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Comoli’s FW22 clothing collection epitomizes Japanese minimalism

I like to think I know a thing or two about Japanese fashion. That’s why I care a little about clothes and that remains my main objective, much more than anything that happens on the Paris catwalks. To date, I only really use social media to follow Japanese fashion brands and stores – it’s that deep.

So, safe to say I’m a little jaded. I’m not often impressed with a lot of new stuff, frankly, although there are a lot that I like at first glance.

Comoli, designed by Keijiro Komori, isn’t a particularly obscure brand and doesn’t require a ton of Japanese fashion experience to check out. It is, however, a deliberately difficult etiquette to study without some knowledge of Japanese and a great case study for what works in Japanese fashion,

Although Comoli’s products are sold online through a variety of retailers, including international stockists Neighbor and Rendezvous, the brand does not use social media.

Komori himself isn’t online either, which underscores Comoli’s need-to-know aesthetic.

This intentionally primitive presence emphasizes Comoli’s product: the clothes must speak for themselves, since the brand deliberately remains mummy.

Comoli’s clothes do it very well.

As you can see from the no-frills lookbook images, Comoli doesn’t make flashy statement pieces.

It focuses entirely on bespoke fabrication, comfortable silhouettes and the same kind of minimalism embodied by, say, Martin Margiela’s run at Hermès.

Felted wools, crisp poplins, hairy knit cotton, neppy corduroy, undulating lambskin.

Comoli approaches clothing in the same way as a painter approaches a canvas. The idea is to physically manifest a personal expression.

The silhouettes are often the same – Comoli rarely strays from its comfort zone of familiar shapes rooted in European and American menswear history – but the construction and textile selection are second to none.

These are not clothes for the masses and therefore Comoli does not use social media. He doesn’t need to communicate anything that his clothes alone can’t convey.

Hazel J. Edmonds

The author Hazel J. Edmonds