There is one fabric in this Proenza Schouler collection that is a real wonder. “We’ve never seen anything like this before,” Lazaro Hernandez said during a preview. “The sequins are baked into the yarn itself, so when you knit it, it’s all embedded. It looks like Lurex, but it’s a nice spongy knit. The two-column dresses they’ve made with this fabric are just about the most elegant things we’ve seen all season. Evening wear is a neglected category at the moment. This may be a lingering effect of the pandemic. But the elegance of the columns is matched only by their ease. “We love that it’s basically t-shirt dresses,” added Jack McCollough.
In the pre-seasons, the Proenza Schouler duo leans towards experimentation. Scrolling through these images clearly shows that they are strongly drawn to the texture and feel of the resort. In addition to that spongy sequin knit, they used silk velvet for strappy dresses and matching sets, three-dimensional rib knit to coordinate cardigans and flares, and cropped shearling on a coat. belt. The saturated colors of velvet and shearling especially added to their appeal.
After texture, their other concern here was form. It’s tempting to see 1940s proportions in nipped-waist jackets and full skirts whose sculptural hems have been reinforced with horsehair. Dior’s 1947 New Look was a repudiation of years of wartime restraint and sacrifice. We haven’t dealt with deprivation on this scale, but the designers are determined to evoke an upbeat vibe and exuberant volumes are one way to do that. Sweatpants and frilly ankle socks paired with a different pinched jacket is another cheekier way to go.
Regarding the form, they revisited the corsets which were the building blocks of their first collection. “Old Proenza vibes,” Hernandez said, but updated in suit fabric for a pop of surprise.