints, rhinestone covered denim – idea after idea, each one seeming more tactile and maximalist than the next.

In a conversation on Zoom, Mr Van Noten said he had thought of festivals, both Burning Man in the desert and India’s colorful Holi, and how people come together to express their joy. His clothes were all that. But it made the disconnect between what they represented and the fact that they were trapped, onscreen, particularly frustrating. When what the viewer should really feel was captivated.

Emotional and technological connectivity is not enough; you also need context. This is the place where the stories we tell ourselves weave into the fabric. This is when you hit rewind. And watch it over and over again, until it’s ready to wear.


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Fashion designer

The year of tribute is dedicated to the transmission and creation of isothermal bags


Courtesy of the brand

Antoine Manning is the 22-year-old fashion designer who founded Tribute Year, an emerging brand that was established in 2014. Manning, originally from the Bronx, NY, now resides in Atlanta, GA, where several young black entrepreneurs are making their mark. Being raised by two Jamaican immigrants made Antoine the first generation American in his family. After his father passed away, Manning realized that life was too short to live someone else’s dream, so he pursued his own and dove into fashion design.

The emerging designer’s passion for design stems from his love for fashion. “I’ve always loved fashion, but I couldn’t always afford it,” says Manning. The possibility of being told that something is inaccessible prompts him to refute this account, which has led him to design his own outfits. “I like being the underdog,” he added.

Homage Year is currently an accessories brand known for its egg-shaped handbags which come in a range of colors. While Manning manages to sell himself quickly every time he restarts the website, his followers flood the brand’s Instagram comments anticipating the next drop. The young designer is about to create the next “it bag” for fashion lovers and creatives. I remember walking the streets of New York City and seeing the bag twice in one day – the distinct design and bright colors are hard to ignore.

Now that Manning runs a business in demand, he has been fortunate to work with a team of equally talented individuals. “I was solo until this year, and now I work with a small team of consultants who help me cultivate the best brand experience,” he shares.

Along with the brand’s beloved bag design, supporters also relate to it on an emotional level. “The Year of Honor was created to honor my people,” Manning said. Behind each bag, which is frequently presented in a new colourway, is a message promoting a chosen virtue. For example, the two-tone green bag represents tranquility and the brown bag represents solidarity. Manning intentionally uses the brand to spark conversation and as a tool to advance his followers. “We are what we want to see in the world,” he says. “And I hope that the people who receive the love and the care will do the same in the future.”

Being the CEO of a rapidly growing company at the age of 22 can be intimidating, but Manning handles it well as he has noted that his work style aligns with trusting his intuition. His ideas go far beyond the simple sale of clothes, he is very attached to the community. and pay it in advance. Over the next few months, Manning will launch a Year of Honor initiative that will fund at least five entrepreneurs who have great ideas and need financial support. He hopes they will continue the movement and give it to the next entrepreneur in need.

Coming up, Manning connects with ESSENCE for a conversation about her journey so far and what to expect from the Year of Tributes in the near future.

ESSENCE: How does it feel to have a team now and see your business grow?

Manning: It feels really good. I almost feel validated if you know what I mean. There are people who take it seriously enough to invest their time in the brand. Like Antoine [Gregory], and Black Fashion Fair.

ESSENCE: It’s a “reap what you sow” moment, because you have invested your personal time and your vision in the brand. And now other people can see the value of vision as well.

Manning: Yeah, exactly.

ESSENCE: As a brand engaging in a deeper conversation through fashion, what is one of the main messages that you are promoting through Homage right now?

Manning: One of the main messages right now is selflessness. Especially considering the time we are in and everyone is super sensitive. My goal for those who are part of the brand and the community we build is to be more open and understanding towards everyone. Like “yes I count, but someone else matters too”.

ESSENCE: Where do you see your brand in five years?

Manning: Growing in RTW fashion. I would love to grow what we have with the bag with RTW. And also continue to support our community with creative funding and humanity issues like homelessness. And all in all just being a change in the world, not just a brand and clothes, but let’s create things that matter that will last beyond my life.

ESSENCE: Where do you tend to get inspiration from for campaign photos?

Manning: We try to fully understand the meaning of the product. I am very intuitive with my work process and I just trust my team and the people around me.

ESSENCE: I think it shines through in your business by promoting virtues such as abundance and tranquility and incorporating it into your business model by trusting your intuition – it literally indicates how your success has manifested itself . Anything you can share about future projects or versions of the Tribute Year for our readers?

Manning: Our short term goals are to create ready-to-wear, give back to our community, and do what feels good.

SUBJECTS: Year tribute to fashion Antoine Manning



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French fashion

Charles de Vilmorin: new star of Parisian fashion


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There is no doubt that Charles de Vilmorin is a rising star of Parisian fashion. In April 2020, at the age of 23, he launched his eponymous label on Instagram, in the midst of a pandemic. Within months, the industry buzz around him saw one of his designs (a psychedelic bomber jacket) appear in an Apple commercial about American rapper Tierra Whack. Soon after, Jean Paul Gaultier sponsored him to be a scheduled guest at Paris Haute Couture Week in January this year. Two weeks later, he was appointed the new creative director of the famous French fashion house Rochas.

Founded in 1925 by French designer Marcel Rochas, the house was best known for its signature fragrance, Femme. After the death of the designer in 1955, the fashion branch of the company closed its doors, to be relaunched in 1990 under its perfume owner Wella, then acquired by Procter & Gamble. After four years of critical success under Olivier Theyskens as Artistic Director, P&G again shut down the brand’s fashion division from 2006 to 2008. Italian designer Marco Zanini then threw his hat into the ring, followed by Alessandro dell’Acqua whose departure in December 2019 led to a year in which the house was without a creative director.

De Vilmorin himself has an interesting heritage. Much has been said about the creator’s bond with the poet, novelist and socialite Louise de Vilmorin (her grandfather’s great-aunt), who was also a close friend of Hélène Rochas, wife and muse of the founder Marcel. However, neither de Vilmorin nor Rochas knew of their family ties when he was offered the appointment. And, yes, there is a castle that bears his family name, the Château de Vilmorin in Verrières-le-Buisson. But he never went. In fact, the designer says he spends most of his time crouching on his sewing machine on the floor of his Parisian maid’s room.

Charles de Vilmorin in a thoughtful mood. . . . © Matthieu Delbrève

. . . in his Parisian house © Matthieu Delbruve

“It’s true that my family, in general, is super creative and taught me a lot about art and culture,” explains de Vilmorin, whose mother is an art teacher and whose father is financial director. “In some articles, [it is written] that I come from a very rich family and that I am [at Rochas] because Louise de Vilmorin was a friend of Hélène Rochas, but this is totally false.

Aged 24 and very calm, de Vilmorin spices up his speech with charming Frenglish superlatives such as “mega”, “totally”, “super” and “crazy!” (crazy). He studied at the Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale de la Mode et de la Couture, (followed by a master’s degree at the Institut Français de la Mode). De Vilmorin’s universe is dreamlike and fantastic, its exaggerated silhouettes and cheerful palettes, mixing surrealism with streetwise. “The Charles de Vilmorin woman is a bit shy, a bit ‘trashy’. She doesn’t know where she wants to go, but she goes. she corresponds [more] for me she is naive and a bit. . . ”He stops, searching for the word. “Clumsy!”

His first collection for his own brand, a series of ready-to-wear aviator jackets, was decorated with pictorial prints in acid shades hand drawn by the designer. These pieces evolved into its couture offering of leggings, chunky bombers and dresses with puffed sleeves, dripping with painted butterflies, rainbows and enticingly colored clown prints, inspired by Chagall, Dalí, Matisse. and Niki de Saint Phalle.

How will he reconcile this aesthetic with that of the more classic and elegant Rochas? “The Rochas woman and the Charles de Vilmorin woman are absolutely not the same. These are two totally different stories, ”he suggests. “The Rochas woman has a past. She is more confident, more sophisticated.

Rochas Resort 22 collection by Charles de Vilmorin

De Vilmorin says that the founder Marcel Rochas created the brand in the service of his wife Helene in 1925, but he wants “to tell the story of a more independent woman who does not need the help of her husband. I love Rochas’s story, but I think now we need the story of a super free woman.

This is a vision shared by Fabio Ducci, President of High Italian Manufacturing (formerly Onward Luxury Group), Rochas’ licensing partner. The brand’s parent company, Interparfums, announced the extension of its partnership with HIM for the Rochas women’s line on the day of Vilmorin’s appointment: its ability to embrace the brand’s past while guiding it towards a new one. time.

More looks from Rochas Resort 22

De Vilmorin’s first collection for the brand, Resort 2022, has not yet been marketed. Although the collection has only been shown to a few buyers, Ducci notes that it has generated interest. “This collection is a deliberate break with the past, and it resonates most with our business partners who are forward thinking and experimental,” he says. De Vilmorin’s second collection, which will be shown in Paris on Wednesday, will take the starting point of a woman in the middle of a house fire, throwing herself frantically into her wardrobe to save her precious Rochas. The flame burns flame prints on golden pleated lurex, a trompe-l’oeil jacquard that seems to drip from the heat, and flame-colored shoes and boots.

When asked why he thought Rochas had chosen him out of a handful of hopefuls, de Vilmorin said: “I think they liked the fact that I was not afraid to do a parade with clothes embroidered with erotic patterns and weird stuff. I proposed something more transgressive, while remaining in the codes of French couture.

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Fashion style

COS Fall / Winter 2021 introduces a new angle to contemporary fashion


COS Fall / Winter 2021 combines high fashion with everyday casual wear to bring you the ultimate must-have pieces for your wardrobe.

COS Fall / Winter 2021 recently debuted during London Fashion Week which was broadcast live around the world to set a new direction for the brand. With an emphasis on the concept of ‘rethinking the future’, it reinvigorates wardrobe classics with elevated design while providing simplicity and functionality. It’s now becoming an obsession for the fashion crowd, and here’s why.

[Hero and Featured Image Credit: COS]

Image Credit: COS

Sustainability is at the heart of the collection

With an ongoing commitment to sustainable development, COS Fall / Winter 2021 explores new ways of understanding contemporary culture through the prism of fashion. While material innovation and sustainable design are the main themes of the collection, the brand takes a careful approach to the production process to limit the use of natural resources. This includes making the most of organic and recycled materials as well as recycled fabrics.

Image Credit: COS

Clothing for women and men with a nod to retro influences

This season’s women’s clothing features relaxed, layered styles of oversized cuts and knits. They’re a nod to ’90s mod culture and minimalism, which emphasizes slimmer proportions, tailoring, and pinstripes. On the other hand, a relaxed and effortless approach endures in the collection of men’s clothing. Inspired by 1970s graphic jacquard, earthy landscapes and textures, the pieces perfectly refer to streetwear with a utilitarian style.

Image Credit: COS

Tonal but refreshing shades of color

The COS Fall / Winter 2021 palette explores tone-on-tone dressing; cool neutrals are paired with rich fall undertones. Winter whites, camel and stone are lifted by vibrant yellows and royal, dusty and light blue hues. Additionally, a fresh take on checks, stripes and houndstooth also helps to upgrade heritage prints.

Image of a model in COS outfit for the COS Fall / Winter 2021 article
Image Credit: COS

Complementary accessories

When it comes to accessories, the style versatility continues as a yellow faux fur clutch, leather gloves, scarves and hooded hybrids inject bursts of color into the COS Fall / Winter 2021 collection. Plus, the shoes feature an assortment of styles including chunky brogues and high shank boots. It’s a stylish take on modern classics that is sure to enhance and refresh your ready-to-wear wardrobe.




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Fashion brand

Dubai-based fashion brand to debut at Paris Fashion Week – Emirates Woman


Dubai-based fashion brand Ms Keepa is set to debut at Paris Fashion Week.

The brand, founded by the Franco-Egyptian designer Mariam Yeya, was invited to be part of the “Welcome to Paris” initiative of the Federation of Haute Couture and Fashion with the Arab Fashion Council.

The brand’s SS22 “Harmonious Chaos” collection will be presented on September 28, as part of the official Paris Fashion Week events calendar.

Breaking the news on her official Instagram page, Mariam shared her enthusiasm for the achievement for which she “worked so hard”.

She also said she “still can’t believe this is really happening”.

Since her creations border on ready-to-wear and couture, Mariam creates pieces designed to celebrate the female form by playing on different proportions, patterns, volumes, etc.

The “Harmonious Chaos” collection, which will be showcased at Paris Fashion Week, gives a contemporary and cool feel with evening dramas and easy-to-wear basics with edgy details.

Cutout and strappy long skirts, wide-leg camouflage cargo pants and larger-than-life sleeves are all at the heart of the collection.

The show will take place at 1 p.m. at the Palais de Tokyo, Club Yo-yo in Paris, presented by the Arab Fashion Council.

For all the details, visit parisfashionweek.fhcm.paris/en/next-events/.

– For more on the luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty, follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram

Feature image: provided by SemSem



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Fashion brand

28 denim brands to buy and add to your jean vocabulary


Every day is a good day when you wear your favorite jeans. But before I find the one, you probably had to sift through the many denim brands on the market and embark on a journey of trial and error. When you know who makes your perfect jeans, the task becomes that much easier.

Some brands focus on sourcing durable vintage fabrics that won’t lose their shape over time, while other groups focus on providing a personalized fit by weaving elastic fabrics into fine fibers. more structured cotton. In addition to the fit, there are also the ever-changing silhouettes, cuts and colors to consider.

Without getting too technical, we’ve rounded up the best denim brands to stay on your radar. Whether you’re looking for a bargain at Gap (our Accessories Director never stops singing the praises of this pair) or you’re ready to invest in a high-quality option from Khaite, there is something for everyone. Be sure to bookmark this page and add these labels to your fashion vocabulary before your next shopping date.

If you’re looking for a pair of jeans with sophisticated ease, cool California vibes are woven into every denim piece from Boyish.

Boyish the Ziggy at sunrise

The jeans Boyish The Charley in Greed

No need to borrow from the boys. Raye specializes in androgynous cuts, like those perfectly baggy styles.

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Raey pleated loose-fit organic cotton boyfriend jeans

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Raey cropped organic cotton straight-leg jeans

As Mother has expanded into a full collection of ready-to-wear clothing, it’s their jeans that keep us coming back. Perhaps you’ve seen this brand’s coveted denim yarns on stars like Meghan Markle and Katie Holmes.

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The jeans Mother The Runaway Step Fray in Not Guilty

Mother Rider Skimp high waist jeans

Framework

For handmade denim, turn to Frame. The brand pays great attention to details, such as subtly emphasized and refined stitching, barely distressed.

Mount The High Straight in Billups

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Frame The Italian Flare Rinse

Vintage lovers, this one is for you. As the name suggests, Re / Done takes retro silhouettes and updates them with a modern twist. We also offer bonus points for the eco-friendly system used in the dyeing process to minimize water wastage.

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Loose 90s Re / Done jeans

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Loose Fit 90s Re / Done High Rise Jeans

If you love the way stretch jeans hug your body, but are looking for something that looks as structured as a vintage pair, Gap’s beloved jeans are sure to become a favorite.

Gap High Rise Straight Cheeky Jeans with Washwell â„¢

Gap Sky High straight jeans

For timeless and effortless silhouettes, call on Rag & Bone to expand your denim collection.

Rag & Bone Dre Slim Boyfriend Ankle Jeans

Rag & Bone Dre Low rise slim fit jeans

Everlane has become a staple for jeans created using renewable energy and air-drying techniques that reduce CO2 emissions.

Jean Everlane The Way-High

Cheeky 90s Everlane The Curvy Jeans

Khaity

Chic and polished jeans from Khaite will enhance those laid back moments.

There’s no better brand to turn to for vintage ’90s-inspired jeans than Agolde; the brand dominated the decade and continues to breathe new life into the iconic, relaxed silhouette.

Balloon Agolde high-rise tapered jeans

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Pinch Waist ’90 Agolde Organic High Waist Straight Leg Jeans

With sizes from 00 to 32, Good American has prioritized creating jeans with almost any body shape since day one.

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Good American Good Legs High Rise Skinny Jeans

Good American Good ’90s High Rise Wide Leg Jeans

For jeans with a chic French touch, turn to L’Agence’s luxuriously constructed denim pieces.

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L’Agence Marguerite cropped high-rise skinny jeans

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L’Agence Margot cropped high-rise skinny jeans

While sustainability is at the forefront of Jeanerica’s design philosophy, it is the timeless silhouettes that will keep the brand’s designs in rotation for years and years to come.

High waist flared jeans Pyramid Jeanerica

Jeanerica Eiffel high waist bootcut

Get all your premium casual needs from Citizens of Humanity. And if you like stretch, the brand’s elastic jeans are designed to withstand multiple washes.

Libby Citizens of Humanity high-rise bootcut jeans

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High-waisted organic jeans Libby Citizens of Humanity

Don’t forget the proven American Eagle blues. The brand is responsible for creating some of the most comfortable jeans around.

American Eagle High-Rise Crossover Stretch Mom Jeans

Loose mom jeans American Eagle

Join fans Kate Moss and Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and achieve the model look with a pair of Goldsign jeans.

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

The Peg Goldsign high-rise tapered jeans

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Goldsign Morgan high-rise straight-leg jeans

The Tokyo brand Tu es mon Tresor leaves no stone unturned when creating their hand-finished jeans, made in Japan.

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

Tresor Emerald cropped high-waisted straight-leg boyfriend jeans

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Straight high-waisted rigid jeans with turn-up Tresor Cornaline You are my

You can build the backbone of your wardrobe with R13’s basics like her reliable hoodies, comfy flannel shirts, and – the reason we’re here – her coveted jeans.

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R13 distressed boyfriend jeans

R13 distressed boyfriend jeans

Here’s proof that jeans don’t have to be boring. Made in Tomboy plays with remarkable pleats and seams to add an interesting touch to its denim designs.

Wide high waist jeans Made in Tomboy Felisa

Wide high waist jeans Made in Tomboy Enea

For jeans made in Los Angeles, turn to Slvrlake’s bespoke denim pieces, which come in a plethora of colourways.

Slvrlake Savior high waist straight jeans

Slvrlake Hero cropped high-rise straight-leg jeans

Keep up to date with the latest news by shopping for Grlfrnd’s selection of trendy jeans.

Grlfrnd Bella low-rise boyfriend jeans

Grlfrnd Hailey low rise slim jeans

Nothing is lost in the process of making ELV Denim jeans. Deadstock and straps come back to life in the brand’s enduring creations.

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

Boyfriend jeans ELV Denim The Contrast

ELV Denim The Twin cropped straight-leg jeans

Once trendy and a wardrobe staple, 7 For All Mankind’s jeans have a strength that will stand the test of time.

7 For All Mankind B (AIR) Authentic Denim Dojo jeans in Destiny

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7 For All Mankind The Skinny Jeans in Balance Blue

There is nothing quite like a classic, and Levi’s trustworthy styles have truly stood the test of time. Try out his iconic 501s or try out his new styles of jeans for dad.

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

High waisted dad jeans Levi’s

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Levi’s Authorized Vintage 501 Original slim straight leg jeans

If buttery soft jeans are at the top of your wishlist, look no further. Madewell’s denim finds have become synonymous with comfy jeans.

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

Madewell The Mom jeans in Foster Wash

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Madewell The Perfect Vintage Cropped Straight Jeans In Edendale Wash

Whether you go to dinner or go shopping, you will find a style that will adapt to every moment in the AG collection.

AG Deven high-waisted wide-leg jeans

Image may contain: Clothing, Apparel, Pants, Denim and Jeans

High-waisted, straight-leg AG Alexxis jeans


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Fashion designer

How 13 Fashion Week designs looked at the 2021 IRL Emmy Awards


The latest fashion week collections have reigned over the 2021 Emmys red carpet, with many celebrities looking to Valentino, Carolina herrera, Markarian, Dior and other designer brands for their looks.

Carolina herrerais recent spring 2022 ready-to-wear collection, who celebrated 40 years of the legendary design house, was a favorite among many celebrities who wore the dresses of creative director Wes Gordon on the Red carpet. “This Is Us” star Mandy Moore and “American Horror Story” star Sarah Paulson looked at the collection’s red dresses, with Moore wearing a spaghetti strap, tulle dress and Paulson wearing a tulle dress. ‘a voluminous dress with oversized sleeves.

More from WWD

Valentino sewing has also left its mark Emmys Red carpet. “Schitt’s Creek” designer and star Dan Levy – who previously wore the design house’s menswear pieces during this year’s awards season – chose a cobalt blue gabardine jacket with a shirt in crumpled velvet and matching wool pants from Pierpaolo Piccioli’s fall 2021 sewing collection presented in July.

Dan Levy (right) in Valentino at the 2021 Emmy Awards - <a class=Credit: WWD” src=”https://s.yimg.com/ny/api/res/1.2/d51LfDWh3cF9p87d9Rlrmg–/YXBwaWQ9aGlnaGxhbmRlcjt3PTk2MDtoPTk2MA–/https://s.yimg.com/uu/api/res/1.2/uoHoMKnqjLiTelK.HIpGBA–~B/aD0xOTM2O3c9MTkzNjthcHBpZD15dGFjaHlvbg–/https://media.zenfs.com/en/wwd_409/b037099126b9bf1b634d581d0d2093b6″/>

Dan Levy (right) in Valentino at the 2021 Emmy Awards – Credit: WWD

WWD

Former Levy’s co-star Annie Murphy also wore a colorful look from the Valentino fall 2021 couture collection: a green draped chiffon shirt dress. “Black-ish” actress Tracee Ellis Ross was another celebrity who turned to the collection, wearing a bright red chiffon gown embroidered with tubular beads.

Other celebrities have turned to earlier designer collections for the Emmys, including “Lovecraft Country” actress Jurnee Smollett, who opted for an ivory hand-pleated corolla dress from Dior’s fall 2020 couture collection.

Click the gallery above to see more celebrity red carpet looks at the 2021 Emmys on the Fashion Week catwalks.

READ MORE HERE:

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Carl Clemons-Hopkins honors non-binary flag with Emmys look

Launch gallery: Photos of the looks of the 2021 Emmy Awards on the Fashion Week show

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Fashion designer

Elie Balleh showcased his Fall22 ‘The After Covid Recovery’ sewing collection at NYFW


Fashion designer Elie Balleh presented his next couture collection FALL22 “The after Covid Recovery” at the Angel Orensanz Foundation.

The COVID-19 pandemic has taken its toll on the fashion industry, particularly on brands specializing in tailoring and formal wear / formal wear. The designer managed to stay afloat during these difficult times and had to think outside the box to keep his head above water, finding ideas every day to keep his brands alive.

He has spent countless hours working on his new collection, and now is the time to share it with the world. He was delighted to present his “The after Covid Recovery 2022”, showing over 150 stunning luxurious designs embroidered with Swarovski crystals, pearls, pearls, furs and ostrich feathers.

The handmade collection took over 3 months to complete. Stylish style for men / boys. The collection was presented with beautifully enhanced makeup using exotic feathers. The show was a successful and starred event.

The designer is from Lebanon / Syria. Elie is the eldest of the four children of the Balleh family, he married the love of his life in January 2004, his family is growing very quickly, and today Elie and Mari have a beautiful big family. Her fabulous boys are seen in photoshoots, parades, and hang out with the rich and famous.

Elie is a self-taught professional. At the age of 6 he loved playing with sewing machines, growing up at 12 he was already able to deliver a total look, from the creation of the pattern to the making of a ready-to-wear piece. .

Appeared on numerous TV channels and featured in numerous NYFW RUNWAYS, Elie is a brand well recognized in the fashion industry for its quality, distinctive design and comfort.

Elie Balleh Brand is one of the leading trendsetters in the fashion industry. All of her designs, fabrics and styles come from the fashion capital, Milan, Italy. His styles are influential and progressive; he reinvents a modern approach to men’s fashion.

Elie has redefined luxury for the 21st century lifestyle brand. He is one of the original designers who started the “DADDY & ME” trend, followed by many other luxury designers. Its products represent the pinnacle of Italian craftsmanship and stand out for their quality and attention to detail. It is currently sold in many luxury department stores and in over 30 countries.



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Fashion brand

These Arab fashion brands are one to watch – Emirates Woman


September – ‘The Icon Issue’ – Download Now

Arab Fashion Council reveals new designers from the region who should be on your radar.

Autonomy

Autonomie is a new brand of women’s clothing created by Maha Ahmed. By focusing on the story of the individual, the brand aims to o er a playful, daring, contemporary and fresh aesthetic to the dynamic and innovative woman of today. Combining a spectrum of colors with vibrant prints, the collection features unique silhouettes that flaunt deconstructed and voluminous cuts.

EMERGENCY ROOM

Stemming from the belief that fashion production processes must urgently change, EMERGENCY ROOM uses a sustainable and ethical alternative to clothing design. The Lebanese label was launched by Eric Mathieu Ritter in 2018 in Beirut after an awareness of the state of fashion both urgent and emerging. EMERGENCY ROOM is a full-fledged clothing brand.

Ihab Jiryis

Palestinian designer Ihab Jiryis founded his eponymous fashion brand 12 years ago creating exquisite avant-garde designs. The fashion designer recently launched his couture collection on the Arab Fashion Week social calendar. Noticing that everyone wants their imaginations to come true, Ihab wanted to embody it in his sewing collection by visually drawing sketches and designs that brought these two realms together. The collection presents harmonically contradictory elements such as the exposition and the cover, completely different colors and a mixture of plain and embroidered fabrics.

Euphoria

The Emirati brand Euphoria, launched for the first time at the end of 2018, designs pieces with the modern woman in mind. The brand’s most recent collection, ‘Dolce Vita’, which translates to ‘The Good Life’, features a series of voluminous patterns and an optimistic color palette, believed to symbolize freedom and freedom. ‘hope.

MADA’EN

Founded by Jordanian-British ready-to-wear designer Farah Bseiso in 2016, MADA’EN is a label based on travel and immersion in different cultures. The designer recently launched her SS21 collection in Dubai during Arab Fashion Week at Green Planet in Dubai. The collection was inspired by the pandemic and the need to adapt to new and different environments. The collection presented a new vision of tailoring in an era where we appreciate more simplicity, dominated by geometric silhouettes, origami cuts and taffeta fabrics.

September – ‘The Icon Issue’ – Download Now

– For more on the luxury lifestyle, news, fashion and beauty, follow Emirates Woman on Facebook and Instagram

Images: Supplied



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French fashion

In the Hermès workshop which manufactures its iconic bags


There is a kind of fashion object so enduring, so tirelessly sought after that its name becomes recognizable, a metonym for the brand that made it: the Air Jordan, the Love bracelet. Few brands, however successful they are, reach this kind of saturation. Hermès has done it twice: the Birkin and, undoubtedly the first of the known phenomena, the Kelly. Originally designed in the 1930s as the Small tall bag, with strap, simplified, the Kelly was renamed after the newly crowned Princess Grace was pictured, in 1956, hugging her to hide her precocious pregnancy; the image appeared on the cover of Life magazine.

The Kelly, pictured here, consists of 36 pieces of leather and takes up to 20 hours for a craftsman to complete.Photograph by Cyril Zannettacci.

But in the workshops of Hermès craftsmen, the much-vaunted bag is not a waitlist status symbol, it is education: usually the first item built by newly minted leather craftsmen, it serves as leather goods 101 . “The Kelly bag is one of the most complex bags we have in terms of our know how, or know-how, which is really based on the tradition of saddlery and harnessing ”, specifies Olivier Fournier, Deputy Managing Director for Compliance and Organizational Development at Hermès International, in charge of the sustainable development of the company. With its crisp top flap, shoulder strap, and feminine single handle (the most easily spotted differentiating feature of the double-handle Birkin), it requires 36 pieces of leather, a handful of metal parts, and 15-20 hours for a craftsman to Completed. Mastery of Kelly means mastery of practically all other Hermès bag models.

Buckles and other hardware are attached by hand.Photograph by Cyril Zannettacci.
Photograph by Cyril Zannettacci.

Indeed, at Hermès, everything depends on a single point, tense and tense, with nearly 200 years of tradition. And if each dot represents a sentence from the history of Hermès, which began when German-born saddler Thierry Hermès founded the company in Paris in 1837, then his workshops are the grammar guiding their syntax. These workshops, 51 in number in France alone, each dedicated to women’s ready-to-wear, perfumes, shoes, jewelry, men’s clothing, silk or furniture, are spaces for the transmission and preservation of standards and techniques. .

Craftsmen spend 18 months learning the trade and spend 8 years working for the title of master craftsman.Photograph by Cyril Zannettacci.

This marriage of craftsmanship and heritage is perhaps nowhere more apparent than in the company’s brand new leather workshop, or leather goods, which opened last September in the bucolic village of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, on the outskirts of Bordeaux. Not far from the city center or the terroirs teeming with vines, a group of 180 artisans (a number which will increase to more than 250 once training and recruitment are completed) find themselves selecting, pruning, perfecting, browning and yes, sewing . – meters of soft leather in one of Hermès signature bags, all exclusively made in France. “Making a bag requires time and skill,” says Emilie, leather craftsman from Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, who joined Hermès in 2015. “There is a little bit of our soul in each bag.

The first Hermès leather goods workshop opened at the flagship store in Paris in 1880.PHOTOGRAPH BY CYRIL ZANNETTACCI.


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Fashion designer

Caravana ready for global growth with support from Cho Ventures


Mexican artisan brand Caravana, inspired by ancient Mayan culture, is aiming for global expansion with investment from Cho Ventures, the private investment firm founded by entrepreneur Tony Cho.

Caravana was launched in 2011 by Jacopo “Jack” Lanniello with a focus on ready-to-wear pieces, accessories and handmade lifestyle products using traditional techniques of weaving and hand-crafting. the hand. The neo-artisan business also reflects the culture it honors, with 70 percent of its employees being Mayans and women making up 70 percent of its management team.

In a statement, Caravana said Cho Ventures will help it become a “leading sustainable lifestyle brand”, expanding into new product categories, verticals and global markets, as well as helping the development of new strategic partnerships.

Tony Cho, founder of Cho Ventures, said in a statement: “Our investment goes beyond fueling Caravana’s strategic growth, as our values ​​align with the goal of having a positive impact; celebrate and promote indigenous cultures, rituals and women; and emphasizing the importance of sustainability.

“I have known Jack the founder of Caravana for many years and consider him a visionary. He sets the example that our investment strategy aims to amplify, and together we will make Caravana a benchmark brand for sustainable lifestyles.

Image: Courtesy of Caravana by Richard Stow

Cho Ventures invests in Caravana and participates in the launch of the new Prao brand with Marios Schwab

Jack Lanniello, Founder and Creative Director of Caravana, added: “Caravana is a lifestyle brand that caters to those looking for a more conscious approach to creating a future that benefits the individual, the collective and the community. planet itself through sustainability and recognition of culture and art. .

“Cho Ventures understands the need to protect the environment and the importance of cultural connectivity. Their support gives Caravana the ability to further develop our community on a global scale and improve the world around us. With Cho Ventures, our efforts continue to build a better future for the next generation and to inspire them to pursue a legacy of lasting living.

The investment also acts as a catalyst for Caravana to launch the new Prao brand, a fashion brand created by Lanniello and fashion designer Marios Schwab to capture the spirit of modern Greece in collaboration with Noema, a new restaurant and bar in the old town of Mykonos.

Image: Courtesy of Caravana by Richard Stow

2021 has been described as a “definitive” year for Caravana, with new store openings in Miami, Ibiza, St Tropez and Bodrum. She also developed a Bazaar retail concept with her partner Scorpios in Mykonos. The Scorpios Bazaar now features a 3,000 square foot Berber tent that showcases a selection of artisan brands sharing the same core values ​​of ancient craftsmanship and sustainability. Caravana is also available at over 55 retailers, including Bergdorf Goodman, Net-A-Porter, Farfetch and its own online store.

In addition, the investment made possible through the Cho Ventures Qualified Opportunities Fund (QOF) will also allow Caravana to open its US headquarters in the Little Haiti community of Miami. They will join other companies in the Cho Ventures portfolio in a new state-of-the-art office location being renovated and scheduled to open in Q2 2022 in a Qualified Opportunity Zone, a program of US government push to revitalize underserved communities by creating jobs. and economic development.

Financial details of the investment were not disclosed.

Cho Ventures is the family office arm of Tony and Ximena Cho, focusing on strategic venture capital investments in the areas of sustainable technology, conscious fashion, impact hospitality, health and wellness. be, and other value-aligned investment opportunities.

Image: Courtesy of Caravana by Richard Stow
Image: Courtesy of Caravana by Richard Stow


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French fashion

Chinese fashion designer Guo Pei to be celebrated at exhibition in San Francisco in 2022


“Elysium” by Guo Pei, from his spring-summer 2018 collection. Photo: Photograph by Lian Xu, courtesy of the artist. Image courtesy of San Francisco Art Museums.

Guo Pei, the internationally renowned fashion designer known as China’s “Couture Queen”, will be celebrated in a new exhibition at the opening of the Legion of Honor in the spring, the museum said.

The show, “Guo Pei: Couture Fantasy”, will run from April 16 to September 5, 2022 and will focus on the specialized craft techniques used in the construction of Pei’s elaborate creations and the role that Chinese culture and traditional art play play in the creation of its track. collections.

“As a creator and artist, there is no greater honor or privilege than sharing my creativity with a wider audience,” Guo said in a statement to The Chronicle. “I am therefore honored and touched that the prestigious Legion of Honor museum presents a retrospective of my work. … I hope… that through the art of tailoring and the universal language of art, it will foster intercultural appreciation, connections and ideas.

Guo, 54, established his fashion house in China in 1997 after working for Chinese ready-to-wear brands. Jill D’Alessandro, the costume and textile arts curator for the San Francisco Fine Arts Museums (which includes the de Young and the Legion of Honor), is hosting the exhibit. celebrities, including singer Song Zuying and actor Zhang Ziyi, and has been featured at national media events such as the New Year’s Eve celebrations and the 2008 Summer Olympics in Beijing.

Rihanna arrives in a Guo Pei dress at the 2015 Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Benefit Gala celebrating “China: Through the Looking Glass.” Photo: Charles Sykes / Charles Sykes / Invision / AP

“It’s a wide range of jobs with a really unique vision,” says D’Alessandro. “She uses exquisite craftsmanship and unconventional sewing techniques drawn from her Chinese heritage and traditional textiles. She combines this interest in world culture and European culture with the fact of being a true craftswoman.

Many westerners discovered Guo’s work at the 2015 Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute Gala, when pop superstar Rihanna wore a gold beaded gown with meters of train circling her on the red carpet (the piece will not be part of the exhibition). A voluminous gold lamé dress by Guo was also among her pieces on display in the “China: Through the Looking Glass” costume exhibition at the museum in the same year. The Director and CEO of the San Francisco Fine Arts Museums, Thomas Campbell, was then Director of the Metropolitan Museum.

“We are especially excited to present the groundbreaking work of Guo Pei, who merges China’s imperial past with the present, using traditional embroidery techniques in his exquisite designs that transcend art and fashion,” said Campbell. .

“Alternate Universe” by Guo Pei, from his fall-winter 2019-20 collection. Photo: Photograph by Lian Xu, courtesy of the artist. Image courtesy of San Francisco Art Museums

Campbell said San Francisco, with its vast Chinese heritage and setting on the edge of the Pacific, is a “natural location for the premiere of the first major museum exhibition on the work of Guo Pei.”

In 2015, Guo also became the first Asian-born and raised designer to be invited to become a guest member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture in Paris, the organization that governs the traditional French haute couture fashion weeks. In 2016, Time ranked her among the 100 most influential people in the world.

Guo’s dedication to detail and craftsmanship is well known in the fashion industry. Collections can take over two years and cost up to $ 3 million. Dresses can cost tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars, sometimes constructed with precious materials including 24k gold wire, pearls, glow-in-the-dark fabric, and crystals. They can also weigh almost as much as the models wearing them.

The exhibit will consist of a series of gallery rooms on the lower level of the Legion devoted to themes from Guo’s collections, including architecture, embroidery, flowers and fantastic creations. In the permanent decorative arts collections, Guo’s work will be brought into conversation with various objects and installations from period rooms.

D’Alessandro says that for Guo, the creation of this show in the United States at a time when the issue of violence against Asian Americans is at the forefront seems timely.

“She said, ‘I realized how important this exhibition is now because art brings us together. I want the beauty and joy of my work to bring us together.

“Guo Pei: couture fantasy”: 9.30am-5.15pm Tuesday to Sunday. April 16-Sept. 6, 2022. $ 15- $ 30. Legion of Honor, Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave., SF 415-750-3600. www.famsf.org

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Fashion style

Phoebe Philo is launching a fashion brand – here’s what we know so far


Former Celine fans, you might want to sit down: Phoebe Philo is finally back in fashion.

According to Fashion business, the British designer will launch her own fashion brand with LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

Philo’s upcoming eponymous fashion brand will offer clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design”. In other words, it will be very much in tune with the design language she cultivated at Céline, the French luxury brand owned by LVMH, where she was Creative Director for 10 years before stepping down in 2017 to be focus on his family.

At C̩line, Philo made his mark with clothes for women that are at the same time intelligent, chic and sexy. She also designed a line of successful handbags, such as Cabas, which were functional and luxurious Рyet subtle, when it comes to designer leather goods, with no obvious branding. (The bags are still available at C̩line today.)

Philo’s decidedly modern and minimalist fashion has earned him a group of dedicated followers known as Philophiles, and his influence continues to be felt in other fashion brands such as The Row and Peter Do. Most notably, after Philo left Celine, her fashion followers turned to Bottega Veneta, now led by designer Daniel Lee who had previously worked with her as Celine’s director of ready-to-wear.

(Photo credit: Michel Dufour / WireImage)

In 2020, there were rumors that Philo would make a comeback in the fashion world with his own fashion label. Philo’s eponymous label had been under construction since leaving Chloé, where she held the position of artistic director from 2001 to 2006 before joining Céline. In February of last year, it was reported that she had assembled a team of designers for her brand.

This year, the British designer also made a semi-return to the ANDAM Awards 2021. Philo was a guest judge for the prestigious French Fashion Award, alongside Lisa of Blackpink and fashion photographer Juergen Teller, who shot a handful of memorable campaigns for Celine during her tenure.

Now it’s clear Philo is back for good. In a statement to Business of Fashion, the designer said, “Being in my studio and creating again has been both exciting and incredibly rewarding. I can’t wait to reconnect with my audience and people around the world. Being independent, governing and experimenting on my own terms is extremely important to me. “

There is no official launch date for the Phoebe Philo brand yet, but you can expect more details in January 2022.

Header photo credit: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff / Getty Images



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Fashion brand

Top 10 luxury fashion brands for men

All men who care about fit, fabric and look are looking for brands that meet their specific needs and pay immaculate attention to detail and the finest things to create the right wardrobe and statement. Here are some brands that have a rich heritage of special knowledge in men’s fashion.

Photo courtesy of Ralph Lauren

1. Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren is the equivalent of men’s haute couture. Founded in 1967 by American fashion designer Ralph Rueben Lifshitz, also known as Ralph Lauren, the luxury brand began making ties for men. The brand is also behind the iconic “Polo” design, the brand’s first complete line of men’s clothing. Today, Ralph lauren is a global luxury fashion brand that creates exceptional clothing for men and women.

Brunello Cucinelli, Top 10 luxury fashion brands for men
Photo courtesy of Brunello Cucinelli

2. Brunello Cucinelli

Luxury is handmade, and at Brunello Cucinelli, each product is handmade. Italian men’s clothing designer Brunello Cucinelli calls the look championed by his eponymous brand “Sportivo chic”. The brand is known for its unparalleled craftsmanship and specially selected materials. Considering the exquisite materials, craftsmanship and passion that go into every room, Brunello Cucinelli products are known to be expensive.

Rolex Submariner, Top 10 luxury fashion brands for men

3. Rolex

Rolex is considered the gateway to luxury watches, and we believe it is a staple in every man’s collection. The Swiss luxury watchmaker has been making exquisite watches since 1915 and the Rolex Submariner is considered one of the brand’s most iconic creations.

Giorgio Armani, Top 10 luxury fashion brands for men
Photo courtesy of Giorgio Armani

4. Giorgio Armani

If you are looking for an exquisite high-end suit, Giorgio Armani should be your brand. Renowned for its impeccable tailoring, Italian luxury fashion house Giorgio Armani offers ready-to-wear, leather goods, shoes, watches, jewelry, accessories, eyewear, cosmetics and interiors. The designer is known for his fresh yet luxurious approach to fashion. The brand’s luxury craftsmanship and materials make the Armani legacy a world-class and world-renowned legacy.

Paul Smith, Top 10 Luxury Menswear Brands
Photo courtesy of Paul Smith

Another important brand in the world of high-end men’s suit is Paul Smith. Particularly famous in the UK, the brand uses specially selected materials that make their costumes stand out from the crowd. Since its creation in 1970, the “classic with a touch” has remained the guiding principle of the company. A dry British sense of humor underlies every conception of Paul Smith: eccentric but not frivolous, eccentric but not silly. The fabrics, colors and designs of these costumes are a masterpiece creation that makes you feel ready to take on the world!

The Timberland Company, Top 10 Luxury Menswear Brands
Photo courtesy of The Timberland Company

Sixth on our list is the American brand that produces the best outdoor shoes with the best materials. The Timberland Company, often known as “Timbs”, was founded in 1952 by Nathan Swartz. Some other men’s fashion items that you will find here are watches, clothing, leather clothes, sunglasses, etc. The company firmly believes in eco-innovation to reduce the impact on the environment. They also plan to create a net positive impact by 2030. Thus, all of their products use responsible materials and leather from regenerating ranches, reliable natural rubber or 100% recycled materials.

Bally, Top 10 Luxury Menswear Brands
Courtesy of Bally

Bally is a Swiss company specializing in men’s fashion items. Carl Franz Bally founded the company in 1851, and the company honors its timeless traditions, believing that quality speaks for itself. One of the most iconic designs, the Scribe Novo formal men’s outfit, created by Carl Franz Bally’s grandson Max Bally to celebrate the brand’s 100th anniversary in 1951, is still handcrafted in Switzerland. , taking 240 craft techniques to complete. Bally is also renowned for its luxurious travel luggage.

Courtesy of Salvatore Ferragamo

8. Salvatore Ferragamo

Synonymous with craftsmanship, Italian luxury fashion brand Salvatore Ferragamo started its journey as a shoe company. They currently specialize in footwear, leather goods, Swiss-made watches and ready-to-wear for men and women. The company produces the finest footwear and has made a significant contribution to the fashion industry with notable innovations such as the wedge heel, shell-shaped sole, ‘invisible’ sandal, heels and soles. metal, the 18-karat gold sandal, the sock-shoes, sculpture heels, and many more.

Ermenegildo Zegna, Top 10 luxury fashion brands for men
Photo courtesy of Ermenegildo Zegna

9. Ermenegildo Zegna

If you like rich and luxurious textiles, Ermenegildo Zegna is the brand for you. The Italian luxury fashion house initially focused on fabrics and wools, but after taking over Ermenegildo Zegna’s threads in the mid-1960s, the company branched out into men’s suits. Today, Zegna is synonymous with impeccable tailoring combined with premium fabrics.

Berluti, Top 10 Luxury Men's Fashion Brands
Courtesy of Berluti

10. Berluti

Berluti is renowned for its unique leather finishes and craftsmanship of its products. The French luxury brand uses a rich and individual patina for each pair of Berluti shoes. The leather they use has a unique character and is treated to take on deep and complex colors. For this reason, no two pairs are the same, which makes Berluti still memorable.

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