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VOTE: Franco-Filipino fashion designer Anthony Alvarez reaches the semi-finals of the LVMH Prize

Lifestyle Inquirer December cover star Anthony Alvarez and his brand BLUEMARBLE are up for fashion’s highest honours: the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers

As a semi-finalist, Alvarez is one of 20 emerging talents chosen to present their creations at the showroom at LVMH’s Paris headquarters. In this stage of the award, around 70 international experts determine who will reach the final.

A online voting, open to the public, is also used to determine the finalists. This year, voting is open until tomorrow Wednesday, March 9.

After the announcement of the finalists, a jury of the most important names in fashion then chooses the final winner. At previous awards, the jury included the legend, Karl Lagerfeld. For the 2021 prize, the jury was made up of designers like the late Virgil Abloh, Jonathan Andersen, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Marc Jacobs, Kim Jones and Stella McCartney. They were joined by Executive Vice President of Louis Vuitton Delphine Arnault, adviser to Bernard Arnault and Director of Patronage at LVMH Jean-Paul Claverie, and Chairman and CEO of LVMH Fashion Group Sidney Toledano.

If Alvarez wins, he will receive a one-year mentorship and endowment from LVMH. This support adapted to the vision of their brand is offered through a rich pool of resources via teams of LVMH mentors in fields as varied as sustainable development and the legal aspects of the company. He will also be the first mixed Filipino designer to receive this honor.

Since 2013, the LVMH Prize has launched the careers of today’s trendiest names such as Marinne Serre, Jacquemus, Marques’ Almeida and Hood by Air.

BLUE MARBLE is a menswear brand founded in 2019. In Alvarez’s designs, you glean his curiosity for world cultures. It explains how our differences as people are all interconnected. He fuses different influences like streetwear, skate culture and travel in his designs. Last year, Alvarez paid homage to Siargao for its Spring/Summer collection.

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French fashion

Children of famous fashion brands go their own way

MILAN — When Alice Etro was a little girl, she used to spend hours after school with her father, Kean Etro, creative director of Etro menswear, playing with fabric swatches in the design studio of the fashion brand in which his grandfather Gimmo started. 1968. She creates clothes from scraps for her dolls and plays with the tubes of rolls of fabric.

“I loved everything,” she said. She remembers the thrill of watching a parade and walking alone with her parents. “I wanted to be him,” she added, of her designer dad. She was expected to follow in his footsteps and join the family business, just as he and his three siblings had followed their parents. As, indeed, has been the norm among many Italian fashion dynasties.

There is an expression in Italian – “capitalismo familiare” or family capitalism – which refers to the transmission of a private enterprise from one generation to the next, said Matteo Persivale, special correspondent for the Corriere della Sera newspaper. For decades, this has been the rule in fashion where brand stewardship has been passed down like a well-guarded saffron risotto recipe or a chalet in Cortina.

Angela, Luca and Vittorio Missoni took over from their parents, Rosita and Ottavio, the founders of Missoni, for example. Silvia Fendi is a third-generation Fendi, working in the company her grandparents Adele and Edoardo founded in 1925 (and her daughter, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, is now artistic director of jewelry). James Ferragamo, third-generation descendant of Salvatore Ferragamo, the founder of Ferragamo, is director of brand, product and communications for the family business. And one of the fourth generation of Zegna, Edoardo Zegna, is in the running to take over the brand, created in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Entering the family business was such a common practice, says Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of Emilio Pucci, that even when she worked for Hubert de Givenchy in the late 1980s in Paris, he always told her: “Soon you will come back home to take over your father’s business. She did, in 1989, and described the concept of taking on the mantle of the family business as “quite normal and organic.”

But a combination of the globalization of luxury, which has led many family businesses to sell stakes to conglomerates or become publicly traded entities to survive, and the blurring of lines between all creative disciplines, has changed the narrative.

Increasingly, the next generation of big luxury families – often referred to as “figli d’arte”, a term referring to a child who inherits a parent’s profession, usually in the arts – is looking ahead. beyond the ancestral parapet, applying what she learned while growing up in one creative sector to work in another.

Ms. Etro, for example, 34, studied fashion design at Istituto Marangoni, one of Milan’s leading fashion schools, and spent around 10 years at another family sewing and textile company, Larusmiani. (where his uncle Guglielmo Miani is general manager).

But in 2019, rather than joining Etro as she had imagined, Ms Etro became the creative director of Westwing Italia, one of 11 national sites operated by a European interiors e-commerce retailer specializing in daily newsletters. offering a world of shopping. household items, from bed linen to dishes.

“I prefer mass over niche,” Ms. Etro said. “Luxury should be for everyone. It doesn’t have to be expensive and out of reach. Her family has been supportive of her decision to branch out, she continued, noting that these are times like the time she spent as a child in her grandmother Ghighi Miani’s atmospheric Milanese home, with its maximalist interiors, who ultimately perhaps inspired her the most.

Alessandro Marinella, 27, a fourth-generation member of the family that founded E. Marinella, the Neapolitan company known for making printed silk ties dear to President Barack Obama, is not only helping the brand grow in the field digital, but focuses on something he considers just as ingrained in the tradition of luxury as ties: food.

In 2019, Mr. Marinella co-founded Marchio Verificato, which produces, certifies and supplies Italian specialty foods. The company not only distributes some of the best Italian produce to shops and restaurants, but grows crops in the traditional way: for example, its Vesuvio Piennolo tomatoes are grown in volcanic soil, then strung on hemp threads, tied in circles and kept dry for months. .

“Eating well is important,” Mr. Marinella said, “but where and how also denotes a kind of social status.”

Technology too, according to Francesca Versace, 39, daughter of Santo Versace, brother of Donatella and founder of the Gianni brand. As a result, she traded her ready-to-wear birthright for the chance to start an NFT business.

“My love for fashion will never diminish; it’s in my heart,” she said of her family’s accomplishments. But she thinks the zeitgeist has changed.

“My gut tells me it’s time to move to the new space,” she said, referring to the metaverse. “It’s more of a cultural change than a technological one.

Later this spring, she and her partners plan to unveil Public Pressure, an NFT marketplace with an in-house NFT creative studio to help musicians, brands, and movie studios conceptualize NFT campaigns. The company – founded by Ms. Versace; Giulia Maresca, former designer of Christian Louboutin and Tod’s; Sergio Mottola, a blockchain entrepreneur; and music industry insider Alfredo Violante — is destined, Ms. Versace said, to recreate the Versace razzmatazz she remembers from her family’s fashion shows, but in the digital space.

Likewise, Larissa Castellano Pucci, 34, daughter of Laudomia and granddaughter of Emilio, thinks the future is virtual. She studied information science at Cornell University and worked as a 3D artist for Satore Studio, a creative company in London, rather than going into the family brand (which, anyway, was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2000). And in January, Ms. Pucci released her first collection on DressX, a digital-only clothing retail platform.

Called Marea, the collection included garments that shimmer like fish scales, seaweed-like billowing hems, and dresses produced from tiny digital seashells. It is now set to be part of Crypto Fashion Week, a week-long event in March dedicated to blockchain-powered digital fashion.

“It’s rare for someone so junior to have creative carte blanche,” Ms. Pucci said of the appeal of working with DressX, rather than a traditional atelier. In the real world, “it’s almost impossible to create something completely new as a young designer” because costs and small production runs hold you back.

This spring, FouLara, Ms. Pucci’s scarf brand, plans to launch an NFT minting service to allow users to design and mint custom NFT prints.

Laudomia Pucci said she was thrilled Larissa was trying something that resonated with her and her generation – and she thinks Emilio Pucci would have looked on with affection too. “It’s necessary in Italy,” she said. “We have to look to the future, not just to our great past.”

Her daughter agreed. “If you come from a background that has so many things, you follow in the footsteps or try to forge your own identity,” Ms. Pucci said. “Otherwise, it is abusive. I can only re-imagine my legacy; I can’t escape it.

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Fashion brand

Top 5 Rules of a Successful Fashion Buy for Growing Your Brand

There is buying, then there is buying for growth. Michaela Wessels, CEO and Co-Founder of Style Arcade, explains how to build a robust buying strategy that supports your winners and really moves the needle.

1. Prioritize your quantities

Business growth and expansion relies on creating a tiered buying strategy, where you use different levels of depth per option. When most fashion companies first enter the market, there is no historical data to base their decisions on, so they often allocate the same number of units to each style.

This practice is very restrictive, because as a general rule: 20% of the styles will make 80% of your sales. If you launch with 100 styles, by the time you hit the six-week mark, you’ll find the 20 styles that made 80% of your sales.

Understand your sell rate

To understand your weekly sales rate (WROS), calculate how many units of a product you sell on average per week. From there, simply add 20-30% to your average sell rate to estimate your upper threshold, and minus 20-30% to determine your lower threshold.

For example, if these top styles start moving 40 units per week and selling out in two weeks, you can simply adjust your high, medium, and low quantities for the following season, based on your new sell rate.

The 80/20 rule

Better known as the Pareto principle in different industries, in fashion buying and merchandising, 80% of your sales are made up of 20% of your styles.

Focus on your 20 percent

Suppose you buy 500 styles per month, choose 100 that will bring you the most sales. Once you’ve convinced your team with your data learnings, support those styles with depth.

How to identify bestsellers

Your historical performance should help identify a number of models, including the silhouette your customers love and want more of.

Once you’ve identified your most popular shapes and chosen your best sellers for your next season, you can simply take the historical attributes and rework them based on their past performance.

Determine the price

There is an upper, middle and lower price for each collection. To get the most out of your top 20% selling styles, you need to find a sweet spot for your customers. Understanding your pricing strategy and determining the median price they’ll be happy to part with for the styles they really want means you can allocate larger volumes where it hits and cover your margins.

3. Extend your waistline

Extending size runs can create growth. If you look at your ratio and the final sizes represent more than 15% of the total sales, then you have the option of adding a fringe size.

To test this, be sure to look at commonalities in silhouettes and colors where you want to introduce the fringe size. While all styles sold in size 14 are color-blocked, the future range indicates that a size 16 is required. Along the same lines, if size 6 primarily sells floral prints, there is an indication that you should expand to 4, but there is no indication to expand to 16.

A Style Arcade brand showed that 28% of sales in a particular category came from XS. On the team’s next purchase, they added an XXS, opening the door for them to $1.1 million a year in revenue.

4. Determine which styles are never out of stock

Fashion merchandising best practices involve constantly keeping an eye on identifying your star products. Most of the fashion brands we work with have a 20% share of styles that live all year round and dampen their bottom line.

Even the biggest premium brands have their flagships; think of Louis Vuitton’s Neverfull tote or the Gucci Marmont belt. The great thing about being online is that you can hide 40,000 Gucci belts behind a little placeholder image, the image that helps with an 80% conversion rate.

5. Proactive Markdowns

Clear as You Go (CAYG) is a retail price reduction strategy that involves recognizing slow moves after six weeks and discounting them early. Shopbop is famous for having discounts on the new arrivals page because they know the value of clearing inventory early. Cut back when it will actually move the needle and don’t be afraid to avoid aging stock.

This strategy will save you less, save your business margin and free up cash flow. It really is a win-win.

Full article originally posted on stylearcade.com. For more retail news like this, sign up to Style Arcade’s blog today.

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Fashion designer

Nino Cerruti gave elegance a good reputation

Elegance, said Nino Cerruti, got on his nerves. It was the kind of remark you can afford to make when you’re easily the most elegant man in the room. And Mr. Cerruti, who died last month at the age of 91, embodied that attribute, a quality rarely encountered but undeniable when you are in his presence.

“It can be learned, but you have to have a natural disposition for it,” he said in a interview at L’Officiel USA last year.

Although sartorial elegance is an instinct, as Mr. Cerruti suggested, it can be anatomized. It stems from knowing yourself and staying true to yourself; to ruthlessly assess physical flaws and strengths in order to understand the effect of your body moving through space. It depends, to some extent, on learning the basics of dress-up before throwing it.

As we enter the third year of a still, mostly pandemic, sitting at home in our relaxed duds, it might seem that having an aptitude for elegance is as useful as knowing how to prune a bonsai tree.

Yet, as recent menswear and couture shows across Europe suggest, a stylish mirage looms on the horizon. Designers, experts and consumers are looking for reasons to dress up again – regularly and in public. By this one, we don’t mean for Instagram selfies or red-letter events like, say, the Met Gala, which has come to look like the fashion version of Comic Con.

On the catwalks and showrooms of Milan and Paris, brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Tod’s represented individual visions of clothing that nodded obliquely at Mr. Cerruti, who insiders know he laid the foundations of a post-war Italian ready-to-wear industry that produced Italian clothing. elegance a global identity.

“I’m very drawn to this idea of ​​chic,” Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi said last month in Milan after previewing a beautiful capsule collection of reworked classics that could have been hacked into wardrobes. of a certain type of Italian. of a particular pedigree – someone like Nino Cerruti. “These northern Italians traditionally had that quality,” Mr. Chiapponi said. ” It is a question of culture.

The poster of this form of chic was by reflex Gianni Agnelli, the industrialist and heir to Fiat. Mr. Agnelli, however, was a showboat, partly a creation of a post-war tabloid culture fascinated by the doings of a newly minted cosmopolitan jet set.

The contrast between the two men is also instructive. Where Mr. Agnelli’s signatures (knotted-shoulder sweaters, denim skiwear, soft-soled driving shoes, ties tucked into waistbands, wristwatches worn on a shirt cuff) came together as expressions of sprezzatura, an overused term for elegance thrown wide, Mr. Cerruti’s was more authentic and relaxed. He dressed so as not to be noticed. Yet when you were with him, you wondered why he looked so much better than anyone else in sight.

“He was the most stylish man I’ve ever met,” said Emanuele Farneti, fashion and style editor at Italian daily La Repubblica. “He was the symbol of a certain elegance specific to regions and generations, such as Milan and Turin. It’s a kind of chic that’s the opposite of showing off.

In a sense, Mr Farneti said, it’s no surprise that Cerruti “discovered Armani”, whom the older man spotted as a relative stranger employed at the La Rinascente department store and hired to design menswear. for his Hitman label. In his 50-year career, Giorgio Armani has rarely strayed from a calm basic aesthetic. When critics criticize the apparent monotony of his work, they also tend to overlook his early innovations.

More than any other designer, Mr. Armani can be credited with popularizing the deconstructed suit. And, intentionally or not, contemporary designers like Jerry Lorenzo at Fear of God or Mike Amiri at Amiri nod to his legacy with each new collection of their high-end streetwear. Mr. Armani did not “invent” deconstruction, however. If anyone, Nino Cerruti did it. “He was the trailblazer,” said Nick Sullivan, Esquire’s creative director.

Coming from a family of industrialists whose Lanificio Cerruti woolen mills were founded in 1881 in the northern town of Biella, Mr. Cerruti was the first to notice the potential to diversify from fabric manufacturing to tailoring. “With Walter Albini, he was the forerunner of what became Italian ready-to-wear,” Sullivan said. “He was a rock star in the late 60s.”

Among the innovations Mr. Cerruti pioneered were wetsuits stripped of their rigid interior structures. “He was among the first to deconstruct the jacket,” said Angelo Flaccavento, an Italian style writer.

Unlike the soft Neapolitan shirt tailoring popular since the 1920s, when upper-class Englishmen sent their tailors to Naples to copy local techniques, Mr. Cerruti retained the structure of his suits while relaxing them. The simple decision to remove linen, flannel, horsehair and other basic elements from traditional suits ultimately affected the course of modern menswear.

Mr. Cerruti was a pioneer in many other ways. In the early days of the asexual fashion concept, which he called “couples’ clothing,” he also regularly dressed celebrities, including Anita Ekberg, Jean-Paul Belmondo, and Harrison Ford, and not because his publicists stalked them for lucrative endorsements. Many of his star customers, he says, “came as customers of my Paris boutique.”

Curiously, given that he has provided clothing for countless films, his cinematic contribution has generally gone unrecognized. “So many things that people think Armani was in the movies were Cerruti,” designer Umit Benan noted last week by phone from Milan.

Although it was costume designer Marilyn Vance who chose the ‘Pretty Woman’ wardrobe, it was her choice of the Cerruti costume that dignified the millionaire played by Richard Gere and gave an enduring elegance to an essentially generic character. .

Cerruti designs have appeared in films as disparate as “Wall Street” and “The Silence of the Lambs” and have been worn by generations of fashionable men. Yet no one has ever managed to look as stylish as the designer himself. There were her sorbet-colored sweaters draped (but not tied) over the shoulders. There were her quirky polka dot green socks worn with gray flannel pants. There were his pinstriped shirts invariably worn over a dark T-shirt and under a tweed jacket, with no tie. There were his Yohji Yamamoto sneakers and the sewing tricks that few experts could detect.

“He was very aware of his body and his figure and how to work with it,” Flaccavento said.

Tall and lanky, Mr. Cerruti was long in the chest and dressed in a way that minimized the flaws in his figure. “In my mind, I see him in a soft suit, usually gray, with an open-necked shirt with a contrasting dark T-shirt underneath,” said Peter Speliopoulos, former creative director of DKNY and who was one of the many talents. (Véronique Nichanian of Hermès and Narciso Rodriguez were others) spotted or hired early on by Mr. Cerruti.

“He belted his high pants, wore a well-worn leather belt, to accentuate his waist – or give the illusion of really long legs,” Mr Speliopoulos said.

Until the end, he smoked like a fiend and lit his cigarettes with matches, somehow lending an element of chic even to this habit. “He was devilishly elegant,” said Mr. Flaccavento, who in 2015 organized an exhibition at Florence’s Museo Marino Marini of clothes from Mr. Cerruti’s personal wardrobe – he rarely threw anything away – which included suits, jackets, pants, evening wear. and capes tracing the evolution of Italian menswear through six decades.

Among the most fascinating items on display in this exhibit was a moth-ventilated frayed woolen jacket. Humble as he was, there was elegance in the designer’s shameless decision to not just keep an old garment, but to display it as representative of himself.

“I kept it for a simple reason,” Mr. Cerruti told that reporter at the time. “I’ve always loved this fabric.”

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Fashion brand

All signs point to a great year ahead of Aimé Leon Dore

Drop by for a coffee, huh?
Credit: Robert K. Chin/Alamy Stock Photo

This morning, LVMH Luxury Ventures, an investment arm of the French megaconglomerate that owns Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Marc Jacobs and Dior, announced an investment in Aimé Leon Dore, the New York-based menswear brand that has seen the success in recent years. . (Just try to enter his Mulberry Street store without waiting.)

Teddy Santis, the Queens-born Greek-American designer behind the label, is, unlike many of his press-hungry counterparts, a relative figure in the menswear landscape. Since the founding of Aimé Léon Doré (Love comes from the French word for to like; Leon was his father’s childhood nickname; and Dore=Theodore=Teddy) in 2014, following an initial nudge from Kith’s Ronnie Fieg, Santis built his line quickly but quietly with a handful of clear references, a few nods to preparation via hip- hop (Vintage Polo, Tommy Hilfiger), and a reluctance to explain too much. “I really don’t know anything about him,” a fellow designer told me. He’s given scattered interviews here and there, but the “About Me” section of ALD’s website only links to Nas’s. Illmatic for more information.”

Yet a cult has blossomed. Santis opened the store on Mulberry Street in 2019, and queues quickly followed, but if you have to wait outside, you can at least do it with Greek-influenced coffee knocked down and koulourakia. QG called it the best menswear store of 2021. Fellow designer Todd Snyder, one of the standard bearers of the latest prep revival at J.Crew and now the steward of his own eponymous brand, has told the magazine the previous year, “He built an empire right under our noses, and he did it his way.

When customers notice, the powers that be notice too. This year should be important for Santis and ALD. It will see the launch of a full new American-made line for New Balance, which Santis has partnered with on versions of its sneakers, including the 550 (“the sneaker that would define 2021,” according to QG) and, more recently, a 993; details so far are scarce, but New Balance says more are on the way. LVMH Luxury Ventures tends to favor companies with growth opportunities, but leaves them more freedom to work on their own terms; he also invested in Gabriela Hearst and footwear retailer Stadium Goods (since acquired by Farfetch). ALD will continue to operate independently in New York, reports Business of Fashion. And quietly too. Messages to ALD were not returned by press time.

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Fashion designer

5 fashion and beauty women we loved in 2021, Lifestyle News


These women, from generation to generation and from different parts of the world, have captured our attention in 2021.

From the founder of a start-up celebrating the legacy of jade jewelry to an acclaimed British fashion designer who seems destined for even bigger things, read on to find inspiring stories from five inspiring women of substance.

Jade jewelry for the 21st century: The story of the start-up Ren

Crystal Ung knew the history of her grandfather’s lucky jade ring and was drawn to jewelry made with this gemstone, but found it old-fashioned. The successful entrepreneur founded Ren to make jade jewelry with contemporary appeal. The anti-Asian racism unleashed by Covid-19 made it personal. Read more.

The British designer worn by Meghan Markle, supervised by LVMH

Grace Wales Bonner graduated from Central Saint Martins in London and founded her namesake menswear brand in 2014. When she won the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers a year later, Delphine Arnault of Louis Vuitton said that “the jury thinks she has great potential in women’s fashion.” .

The Londoner dove into women’s fashion in 2018, and a year later Meghan Markle wore Wales Bonner for baby Archie’s debut. Subtle and timeless are the words used to describe her designs, and Wales Bonner says: “Working with tailoring is like having a conversation with history. ”

READ ALSO: Souvenir of Virgil Abloh: the highlights of his tenure at Louis Vuitton

Traditional Chinese medicine brought the healer closer to her culture

Taiwan-born Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) practitioner Debbie Kung spent her childhood in the United States trying to fit in with her friends and “didn’t think much about being Asian.”

She discovered Chinese medicine while working with fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg – acupuncture made her glow and put her on a different path in life. She received a Masters Degree in Acupuncture in Austin, Texas, where she has a thriving TCM practice.

Fashion legend Mimi Tang on Gucci’s success story in Asia

In addition to the murder, House of Gucci, Ridley Scott’s opera flick about the Gucci family and his fashion brand depicts the ousting of legendary designer Tom Ford and CEO Domenico De Sole after their successful turnaround from the luxury brand Italian in the 1990s. They couldn’t have done it without Mimi Tang, who joined Gucci in 1998 and became its Asia-Pacific manager.

Fashion legend Tang recalled in an interview with the Post that Ford has an irresistible charm and that De Sole is a rare CEO who respects local management. And she revealed that one particular scene in House of Gucci rings very true to her.

Why Susie Bubble only dresses for herself, never for boys

In her secondary school yearbook in London, Susanna Lau was voted “more likely to be… the next Donna Karan”. As a teenager, she admits that she “never really had the idea of ​​dressing to attract the opposite sex”. She always saw fashion as a hobby, even after starting her blog, Style Bubble, which introduced her to fashion journalism.

Against all odds, the mother-of-one, better known as Susie Bubble, recently opened a bubble tea café in London with a friend from Hong Kong.

This article first appeared in South China Morning Post.


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French fashion

Stella McCartney Gets a Pay Raise While Fashion Company Takes Cash Vacation | Stella mccartney


Stella McCartney received a salary of almost £ 2.7million from her fashion business last year, up more than £ 220,000 from the previous year, while the company claimed nearly £ 850,000 under the government leave program.

The creator’s salary rose despite a 26% drop in sales to £ 28.4million in the year through December 31, 2020, with UK sales more than halving, while the company recorded a pre-tax loss of £ 31.4million, according to the accounts. for Stella McCartney Limited filed at Companies House. The group recorded a pre-tax loss of £ 33.4 million the previous year.

The accounts show that McCartney’s label, in which she sold a minority stake to French luxury goods conglomerate LVMH in 2019, said it was dependent on additional funds provided by its new shareholder in order to stay in business.

LVMH, which owns a series of high-end brands including Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior and Givenchy, had already granted additional loans of £ 26.3million last year, bringing its total loans to the group to just over £ 66million.

Stella McCartney Limited said the directors of Anin Star Holding, LVMH’s investment vehicle, had “indicated their intention to continue to make such funds available to the company”, but there was no certainty that support would continue.

The London-based fashion company, which prides itself on its environmental and ethical credentials, said its target for 2021 was to increase sales by 4% and “significantly reduce” losses. However, the business is likely to have continued to be affected by further street closures and limits on socialization imposed during the Covid-19 pandemic.

LVMH bought the label from McCartney in 2019, just over a year after ending its 17-year business partnership with rival conglomerate Kering, and bought back its 50% stake in its brand.

McCartney, the daughter of former Beatle Sir Paul and late photographer and animal rights activist Linda, designed her first jacket as a teenager. After professional experience at Christian Lacroix, she became Creative Director of the Parisian fashion house Chloé, before creating her own brand in a joint venture with Kering, owner of Gucci, in 2001.

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A spokesperson for Stella McCartney Limited said: “During the lockdown, senior management, including Stella, suffered a pay cut. The 2020 accounts relate to a year of transition and the effects of the pandemic on the distribution sector, but given these challenges, brand sales have remained strong.

“Like all companies in our sector, we are currently going through one of the most difficult periods in a generation and are thinking about how to adapt our activity to the economic evolution of our industry.

“Our mission to end cruelty to animals and help embed sustainability into the fundamentals of business conduct has made real progress. We believe we can come out stronger and better equipped to continue the vital work towards a more sustainable future for all. “


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Fashion brand

Zegna’s fashionable IPO path begs the question: is this the next big fashion trend?


To further secure its supply chain, Zegna has partnered with Prada this year to each buy 40% of Italian cashmere producer Filati Biagioli Modesto, and Mr Zegna said Zegna could use the proceeds from the IPO. to invest more in Italian textile manufacturing.

Production control has the added benefit of ensuring traceability and sustainability, a growing concern of the younger generation of customers Zegna courts. One of the brand’s most famous assets is Oasi Zegna, the vast Italian park in Trivero, Piedmont, the brand’s hometown, which was created by the founder of Zegna to preserve the local ecosystem that is 30 times the size of New York’s Central Park (as the company boasts in the investor deck it prepared for PSPC). During the interview, Mr. Zegna proudly pointed out his sneakers, made from recycled components, and the fact that the brand now has a program to reconfigure the scraps of fabric left on the cutting room floor so that ‘they are no longer wasted.

But even with quality and the supply chain on its side, Zegna, as a state-owned company, will be in competition with the French luxury giants who have spent decades unearthing the world’s best-known brands. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which has built a stable of more than 75 brands including Tiffany & Company, Dior and Pucci, has achieved a market capitalization of nearly $ 400 billion. Kering, owner of labels like Gucci and Saint Laurent, is worth nearly $ 100 billion.

“Part of the reason we did what we did is because of the scale,” Zegna said of the decision to go public. “Ladder – this is our program – don’t ask me what the ladder would be, but surely bigger than it is now.” “

He couldn’t be invited to discuss future acquisitions, but Zegna made one of his first steps towards that to-do list with his 2018 acquisition of New York-based fashion label Thom Browne, whose shrunken costumes and a penchant for tongue-in-cheek interpretations of preppiness made him popular with a client group younger than Zegna’s main clientele. Since joining Zegna, the brand has branched out into children’s clothing, with a strong presence in South Korea and China, and Mr. Zegna said there were plans for further expansion. . (Mr. Browne, who remains the brand’s Creative Director, and Rodrigo Bazan, its CEO, joined Mr. Zegna in ringing the opening bell at the New York exchange on Monday.)

A collaboration with high-street American streetwear brand Fear of God in 2020 also helped boost Zegna’s cool factor, and Mr Zegna said there were more limited-edition collections in the works.


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Fashion designer

Still shopping for the art and fashion lovers in your life? This chic museum product will make them happy


Welcome to 12 Days of Artmas, our new non-denominational holiday extravaganza – an Advent calendar with gift ideas and stories for art lovers of all stripes, every day until December 24.

When you hear the words ‘museum gift shop’ what probably comes to mind is a range of overpriced Georges Seurat magnets and Gustav Klimt postcards, maybe an Andy Warhol pencil sharpener for for good measure. But these days, more and more art institutions are collaborating with fashion designers to present selected products that are in fact highly coveted.

From cult favorites like Brother Vellies to biggest luxury houses like Moschino, here are five museum designer collaborations and their coolest products.

Lingua Franca x The Whitney

The “HEAR LISTEN” sweatshirt by Lingua Franca x Christine Sun Kim at The Whitney. Courtesy of the museum.

Which: Lingua Franca (LF) is one of New York’s most beloved small businesses making a difference, with really cute cashmere sweaters. LF employs local women to embroider its pieces with cheeky phrases, paying them a living wage while donating a portion of the profits to charity. To date, he has raised over $ 1 million for organizations such as the American Civil Liberties Union and Planned Parenthood.

What: In response to customer demand, the Whitney Museum boutique is partnering with Lingua Franca for the fourth time, with their latest offering inspired by the works of Christine Sun Kim. The “TO LISTEN The LISTEN sweatshirt ”highlights the artist’s emphasis on the ways we communicate; her message is embroidered in Kim’s own handwriting.

How much: $ 160 ($ 144 for members) for the cotton sweatshirt; $ 300 for the cashmere version.

Brother Vellies x the Met

Brother Vellies x The Met.  Courtesy of the museum.

Brother Vellies x The Met. Courtesy of the museum.

Which: This exclusive Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met) collection with Brother Vellies is from the Met Costume Institute’s two-part exhibition devoted to American fashion. Founder Aurora James—who started the 15 percent promise and honored the cover of the September 2020 issue of Vogue in a painted portrait by Jordan Casteel – Launched the Brooklyn-based luxury accessories brand in 2013 to help keep traditional African design practices alive while employing local artisans. (Talk about a match made in art history heaven.)

What: The capsule collection (available only via the Met’s Instagram store) features sweatshirts and t-shirts stamped with the words “American As Me,” as well as basket-woven handbags and recycled denim shirts celebrating American fashion in all its glory.

How much: From $ 55 for a t-shirt to $ 350 for a handbag.

Comme des Garçons x LACMA

Comme des Garçons x LACMA.  Courtesy of the museum.

Comme des Garçons x LACMA. Courtesy of the museum.

Which: The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA) currently holds no less than 19 works by Comme des Garçons (CdG) and its founder, Rei Kawakubo. Kawakubo, who was the subject of the Met Costume Institute’s Spring 2017 exhibition, showcased an avant-garde style focused on the “in-between” between boundaries; her seemingly impossible-to-wear clothes have become de rigueur on the red carpet and beyond.

What: CdG wallets come in a red and green tartan (what a party!), Which is one of Kawakubo’s favorite prints, while its small leather pouches come in solid dark green and black.

How much: $ 207 ($ 186.30 for members).

Moschino x The Academy Museum

Moschino x The Academy Museum store.  Courtesy of the museum.

Moschino x The Academy Museum store. Courtesy of the museum.

Which: Calling all moviegoers! If you haven’t been to the newly opened Academy Museum in Los Angeles yet, you can always bring home some of the movie magic with a selection of goodies from the Academy Museum Store. One of the highlights is a capsule collection designed by Moschino frontman Jeremy Scott, who collaborated with Oscar-winning costume designer Arianne Phillips to bring aspects of The Wizard of Oz to live.

What: The Ruby Slipper Sequin Bag is the perfect glittery accessory to enhance any girl’s ensemble.

How much: $ 480.

Vans x MOCA

Judy Baca at MOCA x VANS.  Courtesy of the Museum.

Judy Baca at MOCA x VANS. Courtesy of the Museum.

Which: Two Californian classics, Vans and the LA Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), have come together once again to showcase the creations of three artists on classic Vans styles. Details of the works of Judy Baca, Frances Stark and Brenna Youngblood are engraved on the Vans Authentic, Old Skool and SK8-HI styles.

What: A panel of the mural by Judith F. Baca The wall of the world: a vision of the future without fear (1990-2014), a design inspired by a still by Frances Stark Poets at the stake III (2015) and Brenna Youngblood Democratic dollar (2015) will give your kicks a boost.

How much: $ 70 to $ 90, depending on the style.

Previous stories in this series:

On the second day of Artmas, My True Love gave me… a clutch bag that re-imagines the heritage of Louis Vuitton

On the first day of Artmas my true love gave me… a step by step guide to gifting an NFT

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Fashion brand

Kanye West “Online” for a Leading Position at Louis Vuitton Fashion Brand


Sources claim Kanye West could become Louis Vuitton’s new creative director

Kanye West “Online” for a Leading Position at Louis Vuitton Fashion Brand

Kanye West is said to be on his way to becoming the creative director of luxury fashion brand Louise Vuitton.

The late Virgil Abloh was the brand’s artistic director of men’s fashion before his tragic death less than two weeks ago.

Rapper Kanye, 44, has taken over the fashion world in recent years with the launch of his own clothing line, Yeezy, which has quickly become immensely popular.

It has now been claimed that the star – who was a close friend of fashion legend Virgil – could expand her fashion portfolio with a new role at LV.

According to sources, Kanye and Virgil had discussed the possibility of the role.

“Kanye is devastated by Virgil’s death because they have been friends for years and worked a lot together,” the insider told The Sun.

“They shared a similar vision and now Kanye thinks he owes Virgil to continue his work at Louis Vuitton.”







Kanye and Virgil had been close friends for years
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Picture:

Getty Images)








The star already has her own clothing line
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Picture:

Getty Images for Fast Company)


The Mirror has contacted representatives for Kanye and LVMH for comment.

Ye and Virgil had been friends for more than a decade after they first met in 2009.

The designer even had the role of creative director in Kanye’s own business, Donda.

Off-White founder Virgil died aged 41 last month after a secret battle with cancer.

LVMH had confirmed the tragic news by paying tribute to the fashion designer, revealing that he had been battling a rare form of cancer – cardiac angiosarcoma – in private for two years.

The statement read: “LVMH, Louis Vuitton and Off White are devastated to announce the death of Virgil Abloh, Sunday, November 28, from cancer, which he had fought in private for several years.”

There was also a post on Virgil’s Instagram account by his family, which described him as “a fiercely devoted father, husband, son, brother and friend.” They also thanked the fans for their love and support during this difficult time.







Virgil died in November
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Picture:

Christopher Peterson / SplashNews.com)








Virgil was secretly battling cancer
(

Picture:

REUTERS)


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The statement said: “We are devastated to announce the passing of our beloved Virgil Abloh, a fiercely devoted father, husband, son, brother and friend. He is survived by his beloved wife Shannon Abloh, his children Lowe Abloh and Gray Abloh, his sister Edwina Abloh, his parents Nee and Eunice Abloh, and many dear friends and colleagues.

“For more than two years, Virgil has valiantly fought a rare and aggressive form of cancer, cardiac angiosarcoma. He has chosen to wage his battle in private since his diagnosis in 2019, undergoing many difficult treatments, while leading several institutions. major that span fashion, art, and culture. “

They continued, “Through it all, his work ethic, endless curiosity and optimism never wavered. Virgil was motivated by his dedication to his craft and his mission to open doors for others and to create pathways for greater equality in art and design. He would often say, “Everything I do is for the 17-year-old version of myself”, deeply believing in the power of art to inspire future generations.

“We thank you all for your love and support, and we ask for privacy as we mourn and celebrate the life of Virgil.”

Do you have a story to sell? Contact us at [email protected] or call us directly on 0207 29 33033.

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Fashion style

Gigi and Bella Hadid’s tributes to close friend and fashion maverick Virgil Abloh


Gigi Hadid and Virgil Abloh attend the 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards in New York City. Photo by Michael Stewart / WireImage

The founder of Off-White and Creative Director of Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh, has made a lasting impact in the lives of many people. Gigi and Bella Hadid were among those people and became his muses on the track. Both models are said to be seen with him very often on red carpets and at social events.

Virgil recently passed away after battling cancer after being diagnosed in 2019. A heartbroken Gigi shared a heartfelt post after losing her friend.

READ MORE | Off-White founder and director of Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh, was a master of authentic expression

“His kindness and energetic generosity left a lasting impression on every life he touched – he made everyone feel seen and special. He will be deeply missed, cherished and celebrated by me and all people and industries. who were lucky enough to work around him and know the real supernova behind this man, ”she wrote.

Gigi added that Virgil would always be adored and magical.

“You will continue to inspire me every day, V. I feel blessed and honored every moment. Rest easy, my friend. You are so loved. You have made the difference. As we have always said,” Gigi continued.

READ MORE | Gigi Hadid marks her return to the catwalks for Versace 5 months after welcoming her daughter

Bella was also one of the celebrity models frequently seen with Virgil. She says the fashion maverick broke boundaries and made everything his own. “You shared your love endlessly. The way your brain functioned was above all else, and the way you did everything in life for your family, friends and for the better,” says Bella. .

READ MORE | Shake up the status quo: meet Gabriella Karefa-Johnson, the first black woman to style a Vogue cover

She went on to say that he was someone for everyone, which was the magical power he held.

“He made everyone he met feel special in every way he could. Even when the world was sad he brought laughter, color and beauty. The way he made an impact positive about everything he touched and always pushed for his culture / world is why he was an angel on earth and an angel among many. The most beautiful of warrior souls. I cannot not believe it, “wrote Bella.

Virgil was laid to rest in Chicago on December 7.

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Fashion brand

Carine Roitfeld organizes her first fashion exhibition


HONG KONG – In what must be a sign of the times, famous editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld’s first fashion exhibition has been held in France, will open with an online gala, and will be shown in a luxury shopping mall and a cultural center of Hong Kong. neon lit waterfront.

On Friday, Ms Roitfeld’s celebration at the Hôtel de Crillon in Paris will be connected live to the party at the K11 Musea shopping center that its owner, Adrian Cheng, has planned.

Their collaboration, “Savoir-Faire: mastering craftsmanship in fashion”, which is scheduled to open on Monday, is to present around thirty examples of contemporary fashion design, depending on the arrival of the expeditions; 12 Chinese artifacts; and a multimedia exhibition of craft techniques. (Until February 14; tickets start at 60 Hong Kong dollars, or $ 7.70.)

“This exhibition is not a history lesson, but a showcase of craftsmanship in its many forms,” ​​said Ms Roitfeld, founder of CR Fashion Book and former editor-in-chief of Vogue Paris, in a video interview since. the French capital.

She noted that she wanted to avoid the kind of fashion retrospective that traditional European brands typically create. “I didn’t choose the most extraordinary pieces but pieces which, when you look at them, will make you understand the craftsmanship,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “Curing an exhibition is a first for me. But I organize it the same way I would for a fashion shoot or an editorial. I can’t change myself.

Among her choices was a wedding dress from Chanel’s Fall 2017 couture collection, with rough-edged rosettes anchoring the veil, sleeves and hem of a voluminous high-waisted skirt. Another was a mini dress, with hand-sewn sequined pastel fringes on the bodice, from Dior’s Spring 2019 couture collection. Balenciaga, Givenchy, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Tom Ford and Valentino will also be represented.

“I want people to feel like they’re part of the show, part of the dream,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “When you look at the track, you don’t feel the details. But in this exhibit, you’ll feel the embroidery, the way the fabric drapes over the back of a dress. I want to show the audience what is going on behind the scenes, as if they were at a photoshoot.

Her selection also included independent designers in their 30s and 40s such as Iris Van Herpen from the Netherlands, Tom Van Der Borght from Belgium and Richard Quinn from Great Britain, whose fall 2020 ready-to-wear show was designed by Mrs. Roitfeld.

“Know-how is not only for sewing, it is also for ready-to-wear. It’s a new idea that I wanted to express in this exhibition, ”she said. “It is imperative that he sends the message that know-how is alive and well. It is still celebrated, even by young fashion houses. It is not dead.

Ms Roitfeld praised Ms Van Herpen, whom she called “one of the best in the world for the use of silicone and laser cutting techniques,” displayed in sheer Swarovski crystal dresses and futuristic 3D silhouettes.

“She always surprises me,” Ms. Roitfeld said. “She started her couture brand at the age of 23. It takes courage and determination.”

“Savoir-Faire” is a continuation of Ms. Roitfeld’s collaboration with Mr. Cheng, who is Managing Director of Hong Kong real estate company New World Development and founder of the K11 brand. Earlier this year, they co-produced a three-part video series called “K11 Original Masters”, which explored artisan techniques such as feather stitching and quilting leather bags.

“We realized that craftsmanship was the common link between European fashion and Chinese artisans,” she said. “The works are beautiful, special, powerful – and some contain important messages. “

Mr. Cheng’s contribution to the exhibit will be the loan of a dozen Chinese artifacts from the K11 Craft & Guild Foundation, a non-profit organization he founded to preserve the skills used to create objects like Cantonese ceramics. In the exhibition, multimedia devices will juxtapose the Asian techniques used to create the pieces with those used in European couture.

For Mr. Cheng, it was important that the exhibition be what he calls a “fusion of Europe and Asia” that pays homage to the history of craftsmanship.

“We can create these connections and relationships through objects that may look different, but involve the same shared passion,” he said. “For example, the way French couturiers used feathers was inspired by the Qing dynasty. “

He said he also hoped to introduce the idea of ​​the craft to a younger audience, who often come to the Seven-Level Mall on weekends.

“Today everything is fast and about instant gratification,” Mr. Cheng said. “But the craft is meditative and methodical. It symbolizes perseverance, patience and perseverance.

“Everything is human made, and that’s the beauty of it.”


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French fashion

Texan style expert reflects on Virgil Abloh’s legacy – “Symbol of a movement”


AUSTIN (KXAN) – To sum up, Virgil Abloh’s influence on the luxury fashion industry would be next to impossible, said Michelle Washington, an Austin-based television style expert. But through his pioneering work as a leading black designer in the luxury menswear world, Washington said he has left an indelible mark on the field and emerging artists.

“He made black people dream,” she said. “He opened this door to dream again. And that was for a marginalized part of the community, where opportunities may or may not have been available. But here Virgil was a breaker of glass ceilings.

Abloh was an American fashion designer known for his work as the artistic director of the Louis Vuitton menswear collection and as the founder and CEO of the Off-White fashion house. He died Sunday, at the age of 41, from a 2019 diagnosis of angiosarcoma, a form of cancer.

Abloh made history as the first black designer to take over the artistic direction of a French luxury fashion house, Washington said. Her designs have helped modernize luxury menswear, taking it into the 21st century and beyond, she added.

“He was the symbol of a movement,” she said. “He was the fashion of what we recognize as a designer of modern men’s clothing – practically a trailblazer in all of this, in the only period of his career.”

She credited the “visionary color” and artistry that her designs brought to the Parisian catwalks, and for reinventing designs that could succeed and perform at the luxury level.

Prior to his career in luxury fashion, Abloh obtained degrees in civil engineering and architecture. These elements of his personal history, Washington said, have played into the identity of his designs and his artistic sense of detail.

“He came from a different aspect of building and creating and then he turned to the fashion industry,” she said. “He could see things that others could not see due to his different experience and perspective in the creative realm.”

For emerging creatives and black designers, Washington said his work left a monumental impact and rewrote the possibilities of what could be achieved. Combining her designs and artistic vision with her historic accomplishments as a black designer in luxury fashion, she said the legacy of her work will be felt for generations to come.

“Her mark on the luxury fashion industry will not be erased,” she said. “It will be something that people will mark until the end of time, because of what he could dream and achieve.”


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French fashion

In the sweet private life of Virgil Abloh with his wife Shannon


For many in the fashion world, Virgil Abhol, 41, was a maverick, a fashion underdog who became famous for his headlining catwalks. Nicknamed the “Karl Lagerfeld for Millennials,” he rose from relative obscurity to the height of his art. He hung out with the coolest kids, hung out with his best friend Kanye West, ‘smashed’ fashion weeks, disrupted the industry and founded one of the world’s hottest streetwear brands, Off-White – a brand which has become as famous for its hoodies and t-shirts as its huge social media success. In 2018, he became the first African-American artistic director of French men’s fashion Louis Vuitton.

The shock news of the death of the 41-year-old cardiac angiosarcoma, a rare and aggressive form of cancer, sent reverberations into the fashion world last night. “We are devastated to announce the passing of our beloved Virgil Abloh,” said his wife of 12 years, Shannon Abloh. a statement on the creator’s Instagram page. “He has chosen to endure his battle in private since his diagnosis in 2019, undergoing many difficult treatments. He is also survived by his children Lowe Abloh and Gray Abloh, his sister Edwina Abloh and his parents Nee and Eunice Abloh.

Virgil Abloh appears at the end of his Spring / Summer 2019 collection for Off-White during Men’s Fashion Week in Paris. That same year, he was diagnosed with cancer which killed him at age 41.
REUTERS
Shannon Abloh (above) met her husband at school and lived in Chicago while working in Paris.
Shannon Abloh (above) met her husband at school and lived in Chicago while working in Paris.
Christopher Peterson / SplashNews

As the news spread around the world tributes came from afar, with prominent friends including Pharrell Williams, Victoria Beckham and Kanye paying their respects. But if her fashion career was filled with stars, her family life was quite the opposite. Born in Rockport near Chicago, Abloh was the son of Ghanaian immigrant parents. Her father worked in a painting company and her mother, Eunice, as a seamstress. She taught Abloh to use a sewing machine, and at a young age he started designing t-shirts.

<a class=Designer Virgil Abloh, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Karlie Kloss in the Off-White runway finale for Paris Fashion Week.” class=”wp-image-20305788″ srcset=”https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/GettyImages-1132825945.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=2048 2048w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/GettyImages-1132825945.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=1536 1536w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/GettyImages-1132825945.jpg?quality=90&strip=all 1024w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/GettyImages-1132825945.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=512 512w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”/>
Designer Virgil Abloh, Gigi Hadid, Bella Hadid and Karlie Kloss in the Off-White runway finale for Paris Fashion Week.
Getty Images

He met his childhood sweetheart Shannon (née Sundberg) while they were both still in school. The couple later moved to Wisconsin where Shannon studied management and marketing at Edgewood College and Abhol began a civil engineering degree at the University of Wisconsin at Madison before studying for a master’s degree in architecture at the ‘Illinois Institute of Technology.

Abloh and Kanye West (middle, with ex-wife Kim Kardashian) were frequent artistic collaborators.
Abloh and Kanye West (middle, with ex-wife Kim Kardashian) were frequent artistic collaborators.
Better picture / BACKGRID

Virgil rarely spoke of his wife in interviews, but there was never any doubt how strong their bond was. According to reports, after a 10-year courtship, Abloh decided to ask the question but realized he would have to get creative to take her by surprise. He asked her if she could drive with him to the airport for a work trip as she normally did and as they swapped the driver’s seats he caught her completely off guard and got down on his knees. . “I was completely surprised – I couldn’t believe it! Shannon said at the time.

Shannon Abloh was often seated in the front row of her husband's shows.
Shannon Abloh was often seated in the front row of her husband’s shows.
Matteo Prandoni / BFA.com

The couple married in 2009 at the Chicago Four Seasons, the same year Abloh decided architecture wasn’t for him after all and found an internship job with fashion label Fendi. It was a big family wedding, Abloh would have left most of the arrangements to the bride, while playing a “supporting role”. The bride wore ivory-colored Amsales and purple-blue shoes, the groom wore a tuxedo and white tie, and the couple sat at different guest tables for each course to make sure they were chatting with all of their people. family and friends. During the ceremony, the couple read each other special emotional promises. “The funny thing is that we wrote them separately – and we didn’t share them with each other – but they were very similar! Shannon told the bridal magazine Inside Weddings at the time.

Virgil Abloh and his wife Shannon chat backstage at the Off-White Menswear Fall / Winter 2019-2020 show.
Virgil Abloh and his wife Shannon chat backstage at the Off-White Menswear Fall / Winter 2019-2020 show.
Getty Images

Recalling her husband’s wedding speech, she said, “His words were so heartfelt and heartfelt. He made everyone laugh, cry and smile… this is the moment I was dying to see on our wedding video. Virgil humbly added that one of the best parts of marriage was the people who helped make it happen: “The stress and tension never got past their high spirits. More than anything, this is what created the most special night of our life, and we are so grateful. “

Flowers are seen outside the Off-White flagship store in London.
Flowers are seen outside the Off-White flagship store in London.
Getty Images

Throughout Virgil’s meteoric rise, Shannon, 41, has remained largely out of the spotlight. She was however a strong supporter of her husband’s career, attending shows and red carpet events, later with their two young children, son Gray and daughter Lowe. As her career followed a different, more conventional path – she first worked as a media planner for Yahoo, then later as a program manager for Monster – she continued to be a front row fixture at all of her shows. .

Abloh standing between his sister Edwina (left) and Shannon for Louis Vuitton Men's Spring / Summer 2019 <a class=Fashion Show.” class=”wp-image-20305805″ srcset=”https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/Virgil-Abloh-Shannon-abloh-02.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=1023 1023w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/Virgil-Abloh-Shannon-abloh-02.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=682 682w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/Virgil-Abloh-Shannon-abloh-02.jpg?quality=90&strip=all&w=341 341w, https://nypost.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/2/2021/11/Virgil-Abloh-Shannon-abloh-02.jpg?quality=90&strip=all 1024w” sizes=”(max-width: 682px) 100vw, 682px”/>
Abloh standing between his sister Edwina (left) and Shannon for Louis Vuitton Men’s Spring / Summer 2019 Fashion Show.
Getty Images

The family was based primarily in Chicago, with Abloh commuting, racking up formidable airline miles. If integrating family life into Vuitton’s men’s fashion direction was a balancing act, he never showed it. His private life was basically a closed book. “I don’t want to be a celebrity designer,” he once said. “I want to keep my personal life out of this.” He was famous for his formidable work ethic – it is said that he never sat in place, refused to have a desk, and did all of his work on the go by iPhone. But despite this, his lifestyle at millions of miles an hour seemed to be taking its toll. Under the orders of a doctor, the creator announced in 2019 that he was taking three months of leave and public appearances. “I’m changing gears,” he said at the time.

Shannon Abloh poses with her children Gray and Lowe, both under five, for the Off-White Menswear Fall / Winter 2019/2020 show.
Shannon Abloh poses with her children Gray and Lowe, both under five, for the Off-White Menswear Fall / Winter 2019/2020 show.
Corbis / Getty Images

Shannon’s post on her husband’s Instagram page describes him as a “fiercely devoted father, husband, son, brother and friend.”

The unwavering loyal support of his wife and family has undoubtedly been the key to his success. “Through it all, his work ethic, endless curiosity and optimism have never wavered,” said the tribute. “Virgil was motivated by his dedication to his craft and his mission to open doors for others and create pathways for greater equality in art and design. He would often say, “Everything I do is for the 17-year-old version of myself”, deeply believing in the power of art to inspire future generations.



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Fashion designer

Fashion designer Virgil Abloh dies at 41 after private battle with cancer: NPR


Designer Virgil Abloh died on Sunday at the age of 41 after battling a rare form of cancer. The founder of the Off-White label and artistic director of men’s fashion Louis Vuitton was known as a visionary.



NOEL KING, HOST:

Fashion designer Virgil Abloh has died from a rare form of cancer. He was a luminary. He founded the Off-White label. He was artistic director of Louis Vuitton men’s fashion and made streetwear into haute couture. Earlier this morning, I spoke to Karen Grigsby Bates of NPR.

Hello, Karen.

KAREN GRIGSBY BATES, BYLINE: Hello, Noel.

KING: So he was quite different from a lot of fashion designers, wasn’t he?

BATES: It was. I spoke with Booth Moore. She is the West Coast editor of Bible Women’s Wear Daily magazine, devoted to the fashion industry. And she pointed out that Abloh was a pioneer. She says her entry into fashion was unique.

BOOTH MOORE: You know, he grew up on pop culture, not through traditional design channels. And he was very good at bridging the gaps between different disciplines. He was a DJ himself and, you know, had huge success on social media before he got into fashion. And so, he really changed the image of what a fashion designer should be.

BATES: He also had degrees in civil engineering and architecture. And Moore said that due to this non-linear entry into fashion, Abloh is a huge source of inspiration for young creatives.

KING: And what was it like?

BATES: Well, with his company Off-White, Virgil Abloh was one of the first to embrace streetwear and the streetwear crossover in fashion. Others would follow eventually, but he was way ahead of them. Here is Booth Moore again.

MOORE: He had that kind of clever way of labeling things in his line where, you know, that would be the actual name of the thing like a shoe or a hoodie. And so, you know, it created this mystique around the objects.

KING: He also had a very close professional relationship with Kanye West and Jay-Z, and those collaborations were incredibly important. Tell us why.

BATES: Yes, collaboration was really one of the guidelines of his work. He merged pop culture with high fashion, and he drew a lot of his influences from what young people wore and were interested in. Abloh’s has collaborated not only with celebrities, but with companies like Nike, Evian, fancy outerwear company Moncler. He designed furniture for IKEA and had a major exhibition at the Gagosian Gallery in London with artist Takashi Murakami, whose work is saturated with references to pop culture. I mean, he was everywhere.

KING: He was everywhere. IKEA – I had no idea. What do you think Mr. Abloh will ultimately be remembered for?

BATES: I asked Booth Moore about it, and she responded immediately.

MOORE: Virgil has been a catalyst for much of what is now expected of the industry and what it’s slowly approaching.

BATES: And, you know, Noel, the New York Times says that Virgil Abloh’s role at LVMH, I quote, “made him the most powerful black executive in the most powerful luxury group in the world.” In an industry still grappling with race and diversity, his death will leave a huge void that will be really hard to fill.

KING: Karen Grigsby Bates, senior correspondent for NPR’s Code Switch podcast. Thanks Karen.

BATES: You’re welcome.

(EXTRACT FROM “NEEDED LOVE” BY LIAM THOMAS “)

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Fashion designer

Fashion designer Virgil Abloh has died aged 41


NEW YORK (AP) – Virgil Abloh, a leading designer whose revolutionary fusions of streetwear and haute couture made him one of the most famous taste designers in fashion and beyond, has died of cancer. He was 41 years old.

Abloh’s death was announced on Sunday by luxury group LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) and Abloh’s own brand Off-White, which he founded in 2013. Abloh was the artistic director of men’s fashion for Louis Vuitton, but its pervasive and friendly presence in the culture was broad and vibrant. Some have compared him to Jeff Koons. Others hailed him as the Karl Lagerfeld of his generation.

“We are all shocked after this terrible news. Virgil was not only a designer of genius, a visionary, he was also a man with a beautiful soul and great wisdom ”, declared Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of LVMH, in a press release.

A statement from Abloh’s family on the creator’s Instagram account said Abloh was diagnosed two years ago with cardiac angiosarcoma, a rare form of cancer in which a tumor occurs in the heart.

“He has chosen to wage his battle in private since his diagnosis in 2019, undergoing many difficult treatments, while leading several important institutions that span fashion, art and culture,” the statement said.

In 2018, Abloh became the first black artistic director of men’s clothing at Louis Vuitton in the rich history of the French design house. A first-generation Ghanaian American whose mother a seamstress taught him to sew, Abloh had no formal training in fashion but had an engineering degree and a master’s degree in architecture.

Abloh, who grew up in Rockford, Illinois, outside of Chicago, was often considered a Renaissance man in the fashion world. He moonlighted as a DJ. But in no time, he became one of the most acclaimed fashion designers. Abloh called himself “a creator”. He was named one of Time magazine’s most influential people in 2018.

In 2009, Abloh met Kanye West – now called Ye – while working at a screen printing store. After he and Ye interned together at LVMH brand Fendi, Abloh was Ye’s creative director. Abloh was artistic director of Ye-Jay-Z’s 2011 album “Watch the Throne”, for which Abloh was nominated for a Grammy.

Abloh’s work with West has served as a model for future cross-border collaborations that combine high and low. With Nike, he teamed up with his label Off-White for a line of frenzied sneakers remixed with a variety of Helvetica styles and fonts. Abloh has also designed furniture for IKEA, refillable bottles for Evian and Big Mac boxes for McDonald’s. His work has been exhibited at the Louvre, the Gagosian and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Chicago.

Abloh’s death stunned the entertainment world. Actor Riz Ahmed said on Twitter that Abloh “stretched the culture and changed the game.” Fashion designer Jeff Staple wrote: “You taught us all to dream. Pharrell Williams called Abloh a “kind, generous and thoughtful creative genius.”

Abloh took what he called a “3% approach” to fashion – that a new design could be created by modifying a 3% original. Critics have said Abloh is more brilliant at repackaging than creating something new. But Abloh’s style was also self-aware – quotes were a trademark to him – and noble.

“In my mind, streetwear is tied to Duchamp,” Abloh told The New Yorker in 2019. “It’s that idea of ​​the ready-made. I’m talking about the Lower East Side, New York. It’s like hip-hop. It’s sampling. I take James Brown, I cut him, I make a new song. “

The stars lined up to be dressed by Abloh. Beyoncé, Michael B. Jordan, Kim Kardashian West, Timothée Chalamet and Serena Williams wore her clothes.

Abloh’s Off-White label, in which LVMH acquired a majority stake earlier this year, has made him an arbiter of cool. But his Louis Vuitton appointment took Abloh to the top of an industry in which he was once a rambling underdog – and made Abloh one of the most powerful black executives in a historically closed fashion world.

As Abloh prepared for his first menswear show in 2018, he told GQ: “I now have a platform to change the industry.”

“We’re designers, so we can start a trend, we can highlight issues, we can get a lot of people to focus on something, or we can get a lot of people to focus on ourselves,” he said. said Abloh. “I’m not. Interested (the latter). I’m interested in using my platform as a member of a very small group of African American men to design a house, to show people a poetic way.

Abloh is survived by his wife Shannon Abloh and his children, Lowe and Gray.

Copyright 2021 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed without permission.


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French fashion

Presents with a little history


Prices vary by state, but, as an example, a selection of Cartier Love bracelets in gold were recently priced at around $ 6,000 each on 1stdibs, which is around $ 1,500 less than similar styles on the Cartier site.

Buyers like Ann Bamesberger, an executive at a medical research company who lives in Palo Alto, Calif., Appreciate these offers. Last year, she bought a resale Hermes scarf for a friend at RealReal for around $ 150, about a third of its retail price. The recipient, she said, “was so thrilled. “

Ms Bamesberger, who loves brands like Gucci and Bottega Veneta, said she enjoys receiving resale gifts from friends, who tend to spend a few hundred dollars on gifts from each other. “I prefer to make the mark and have it used gently and get something that I love,” she said.

But buying on the resale market is, like so many things, affected by supply and demand. You can raise the prices more during the holiday season, and people will buy it, ”said Paola Tapia, an Atlanta-based independent luxury authenticator who also sells designer items owned by Poshmark and her own website.

Frantic gift-shoppers, she said, are willing to pay more for certain items, sometimes even more than the retail price. “They are impulse buyers,” she said. “They have to act fast, because if they can’t find it anywhere else, they’re stuck.”

She added that resale prices could increase by more than 20% this time of year for classics like Louis Vuitton’s Speedy, a satchel available in various sizes.

The supply chain warnings everyone has heard – along with already empty shelves in some stores – could also add to the resale appeal this year. As NPD’s Mr. Cohen said, “You might not have been to a resale site or a thrift store or some sort of second-hand shop, but if you really want a bag of your choice, you may need to find it as a resource. “


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French fashion

Brigette Macron wears skinny jeans and Louis Vuitton Run Away sneakers – Footwear News


All products and services presented are independently selected by the editors. However, FN may receive a commission on orders placed through its retail links, and the retailer may receive certain verifiable data for accounting purposes.

French first lady Brigette Macron stepped out in her most comfortable outfit yet.


Brigitte Macron marching in Biarritz, France, during the G7 summit on November 6, 2021.

CREDIT: Sipa USA via AP

While walking in Biarritz, France, to the G7 summit on November 6, Macron wore a loose white blouse with a tie bow and gold buttons. She paired her top with dark blue skinny jeans with a red studded belt.


brigitte macron, louis vuitton sneakers, skinny jeans, white blouse, g7 summit, Brigitte Macron walking in Biarritz, France, during the G7 summit on November 6, 2021

Brigette Macron wears Louis Vuitton Run Away sneakers in Biarritz, France during the G7 summit on November 6, 2021.

CREDIT: Sipa USA via AP

For the shoes, Macron wore a pair of white Louis Vuitton Run Away sneakers. The shoe is a reinterpretation of the classic running shoe. This version is crafted from supple calfskin and patent monogram canvas, and features a gold-tone metal plaque and brand logo to the side. The wedge-shaped outsole discreetly adds extra height. She opted for simple accessories as she wore dark circle shades and a diamond encrusted ring that sat on her right hand.


brigitte macron, louis vuitton sneakers, skinny jeans, white blouse, g7 summit, Brigitte Macron walking in Biarritz, France, during the G7 summit on November 6, 2021

Brigitte Macron marching in Biarritz, France, during the G7 summit on November 6, 2021.

CREDIT: Sipa USA via AP

The mother-of-three wore her straight blonde hair as her bangs swept down the sides of her face.

This is not the first time that Macron has been seen in Louis Vuitton shoes. During a visit to Emile Zola and his Dreyfus museum in Paris in October, she raised her navy blue suit with a pair of designer boots. The boots featured a Matchmake style that featured a black leather upper with buckled ankle straps in a pointed toe silhouette. They also featured accents of the brand’s signature monogram print, on the heel spikes of the boots and 3.9-inch block heels.

Macron is not afraid to showcase her style as she continues to wear classic, timeless and trendy pieces. She recently paid tribute to German Chancellor Angela Merkel alongside her husband, President Emmanuel Macron, during the Grand Cross ceremony of Merkel’s Legion of Honor in Beaune, France. The teacher donned a black long-sleeved dress with a pointy skirt that fell just above the knee. She layered the piece with a black leather belt, sheer tights, point-toe pumps and accessorized with a Chanel clutch in black quilted leather.

Click on the gallery to learn more about Brigitte Macron’s style over the years.


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Fashion style

Model Raenee Sydney explains how fashion retail influenced her style


IMAGE VIA @ ITSRAINYBABY_ / INSTAGRAM
WORDS FROM CAIT EMMA BURKE




“I think trying to fit into a box is too linear and ends up making everyone look the same.”

We know personal style is a journey (I’m looking at you, Tumblr years), so we’ve introduced a new series Hey, I Like Your Style! delve into the fashion psyche of our favorite designers. We are talking about the good, the bad and the 2007.

While the Internet has made our fashion icons feeling closer than ever, even the simplest outfits came from a closet with (well dressed) skeletons. Clickable product labels, photo archives and the lives told in 30-second clips just don’t tell the whole story.


For more fashion news, shoots, articles and reports, visit our Fashion section.


These are the stories behind wardrobes, exploring how we develop our own personal style. There is genius in the way we choose to express ourselves and at FJ we know that every outfit has a story.

This week, we dive into Raenee Sydney’s enviable wardrobe. Raenee, or @itsrainybaby_ on Instagram, is an Australian model and ceramicist whose style we have long admired. Both casual and eclectic, she mixes bold patterns and prints with perfectly chosen shoes and accessories. Read on for her style journey.

Who are you and what do you like to wear?

Hi! My name is Raenee and I’m a ceramicist and a model, and I love wearing pants.

What does your style evolution look like? Do you feel like you’ve gained confidence in the way you dress?

I like to think that my style has never really changed over the years. The only difference would be that now that I’m doing ceramics and riding my bike, I wear less skirts and dresses and definitely own more pants. I have always worked in retail / fashion (until March of this year) which had a major influence on the way I dress and interact with clothing.

I was an intern at Rush when I was in college which definitely gave me some insight into fashion and ‘trends’. When I worked at Ellery, I was a little more dressed with my outfits, but it was mostly because of the environment.

While my time at Supply saw me dress a little more “boyish” with sneakers and T-shirts. However, luckily I was always confident in what I was wearing as I never really cared what people thought. In the end, these are just clothes and the style is subjective!

Personal style is a journey. Have you ever felt the need to fit into a particular fashion company?

Fortunately, not really. I think my time in the two stores (which I think are completely opposite) helped me expand my wardrobe and allowed me to become more versatile with the way I dressed.

There were definitely times when I felt badly dressed – that is, maybe I shouldn’t have worn sneakers, but other than that I’m pretty confident in myself. I think trying to fit into a box is too linear and ends up making everyone look the same.

Take us back to those tough teenage years. Do you have any fashion regrets?

I always shopped in op stores because I didn’t have a job when I was in school, so I think my style was very influenced by what I could find. It might have been a bit experimental at times, but it was generally always safe.

However, I have this vivid memory of my 14th birthday party wearing sparkly silver leggings and a neon pink headband, pink elastics in my suspenders and neon pink Raben slip-ons. Not necessarily a regret, but certainly a very interesting choice.

What are the most expensive and cheapest items in your wardrobe?

Very expensive [is] a Louis Vuitton bag with its matching shoulder strap (which barely sees the light of day now), and the cheapest [is] a white cotton dress that I bought in an op store in Paris for one euro.

What’s the most significant fashion piece you own?

I have this mid-calf square neck burgundy velvet dress that my mom has been wearing since I was 20 and is mine now. It is so beautiful and fits me like a glove, but I have never worn it because I can’t seem to find the right occasion for it. This is very sexy Cameron Diaz in The mask atmosphere!

What’s in your cart right now?

New underwear! My underwear drawer looks pretty dark and definitely needs a makeover.

What fashion item are you saving for right now?

I can’t think of a particular room in general. But I really like The Row’s Allie bag. It’s big enough to hold all the essentials (water bottle, keys, bike lock, headphones), while still looking good. But I will never commit because this price is just a little silly (however, one can dream!).

What wardrobe items do you wear on a loop?

I have these Fucking Awesome camouflage pants that I wear constantly. They have different country military men in their respective camouflage as printed there, so it’s kind of like camouflage on camouflage. I also have these Skepta x Nike shoes which are white but have different colored ticks so they look like two separate shoes.

They are so comfortable that it is difficult not to wear them. Other than that, I never take my jewelry off (even in the shower). So every time you see me, I will always be in the same earrings, necklaces, and rings.

Who are your favorite local designers?

I feel quite grateful to be surrounded by a lot of friends who are doing wonderful things. Brands like Emsah, Worldwind Worldwide, PAM, Emily Watson, Mass.tv (who is Australian but now lives in London) are some of my favorites.

See more of Raenee’s killer looks here.



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Fashion style

How did Balenciaga become so popular among fashion enthusiasts?


Balenciaga climbs to the top.

After reigning supreme for months, the Gucci house has been relegated to second place among the most popular fashion brands, overthrown by Balenciaga. A return to haute couture and a multitude of daring – and avant-garde – collaborations paved the way for this luxury brand to (re) conquer the hearts of fashion fans, notably driven by the notoriously hard-to-satisfy Gen Z.

Balenciaga seems to attract as much fascination as it does criticism, in large part thanks to a marketing strategy that can only be described as daring, if not totally crazy. Still, the fashion house is said to be the talk of the world to the point of becoming the most popular brand in the latest Lyst * report on trends and flagship brands for Q3 2021. The brand, led by Georgian Designer and founder of Vetements Demna Gvasalia has climbed five places in a few months to challenge Gucci, another particularly popular brand of Generation Z, which had until then been the undisputed leader of the ranking.

Fortnite, Simpsons, Kanye West

Although Balenciaga has always been a popular brand, its popularity continues to grow day by day. This rise was undoubtedly stimulated by the brand’s great comeback in haute couture last July – after about half a century of absence – and has grown steadily since the fall, with projects all more daring than the others. At the end of September, the fashion house unleashed social networks by announcing a collaboration with “Fortnite”, one of the most popular video games in the world, offering players the possibility of obtaining virtual Balenciaga fashion outfits and accessories, and, by extension, confirming the growing interest of luxury houses in Generation Z.

A few days later, the French fashion house struck again. During the presentation of its spring-summer 2022 collection at Paris Fashion Week, the brand released an unprecedented episode of “The Simpsons”, making Marge, Homer, Bart, Lisa and the rest of the gang the ambassadors of its last. looks. It was the world of luxury making a foray into pop culture – or vice versa – and an initiative that landed with full impact. And this mix of genres and cultures is an integral part of Balenciaga’s winning strategy. Indeed, the brand has understood that Generation Z, the new privileged target of luxury houses, does not want lockers or stereotypes.

As if to seal his success, it now seems a plethora of celebrities swear by Balenciaga – or almost. From Kim Kardashian to Rihanna to Kanye West – or Ye by her new name – the fashion house can count on a five-star cast to showcase its outfits. The brand’s success at the last MET Gala shows that Balenciaga is everywhere on the red carpet. Not to mention Balenciaga’s collaboration with the same Kanye “Ye” West when “Donda” came out. These bets may seem crazy at first glance, but they are winning on all fronts, as the luxury house has clearly never been so popular.

An ode to color and sportswear

According to The Lyst Index, Gucci is now the second most popular brand, ahead of Dior, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Nike, Bottega Veneta, Versace, Fendi and Saint Laurent. Dolce & Gabbana returns to the Top 20, closing the ranking.

Fendi x Versace (Photo <a class=credit: Pier Nicola Bruno)” width=”1024″ height=”536″ srcset=”https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-1024×536.jpeg 1024w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-806×422.jpeg 806w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-768×402.jpeg 768w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-1536×803.jpeg 1536w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-1600×837.jpeg 1600w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-500×261.jpeg 500w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-800×418.jpeg 800w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno-1000×523.jpeg 1000w, https://cdn.lifestyleasia.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/5/2021/09/27174445/fendi-versace-Pier-Nicola-Bruno.jpeg 1610w” sizes=”(max-width: 1024px) 100vw, 1024px”/>
Fendi x Versace (Photo credit: Pier Nicola Bruno)

From July to September – a period marked by a return to a relatively normal life in many countries – trends were dominated by colorful pieces, sportswear-inspired clothing and a strong interest in accessories of all kinds. Prada’s raffia tote bag topped the list of most popular women’s items, followed by Versace’s Medusa Aevitas platform shoes in hot pink and terrycloth slides from Bottega Veneta. On the men’s side, the Adidas Yeezy sneakers remain uncontested at the top of the rankings, and more specifically the Yeezy Foam Runner, with searches up 411%.

* Lyst analyzed the online behavior of its 150 million consumers who search, browse and buy fashion items from 17,000 brands and online stores. The Lyst Index methodology takes into account consumer behavior on the platform, including conversion and sale rates. The study also takes into account Google searches, social media mentions and global engagement statistics over a three-month period.

_______________________________________________________________________________________________

Images of heroes and stars of Balenciaga. The story is published via AFP Relaxnews



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Fashion style

From music to fashion, BTS is the icon of musical style


BTS poses at the United Nations General Assembly in New York on September 20. (Big Hit Music)

K-pop sensation BTS debuted in 2013 with high top sneakers, bandanas, sunglasses and snapbacks. While the style of boy bands in the K-pop scene was to put on cheerful rags, the industry did not know that the septet would be the leader of creative hijinks in the fashion industry.

And aside from having one of the highest net worths on the South Korean A-list, the group’s seven members are also known for their taste for adventurous fashion.

Last month, South Korean President Moon Jae-in appointed the globetrotter act to a cultural diplomacy role. And the group’s first official function as the President’s “Special Envoys for Future Generations and Culture” was an appearance at the SDG Moment, the second meeting dedicated to the UN Sustainable Development Goals.

During the event, the group expressed support for the international community’s efforts to address global challenges such as climate change, and what the Seven wore during the speech became the topic of social media.

Although it may seem minor, the impact of people’s wardrobes on the climate is quite immense, as the fashion industry emits harmful gases while lacking proper disposal methods. The group donned upcycling suits on the catwalk to tackle the climate crisis, drawing many eyes to the lingering problem.

The companions of the group had eco-friendly fashion brand suits from Kolon Industries Re; Code tailored to reflect the purpose of the occasion.

The South Korean brand was established in 2012 and is considering the fashion of recycling, referring to taking old or worn out clothing to create new duds.

“To our surprise, Big Hit contacted our company and asked if we (Re; Code) could come up with nature-friendly suits for BTS. Both sides were on the same page in terms of climate change because our business is a nature-friendly business, which is why we wanted to be part of the difference, ”a Kolon official told the Korea Herald.

During the group’s seven-minute speech, J-Hope said, “Everyone agrees that climate change is a big problem, but it’s not easy to talk about the best solution. ”

Additionally, the group wore rainbow crystal Swarovski lapel pins representing the UN SDGs, as the brand partnered with a sustainable fashion project in 2019.

But this wasn’t the first time BTS has proven that small actions can have an impact. Although the boy group spends much of their time abroad, they never lost touch with their roots in spreading Korean culture around the world.

(Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Korea)

(Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Korea)

As Suga and Jungkook once said in an interview, they want to spread Korean culture to the global audience – artists have often embedded Korean traditions into their music and they like to wear hanbok, Korea’s traditional costume. .

With the megahit song “Idol,” the K-pop superstar began to spread K-culture globally.

Filled with traditional elements, they revealed the aesthetic of hanbok beauty to the world through the group’s black hanbok lined with gold. It was also later revealed that the modern style clothing was the work of famous hanbok designer Baek Oak-soo.

Three years ago, Korean Wave torchbearers wore the traditional hanbok during their 20-minute set at the 2018 Melon Music Awards. As the “Idol” tune passed, Jimin donned a modernized black version of the garment, appearing on stage and dancing “buchaechum”, a traditional form of Korean dance using fans. Jungkook mixed the old and the new by slipping into a pair of Nike Air Jordans.

V’s very early debut on the small screen also included hanbok. He appeared in the KBS drama series “Hwarang: The Poet Warrior Youth”, which revolved around a story set during the Kingdom of Silla, in a supporting role.

Additionally, an unwashed hanbok worn by Jimin during a performance on NBC’s “The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon” was slated to go under hammer in April. The opening bid was set at around 5 million won ($ 4,480), but it was later withdrawn after designer Kim Ri-eul felt pressure to sell it too much.

And as the group gained popularity on the global music scene, BTS began to focus on the fashion industry. In April, the luxury brand Louis Vuitton chose the seven superstars as ambassadors for the house.

(Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Korea)

(Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Korea)

“I am delighted that BTS is joining Louis Vuitton today,” said Virgil Abloh, artistic director of Louis Vuitton for men, welcoming the group to its latest roster. He expressed his enthusiasm by explaining how he “looks forward to this wonderful partnership which adds a modern chapter to the House, fusing luxury and contemporary culture”.

The partnership with the famous atelier was no surprise as the pop icons hinted at a possible collaboration when they dressed in Louis Vuitton for the 2021 Grammy Awards. The reason was simple: BTS has maintained a vogue. which corresponds to their common status as stars of the music scene.

“I can’t wait to share all of the very exciting projects we are working on,” added the director.

A spin-off fashion film for the Fall / Winter 2021 menswear collection, which BTS modeled, marked the brand’s first major project.

(Screenshot by GQ Magazine UK)

In 2019, the French house Dior also plunged into the group’s stage outfits. BTS made the fashion headlines with bespoke Dior stage wear created by Kim Jones, the brand’s artistic director for the men’s collection. The group’s world touring outfit included jackets, cargo pants and shirts, and the harnesses were created with Japanese illustrator Hajime Sorayama.

By Park Jun-hee ([email protected])


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Fashion style

6 books on how fashion contributes to societal change


Snobs may laugh and say you have style or you don’t; fashion experts know better. They assure us that, like most things, dressing according to your personal style can be learned. What better way to do that than through books that follow trends and choose what’s cool or hot, and are full of stories about how unique ideas are born and translated into fabric as well as who influenced what. .

Fashion is a barometer of the times, with attentive designers, artisans and icons pulling threads from what they see and know and weaving them into garments that reflect what is happening around them, which it is rebellion, celebration or innovation. They embellish their designs with color and verve and wear pieces that people identify with and want to wear. After all, as Marc Jacobs said, “clothes are nothing until someone lives in them”.

The United States of Fashion: A New Atlas of American Style

Canceled catwalks and empty catwalks in fashion capitals last year have designers looking for inspiration in their own backyards, literally. An affirmative outcome of the pandemic is a chorus of fresh voices speaking about comfortable clothing, sustainable materials, caring for the Earth, pivoting to stay relevant, and reaching customers digitally.

Vogue America‘s The United States of Fashion captures the stories of new designers across the country who, through images and words, share how they interpret and identify with today’s fashion. The book is the result of a project of the same name launched by the magazine in February, to highlight locally flourishing creations and crafts.

Written by Vogue editors who have traveled from coast to coast, it lists the innovations and companies that define American fashion – which has evolved under difficult circumstances, with consumers wanting more conscious clothing and comfort but spending less, because the coronavirus is changing the way people live, work, shop and play.

Dressing the Resistance by Camille Benda

Focusing on what Mahatma Gandhi wore over the years, the Gandhi Book Center notes that he traded coats, pants and hats for a lungi (traditional garment worn around the waist), then a dhoti (long loincloth wrapped around the hips and thighs, with one end pulled up between the legs and tucked into the waistband) before moving on to a khadi wrap, a hand-spun cotton fabric, which symbolized India’s struggle for independence.

Clothing may not fit the man, but it can certainly spark activism and spur social change, writes costume designer and fashion historian Benda in Dress the Resistance (available from October 19). American suffragists marching to the beat of “Deeds Not Words” wore dresses made from old newspapers printed with voting slogans. Indian farmers wore their wives’ saris to stage sit-ins on the railroad tracks. Safety pins hanging from earlobes or attached to ragged jackets were considered “a cultural expression of angst, emotion and volume,” Billboard magazine said of the punk movement.

From rebellions in Roman times to women crying #MeToo today, clothing, textiles and costumes are seen as tools to agitate for change. Protest fashion – from uniforms and t-shirts to headbands and hats – galvanizes support and communicates discontent. A newspaper article titled “Dressing for Freedom” described Rosa Parks as “impeccably dressed in tailored clothing” when she was arrested in 1955 in Montgomery, Ala., For breaking a separate seating law in public buses. His calm style and dignified demeanor, emphasized by the organizers of the event, helped fuel the struggle for social equality.

Still, she wore it: 50 iconic fashion moments by Ann Shen

Women who dare, wear. In Nonetheless, she wore it, writer and illustrator Ann Shen takes us back to specific times in years gone by when people ignored social norms and chose clothes they liked and lifestyles that were appropriate, paving the way for radical change.

After World War I, American women joined the workforce in droves, gained the right to vote, and had easier access to mobility, thanks to the automobile. These factors are said to have shaped the flapper dress – straight, loose-fitting outfits with a waistline at the hips and a hem that falls between the calf and knee, leaving the arms bare. Young flappers flaunted their “outrageous and immoral” lifestyle in these dresses as they pushed for economic, political and sexual freedom.

The bikini introduced by French designer Louis Réard in 1946, the first war-free summer in years, was named after Bikini Atoll in the Pacific Ocean where the United States tested the impact of atomic bombs on warships. Its liberating effect on women’s swimsuits has gone around the world. To quote French fashion historian Olivier Saillard, “the power of women, not the power of fashion” was the reason these outrageous pieces of fabric spread.

Long before #BlackLivesMatter, the voluminous Afro symbolized rebellion, pride, and empowerment during the Black is Beautiful movement of the mid-1960s. In the decades that followed, individuals made personal statements through fashion, either loud – Madonna flaunted her sexuality on stage in her Cone Bra corset designed by Jean Paul Gaultier – or quietly – the late United States Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg wore elaborate frills over her black dresses that were saying the style and what she thought of some people in power. Between her “dissident” necklace and her “majority opinion” necklace, she has been seen, and surely heard.

Designing Motherhood: The Things That Make and Break Our Births by Michelle Millar Fisher and Amber Winick

This book had its seed in the 1956 [Einar] Egnell SMB breast pump made by the Swedish engineer that Millar Fisher, curatorial assistant at the Museum of Modern Art in New York in 2015, attempted to acquire for his collection. Nothing came of it, but she, along with design historian Winick, began to examine the connection between reproduction and design. This led to the birth of Design motherhood, as well as an exhibition of the same title at the Mütter Museum in Philadelphia, USA, which opened in May and will run until next May.

The authors examine more than 80 objects designed as “iconic, conceptual, archaic, titillating, emotionally charged, or just plain weird,” including home pregnancy test kits, pregnancy pillows, the tie-up skirt. size that women wore in the 1950s for hiding. baby bumps, gender revealing cakes, baby carriers and babywearing in traditional cultures, wooden baby boxes that the Finnish government gave to pregnant women, nursing pods and, of course, breast pumps.

History and history, interspersed with historic photographs, drawings and advertisements, highlight how design and objects have shaped women’s reproductive experiences and the relationship between people and babies over the past century.

Extraordinary Voyages: Louis Vuitton by Francisca Mattéoli

Luxury travel and fashionable gear go hand in hand, and Louis Vuitton combines the two with panache. The brand itself had a foot in the journey, when its eponymous founder (1821-1892) left his hamlet of Jura, France, at age 13 and walked to Paris. The 400 km trip took two years and he did odd jobs to pay his expenses.

Extraordinary trips is far from the Louis Vuitton trek. This book edited by the house and Atelier EXB takes readers across the world by sea, rail or air and land, through 50 true stories from the end of the 19th and the beginning of the 20th century. Adventurers drawn to modern modes of transportation have boarded trains, liners, junks, automobiles, half-tracks, zeppelins, airplanes and spaceships in search of new experiences. Those who traveled in style took with them trunks, suitcases and hat boxes bearing the iconic LV monogram.

Illustrated with Louis Vuitton archive images, old photographs and travel posters, Extraordinary trips travels alongside explorers, aristocrats, artists and hedonistic globetrotters who have taken to the skies “to escape into a world of dreams come true”, writes Mattéoli. It tells the story of travel and the history of the luggage of the French brand, since its founding in 1854 by the young Louis, who was 17 years the apprentice of master trunk-maker Romain Maréchal.

Peter Lindbergh: on fashion photography

When Peter Lindbergh (1944-2019) looked through his lens at women, he saw raw beauty enhanced by personality. When he pressed the shutter, he captured real people telling real stories. The German fashion photographer avoided stereotypical images of models, movie stars and celebrities and instead depicted them in natural settings and simple clothes and with minimal makeup, breaking the mold of perfect poses. weighed down by glitter, big hair and cosmetics.

In this book he talks about iconic images he took for various magazines, especially the first by Anna Wintour. Vogue America cover in November 1988 featuring Israeli model Michaela Bercu – he broke all the rules and Wintour felt “the winds of change” – and working with the biggest names in the industry as well as “extremely intelligent women with strong personalities who knew exactly what they wanted. They were also free from social conventions. ”He referred, in the online magazine LensCulture, to Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Tatjana Patitz and Christy Turlington, New Faces which he transformed into models with his series White Shirts shot on a Malibu beach in 1988.

This special edition of Peter Lindbergh: on fashion photography has over 300 images, many unpublished, collected from his 40 year career and a 2016 adaptation Vogue interview on his “great supermodel moment” and the personalities who personified the new woman of the 90s. The man who boldly changed the landscape of fashion photography has exhibited at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, at the Center Pompidou in Paris, the Museum of Contemporary Art in Berlin and the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts in Moscow and various other venues.

This article first appeared on September 20, 2021 in The Edge Malaysia.


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Fashion brand

A “reset”? Not at Paris Fashion Week


On the final evening of Paris Fashion Week, Louis Vuitton, the world’s largest luxury brand in terms of sales, invested a passage in the courtyard of the Louvre, where dozens of crystal chandeliers hung above of a double row of large glass mirrors at the Palace of Versailles.

The models stepped out to the sound of a turret clock, dressed in wide, bouncy satchel skirts and woolen silk-cuffed blazers, lace dresses layered over blue jeans, and sporty lace-up boots in fluorescent satin. These were complex and intriguing in their unusual proportions and flowing mesh of at least three centuries of dress styles. Designer Nicolas Ghesquière called it “the big ball of time “.

Then came another woman carrying a fabric banner that said “Overconsumption = Extinction”. She seemed to be a part of the show at first – until she stopped at the end of the track and was brutally abducted by security guards. This cast a chill over the rest of the event; the models did not make a second appearance for the finale, and when Ghesquière came to bow out, he was accompanied by a bodyguard.

Although a shame for the hundreds of people who had worked on the collection, for a climatic event, the timing and location was appropriate. There was something deeply unsettling about the return of these lavish displays of brand power during Fashion Weeks; of the sudden reappearance of designers, buyers and journalists (myself included) who, just over a year ago, called for a ‘reset’ of the fashion system – fewer catwalks, fewer creative exhaustion and a lower carbon footprint.

At Louis Vuitton, creative director Nicolas Ghesquière mixes past and present references. . . © Giovanni Giannoni

. . . like dresses adorned with velvet and lace combined with open-toe satin boots © Giovanni Giannoni

Bruno Sialelli from Lanvin presented playful dresses covered with a daisy print. . .

. . . alongside simpler and more sensual babydolls

Of course, commercially this makes sense. On the contrary, the last year and a half has proven just how well oiled the luxury machine is, especially among the industry mega brands. Despite the resurgence of Covid-19 in China, shares of LVMH, Kering and Hermès are trading at near historic levels. Shows are making a comeback as they boost sales and media attention.

Chanel Fashion President Bruno Pavlovsky saw it coming. In an interview during France’s first lockdown last year, he said he saw no reason for an overhaul of the fashion calendar; that six fashion shows a year worked well for Chanel before the pandemic and would continue to perform for the company after it.

Bar chart of 'soft luxury' * market share, Europe and UK only (%) showing major labels tightening their grip

“We have the strongest loyal local customer base we’ve ever had at Chanel,” he says now, speaking ahead of the brand’s Spring / Summer 2022 show. Although operating profits fell 41% between 2019 and 2020, Pavlovsky says travel restrictions have given the brand’s boutiques the opportunity to really listen to what local shoppers want – which, above all, is to “feel privileged”. Sales, which were already doing “very well” in China, the United States and in pockets like Dubai, are also picking up in Europe, where American tourists have started flocking to Chanel stores again this summer, he adds. .

This season, Creative Director Virginie Viard revisited Chanel’s heyday of the 1980s and 1990s, erecting a catwalk above the audience and surrounding them with old-fashioned photographers. The models were grinning and spinning like ’90s supers in simple black swimwear trimmed with sparkling white tweed skirts accented with chain sashes and flowing black chiffon dresses printed with butterfly wings.

It was elegant but not very exciting, devoid of the irony and wit that once animated the house’s iconic gold chains and tweed jackets under the late Karl Lagerfeld. Without them, these pieces are simply nostalgic.

At Chanel, Virginie Viard returned to the brand’s 80s collections with swimsuits and sports bras. . .

. . . alongside short pink dresses, multicolored jackets and denim suits

Hermès enlisted artist Flora Moscovici to create the atmospheric, orange-tinted backdrop for the show. . .

. . . for a collection of refined leather pieces in black, white, yellow and earth tones

It does not matter. Outside the pandemic period, Chanel’s ready-to-wear sales continued to climb under Viard. Chinese customers of the brand particularly appreciate its feminine approach, Pavlovsky says.

Same story at Hermès, where Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski showed the know-how of the house in a private jet terminal through smooth black leather suits and chiffon dresses delicately embellished with tiny glass beads, and small bags cylindrical with luxuriously thick silver handles. There is little need for Vanhee-Cybulski to push the limits on the podium; sales at Hermès have already exceeded pre-pandemic levels.

Givenchy designer Matthew Williams feels the need to push the boundaries – or at least define what the LVMH-owned house represents following the departure of Clare Waight Keller last year. For her first physical show, held in an arena northwest of Paris, a giant and expensive oculus was suspended from the ceiling, bathing in glowing white light the models dressed in the associated black neoprene riding vests. to stretch waders. , and the men in utility vests layered over narrow-cut pants.

There were a few decent looks here – cropped pantsuits and pictorial partings created in collaboration with Josh Smith in particular – but for the most part, this collection seemed to tread territory already occupied by other designers. Maybe that will develop when Williams starts experimenting with high fashion for her debut in January.

Givenchy’s creative director Matthew Williams mixed corsets and basques in tulle. . .

. . . with traditional couture fabrics and thigh-low clogs

At Miu Mui, Miuccia Prada revolutionized the preppy style by lowering the waist and showing off logo underwear. . . © Monique Feudi

. . . and cropping sweaters and shirts to reveal the models’ naked bellies © Monica Feudi

Miu Miu’s identity has at times been obscured by her sister brand Prada, but that is starting to change now that Raf Simons is co-designing Prada. “Before, I could have half of me in one place, half of me in the other,” Miuccia Prada told the FT earlier this year. “Now all of me is up to Miu Miu. This should be good for Miu Miu.

It was a very good collection, full of the beloved Miuccia signatures that recently disappeared from Prada: pleated schoolgirl skirts with chunky V-neck jumpers and neat straight jackets, sheer floral-appliquéd cocktail dresses. with gray ribbed socks and moccasins. These have been featured with bare bellies and the shortest skirts this season, but their deliberately awkward proportions have elevated them above conventional sensuality.

It was also reassuring to see such a wearable collection by Stella McCartney, whose curvy bodysuits, mushroom-print dresses, and lively, easy-going pantsuits were accompanied by little black bags made from mycelium, an alternative to cultured leather. laboratory. Although more expensive than her typical range, “it’s definitely cheaper than exotic skins,” she said. “And it doesn’t kill any animals, it’s not cutting down trees, it’s amazing technology that is truly the future of fashion.”

Stella McCartney has paired bodycon tops, cutouts and dresses with relaxed pants, knits and blazers. . .

. . . and launched the Frayme Mylo, a mushroom leather handbag

Models and guests paraded a Hollywood-style red carpet at Balenciaga. . .

. . . before entering a theater to enjoy the premiere of ‘The Simpsons I Balenciaga’

Not all shows marked a return to business as usual. A red carpet and a crowd of photographers greeted guests in front of the Théâtre du Châtelet, where Balenciaga gave his show. All the standard stuff, until the guests were seated inside, where the “show” turned out to be the red carpet itself, broadcast live on stage. Here, in relentless high definition, a mix of real celebrities – Cardi B, Elliot Page, Isabelle Huppert – took on camera-friendly poses alongside unwitting reporters, laughing and clapping inside the theater. Soon the looks of the collection began to appear, adjusted to the actors, the Balenciaga staff and various “friends” of the house.

It was a careful dismantling of the boundaries between performers and audiences that has also been expertly choreographed this season by Francesco Risso de Marni and Pierpaolo Piccioli from Valentino. The latter took his show to the streets, where students and audiences alike drank in the beautiful mix of jeweled and citrus-hued partings and silk shirts turned into dresses. Customers were free to stay and dine in restaurants afterward, thanks to Valentino. “Inclusiveness and humanity is what I want to offer today,” he said.

Valentino’s Pierpaolo Piccioli reinterpreted classic couture in extravagant volumes and acrylic colors. . .

. . . and paired feathered looks with practical combat boots

Paris Fashion Week ended with a tribute to AZ Factory’s Alber Elbaz, who died in April. The show featured pieces from various fashion houses, including Valentino. . © imaxtree

. . . as well as drawings by Elbaz himself © imaxtree

The sense of community was also palpable at the AZ Factory memorial show for the late Alber Elbaz, where 47 designers created looks for an audience including his partner, Alex Koo, and France’s first lady, Brigitte Macron.

Return to Balenciaga. Just as the show seemed to end, the lights dimmed and on screen appeared Homer Simpson, desperate to secure something – anything – from the tag as a birthday present for his suffering wife. for a long time, Marge. The ironic film culminated with a Balenciaga show in Paris, modeled by the people of Springfield. The company described it as “the latest in a progression of activations that push some established boundaries between fashion and other forms of entertainment, culture and technology, moving the brand away from an easily defined category.”

I’m not sure the experience pulled Balenciaga out of “easily definable” categories, but it was fun, clever, and surprising. Everything you hope a physical spectacle should be. Because right now they’re not going anywhere.

To follow @financialtimefashion on Instagram to first discover our latest stories



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French fashion

Climate activist storms the catwalk at Paris Fashion Week


Climate activists from Extinction Rebellion stormed the catwalk at the Louis Vuitton show at Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday to condemn the industry’s damage to the environment.

“Overconsumption = extinction” read a banner carried by a protester of the activist group for climate change.

She climbed the catwalk in the Louvre Art Gallery as models showed off the latest styles. She was then taken away by security agents, AFP reported.

Extinction Rebellion, Friends of the Earth and Youth For Climate said around 30 people were involved in planning the protest, two of whom were arrested.

They called on the government to impose “an immediate drop in production levels in the sector, given that 42 garments were sold per person in France in 2019”.

In the front row, the stars of French cinema Catherine Deneuve and Isabelle Huppert hardly budged, while some members of the Arnault family, sitting next to the CEO and president of LVMH, Bernard Arnault, took a look at each other. .

The disturbance hardly interrupted the flow of models, who raced down the runway in a corridor of the Louvre to dramatic organ music punctuated by the sounds of bells.

The show had a punk flavor, with sleeves ripped from costume jackets leaving the arms bare, and accessories such as studded boots and chainmail headdresses.

Friends of the Earth France have declared that they have chosen the LVMH label to shine the spotlight on the issue of overconsumption.

“LVMH is the world leader in luxury and has a responsibility for the trends that push the textile industry to constantly renew collections faster and produce more,” spokeswoman Alma Dufour told Reuters.

Updated: October 7, 2021, 12:18 a.m.


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French fashion

Top artistic talents celebrate Louis Vuitton’s 200th anniversary with unique trunks


In honor of the 200th anniversary of the late Louis Vuitton, 200 global creative talents have joined forces with his eponymous fashion and luxury house to participate in 200 Louis, an open project that asks participants to artistically transform a box with the same dimensions than the original Louis Vuitton trunk. Since August 4, the trunks have been digitized and displayed in the windows of Louis Vuitton boutiques around the world with new pieces revealed daily.

Louis Vuitton launched its decades-long quest to reinvent the luggage industry in 1837 and by the late 1850s it had produced Gris Trianon, the first trunk to be closed with a flat lid. Since then, the trunk has served as the symbol of the iconic fashion and accessories house, making its tribute to 200 Louis the most special celebratory initiative.

A historic flat trunk made in 1879 in the Gris Trianon canvas.

Initially, each creative was given a box measuring approximately 19 x 19 x 39 inches (50 x 50 x 100 centimeters) and was completely free to transform it as they liked, on any medium. Visionaries attending 200 Louis range from artists to astronauts to Paralympic swimmers and include Jwan Josef, Alex Israel, Jean-Michel Othoniel and more.

The carte blanche mission sparked a flood of creativity. The “trunks” revealed so far have been both deconstructed and added, and each reflects the personal style or artistic vision of its creator. French architect Arthur Mamou-Mani, for example, transformed his box into “the hive”, creating a 3D printed network that emerges from it. Regarding its creation, Mamou-Mani declares: “The Hive celebrates Louis Vuitton’s spirit of innovation while meeting our common challenges for the future”.

To support 200 Louis, Louis Vuitton has pledged to donate 10,000 euros in the name of each participant, ie a donation of two million euros in total, to associations aiming to promote the arts to young people and disadvantaged communities. This promise of well-being is as important as the artistic expressions themselves, which prove that creativity can be unleashed in anyone when invited – and are a relevant way to celebrate a brand’s founding story. luxury which also revolutionized high fashion.

Want more culture? Register now to receive the Cultured newsletter, a bi-weekly guide to what’s new and next steps in art, architecture, design and more.


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French fashion

Parish Fashion Week returns after virus hiatus


2 October 2021 GMT

Women wearing sunglasses and body-hugging models paraded down a sleek black runway under a glowing orange Eiffel Tower at night.

Strands of fringe sprang from the hem of a lemon-yellow creation, her model clutching a shiny handbag adorned with safety pins.

The eyes of the fashion world were even more focused than usual on the ever-chic French capital in recent days, as the designers showed off their latest work for Paris Fashion Week after going mostly virtual for a year due to of the coronavirus pandemic.

While most of this season’s 97 shows have remained online as the country recovers from another wave of COVID-19 infections in the summer, about a third have opted for a physical return to the track, including industry heavyweights from Chanel and Hermès to Louis Vuitton and Yves Saint-Laurent.

They chose an eclectic collection of iconic backdrops – alongside the gothic Notre-Dame cathedral and the serene Seine; the 16th century Tuileries garden lined with trees in central Paris; the glassy, ​​bulbous globe of the La Seine Musicale concert complex. After a parade in the trendy Marais district, models strutted through the streets outside to the enthusiastic cheers of surprised passers-by.

Thousands of camera-happy viewers as well as New York fashion editors newly able to cross the Atlantic after pandemic travel restrictions between Europe and the United States were eased were in attendance.

The event was not lacking in star power either, with appearances like Gillian Anderson, Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Catherine Deneuve, Roger Federer, Giveon, Vanessa Kirby, Demi Moore and Rosamund Pike.

Full coverage: Photography

France’s First Lady Brigitte Macron joined senior officials one evening at the Hôtel des Invalides for the presentation of a new collection by Italian designer Fabio Porlod featuring female amputees and injured women. The Ministry of Defense described the initiative as “part of a charity evening whose funds raised will improve the living environment of seriously wounded war victims, victims of attacks and people hospitalized at the National Institution. invalidities”.



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Fashion brand

“A first in the history of fashion”


MILAN – Milan Fashion Week ended with official confirmation of what could be the biggest trend in the fashion world right now – not bangs (although there are plenty of them) or bracelets biceps (ditto) or even bikini tops (still strong), but more like power mash-ups.

Introducing Fendace, aka Fendi by Versace, or Versace by Fendi, the pre-spring 2022 pop-up collections created by Kim Jones, artistic director of Fendi womenswear and Silvia Venturini Fendi, Fendi menswear designer, and Donatella Versace from Versace, in which the designers tried their hand at each other’s home and then showed the results on the runway. The name may have been created for fun, but it’s no joke.

“This is a first in the history of fashion,” Ms. Versace said, with some hyperbole, in a press release. She described the experience as “us swapping roles”.

Think of it as a collaboration raised to the nth degree (but don’t dare call it collaboration, because it was so 2019). Or the opposite of conscious decoupling, just the short-term style version. It’s when two brands in the same fashion category decide that, rather than competing, they will start playing with each other. Express and with permission.

Gucci pitched the idea in April when its designer, Alessandro Michele, “hacked” its sister brand Balenciaga (see, no “collaboration”) for the main Gucci collection; Balenciaga returned the favor in June. Then Jean Paul Gaultier, the brand not the man, announced that after Mr. Gaultier’s retirement, each fashion show would be created by a different guest designer interpreting the brand’s signatures: in July, it was Chitose Abe from Sacai; the next one will be Glenn Martens of Y / Project and Diesel. Ms Abe also teamed up with Fendi’s Mr Jones on his other gig, as artistic director of Dior Men’s, to create a capsule collection for men in June.

Unlike projects formerly known as collaborations, which tended to feature brands from different parts of the fashion world (haute couture and mass market names; haute couture and streetwear; haute couture and outdoor recreation ) and that worked because the match had such a bad -that’s-cool vibe, it’s a meeting of equals. Designed to probe the legacy and signatures of each, to better project them in a whole new light.

After all, it’s getting harder and harder to make these partnerships stand out, now that virtually all influencers have a collaboration and live in a collaborative house. You have to keep pushing the concept.

And in theory, Versace and Fendi took the idea and raised one: to unveil their swap-a-doodle at the last minute (although it’s been in the works since around February) on a supposedly secret show (except that the news had leaked quite widely the week before) and not as two brands in the same luxury team like Gucci and Balenciaga, both owned by Kering, but two brands in completely different conglomerates (Capri Holdings for Versace and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton for Dior).

So funny! So cross pollination! So inside the fashion nod, given that it was rumored that Mr. Jones would get an official appointment as Ms. Versace’s heir in 2017, before he landed his job at Dior and that she decides to stay in charge a little longer.

And, in the end, so hard to tell the difference. It was even pretty hard to tell the difference between that and the Versace show earlier in the week.

Fendace’s biggest surprise was how unsurprising it was – and how overwhelming the Versace aesthetic was. Maybe there was a little more tailoring in the Versace by Fendi section, spliced ​​and inlaid with scarf prints; a little more attention to craftsmanship, especially in a rococo fan print strapless column mini dress encrusted with embroidery. But essentially, Fendi’s Versace looked very Versace – and Versace’s Fendi also looked very Versace. Although with more “F” logos.

This was, in part, because there are so many identifiable tropes associated with the house founded by Gianni: not just symbols like Greek key prints and baroque curves, but safety pins and chain mail. , black and gold, gender and stylus dominance (also hair, witness the Donatella wigs in the Fendi by Versace section). Whereas, if you scour the mind of the beehive in search of Fendi semiology, you mostly get a letter of the alphabet. Some complementary browns, two-tone. And fur, of course, which Versace has officially given up on.

Plus, both parties adore an original model: Shalom Harlow, Amber Valletta and Kate Moss closed the Versace by Fendi section; Naomi Campbell, the Fendi of Versace. Kristen McMenamy and Karen Elson have also made appearances, as have others.

In order for the collaborations – or, to be more precise, the “celebration of Italian fashion and an upheaval of the established order of things” described in the Fendace press release – to reach the level of greatness, there has to be a tension, rather than just the comfort, involved; a need for negotiation between opposing aesthetics which gives rise to a new way of seeing, pushing designers out of their comfort zone.

What makes these couples exciting is the meeting of two otherwise antithetical minds and stories, a fabric tug of war that creates a chimera so new that it could potentially become a myth.

Otherwise, it’s just mutual appreciation and marketing. Or a job audition.


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French fashion

How designers are returning the Swatch to the Toile de Jouy


How exactly did a thick cotton fabric scalloped with frolicking shepherds, haystacks and pastoral merriment in general become one of today’s greatest design fasteners?

We’re talking toile de Jouy, the classic 18th-century French printed textile with single-color repeating patterns. Before delving into its history, we know that you are asking yourself: what is the difference between the toile and the toile de Jouy? None, really, at least in France. Full name Jouy canvas refers to the fabric of Jouy-en-Josas, a city on the outskirts of Paris, where Christophe-Philippe Oberkampf opened a factory producing the fabric style in 1760, and where today there is a museum of the toile de Jouy. (Although Oberkampf was the main manufacturer at the time – their factory printed 30,000 different designs between 1760 and 1812 – there were many other manufacturers.)

In France, toile de Jouy has become the accepted generic name for the style. In most English speaking countries, the style of fabric has been shortened to the word canvas. But, out of purism, let’s stay in toile de Jouy (pronounced zhoo-ee) here. The style was also prevalent in Ireland and India in the 18th century. It was Marie-Antoinette who helped to make the toile de Jouy trendy during her iconic reign. Considering the connection to the late queen, it is only natural that the fabric – used as wall covering and upholstery – was, in its early days, the decor of the aristocrats’ house.

Fast forward a century or two, after the Revolution, fabric was still a reliable shortcut to chic French interiors. But less among the castle as a whole (those who still had their heads, anyway) and more on the budding middle class. In the mid-1950s, you would be more likely to find the fabric cladding walls in the small Parisian hotels on the left bank. Think about the room Audrey Hepburn’s character retreated to in the 1963 film Charade with nothing but her Louis Vuitton luggage in her name, after her supposedly millionaire husband abandoned her. The play was not fabulously rich, but strangely charming and very French.

The Toile de Jouy has continued to convey a certain design credit over the decades. Remember Zooey Deschanel’s charming Los Angeles pad in 500 summer days, the first dream apartment of every millennium? The walls were covered with toile de Jouy. The classic model has rarely declined in popularity. (Master class even offers a course on the toile de Jouy.) It’s also a fashion moment this year, as evidenced by Dior Spring 2021 collection of candles, tableware, tote bags and clothing in a classic print. (French heritage children’s t-shirt brand Petit Bateau’s the new toile de Jouy print on the underwear was another favorite reinterpretation this year.) But it was rapper Lil Nas X’s drama outfit for the BET Awards, a magnificent ball gown by the Italian designer Andrea Grossi, that put the fabric in the spotlight.

Although people assume it is about grazing sheep in the countryside, the truth is that the web has always been used to criticize or comment on contemporary socio-political events. The growing popularity of printing in the 18th century sparked a trend for figurative designs depicting important news and current events. Oberkampf took advantage of consumers’ thirst for the craze. Coupled with the cutting edge production techniques (for the time) of his textile factory, he created a buzzing name for himself with his canvas prints depicting the important events of the day. When the first hot air balloon took off, a Hot Air Balloon print with balloons became very popular.



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Fashion style

The 7 most expensive fashion pieces from Kareena Kapoor’s closet


There is nothing too basic for Bollywood and even the most basic things in a Bollywood celebrity’s closet have a certain touch of luxury. Kareena Kapoor, for her part, makes even the most basic things in her closet look so beautiful and dare to believe they don’t have hanging luxury prices. From handbags to sunglasses, Kareena Kapoor is obsessed with everything designer-related and she certainly has a fabulous collection under her belt. We already know how effortlessly chic her style is, but it’s her love for luxury that we’re going to delve into on her birthday today. Handbags, t-shirts and everything in between, Kareena Kapoor’s love for luxury never ends.

Also Read: Kareena Kapoor Relives Her Sunny Maldives Days In A Chic Black Bikini

Handbags of course have a special place in her closet, no surprise. The Hermes Birkin handbag is a Bollywood favorite for obvious reasons and the Rs 7 Lakh is a classic tote for Kareena’s travel or shopping dates. If his Christian Louboutin New Very Prive is worth Rs 64,440.

Kareena Kapoor at Manish Malhotra.

There isn’t a single day during either of her pregnancies that she hasn’t killed off by looking like a real style diva. The olive green one-shoulder Deme Love she wore for one of her nights on the town lives in our heads without rent. Sure, the thigh slit turns heads, but we have our eyes set on her Louis Vuitton Monogram Eclipse clutch worth Rs 2.1 Lakh.

A tote is one of the most practical handbags imaginable and Kareena thinks her Christian Dior Saddle Tote Rs 3 Lakh bag is just what she needed when traveling to the Maldives or on special occasions. tropical vacation.

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Kareena Kapoor at the airport

Also Read: Kareena Kapoor Hikes Denim-On-Denim Road To Airport, But Not Without Her Lakh Dior Rs 3 Tote

It is no surprise that Kareena Kapoor adores her designer handbags and we are sure she has a soft spot for the classic Dior monogram as we spotted the Dior Bobby worth Rs 2.8 Lakh it n not too long ago when she spent a “perfect Sunday” with her best friends.

Kareena Kapoor has a huge collection of handbags and the more we discover her, the more envious we become. Her handbag choices are actually a great excuse for her to pair up with her sister as when they were both spotted carrying matching Balenciaga Neo Classic handbags in London priced at Rs 2.2 Lakh.

To be Kareena’s best friends all you need is a Gucci tank top priced at Rs 56,727 and while it may seem like a distant dream, there is no tax on dreaming big. not?

Bollywood is obsessed with Louis Vuitton’s basic black, but even if it’s just a simple black mask, the price is anything but that. Rs 26,000 is the price of this basic black mask and if it goes well with any monochrome look, we totally support it!

Also read: Kareena Kapoor in a stylish yellow cardigan is the sun even on a rainy day

Is there more space to fit in another Louis Vuitton handbag worth Rs 3.4 Lakh?

We wish Kareena Kapoor many years of stylish happiness in the Maldives and beyond.

To shop for fashion on Amazon, click here.

Disclaimer: The Swirlster Picks team is writing about things we think you’ll like. Swirlster has affiliate partnerships, so we get a share of the revenue from your purchase.



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Fashion style

In the wardrobe of activist and content creator, Deni Todorovic


“Before I went nonbinary, I felt like I had to ‘fit in’ with the fashion binary.”

We know personal style is a journey (I’m looking at you, Tumblr years), so we’ve introduced a new series Hey, I like your style! delve into the fashion psyche of our favorite designers. We are talking about the good, the bad and the 2007.

While the internet has made our fashion icons closer than ever before, even the simplest outfits have come from a closet with (well dressed) skeletons. Clickable product labels, photo archives and the lives told in 30-second clips just don’t tell the whole story.


For more fashion news, photoshoots, articles and reports, visit our Fashion section.


These are the stories behind wardrobes, exploring how we develop our own personal style. There is genius in the way we choose to express ourselves and at FJ we know that every outfit has a story.

This week, we dive into the wardrobe of Geelong-based content creator and LGBTQIA + activist, Deni Todorović. When not serving a look, Deni uses her 50,000-strong follower platform for queer education, heartwarming storytelling, and stunning backyard choreography (please watch this performance by Lizzie McGuire).

As varied and wide as their vibrant personalities, their styles range from flowing tutus and t-shirts to sleek monochrome work wear. With a penchant for 10cm heels, colorful streetwear and fabulous bodysuits (a wardrobe staple), Deni’s wardrobe never gets boring.

Who are you and what do you like to wear?

My name is Deni, my pronouns are they / them and I am an LGBTQIA + activist and content creator. I like to wear things that make me feel. Whether cheerful, confident, sexy, mysterious or daring, fashion is all about feeling to me.

What does your style evolution look like? Do you feel like you’ve gained confidence in the way you dress?

My style evolution has been quite varied and broad, I always said that I had a huge duality in my way of dressing. I would describe it as Carrie Bradshaw has a baby with a hip-hop obsessed boy and then they all walk into Kmart together.
It’s eclectic, it’s high low, it’s streetwear with a touch of couture.

Personal style is a journey. Have you ever felt the need to fit into a particular fashion company?

Before becoming non-binary, I felt like I had to “integrate” the fashion binary. I had always wanted to wear women’s clothes, but found it difficult to fit them into my wardrobe without looking like a costume.

As a stylist and fashion editor, I also felt compelled to conform to what the industry saw as the proper way for a fashion editor to dress. So I wore a lot of clean, monochrome lines for a while.

Take us back to those tough teenage years. Do you have any fashion regrets?

I’ve had a lot of tough fashion times – but none that I regret. I think the personal style is an evolution, but maybe I could have gone a little lighter on the hair gel! I would wake up every morning half an hour earlier to straighten my hair and pluck it to great lengths. It really was the look of the 2000s.

What are the most expensive and cheapest items in your wardrobe?

My wardrobe is incredibly varied and I live a lot by the philosophy that it’s not about the label on the back of the piece, but how you wear it.

That said, the older I get, the more I appreciate quality and invest in timeless pieces. My most expensive item is a very beautiful Louis Vuitton handbag that my parents gave me as a gift last year to celebrate milestones in my career.

The cheapest things probably all come from Kmart as it really is my favorite place to shop and there is so much you can do with their pieces.

What’s the most significant fashion piece you own?

I have a pair of shoes that my grandmother gave me when I was very young. This is actually a decorative piece that she kept in her living room, based on a traditional Serbian moccasin / slipper. They are in burnt orange velvet and embellished with golden pearls. They are incredibly sentimental and I keep them in a box for luck.

What’s in your cart right now?

I was sitting on a pair of pink satin Balenciaga slippers. The only way I could describe them is like a hotel slipper but they have a sole on them. They’re quilted satin and completely superfluous but I can’t stop thinking about them. I kind of imagine wearing them with jeans on a Sunday morning when we can all go out for brunch again!

What fashion item are you saving for right now?

I promised myself to treat myself to a Fendi Baguette for Christmas. I’ve had one on my eye since the start of the year, but I’ve never spent so much money all at once, so I have to get comfortable with it and streamline it as a giveaway. .

What wardrobe items do you wear on a loop?

Oversized t-shirts, hoodies, Kmart jeans and heels. No less than 10 cm high, otherwise what is it for?

Who are your favorite local designers?

Dion Lee for how he breaks gender norms. Rebecca Vallance for the way her clothes make me feel. Kym Ellery is a national icon turned international and I am so proud of her. I also love Blanca right now. Their shirts are so crazy, I have a few spinning!

My all-time favorite though is Carla Zampatti, just in terms of how much I’ve admired her since I was a teenager. Everything she stood for and how she became the Australian fashion matriarchy. I read his autobiography three times!

See more of Deni’s killer looks here.



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Fashion style

‘Gossip Girl’ taught Savannah Lee Smith her own style


On the new “Gossip Girl”, Savannah Lee Smith plays Monet de Haan, the Evil girl terrorizing Constance Billard while aiming for a PR career at all costs – friendships included, as the show reached its midseason finale with Monet MIA after a betrayal in a costume contest. It’s such a compelling performance that you couldn’t be blamed for assuming that Smith herself could, for example, throw a turmeric latte in your brand new sweater. But she’s (thankfully, for the sake of my own cream-colored Marc Jacobs sweatshirt) the exact opposite in person when we catch up at the Kate Spade New York event on Wednesday morning: lovely, bubbly, and super friendly.

“This is my very first fashion week! So I’m really excited,” she says. “It’s crazy. Little girl, I grew up watching the Met [Gala] and fashion week and all the catwalks and I dreamed of being a part of it. “

Another way Smith differs from the character she plays on TV? While Monet was probably born knowing the difference between Balmain and Balenciaga, for the young actor, “Gossip Girl” served as a crash course in the industry. She has always been interested in lowercase F fashion, but it was working with extraordinary costume designer Eric Daman that Smith invested in the genre of capital F fashion that rules the Upper East Side.

“After seeing the way Eric works with individuality, you can tell that each character is so designed in his clothes, so specific to him. It gave me an idea of ​​where I wanted to go with fashion. “, she says. “Every time I go to a fitting he says ‘Do you know this brand?’ And I’m like ‘No no no’; I’m looking, I write it in my Notes app, like, ‘I need this dress.’ It’s an educational thing for me. “

Smith turns out to be a quick study, showing up at the show‘s premiere at Louis Vuitton, then brightening up her simple black Kate Spade New York jumpsuit with a matching set of jewelry – a chunky cocktail ring and chandelier earrings – and glittering Mary Jane pumps. She loves to experiment with colors and pieces that catch the eye. “I also have a bit of an androgynous side that I’m trying to cultivate right now,” she says. “I love combat boots.”

Smith’s key accessory, however, was an apple-shaped “I Love NY” bag, as Wednesday’s event aimed to celebrate Kate Spade’s collection sporting Milton Glazer’s iconic tourist logo. That’s totally fitting for the Los Angeles native, who moved to New York in 2018 to attend New York University’s Tisch School of the Arts only to land a starring role at one of the lesser properties. more in vogue on television a few years later.

Smith was already in love with the city, but “Gossip Girl” deepened her appreciation for her new hometown. “My life changed instantly. It made me fall in love with New York even more, because ‘Gossip Girl’ is like a love letter to New York,” she says. “The show showed me parts of New York that I had never seen before.”

Then, with a smirk, Smith leans in to share one of his favorite jokes: “It’s funny, because ‘Gossip Girl’ gives New York very handsome, and he is – sometimes! There is no trash on the street in “Gossip Girl”, but it is there in real life. “

Garbage Joke: Just another reason Smith is so much more lovable and relatable than his on-screen character.

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Fashion designer

Albanian fashion designer wins biggest fashion award – Exit


Albanian fashion designer Nensi Dojaka won the prestigious LVMD Award for Young Designers in its 8th edition.

The jury selected Dojaka from a shortlist of nine finalists. The 28-year-old who now lives in London will receive a scholarship of 300,000 euros and a one-year mentoring program from a dedicated LMVH team that will cover many areas.

LVMH, otherwise known as Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is a French international company specializing in luxury goods. They also manage Christian Dior, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, Céline, Bulgari, Tiffany & Co and Stella McCartney.

Each year, the LVMH Prize rewards young fashion designers “passionate about creativity”. Selected for their talent and “extraordinary creativity”, he hopes to allow the emergence of a new generation of fashion designers.

This year, Djoaka was shortlisted along with eight other people. They come from New York, Paris, London, China, Colombia and South Africa. This is the first time that an Albanian has been selected as a finalist in the competition. she was announced as a winner this week.

“This promotion of nine finalists is a wonderful snapshot of fashion today and tomorrow. These young designers are all talented, of course, but also committed and realistic. During this semi final, each one showed in their own way a very personal and successful creative universe ”, Delphine Arnault, executive vice-president of Louis Vuitton and founder of the LVMH Prize, Vogue said.

Dojaka left Tirana at the age of 16 to go to school in London. Her clothes are inspired by the 90s and include transparent, minimalist, simple and somewhat risky designs that could be taken from a fashion magazine of the 90s.

Her name became known internationally after model Bella Hadid wore some of her designs to the VMAs in 2020. She subsequently appeared in Vogue.

Since the event, Dojak has caused a sensation in Albania, as her fellow citizens are understandably proud that she represents Albanian talent on an international scale.

“I am happy to bring some pride to my small country which has many talented people and I think it needs a boost and support.”



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Fashion designer

“Made in Afghanistan” once symbolized hope. Now it’s fear.


Haseeb Rahimi, a 30-year-old Afghan entrepreneur, and his younger sister, Rahiba Rahimi, a designer, had big plans for 2021.

This was going to be the year they took Laman, their five-year, international fashion brand. Already, they had organized a parade at the American Embassy in Kabul, equipped the candidates with “Afghan Star” (a local version of “American Idol”) and organized a parade in Milan in 2019. Bring their creations to Oslo (where Mr. Rahimi was in business school planning to open a showroom), Dubai and beyond would mark the next step in their dream of creating Afghanistan’s first modern luxury brand – one that would combine heritage. aesthetic of the country with contemporary styles, using the language of fashion to recast the image of their country in the global imagination.

The siblings had developed a network of 500 artisans, including 50 at the headquarters in Kabul, all headed by a woman. They wanted the “made in Afghanistan” label, sewn into every piece they sold, to mean something new both inside and outside the country.

But on August 15, the day the Taliban entered Kabul, they told their staff they were shutting down.

“Everything is wiped out,” Rahimi said by phone from Norway, referring to the company’s equipment, inventory and investments. (Ms Rahimi and her family fled to Turkey at the start of the summer, and she was suffering from “severe depression,” he said.) “This is what happens when you dare to hope in a hopeless place. “

“Hope” rather than “style” or “money” or “the trend” might seem like a strange word to associate with fashion. Almost as strange as writing about fashion against the backdrop of a war-torn and anguished country.

Yet he comes back again and again in times of trauma. In Afghanistan, fashion, with its low barriers to entry, is not so much a symbol of complacent indolence as it is a lever for advancement. It is a path to financial self-sufficiency, especially for women who have been excluded from the formal academic and professional ladder. It’s participating in the global conversation and reframing a cultural narrative.

And there, his essential role of self-expression and antidote to horror is evident. The drive to create beauty even in the worst of times is a universal human impulse – a statement of belief in what is possible.

As Ms Rahimi put it in an interview with The new humanitarian newsletter in 2017, “Fashion in a way helps our women come out of their shell and say to society, ‘Here I am. Look at me. Hear me. ‘”

This is so, for example, in Ukraine in 2014, when fashion week was held in Kiev as Russian forces loomed at the border. In Israel and Gaza, where fashion shows were held during the attacks of the same year.

And so it has been for the past 10 years in Afghanistan, as NGOs and private entrepreneurs have turned to fashion as the way forward. This is in part because it is a job that many women could do at home while looking after their families and traditional roles (even in areas already controlled by the Taliban).

And in part because of the country’s legitimate history and heritage as the center of the Silk Road, with its associated textile and embroidery art, and later “the Paris of Central Asia” – a nickname given to Afghanistan in the stable period from 1930 to 1970, when the “Afghan coat” became a staple in Western fashion. (Indeed, in 1969, Vogue held a fashion shoot titled “Afghan adventure. ”)

“Handicrafts have always played a vital role in defining communities and cultures as well as economic opportunities,” said Rebecca van Bergen, founder of Nest, a non-profit organization focused on building an economy world of manual workers. Nest has been present in Afghanistan since 2015 and works with a network of 6,700 artisans in the country, 89% of whom are women.

“Many craft businesses in Afghanistan started and flourished after the fall of the Taliban in 2001, which shows how the empowerment of women is directly linked to economic development and cultural preservation,” said Ms. van Bergen.

In 2016, for example, Simone Cipriani, the founder of the Ethical Fashion Initiative, a program of the International Trade Commission, a joint agency of the United Nations and the World Trade Organization, launched a program in Afghanistan focused on the cultivation of local saffron production. and silk and executed according to the principles of the International Labor Organization. Sixty percent of the 3,500 employees are women.

This fall was to herald the start of the next stage when, in November, a major Italian luxury brand – Mr. Cipriani did not want to say which one, but admitted that it belonged to a large French group – would sell 2,000 bristles. shawls created in Afghanistan with the support of the Italian textile manufacturer Ratti (of which Louis Vuitton is one of its clients). He hoped it was a deal that would open a pipeline for future business, legitimizing Afghan crafts at the highest levels on the world stage and creating a new form of industry in the country.

In 2019, the EFI initiative also linked Jeanne de Kroon, a Dutch designer who had launched a line called Zazi Vintage, with a workshop in Afghanistan, to better recycle the country’s sumptuous textiles into extraordinary coats designed and sold by Mrs. de Kroon.

It was the same year that USAID, the United States’ international development organization, helped set up an exhibition in Milan at the Salone dei Tessuti to showcase the country’s luxury crafts (products being created partly by a network of 15,000 women). It featured a parade of four brands, including Laman, all founded by women and all dedicated to various iterations of the same mission: empowering their female base and rebuilding their country.

And that was right before Hila and Wana Limar, two Afghan sisters who immigrated with their families to Germany when they were young, began to prepare a jewelry brand called Sevar. It was designed to sell gold and lapis designs created and purchased in Afghanistan and is based on a program to teach a trade (and business and marketing skills) to young women who drop out of high school. The first collection was due out this fall, and the first class of young women had applied and been selected to begin their apprenticeship during the fall of Kabul.

Now, like Laman, all of these initiatives are on hold, the stories they represent are whispered with fear, the women who work with them are too afraid to continue.

EFI has removed all web pages related to its work in Afghanistan and released the declaration: “Until the situation becomes clearer, we have decided not to release any personally identifiable information related to our work in Afghanistan. Thank you for your understanding. ”USAID’s pages on their show in Milan have also disappeared.

“Many of our artisans have deactivated their IG accounts and requested that their names not be mentioned anywhere out of fear for their safety and that of the artisans they employ,” said Ms. van Bergen of Nest. “With women’s rights at best questioned and artisan businesses feeling the need to shut down social media accounts and websites, the economic and cultural spillovers are all in question. It’s scary.

According to Ms. de Kroon de Zazi, the government has told the country to return to work. But while male employees return to their workshops, most women stay away for fear of retaliation if they show up. Hila Limar said she received text messages every day asking for help and had contacted the German government in an attempt to get names on evacuation lists. She was well aware of the fact, she said, “that I could be one of those girls. It is our responsibility to support those who have not had the chance to leave. And who now cannot.

“Someone asked me if there was hope,” said Mr. Cipriani of the Ethical Fashion Initiative. “I don’t know the answer. But there is a possibility of hope.



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Fashion brand

Can luxury fashion brands really be inclusive?


MICHAEL LEE / UNSPLASH

LUXURY products tend to be associated with exclusivity rather than inclusiveness. But thanks to the scrutiny of social media and consumer activism, high-end brands are under increasing pressure to be seen as caring businesses.

Some have spent large sums on initiatives that address environmental concerns or have used their expertise to help deal with the pandemic.

For example, the Kering group (which owns Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen) has set itself a target of reducing greenhouse gas emissions by 50% by 2025.

In response to the 2019 coronavirus disease (COVID-19), the Burberry fashion house has donated more than 100,000 pieces of PPE to the National Health Service and health charities. Meanwhile, luxury firm LVMH used its fragrance manufacturing facilities to make free hand sanitizer for the healthcare system in France.

Yet it remains unclear whether consumers can reconcile the exclusive nature of luxury brands – selling at prices many cannot afford – with a public image of sustainability and environmental or social awareness. A series of studies have shown that consumers are ambivalent about these efforts. Research into the attitudes of millennials has shown that young consumers even view the concepts of luxury and sustainability as contradictory.

This is understandable, as some brands’ apparent attempts to address societal challenges have come after receiving much criticism for their own apparent failures.

Gucci, for example, has a $ 1.5million (£ 1million) plan to support young designers from underrepresented backgrounds. But it was launched after the brand was accused of racism over a sweater design.

And while Prada has spoken out against racial injustice on social media, the company has also been forced to apologize for merchandise deemed racist. Dior, meanwhile, launched a message of support and solidarity accompanied by a black background. But again, this comes after allegations of cultural appropriation.

A New York Times The report showed that among the best designers and creative directors in the fashion world, only four are black. Models and photographers with diverse backgrounds are also seriously under-represented in the luxury fashion industry.

Designer Virgil Abloh, men’s fashion manager at Louis Vuitton, is one of the few black figures to have reached the heights of a luxury brand. He commented: “Diversity is not just about gender and ethnicity. It is a question of experience. He brings new ideas to the table. And it would be nice if the fashion industry would listen to them and take them into account. “

In this complex context, we asked members of the UK public what they think of luxury brand inclusion campaigns. Overall, consumers – especially those with low incomes – had a negative response.

The majority of respondents (87%) believe luxury brands would do better to become more inclusive by focusing on fair pay and workers’ rights.

Efforts on climate change initiatives were also popular (79%), as was work to reduce racial and gender inequalities.

Respondents also welcomed the idea that luxury brands select partners and suppliers in response to social and political situations. For example, Burberry’s decision to boycott cotton from China’s Xinjiang region over alleged human rights violations.

Overall, our survey suggests that, despite some progress, a lot remains to be done by luxury brands. And the question remains, can an industry that revel in exclusivity can embrace inclusiveness in a way that drives real societal change?

As consumers increasingly demand a transition to an inclusive society, a unique window has opened for luxury brands to become better agents of social change by aligning their missions, values ​​and strategies with a social goal. Luxury brands are in a key position to lead commercial action by leveraging their cultural authority.

They have the opportunity to use their influence and actions to advance public debate and accelerate behavior change. If they don’t take it, any gesture of inclusiveness risks being seen as nothing more than an opportunistic exercise in public relations and image.

Paurav Shukla is Professor of Marketing at the University of Southampton, while Dina Khalifa is a Senior Research Associate at the University of Cambridge.


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Fashion style

LV200: The French Couture House celebrates Louis Vuitton’s bicentenary in style


The year has been red in many ways for Louis Vuitton, the French fashion house. From art director Virgil Abloh’s groundbreaking Spring / Summer 2022 line, Amen Break, to one of the most exciting sneaker drops of the year in the Spring / Summer 2021 trainers upcycling collection, she was struck after the fact. It seems like the year is the right one to mark the bicentennial anniversary of the enigmatic founder of the eponymous house, and the brand pays homage to him with a series of creative collaborations and ideas that do it justice.

The celebrations are meant to re-familiarize the world with Louis’ elusive beginnings, from leaving his hometown of Anchay at age 14, arriving in Paris two years later, (having traveled on foot), learning with the trunk maker and packer, Romain Maréchal and, finally founding his own House in 1854 at 4 rue Neuve-des-Capucines near Place Vendôme in Paris.

Louis: the game

The celebrations, which are expected to expand over the next few months, are multi-faceted. There is the launch of a video game, Louis: the game, with integrated NFTs, store windows that proudly display the iconic trunk, redesigned as a vessel by 200 contributors from a multitude of worlds, including Nigo, Drake, Gloria Steinem and Marc Jacobs.

Works of art were created to commemorate the occasion, from a gargantuan triptych of Louis painted by figurative artist Alex Katz, a fictionalized novel by French writer Caroline Bongrand about the life and intentions of Louis (available in French and English in October), and In search of Louis, a documentary that retraces his history and highlights the man and his journey, from his humble beginnings to the legacy that LV is today.

Louis: The Game can be downloaded through the App Store and Google Play for Android systems.

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French fashion

Bernard Arnault makes Jeff Bezos the richest man in the world


Bernard Arnault, Chairman and CEO of French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, is now the richest person in the world. Bernard Arnault edged Jeff Bezos after the Amazon founder’s net worth fell $ 13.9 billion in one day.

Before that, Bernard Arnault was at the top of the list of the richest people in the world in December 2019, January 2020, May 2021 and July 2021. Arnault has a net worth of $ 198.9 billion compared to the 194.9 billion $ 185.5 billion from Jeff Bezos and $ 185.5 billion from Tesla owner Elon Musk, according to Forbes’ Real-Time Billionaire List Friday.

Jeff Bezos’ net worth has reached $ 590 million and stands at $ 194.9 billion, while Musk has a net worth of $ 184.7 billion, according to the Forbes list.

Read also | Billionaire Cartier owner holds key to reshaping luxury

Bernard Arnault, the 72-year-old French billionaire, heads the world’s leading fashion brand Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy (LVMH). LVMH oversees an empire of 70 brands including Givenchy, Guerlain, Marc Jacobs, Sephora, Tiffany & Co, Emilio Pucci, Fendi, Loro Piana, Nicholas Kirkwood, Thomas Pink, RM Williams, EDUN, Moynat and Donna Karen. It also includes TAG Heuer, De Beers and Bulgari. Arnault owns 96.5% of the capital of Christian Dior, which controls 41% of LVMH.

Read also | This billionaire lost more money than anyone in the world in the Covid-19 crisis

Forbes’ real-time billionaire list showed Elon Musk followed by Microsoft founder Bill Gates at $ 132.0 billion, Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg at $ 130.6 billion, the co-founders Google’s Larry Page at $ 116.5 billion and Oracle co-founder Larry Ellison at $ 116.4 billion and Sergey Brin at $ 112.8 billion. Warren Buffet’s net worth has now fallen to $ 101.6 billion, according to the Forbes list.

Reliance Industries Limited (RIL) chairman Mukesh Ambani is ranked 12th on this list with a net worth of $ 79.8 billion. On the other hand, Gautam Adani has dropped seven spots to 23rd and currently has a net worth of $ 55.6 billion and the net worth of HCL Technologies founder Shiv Nadar has reached $ 25.8 billion. , also showed Forbes Real-Time Billionaires List.


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Fashion brand

How to celebrate the 200th birthday of a man everyone knows and no one knows


There is one piece of art that has been on display in Faye McLeod’s studio for most of the past decade, representing what she considers her “mantra.”

In another corporate office, such art could be a portrait of an eagle, hovering over the word “perseverance” or a modern black and white typography poster with a phrase like “work hard and be kind to people” .

But in the office of Ms. McLeod, who is Louis Vuitton’s visual image director, the sign consists of a few lines of unpunctuated text in rainbow colors, inspired by the song’s lyrics. “Hypnotize” by Notorious BIG in 1997: “Louis Louis Louis can ‘you see how your world amazes me.

The phrase reminds Ms. McLeod, 49, that “whenever I’m sitting in the studio and we have no idea about something, go to the archives,” she said. “The ideas are still there.

About six months ago, the mantra inspired a new project to celebrate Louis Vuitton’s 200th anniversary: ​​filling the windows of the brand’s 460 stores with trunks designed by 200 people.

The trunks are the legacy of Mr. Vuitton, the pieces on which he founded the company in Paris in 1854. Using a water-repellent canvas material, he designed his trunks with flat tops (as opposed to trunks with topsides). more common rounds, which allowed water to roll around but were not as easily transportable).

His son, Georges Ferréol Vuitton, considerably enlarged the business and created the LV monogram. Today, the brand maintains a rich collection of drawings, advertisements and other historical documents of Georges.

“With Georges, we have so much,” Ms. McLeod said. “But with Louis, we kind of have trunks. This is why we have based a lot of the work around the trunks, because that is what we have in the archives. It was the right thing to do. “

So earlier this year, her team of showcase artists and technical assistants – perhaps best known for flooding stores with Yayoi Kusama’s chickenpox dots and tentacles in 2012 – began to think about a list of people to make or decorate trunks. Virgil Abloh, Louis Vuitton’s ever-well-connected menswear art director, was “very, very involved,” said Ansel Thompson, artistic director of the team.

Mr. Thompson and Mrs. McLeod not only wanted traditional visual artists, but an assortment of “visionaries” who could “capture the mind” of the mysterious Mr. Vuitton – such as poets, scientists, explorers and activists, they said. they declared. These people were invited to think of their trunks “like a container: for an object, a dream, a future, a reflection, a desire”. (In the document informing them of the project, the Louis Vuitton team included a copy of the “Louis Louis Louis” image.)

Contributors, which include Drake and Gloria Steinem, as well as LVMH designers like Marc Jacobs and Kim Jones, received boxes with common dimensions but said they could redefine the shape at will. They could paint or sculpt, for example, or use videos, photographs, sound, or augmented reality.

As a result, there are jelly trunks, mini-balloons and polished stainless steel. There are trunks covered with greenery (by Mr. Flower Fantastic) and tapestry (by Qualeasha Wood). There’s a flying trunk – made by a French aeronautical designer and recently tested inside the LV store in Place Vendôme in Paris, Ms McLeod said – and another on skateboard wheels.

At one point, Vuitton asked a mushroomist to turn a trunk into dust and then make mushrooms from the powder, but the collaboration ultimately fell through.

Members of K-pop group BTS covered their trunk in cartoonish scribbles of whales, stripes, arrows, hearts and a large carrot. While the trunks of a few late contributors have yet to be made to the mark, the BTS submission has arrived “very quickly,” Ms. McLeod said. “They obviously knew what they wanted to express.”

Some trunks were more of a collaboration. When fashion’s favorite astrologer, Susan Miller, created an astrological chart for Mr. Vuitton, Ms. McLeod and Mr. Thompson’s team built a diorama of the map using neon-colored planets. They placed the galaxy inside a trunk and pierced peepholes on the outside, painting a night sky on the outside.

Finally, Vuitton will publish a book chronicling the collaboration, exhibit the physical trunks and organize a charity auction with Sotheby’s. For each trunk, Louis Vuitton pledged 10,000 euros (approximately $ 11,800) to charity; contributors were given a list of 15 global arts education nonprofits to choose from to receive their donation.

Until then, images of the trunks will be displayed in Louis Vuitton store windows for 100 days, starting August 4 – the founder’s birthday, the impetus for the whole project.

Another aspect of the project, in New York City, the exterior of the Fifth Avenue store will feature a digital image the size of Mr. Vuitton’s Godzilla, rendered in checkered pixels, with the words “Happy Birthday Louis.”

The image – Mr Vuitton is standing with his hands in his pocket and gazing distant, more reminiscent of a young start-up founder posing in a men’s fashion magazine than a 19th-century trunk – is not based on a real photo. , but it’s not for lack of trying. There isn’t much left of the man behind the most famous name in fashion.

“We only have one image of him,” Mr. Thompson said. “We still wonder what he really looked like. “


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Fashion style

Angelina Jolie steps out in Paris in trendy wide-legged penthouses


There’s pretty much a formula for how Angelina Jolie always looks so effortlessly chic and glamorous: on the red carpet, where you’ll likely find her in a strapless dress or with a slit, the actor sticks to a constant list of classics like black dresses and trench coats. That’s exactly what she did when she landed in Paris on Thursday, doing a number of looks while shopping and sightseeing with her children Shiloh, Knox, Pax and Zahara. But this time, Jolie also added a bonus, just trendy enough that you can almost imagine it on Kendall Jenner or Bella Hadid.

Jolie started off with a perfectly Parisian black dress for a visit to the Eiffel Tower. She then swapped it for a belted white, conservatively buttoned all the way to the top, while making an appearance in stores on the Champs-Élysées. (Naturally, the outing included a stop at Guerlain, the famous French cosmetics brand that recently joined Jolie in her effort to save the bees.) Store, nothing less – wearing a white t-shirt and a Louis Vuitton mini bag, whose size is reminiscent of a nostalgic 2000s trend for clutch shoulder bags.

Angelina Jolie and Zahara-Marley Jolie leave Guerlain’s Champs Élysées boutique on July 22, 2021 in Paris, France

Photo by Pierre Suu / GC via Getty Images

Perhaps most noticeable, however, were her beige wide-legged Chloe pants, the same silhouette and color combination that keeps coming back to trendsetters like Jenner and Hadid. A visit to the Banksy exhibit on display at Espace Lafayette Drouot turned out to be part of a matching corduroy-style linen ensemble, a sophisticated take on the beige corduroy look that Hadid memorably wore earlier this year. .

Knox Leon Jolie-Pitt, Zahara Jolie-Pitt and Angelina Jolie leave the “World of Banksy” exhibition at Espace Lafayette Drouot on July 22, 2021 in Paris, France.

Photo by Marc Piasecki / GC via Getty Images

If Friday’s release is any indication, Jolie may have found a new staple. She was seen outside her hotel, another pair of wide beige pants, this time worn with a trench coat. Meanwhile, her daughter Zahara is experimenting with a trend you wouldn’t expect to see Jolie anytime soon: the bob.

Photo by Marc Piasecki / GC via Getty Images


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Fashion designer

Spring ’22 men’s fashion collections cross gender and age – Sourcing Journal


Post-pandemic fashion is getting bolder and bolder, and not just for women.

The recent surge in evening wear for women, categorized by sexy and nude styles like Mugler’s thongs and sheer catsuits, heralded a big change in menswear. Recent Spring 2022 shows featured a wave of styles that champion experimentation and fluidity, according to a new report on Spring / Summer 2022 men’s clothing from product intelligence firm Trendalytics.

Burberry’s “Universal Passport” collection offers a prime example of this fashion freedom, the report notes, with models dressed in cutting-edge elements like leather and faux piercings that Burberry Creative Director Riccardo Tisci, compared to the free spirit of youth and a daring attitude. The collection also featured bold prints, best represented in a standout look that combined cherry red skinny pants with tunics soaked in the phrase “Universal Passport”.

Text prints were also featured in Jil Sander’s collection, with neutral lettering punctuated by cheerful accessories like a bright orange hat and bandana scarf.

Burberry

Bright colourways are also integrated into the extravagance theme of the season. Trendalytics drew particular attention to lime green, cerulean and light blue, which saw year-over-year increases of 12%, 14% and 3%, respectively. The designers played with the ombre hues, as evidenced by Etro’s lime green and yellow suit and Hermès’ orange and pink sweater cardigan.

And while bright colors seem to be the palette of choice for clothes that make a splash, when it comes to costumes, designers are going for pastels, according to the report. Pastel purple, blue, and green were among the most popular shades of names like Diesel, Fendi, and MSGM.

Rapper Travis Scott made waves when he walked the runway for Dior in looks from their latest collaboration. Showcasing a palette of sunset pink, cactus green, and earthy brown, the collection incorporates natural elements while pushing down gender barriers. He also highlighted the influence of music on fashion, as evidenced by rapper Kanye West’s successful partnership with Gap.

Not only is men’s clothing becoming more experimental with color, it also continues to test the concept of gender.

British fashion designer Erdem Moralioglu celebrated his foray into men’s clothing with floral fabrications, tapering seams and cropped hems mirroring his women’s line. Draping fabrics such as satin and silk are also both up 17% from last year. Casablanca, Loewe, Dior and Diesel have all included the classic feminine material in their men’s collections. Gender neutrality was also spotted in the fine details, with split and scalloped hems featured by Louis Vuitton and Dior.

Gender fluidity is emerging as a top search term, according to global fashion shopping platform Lyst, which reported that gender-related keywords have jumped 33% since the start. of the year, while press and social media mentions for genderless fashion terms increased 46% in May.

“Prep Leisure,” which Edited predicted to be important for fall 2021, continues to grow in popularity. Defined by sleeveless sweaters, straight-leg pants and college prints, the trend merges with streetwear for a modern update. Sweater vests remain strong for spring, as the collections of Paul Smith, Bethany Williams and others show. Other preppy patterns to watch out for are checkerboard prints and vertical stripes, up 30% and 23%, respectively, from last year.


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Fashion brand

LVMH takes majority stake in Virgil Abloh’s Off-White label

LVMH adds Off-White to its brand portfolio after the French luxury house agreed on Tuesday to take a 60% stake in Off-White LLC. The Milan-based New Guards group, licensee of the brand, will remain an operational partner.

Founder Virgil Abloh will retain his duties as Creative Director, in addition to his contractual duties as artistic director of Louis Vuitton menswear.

Although the terms of the deal have not been disclosed, LVMH and Abloh will look to develop and launch new brands, likely in the luxury streetwear fashion arena. Off-White has the potential to grow significantly, expanding into categories such as housewares, beauty, and fragrances.

In an interview with The New York Times, Abloh confirmed he will take on a larger role within LVMH, bringing a diverse voice to his portfolio of brands. “I’m going to sit at the table,” Mr. Abloh said.

“We are not trying to emulate a model that already exists,” said Michael Burke, general manager of Louis Vuitton, of Mr. Abloh’s new role to the NY Times. “It’s more like what Bernard Arnault did when he bought Dior and decided to create a federation of luxury brands.

On the road to inclusiveness

LVMH, despite its commitment to diversity, operates with an all-Caucasian board of directors and executive committee. The company made history when in 2018 it appointed Abloh artistic director of men’s fashion Louis Vuitton, making him the very first black designer to lead a French luxury brand. In a Financial Times ranking of the most inclusive companies in Europe in 2020, valued by 100,000 employees in 15,000 companies, LVMH failed to make the top 850, against Louis Vuitton at 16.

LVMH in the midst of a wave of acquisitions

LVMH has been very busy lately, confirming last week a 20% stake in Phoebe Philo’s new label, as well as L Catterton, LVMH’s consumer-focused private equity firm, taking the majority stake in the company. ‘Etro Europe. In April, L Catterton finalized its takeover of German shoemaker Birkenstock. In Paris, the La Samaritaine department store reopened with great fanfare in June, after the titanic restoration of LVMH (750 million euros) which lasted several years.

LVMH is used to taking stakes in brands founded by creators who creatively run its heritage brands, including Marc Jacobs at Louis Vuitton, John Galliano at Dior and JW Anderson at Loewe.

Not original

Off-White has often been plagued with copying from designers, which Abloh in an interview with 032c said “In postmodern order [that is fashion], being “original” seems to be the thing that matters the least. He reiterated this to the NY Times: “Relevance is my metric. “

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Fashion style

Fashion successes and failures for July 2021 | Gallery



5:21 am PDT, July 14, 2021


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Fashion designer

Phoebe Philo returns to fashion with a new eponymous label


With names like Celine and Chloe under her reign once upon a time, the grounded yet mysterious nature of Phoebe Philo presents itself as a sort of enigma. The British fashion designer knows exactly when she needs a break and isn’t afraid to take it. In 2006, Philo decided to leave Chloe to spend more time with his family in London. The breakup lasted two years before luxury giant LVMH courted her with Celine. But she once again shocked fashion enthusiasts when she left her ten-year job at Céline in 2018, abandoning her coveted position as the Maison’s creative director. Not intending to join a luxury fashion rival, she left followers bewildered before becoming MIA professionally.

Phoebe philo

Today, after a three-year hiatus, Philo is making a comeback with an independent house of the same name, with LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) as a minority investor. With clothes and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design”, Philo has been working with a small team in a studio in London since late last year. As she rather quietly prepares to reveal more details about Phoebe Philo Studio, here’s what she had to say about her journey so far: “Being in my studio and creating again has been both exciting and incredibly rewarding. I can’t wait to reconnect with my audience and people around the world. Being independent, governing and experimenting on my own terms is extremely important to me. “

Phoebe philo

Season after season, Philo has created clean lines, clean cuts, modernist silhouettes and distinctive handbags, which have drawn all eyes to her. Imagining women as a muse and gravitating towards winning celebrities like those in Hollywood, Philo’s simplicity and discernment has been impressive over a career spanning more than 15 years. Her clothes weren’t just for women; they also concerned women. With a refined philosophy that speaks to the woman of the 21st century, many are now turning to Philo’s eponymous brand with the hope of having the same DNA, only reinvented and completely their own.

Photographs: Instagram


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Fashion style

Phoebe Philo is launching a fashion brand – here’s what we know so far


Former Celine fans, you might want to sit down: Phoebe Philo is finally back in fashion.

According to Fashion business, the British designer will launch her own fashion brand with LVMH, the luxury conglomerate that owns brands like Louis Vuitton, Dior and Givenchy.

Philo’s upcoming eponymous fashion brand will offer clothing and accessories “rooted in exceptional quality and design”. In other words, it will be very much in tune with the design language she cultivated at Céline, the French luxury brand owned by LVMH, where she was Creative Director for 10 years before stepping down in 2017 to be focus on his family.

At C̩line, Philo made his mark with clothes for women that are at the same time intelligent, chic and sexy. She also designed a line of successful handbags, such as Cabas, which were functional and luxurious Рyet subtle, when it comes to designer leather goods, with no obvious branding. (The bags are still available at C̩line today.)

Philo’s decidedly modern and minimalist fashion has earned him a group of dedicated followers known as Philophiles, and his influence continues to be felt in other fashion brands such as The Row and Peter Do. Most notably, after Philo left Celine, her fashion followers turned to Bottega Veneta, now led by designer Daniel Lee who had previously worked with her as Celine’s director of ready-to-wear.

(Photo credit: Michel Dufour / WireImage)

In 2020, there were rumors that Philo would make a comeback in the fashion world with his own fashion label. Philo’s eponymous label had been under construction since leaving Chloé, where she held the position of artistic director from 2001 to 2006 before joining Céline. In February of last year, it was reported that she had assembled a team of designers for her brand.

This year, the British designer also made a semi-return to the ANDAM Awards 2021. Philo was a guest judge for the prestigious French Fashion Award, alongside Lisa of Blackpink and fashion photographer Juergen Teller, who shot a handful of memorable campaigns for Celine during her tenure.

Now it’s clear Philo is back for good. In a statement to Business of Fashion, the designer said, “Being in my studio and creating again has been both exciting and incredibly rewarding. I can’t wait to reconnect with my audience and people around the world. Being independent, governing and experimenting on my own terms is extremely important to me. “

There is no official launch date for the Phoebe Philo brand yet, but you can expect more details in January 2022.

Header photo credit: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff / Getty Images



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Fashion style

Jennifer Lopez masters the all-white style in an outfit and matching sneakers – Footwear News


If you purchase an independently rated product or service through a link on our website, we may receive an affiliate commission.

Jennifer Lopez brought a sporty twist to the “summer white” dress code this week, while having lunch at the Brentwood Country Mart in Santa Monica, Calif. With handsome Ben Affleck and their kids this week.

The singer and actress wore a white tank top with matching pants, with a paper belt tied in a bow. On the accessories side, Lopez donned her iconic aviator sunglasses and oversized hoop earrings, as well as a diamond pendant necklace. She was also carrying a fluorescent yellow Louis Vuitton Capucines mini handbag with a beige leather handle and a white flap. While its style is exhausted, the handbag typically sells for between $ 4,450 and $ 23,100 depending on its material and finish.


Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck go to lunch with their children at the Brentwood Country Mart.

CREDIT: MEGA


Jennifer Lopez, Valentino, Louis Vuitton

Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck go to lunch with their children at the Brentwood Country Mart.

CREDIT: MEGA

On the shoe side, Lopez wore a pair of white leather Backnet low top sneakers from Valentino. The pair featured rounded toes and perforated brand logos on the sides. They also had a neon yellow lining and a heel strap adorned with the brand’s signature Rockstud accents, perfectly matched to its Vuitton handbag. Lopez’s sneakers sell for $ 695 on Farfetch.com.


Jennifer Lopez, Valentino, Louis Vuitton

Jennifer Lopez and Ben Affleck go to lunch with their children at the Brentwood Country Mart.

CREDIT: MEGA


Jennifer Lopez, Valentino, Louis Vuitton

CREDIT: MEGA


Valentino, sneakers

Valentino’s Backnet sneakers.

CREDIT: Courtesy of Farfetch

Lopez is the undisputed queen of the monochrome wardrobe, which has overtaken the fashion world this year. The style hack incorporates pieces of similar colors or prints for a clean look. While she’s often seen in matching leggings and crop tops, this laid-back, laid-back look proves the trend is also found in her everyday wardrobe. Lopez isn’t the only star to add the trend to her rotation; Lily Collins, Rosalia, Jordyn Woods and other celebrities have also been spotted using a monochrome style in recent months.

Valentino is a favored brand for the “On the Floor” singer, especially his handbags like the Rockstud Spike, VSling and Supervee. It’s one of the few times we’ve seen her in the label’s sneakers. However, the pairing makes sense; she has frequently worn the Italian brand’s dresses to awards shows and magazine covers over the years, as well as to the front row of her fashion shows.


Jennifer Lopez, big sneakers

Jennifer Lopez hits the gym in Miami.

CREDIT: MEGA

When it comes to shoes, Lopez quickly pairs his casual, sporty looks with a chunky pair of sneakers. His favorites are often styles with chunky soles in white or neutral tones, by Slick Woods x The Kooples, Alexander McQueen and Renee Caovilla, as well as top sports brands like Reebok, Adidas and Nike. For more formal occasions, the star favors strappy sandals from Bottega Veneta, Femme and Gucci. The platform pumps from Charlotte Olympia, Aquazzura and Christian Louboutin are also stylish must-haves in its rotation. Lopez is not only a frequent wearer of stylish shoes, she has also designed many trendy pairs for her own JLO Jennifer Lopez collection at DSW, which launched last fall.

Add stylish white leather sneakers to your summer looks, inspired by J-Lo.


Coach, sneakers

CREDIT: Courtesy of Zappos

Buy: Coach Citysole sneakers, $ 175.


Axel Arigato, sneakers

CREDIT: Courtesy of Farfetch

Buy: Axel Arigato low-top trainers, $ 175.


Sam Edelman, sneakers

CREDIT: Courtesy of DSW

Buy: Sam Edelman Lupita Sneakers, $ 50 (was $ 100).

To see more of Lopez’s athleisure-chic looks throughout the year, click through the gallery.


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French fashion

Fall for Couture’s gravitational pull


PARIS – The Cannes Film Festival is in full swing on the red carpet; billionaires are back in Sun Valley; and in Paris – “It’s like a school reunion, isn’t it?” said Carine Roitfeld, the French fashion editor, sliding her veil of hair from her dark eyes and taking a peek at the Dior show on Monday as the first week of live couture in over a year began .

Much of the band sat, as always, in a specially constructed box in the gardens of the Rodin Museum, this time suspended with an embroidery band depicting an imaginary landscape created by French artist Eva Jospin and made by the Chanakya School of Craft in India for three months. The participants who had not seen each other since early 2020 hugged and kissed with pleasure. Mrs. Roitfeld looked amused, if not entirely satisfied, by it all.

That’s right, there was something a little baffling about this hasty return to the familiar: the paparazzi clamoring for a photo of Jessica Chastain and Jennifer Lawrence; the pass-the-Champagne multi-course vegan dinners to celebrate every night; the stiletto heels clicking on the steps of the Palais Galliera.

So, while the audience was no longer so crowded that every seat on a bench seemed to be on a neighbor’s leg, and masks were still needed in the tents, the gravitational pull seemed backwards: back to classicism swish and holographic of an Armani Privé pantsuit; the explosive tulle of a Giambattista Valli evening dress; the intricate mosaic of a Fendi fur (although the furs were all made from ancient hides).

This is not to say that there have not been great – and even minor – leaps forward.

Fifty-three years after Cristobal Balenciaga closed the doors to his couture salon, Demna Gvasalia reopened them, recreating the pieces as precisely as possible, picking up where the man generally considered the greatest couturier of all had left. stopped. Sitting on a gilded ballroom chair where a single crimson eyelet had been placed precisely on the diagonal of each seat, it was hard not to think: the walls are probably panicking.

Because it wasn’t a trip to a strange wormhole in the middle of the 20th century. It was a master class on how to learn from the past in order to most effectively reach the mid-21st. How to question everything you thought you knew and reassess.

Instead of the old front row – Mona von Bismarck, Bunny Mellon, Babe Paley, Gloria Guinness – there was Kanye West (who came out on top), Lewis Hamilton, James Harden and Lil Baby. Instead of just nimble women on the runway, models came of all ages, shapes and types of beauty. (There was even a burgeoning minor celebrity model: Ella Emhoff, Vice President Kamala Harris’ stepdaughter.)

Expectations have been overturned – not just who gets to the seam or who is included, but what constitutes a couture garment; everyday and street totems have been transformed into elite objects.

Mr. Gvasalia played with the sack dress, of course, but it became a sack jacket: pinched at the waist, with a portrait collar torn off at the collarbone to form peaks around the neck and hollowed out at the shoulder blades. , as if he had been caught in the act of rejection. They came in neon orange gabardine and shaggy, silver faux fur, but also denim which itself had been treated as a valuable fiber, sourced from original machinery in Japan with silver plated hardware.

He crafted a padded black satin flare back tee with flared sleeves and a slightly raised collar, paired with loose jeans and a gorgeous opera stole that sweeps the floor. “I suffered for three months for this T-shirt,” he said after the show. “It’s much easier to make a ball gown.” To be fair, he also made them (most often inspired by the archives), in muslin wrapped around the body, or embroidery made somewhat degraded by time. He transformed parkas, anoraks and bathrobes into opera capes in ruby, shocking rose and chrysoprase.

Everything had the purity of monastic form, the rigor, and the absence of foreign rustling that defined Balenciaga in the first place, fueled by the forward momentum that pulls the walls down that marks Mr. Gvasalia’s work. The result broke through the torpor and discontent of the past year and put an end to all those whining questions about the importance of fashion. It made you want to dress up and go out and do something.

Obviously not everyone can, at least in these clothes (in fact, very few people can), but at this point Mr. Gvasalia is so widely copied by all mass market brands that before you know there will be a version of it. come to a store near you.

Speaking of action plans: Iris van Herpen took as her theme the earth seen from above, to better offer some perspective on our place in it after last year’s isolation. To do this, she teamed up with Frenchsky diver Domitille Kiger, who whirled through the air in an extraordinary gown from Ms. van Herpen’s collection that herself seemed to exist halfway between earth and sky. (Fun fact: Ms. van Herpen is also a skydiver.)

According to the designer, this was, as far as she or Ms. Kiger knows, the first time a jump has been attempted in a dress of any sort, and she ended up having to come out of thousands of tiny spheres. to withstand the pressure of someone falling at around 186 miles an hour. Indeed, Ms Kiger made her first jump into a web – the fabric used to make the sample – and, Ms van Herpen said, when Ms Kiger landed, “it had practically disintegrated”.

It is a solution characteristic of the work of the designer, which itself seems to exist in an area beyond fashion: a place where a dress can become a mutant expression of life processes; a hybrid creature of technology, art, imagination and… recycling. (Many of the other dresses in the collection, equally mobile and alluring, were made from fibers from recycled ocean plastic.) Someone is calling Guinness World Records.

Viktor & Rolf, masters of double-meaning couture, built an entire show as a meditation not just on brocade and jeweled adornments, but on the real meaning of royalty (kind of a hot topic these days) . Not to mention the different uses of the word “queen”, which has been splashed onto a variety of ceremonial scarves such as “A Royal Pain in the Ass” and “Size Queen”.

At Schiaparelli, Daniel Roseberry played at “finding the part of the body”, by pouring the elbows, the abdominals, the nose, the breasts and even the hollow of the buttocks in resin printed in golden 3D and inlaid them on a jacket. in matador jeans (made up of 11 old pairs of jeans), glamorous black dresses and even accessories. A pair of high heels gave new meaning to “toe-toe shoes”.

And nonagenarian architect Frank Gehry showed up to be feted at a Louis Vuitton dinner celebrating his very first perfume bottle, the lid of which looks like a piece of crumpled tin foil or a remnant of a vessel. spatial Bezos or Musk.

“We wanted to work on a wardrobe,” Maria Grazia Chiuri announced before her Dior show, which involved doubling the almost invisible alchemy and the touch of the hand: tweed remade in cashmere, feathers and intarsia so it was like big. swaddling clothes; Greek dresses so light they seem to wear air, although it actually takes 12 days of minute tailoring to make them.

This kind of effort is almost impossible to see with the naked eye, not least the smartphone. Ditto for the way the signature loop has been recreated in sparkling trompe-l’oeil Lesage embroidery at Chanel. Although designer Virginie Viard gave the influencer generation a (a little awkward) nod by oversizing the costumes and adding eyelet bustiers and navel-baring nipple tubes. And she paired flower-encrusted empire-waist tunic dresses with matching inlaid panties – like leggings, the couture version.

At the end of the show, after a majestic parade around the courtyard, the bride – Margaret Qualley, actor and daughter of Andie MacDowell, in a simple and elegant seashell pink dress – threw her bouquet above her head. and it landed in the turn of Laura Brown, the editor of InStyle, who burst out laughing. You had to be there.

For those who couldn’t pull away from their screens completely, John Galliano tossed the catwalk tradition at Maison Margiela to the wind and instead came up with a gothic horror short by French filmmaker Olivier Dahan inspired by stories and scenes. characters that Mr. Galliano invents to evoke his collections.

There was a 19th century fishing village, a ghost ship, a shipyard. There was a crown of shards of mirror that summoned a supernatural plague. There was a sort of shadow vine regurgitated from the mouth of a young lover. One hundred years have passed. There was another community, with a seer. There were dances in shirts and underwear, animal masks and rituals. There was a third age and a modern young woman who donned the crown and became the Cursed Queen. There were strobe effects and a blood moon.

Some were magnificent. Some were stupid. A lot of things were difficult to follow. But there were also some pretty amazing clothes, when you could see them.

In a sort of prequel documentary, the designer opened up about the painstaking experimentation and hours it took to create the outfits: the jackets and dresses spilling out old wadding made from animal corpses and recycled fabrics. , initially to eight or 10 times their size, then shrunk to mimic the effects of time and tide via an enzymatic and acid wash; the sweater made by assembling crocheted “delft” checks (the palette was very Dutch Renaissance); giant overcoats with old newspaper clippings sewn into their surfaces like stains from the past. The sorcerer’s robe made of mirror shards, sack robes and a voluminous lace and silk robe.

Was it the tailoring or was it the costume? Like all clothes, a bit of both.

In his introduction, Mr Galliano said it was about “anxiety, the power of nature and, in the face of it, how helpless we are”. It may have been expressed in fiction and fashion, but after last year there was no debate.


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Fashion style

The 7 best trends of the Resort 2022 collections


The first reveals of what we’ll be wearing in 2022 have fallen and it’s an understatement to say we’re excited. The fashion calendar has been a bit confused lately (thanks Panny-D) but it’s June that the designers share their recourse, cruise or pre-spring collections.

Not as vibrant as the traditional February and September Fashion Week shows, the resort collections are full of really useful bullion coins that will truly be worthy purchases for your wardrobe. Originally, these collections – which hit stores in November and remain on sale until the following June – were designed for the super rich to wear on their winter vacation in the sun (hence, “resort Or ‘cruise’), but now they’re a convenient way to get a fix for next season, right now. And at this point of the corona roller coaster, we are all to look forward.

12 epic summer fashion trends to swap your trusty loungewear for this season

In keeping with the vibe where normative trends are finished, there is a good sprinkle of ongoing trends in all of the collections, which means you can make sustainable choices when shopping (this is our kind of consumerism. .)

So what are the great moods that we spotted in the 2022 resort collections?

1: Body con

Did you think Hervé Léger’s iconic bandage dresses and ’90s cropped bodycon silhouette were gone for good? Like all fashion classics, they are ripe for a revival. The resort’s boldest trend continues the summer vibe for sexy dressing. Body-hugging cuts that hug your figure come in juicy colors, with cutout details or gathered details perfect for going out.
Spotted at David Koma, Balmain and Versace


2: designer denim

Another trend with the feeling of a throwback, in a good way, is the resurgence of denim that’s showing up on everything – not just jeans. Stylish dresses, suits, skirts and jackets all get the true blue treatment. What about your jeans? For the station, the flagship silhouette is the wide leg, high waist and low to the ground. They contrast happily with our loungewear and locked tracksuits.
Spotted at Alberta Ferretti, Carolina Herrera and Chloé


3: Social benefits

Adding a whimsical new detail to your outfits, without having to change your entire wardrobe, this is what the best trends are. For the resort, the fringe is that thing. Add edging to a skirt, dresses or sleeve and feel the rustle of the fabric lift your spirits – fashion should always be fun!
Spotted at Chloé, Dior and Chanel


4: Goddess dress

Sometimes trends are a slow development… changing with each season… and sometimes a full curve disrupts the status quo. You can’t go further with a tracksuit than a divine chiffon dress, complete with a Greek-inspired drape (literally, at Dior, they put on their show at the Panathenaic Stadium in Athens.)
Spotted at Dior, Alberta Ferretti and Huishan Zhang


5: Bold Shoulder

We’ve spotted oversized collars in resort collections, but the focus of the attire shifts to your shoulders. Whether it’s a sleek curve, a sweet puff, or a sci-fi costume statement, adding a bold shoulder detail to any outfit will add an update. instant day to your look.
Spotted at Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini


6: Sports day

Designers are savvy enough to know that some of us will need to take small steps to move away from our athletic addiction. So the inclusion of bombers, sweatpants, hoodies, down jackets, and drawstrings was an expected feature of the resort’s shows. But these are not your average heather gray joggers. Ever bolder colors, slogans and neon tones were splashed onto classic athletic silhouettes as well as designer sneakers to drool over.
Spotted at Dior, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Versace


7: suits you

In a world where WFH is the new normal, one would think that pantsuits would slowly become obsolete. But the absence made the heart more affectionate, and tailoring has been a key aspect of street style for attendees of recent IRL shows. For the seaside resort, the pantsuit is looser or shorter. The colors are more offbeat and the details more surprising. These are suits to be worn with sneakers and a t-shirt rather than with strong heels and a briefcase.
Spotted at Alberta Ferretti, Lanvin and Nina Ricci

At least we’re ready for 2022 in terms of fashion … Go for it!

Find out more about Glamor UK Fashion Managing Director Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton

Mulberry has just released a totally joyful collection with Priya Ahluwalia to celebrate its 50 years



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Fashion style

Nigerian models want to rock the catwalks: “Africa is the future”


Champagne corks popped and glitter sparkled like a thousand little stars in Lagos, Nigeria’s economic capital, where an international model cast was looking for the face of the future.

Elizabeth Elohor is sure it will be an African. The former supermodel established Nigeria’s first modeling agency in 2004, when there was no fashion week on the continent, very few local designers, and little high-end fashion.

Now with his cast “Future Face Africa”, Elohor hopes to extend the search for future talent from Nigeria to the rest of the continent.

Before the 2000s, there were few black faces on the covers of women’s magazines except for iconic figures like Naomi Campbell, Donyale Luna, and Beverly Johnson.

In Nigeria, the most populous country in Africa with over 200 million inhabitants, the few who dared to venture into modeling at the time were independent, vulnerable and had to distribute their own portfolios to companies specializing in modeling. event planning and advertising.

When Elohor returned from London in 2004 to found Beth Model Agency, she was innovating, said Marius Isikalu, a barely 30-year-old former top model who now works alongside her.

Read more: How today’s models become socially and morally aware

“Elizabeth was a pioneer. She signed all the models known at the time and she said ‘If you want to use them, that’s how much you’re going to pay, and those are the terms,” ​​”Isikalu said standing on the floor. red carpet event.

“She set the rules, the prices, she set the pace.”

The turning point for the modeling world in Africa came in 2010 when South Africa and Nigeria organized fashion weeks that were recognized internationally as “select” in the fashion world.

The recent “Black Lives Matter” movement and leading advocates of black female beauty are also helping to change trends around the world. But the reasons are also economic.

“International designers like Louis Vuitton, Dolce & Gabbana, Balmain … have started to realize that a lot of their clients are actually from Africa,” said Elohor, seated in a mustard yellow armchair of a designer. Nigerian.

“Back then, out of 50 agencies, you probably would have had five models and now an agency can have as many as 10, 15 African models.”

Beth Model Management, one of Nigeria’s leading modeling agencies, has started the process of finding and training potential models, in order to showcase Africa’s different shades of beauty and vibrant African fashions. Photo: AFP

“Africa is the future”

Tobi Momoh is one of the new generation of models. Smiling and full of life, the 19-year-old goes from table to table in her fitted black dress, greeting the stars of the Nigerian Nollywood film scene, the royalty of Afropop music or the stars of reality TV.

“I grew up thinking that I would be like all the other girls who struggle to find a job after school. But Elizabeth saw me on the road, she asked my mother’s permission to sign me in her agency. and now! Look at me! It was so simple, “she said.

Tobi was only 15 when she won the Elite Model Look Africa competition, which propelled her to the catwalks in Milan, Paris and several international agencies.

“We have the beauties to rock the catwalks,” she said. Elizabeth knows it too. And even if she no longer has time to walk the streets or the markets of Lagos, her passion for unearthing rare pearls of African beauty remains with her.

Read more: Style Watch: For actor and model Kit Mah, style is where its comfort lies

Through “Future Face Africa”, a huge cast first via social networks and then face-to-face, she wants to broaden her research to the whole continent and make fashion move in Africa.

The growing sector has allowed the emergence of many actors, designers, make-up artists, but also photographers. Famous Nigerian fashion photographer Kola Oshalusi has also witnessed the explosion in demand and professionalization of modeling in Africa over the past decade.

Even Nigeria’s growing security concerns, high inflation and economic hardship cannot take away the glitz and the sense of hope.

“Africa is the future,” said Oshalusi, wearing a stylish beige hat and cotton jacket. “Nigeria is Africa. Nigerian models are confident, they bring so much energy to the catwalks, they know what they want, and it has helped to build an incredible reputation on the international stage. ” – AFP


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Fashion style

10 local brands of linen sets to fight humidity


If the humidity is getting the better of you – the hair is sparkling, the workouts are sweaty, the clothes unbearable – it’s time to switch to linen. Breathable natural fiber has long since passed from furnishing into fashion with chic linen sets.

From Louis Vuitton, Dior to Fendi, the summer 2021 fashion shows were a seer of the future. Big brands have also followed suit with linen sets, pants and shirts becoming a staple, albeit slightly more expensive, on their shelves. After all, what fabric can keep you cool in 90 degree weather, especially if you lead an active lifestyle at home and outdoors?

It’s not just international fashion brands that have given the natural fabric their approval. Recently, fashion designer Manish Malhotra collaborated with BRFL Textiles Private Limited (BTPL) to work on a line using their new material LinenVogue – La Classé. LinenVogue – La Classé is a natural, sustainable and GMO-free fabric. An unexpected choice for the designer, Malhotra is sure to add a touch of glamor to this natural fabric. “A linen fabric that is not only comfortable but also affable with our weather conditions. Linen has the unique quality due to which it improves after each wash and, therefore, creating it will be an exciting process.

So if you’re looking for linen ensembles that promise to keep you cool this summer, and with the added caveat of looking stylish. Then these linen sets will be your summer savior. Take fashion influencer Sakshi Sindwani’s advice on how you can style the looks and say sayonara to the humidity on the way out.

1

A white one-shoulder or vaccine-ready cropped top with loose linen pants is the only way to have a “summer somewhere.” The men’s crop top (Rs 3,270) and Belize pants (Rs 3,999) are essentially wardrobe essentials that you will keep season after season.

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2

This Sakshi Sindwani endorsed three piece set from A Curve Story (Rs 3,400) is essentially a visual representation of all of our tropical fantasies. Easy, airy with a flamingo print bra, it’s the solution to all our hot and sticky woes.

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3

If you are looking for calming clothes, Summer House is your savior. The Roma shirt (Rs 4,000) and the Gul pants (Rs 5,500) with their abstract lemon print and their simple style are definitely on the agenda.

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4

Hand-drawn and block-printed with pomegranate or anar plants, the Nasha jacket (Rs 38,000) paired with matching pants is an absolutely fruitful way to embrace the trend. The loose jacket is finished with mother-of-pearl and can even be worn as a shirt. .

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5

Minimalism takes over linen ensembles with this piece from Love Birds Studio. The Outline coordinating linen set (Rs 22,900) in a vibrant turquoise hue features a layered detail on the back and contrasting ties.

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6

Good Earth’s new diffusion line, Flow is designed for comfortable dressing in a corporate world. Made from a blend of cotton and kala linen, the gray striped jacket (Rs 12,000) and pants (Rs 9,000) can easily be styled or put on as casual pieces.

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7

We loved the muted tropical print on the Sediment (Rs 13,000) linen set from Cord Studio. A sleeveless layered collar jacket with wide leg pants is the modern equivalent of a salwar suit which is basically our go-to for comfortable dressing.

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8

Tropical prints, soft hues and linen sets basically go together to beat the wet weather. This is why the Dash and Dot linen skirt set (Rs 6,280) caught our attention. The bespoke finish and size detail of the paper bag is an added bonus.

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9

Don’t let the cloudy sky get you down, the Khara Kapas Linen Set (Rs 7,650) in Powder Blue is sure to brighten your mood. Layered button closure and comfortable Bermuda shorts, this set can take you from zoom calls to lounging around the house.

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ten

The loose, fusing silhouette and earthy palette of this House of Fett creation redefines the notion of linen clothing as being frustrated. The Mersin stacked hooded pants (Rs 2,999) and the Mersin cropped top (Rs 1,999) are made from a fine crease-resistant linen blend.

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