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Pyrenex is the French brand of timeless technical clothing

Welcome to Brand To Watch, a style column from COMPLEX UK. Here we’ll spotlight the top emerging brands from the UK and beyond, asking them what sets them apart from the crowd, how they came through an unprecedented time and determining their vision for fashion and the future. .

As the outerwear market continues to grow, Pyrenex has been providing timeless technical clothing for over 160 years.

Founded in 1859, the family brand has always supplied the best down products and outerwear, sourced from the southwest of France. The family’s great-grandfather, Abel Crabos, harvested feathers from the markets and farms around his village at the foot of the Pyrenees, and it has been a family affair ever since.

The brand has gone from making sleeping bags and other gear designed for the negative conditions of their local community to creating coats that have come down from the mountains to the streets of today. This forward-looking aesthetic is evident in their Fall / Winter 2021/22 collection, which showcases the technicality and warmth of Pyrenex clothing on display in Manchester’s North Quarter and Roaches, in the Peak District.

Inspired by its range of colors on the rooftops of Paris, the new collection presents a multitude of the brand’s cutting-edge clothing through the lens of photographer Ian Wallman. The collection is as ready for country hikes as it is for city outings, with highly technical fabrics blending perfectly between the two environments.

Pyrenex’s new lookbook highlights pieces that emphasize exactly that. The oversized and chunky Sten Jacket is available in a shiny taffeta fabric, while the Masha Jacket is a perfect layering option for transitional climates, with the brand’s Spoutnic Jacket featuring a windproof and cut-off Mini Ripstop fabric. wind and natural down padding for ultimate flexibility in all conditions.

Pyrenex’s longevity in the game is proof of its technical prowess, with the brand’s heritage and tradition of engineering perfect quality clothing for today’s consumers. Having developed their expertise to create meticulously designed garments with cutting edge technology at their heart, Complex believes Pyrenex is a brand that should be on your radar. We met them to tell us about their heritage and their philosophy, and their plans for 2022.


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Nordstrom Black Friday 2021 offers: Ugg, Zella, Sorel and more

Looking for more offers for the holidays? Visit our Cyberweek guide to see all the bestsellers to do before and during Black Friday.

NordstromThe first Black Friday sale kicked off last week and continues through the weekend – and although the initial offers have already been purchased, the retailer has just added a ton of new inventory to brands for clothing, beauty and the home.

You can find a huge selection of Kiehl’s skincare, cute pairs of Timberland boots, great deals on Zella workout clothes like leggings and t-shirts and lots of kids’ shoes on sale, as well as discounts on Staub cookware and Casper bedding. Read on for some of our favorite picks from the new additions, then shop the sale at Nordstromthe site of.

Timberland Courmayeur Valley Water Resistant Hiking Boot ($ 96, originally $ 135; nordstrom.com)

Nordstrom

Timberland Courmayeur Valley Water Resistant Hiking Boots

Whether you are on a trail in the urban jungle or on a real trail, these hiking shoes will accompany you in style and keep your feet dry. They look just as good with jeans and a chunky knit as they do with a winter sweater dress.

Zella High Waist Studio Lite Pocket 7/8 Leggings
Nordstrom

Zella High Waist Studio Lite Pocket 7/8 Leggings

A customer favorite, these 7/8 leggings are a perfect length all year round, and the moisture-wicking fabric keeps you cool and comfortable during workout classes and yoga asanas.

Sweaty Betty Essentials Sweatshirt
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Sweaty Betty Essentials Sweatshirt

It’s the oversized crew-neck sweatshirt you need in your loungewear arsenal: it has an oversized fit and a hem that drops just below the buttocks for a legging-friendly length.

Zella Performance T-shirt
Nordstrom

Zella Performance T-shirt

Both for yoga class and layering under a jacket for running, this performance t-shirt gets top marks for its moisture-wicking fabric and anti-chafe design. It is also on sale in a long sleeve version for just under $ 20.

BP 50mm Round Blue Light Filtering Glasses
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BP 50mm Round Blue Light Filtering Glasses

Designed to block the blue light from your screens and devices (which we are on pretty much all the time), these round wire glasses are designed to protect your eyes, reduce fatigue and look great.

Nordstrom Men's 3-Pack Tongue Socks
Nordstrom

Nordstrom Men’s 3-Pack Tongue Socks

Whether you choose black or gray, your feet will thank you for swapping out the holey pairs you’ve worn this year. Buy this pack of three invisible socks for only $ 2 a pair.

Ray-Ban Wayfarer 50mm Sunglasses
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Ray-Ban Wayfarer 50mm Sunglasses

These iconic shades are currently at 40% off, and thanks to the classic lines and tortoise shell colourway, you can be assured that they are as stylish in winter as they are in summer.

Sorel Kezar Waterproof Chukka Boot
Nordstrom

Sorel Kezar Waterproof Chukka Boot

We love rain boots that don’t look like rain boots, and these Sorel chukkas keep your outfit in place while keeping your feet warm and dry. The grippy sole also gets bonus points on wet and slippery sidewalks.

Our Place Serrated Slicing Knife
Nordstrom

Our Place Serrated Slicing Knife

Slip through crispy loaves of bread and plump tomatoes with this serrated knife from Our Place, the makers of the famous Always Pan. The blade is made of German steel and the wooden handle is ergonomically designed for good balance.

Staub 7 quart enameled cast iron round casserole dish
Nordstrom

Staub 7 quart enameled cast iron round casserole dish

The French-made Staub enameled cast iron casserole dish is perfect for braising, roasting, soups and sauces. An advantage over the Crucible, the lid is designed to retain moisture, meaning anything you braise stays nice and moist throughout.

Hawkins New York Papilio terrycloth washcloth
Nordstrom

Hawkins New York Papilio terrycloth washcloth

A pretty pattern not only brightens up a plain linen background, but hides any traces of makeup that might have come off during (face) washing. Three mottled colourways of mustard, terracotta and gray also coordinate with any larger bathroom color palette.

Casper Hyperlite Duvet Cover
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Casper Hyperlite Duvet Cover

Designed to be breathable, this duvet cover is a plus for warm sleepers: it’s woven from ultra-light Tencel lyocell, which allows air to circulate as you catch your zzzs.

All-Clad 8-inch and 10-inch Brushed Stainless Steel Non-Stick Frying Pan Set
Nordstrom

All-Clad 8-inch and 10-inch Brushed Stainless Steel Non-Stick Frying Pan Set

NordstromAll-Clad 8-inch and 10-inch Brushed Stainless Steel Non-Stick Frying Pan Set

All-Clad makes some of the best cookware on the market – the pros swear by that – and right now you can score two incredibly handy frying pan sizes to add to the holiday baking rotation.

Kiehl's Ultra Face Cream
Nordstrom

Kiehl’s Ultra Face Cream

This Jar Winter Skin Recoverer is a rich moisturizer perfect for chilly gusts and dry air. A little goes a long way with this one, so it will last you through the cold months to come as well.

Mario Badescu Glycolic Foaming Cleanser Set
Nordstrom

Mario Badescu Glycolic Foaming Cleanser Set

Keep one in the shower and one as a backup in the closet for the rest of the season: this two-pack glycolic foaming cleanser is ideal for gently dissolving the dry, scaly skin that comes with the wind and weather of this period. of the year.

Jack Black Jack and Carry Set ($ 48.75, originally $ 65; nordstrom.com)

Jack Black Jack and transport set
Nordstrom

Jack Black Jack and transport set

Found only at Nordstrom, this all-in-one set comes in a great Dopp kit and contains travel essentials: cedar and cardamom dual-use body wash and shampoo; lip balm SPF 25; and, of course, deodorant.

Benefit Hello Happy Air Stick Foundation SPF 20
Nordstrom

Benefit Hello Happy Air Stick Foundation SPF 20

This stick foundation applies where you need it, not where you don’t – and it’s designed to be buildable for the coverage you need. In addition, it also includes sun protection for your skin with an SPF 25.

Kiehl’s Grapefruit Liquid Bath & Shower Body Wash ($ 22.40, originally $ 28; nordstrom.com)

Kiehl's Grapefruit Liquid Bath & Shower Cleaner
Nordstrom

Kiehl’s Grapefruit Liquid Bath & Shower Cleaner

Start the day with a touch of citrus: This gentle cleanser from Kiehl’s uses humectants to lock in your skin’s natural moisture, and the subtle scent will gently linger once you’re wiped off.

Ugg Classic II Glitz Kids Boots
Nordstrom

Ugg Classic II Glitz Kids Boots

A classic choice – and among the most comfortable boots for kids – these Uggs also feature a touch of sparkle on the heel.

Nordstrom Baby Print Bunting
Nordstrom

Nordstrom Baby Print Bunting

Quilted and super comfy fabric, a desert pink color and a cute floral design keep little ones warm and adorable during the colder months. We also love the folded up mittens. And did we mention the adorable hood?

Nike Sportswear Kids Club terry jersey shorts
Nordstrom

Nike Sportswear Kids Club terry jersey shorts

French terrycloth shorts are comfortable for winter lounging and perfect for play in the spring and summer to come. Stock up on a pair (or two) while they’re $ 12.

For bigger Nordstrom offers, see CNN coupons.


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Homage to Dana Grote Teeter, 1964-2021, with French macroons and very good memories

Five weeks ago, on October 18, Dana Grote swing died surrounded by her family. She was 57 years old. On Saturday, November 20, a celebration of the life of the Evanston resident was held in the Crystal Ballroom on Chicago Avenue, an event attended by nearly 300 of her closest friends and family. Ordinarily, a statement like this would sound like a hyperbole, but in Dana’s case, it could well be an understatement.

Except for the excruciatingly sad reason for the gathering, it was like a fabulous party that only Dana could have planned. Fresh, vibrant flowers, lovingly supplied by her uncle, have been elegantly arranged on each table, adding a much needed splash of color in the blandly colored grand ballroom. Hand-sized sandwiches that could be eaten without making a mess. Many desserts that one could try without needing utensils. Abundant amounts of delicate French macarons and tiny Eiffel Tower charms to remind everyone of their favorite city. Boxes of tissues on each table. The queue to sign the guestbook that never gave up.

Friends and family of Dana Teeter gather by the lake on November 21 for a memorial march in her honor. (Photo by Andrew Krause)

In addition to her loving family who traveled from Lexington, Ky., To attend the private church service leading up to the celebration, the room was packed with friends of Dana. Women she had known from primary and secondary school. College friends and sisterhood sisters of Vanderbilt University. Girlfriends from when she was single and worked for Marshall Field’s. Evanston’s beloved neighbors and church friends. Other parents whose children – also present – had been in class or on baseball teams with one of Dana and Chuck’s sons. Friends of the book club and the garden club. The people who accompanied her when she was training or walking (with or without the family dog, Zoey). His clients. The people she worked with at the New Life Interim Shelter in Rogers Park. Even his favorite oncologist, who had of course become a close friend and spoke to him regularly even though he had moved to California – he flew to be there. He told Amy, Dana’s close friend and neighbor, “I wouldn’t have missed this for the world. Of course I entered.

The slideshow her devoted sister Allison curated and presented, summing up Dana’s far too brief life, was beautiful, funny, festive, and made those in attendance miss her even more, as if possible. There were a lot of tears. After her conclusion, ending with a beautiful video clip of her preparations for her wedding day, several people approached the microphone to share their special memories of Dana. There were several common threads running through each unique and personal praise.

She was thoughtful. Dana remembered the details, the dates, the cards sent, the baked cakes. She listened. She was fully present when she spoke to you. She made you feel special. She was a problem solver and a hard worker. She was the unofficial big sister of so many people. Allison shared, “There was no one better to talk to when you were having a bad day, needed a second look at a presentation, or a good pep talk.” Her cousin Tiffany described Dana as “our modern millennial version of Mary Tyler Moore, with a dose of Carrie Bradshaw’s passion for fashion for good measure.” Another speaker greeted Dana’s grieving parents, Joyce and Charles, saying, “You have raised a wonderful daughter. Look around this room. See what impact she has had on so many people.

Kelvin Johnson, social worker and program director at New Life Interim Shelter where Dana was a dedicated volunteer and board member, described how, at one point, he was particularly disheartened by the issues he was having at the shelter. , and he prayed to God, ask, “Why am I here?” What is my goal ? Soon after, he realized that there was this lady who came to his office all the time, and for every problem he shared with her, she had a friend who maybe could, and often did, help him find a solution. Over time, plans for a renovated shelter that languished like drawings turned into a real construction project. Johnson said Dana always focused on the babies who were in the homeless shelter. It wasn’t their fault that they were there – what could we do to make things better for them? Focusing on babies renewed her mind and sense of purpose. Johnson is convinced: “God sent me Dana.

Towards the end of her remarks, Tiffany summed up the cornerstone of Dana’s life. “Her philanthropic accomplishments were extraordinary, but her crowning achievement was the beautiful family life she built with Chuck, Ben, Luke and Zoey.” Of all the words used to describe Dana, “wife and mom” were the most important to her. She savored every achievement of her two sons, enjoyed every game, celebrated every success and suffered every disappointment. Her family was her world and the reason she was willing to try any treatment that would allow her to spend more time with them.

Towards the end of her remarks, Allison quoted Dana, who may have quoted Audrey Hepburn, as saying “Paris is always a good idea.” On Sunday morning, a healthy-sized crowd gathered by the lake for a brisk 3-mile walk in memory of and honoring Dana. joy of living. Despite previous weather reports announcing possible rain or even snow, the sun was shining. How could he not? May his memory be a blessing.


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‘We are five to ten years behind’: a long way to go to solve Australia’s textile waste crisis | australian fashion

Last week, the Australian Fashion Council received a $ 1 million grant to start working with the industry to reduce the country’s mountain of textile waste. That’s a pittance compared to the money offered to recycle other products, however, and it has left some in the industry feeling disappointed.

Julie Boulton and Aleasha McCallion are project managers at the Monash Sustainable Development Institute and co-authors of a report on a circular T-shirt which was released in March of this year. McCallion says the $ 1 million subsidy, compared to other waste streams, is further proof that the fashion industry is “consistently overlooked and underestimated, both on economic value and how the system affects everyone ”.

The grant, which will help establish the country’s first national textile products stewardship program, is part of a $ 1 billion plan to transform Australia’s waste and recycling that was announced last year. At the time, $ 190 million has been allocated for new infrastructure to recycle plastic, paper, tires and glass, a figure that eclipses the amount so far allocated to fashion waste.

Fashion Council Interim CEO Kellie Hush said there was “a long way to go of course, but it’s a good start for the federal government to join us in realizing the problem.”

The problem being the 23kg of clothing the average Australian throws in landfills each year – placing Australians in the unenviable position of being the second largest consumers of textiles in the world, per capita, behind the United States. While it is possible to recycle clothing in Australia, the sector has very low adoption rates due to a lack of infrastructure to collect, sort and recycle textiles.

The council will use grant money to work with industry stakeholders – including designers, retailers, manufacturers, charities and textile recyclers – to create three reports by March 2023 The first will examine the data and material flow. The second will analyze global initiatives, policies and technologies promoting circularity in textiles. The third will make recommendations on how to move forward, including a roadmap to 2030 in accordance with Objectives of the National Waste Policy Action Plan.

Hush says the first step is to work with the industry to investigate what is realistic. She says that once the reports are written, “we will have recommendations and I can assure you that some of them, or most of them, will require investments with the federal government and private companies to help us. finance these programs ”.

Alice Payne is Associate Professor of Fashion Design at the Queensland University of Technology and one of the experts who will shape the program. She says, “This is just the start of what will actually be a longer journey… this amount of funds is a way to bring stakeholders together. She says they will build on existing work in scientific literature and reports from around the world and adapt it to the “Australian context in consultation with Australian stakeholders”.

These conversations will explore changes in design and manufacturing for sustainability, as well as charitable recycling and used business models, the need for innovation and investment in recycling technology, and consumer education. For now, the focus is on the industry and not on policy or legislative changes.

The principles of a circular fashion industry are well established, but have recently been popularized by international nonprofit organizations like the Ellen MacArthur Foundation, which produces major research and reports on fashion circularity. According to the foundation, a circular fashion industry is one where clothing is designed to be recyclable and sustainable, so that it can be worn over and repaired, and shared and resold until end of life, when are collected to be recycled or returned to Earth.

McCallion and Boulton took inspiration from the foundation’s work to write their report on a circular t-shirt. “We should seek to adapt the great overseas examples to the Australian context and work together to move the agenda forward as quickly as possible,” says McCallion. “We are not reinventing the wheel.

They say there is evidence overseas that circularity works when you have a collaboration with industry alongside legislation and policy change.

Boulton says: “We are five to ten years behind what is happening in the EU, in France, in the Netherlands, in Germany. They’re having these debates right now on labeling and banning textile waste… that’s what we should be doing. It’s silly to focus on locally made products, it’s such a small part. We need to go beyond product stewardship and we need government regulation to look at what’s happening and stop the bad things. “

The European Union is currently working on legislation to manage and control textile waste. From 2023, all clothing and footwear sold in the EU will carry color-coded labels informing customers of the product’s environmental impact. Under the European Commission’s Waste Framework Directive, member states will have to set up separate collections for textiles by 2025. Payne says whether or not this model is followed will be determined by “conversations with councils as well as with state governments, etc. It can be part of it, but it is something that will have to be determined in the group.

BlockTexx founders Graham Ross and Adrian Jones present their fabric recycling process. Photograph: Supplied

Adrian Jones is the co-founder of BlockTexx, a technology company that is building Australia’s first large-scale textile recycling facility in Logan, Queensland. He also thinks the government needs to establish a legislative framework, because under voluntary codes companies don’t change.

“We only saw significant changes in France, the Netherlands and Denmark because governments said we were heading towards an export ban, or a system of remuneration for producers or consumers, or a combination of all of the above. Then we saw a significant growth in chemical recycling on land.

The BlockTexx factory uses chemical recycling technology, which is preferred over mechanics because it produces a higher quality material that can be recycled again. In three years, the plant is expected to process 10,000 tonnes of textile waste per year. Jones says, “If you want to solve the textile waste problem, you have to do it in volume, you cannot be artisanal. “

He says the infrastructure required for large-scale recycling would cost “tens of millions of dollars,” but it doesn’t all have to come from the government. To finance their new plant, BlockTexx raised $ 5.5 million: $ 1 million from the federal government, $ 1 million from the Queensland government and $ 3.5 million from private investment.

Despite this, it is fortunate that the $ 1 million grant has been awarded to the fashion council. “I just hope it’s well spent and doesn’t produce a lot of research that says ‘wouldn’t it be good if we did something about textile waste?’ We kind of know that.

Making carbon neutral clothes from seaweed: designers take on fast fashion - vidéo
Making carbon neutral clothes from seaweed: designers take on fast fashion – vidéo


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Sold (Bought): Kits Spacious Townhouse Showcases New York Brownstone Style

The interior has Brazilian cherry hardwood floors throughout, a focal point fireplace in the living room, and patio doors leading to a west facing patio

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Weekly roundup of three recently sold properties in Metro Vancouver.

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1729 Maple Street, Vancouver

Type: Three bedroom, two bathroom townhouse

Cut: 1,854 square feet

British Columbia Rating: $ 1,732,000

Listed for: $ 1,998,000

Sold for: $ 2,230,000

Sold on: 12 october

Market days in this listing: Seven

Listing Agent: Faith Wilson of the Faith Wilson group

Buyers Agent: Robin Bardon at Oakwyn Realty Downtown

Patio doors lead outside to a west facing patio.
Patio doors lead outside to a west facing patio. PNG

The big sale: The distinctive brick exterior of the three-story, six-unit Georgia award-winning townhouses on Maple development is reminiscent of the popular brown stone townhouses in New York City. The interior of this townhouse has Brazilian cherry wood floors throughout, a central fireplace in the living room, patio doors leading to a west facing patio, and an elegant kitchen with Shaker style cabinetry, Stainless steel appliances and an island with breakfast bar seating. The second level offers two spacious bedrooms served by a family bathroom while the top floor has a boudoir and a private master suite with a luxurious en-suite bathroom, a walk-in closet and a balcony with mountain views and the neighborhood. The house comes with two underground parking spaces, a monthly fee of $ 632.13, and pets and rentals are allowed.

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This two bedroom condo in downtown Vancouver was listed for $ 668,000 and sold for $ 665,000.
This two bedroom condo in downtown Vancouver was listed for $ 668,000 and sold for $ 665,000. Photo by FLORIOS DEMOSTEN /PNG

215 – 1080 Pacific Street, Vancouver

Type: Two bedroom, one bathroom apartment

Cut: 788 square feet

British Columbia Rating: $ 566,000

Listed for: $ 668,000

Sold for: $ 665,000

Sold on: August 29

Market days in this listing: 19

Listing Agent: Owen Bigland at Macdonald Realty Westmar

Buyers Agent: Cory Mitton at ReMax Saber Realty Group

The big sale: This completely remodeled two bedroom condo is part of the Californian, a concrete building on the south side of Pacific Street in downtown Vancouver with the Aquatic Center and Sunset Beach just one block away. Built in 1981, the building has 84 units with free shared laundry facilities, rentals capped at 33 units, and pets allowed with restrictions. This particular unit benefits from many upgrades including laminate floors, crisp white kitchen offset by stainless steel appliances, modern bathroom, and updated closets, blinds, and paint. The outdoor space was also approached with the installation of patio floors, artificial turf and privacy panels. The house comes with a parking spot and storage locker and a monthly maintenance fee of $ 497.83.

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407 – 30515 Cardinal Avenue, Abbotsford

Type: Apartment 1 bedroom, 1 bathroom

Cut: 627 square feet

British Columbia Rating: $ 270,000

Listed for: $ 349,999

Sold for: $ 332,750

Sold on: October 8

Market days in this listing: 25

Listing Agent: Anil Mann at ReMax Dream Home Realty and Sunny Sharma at Sutton Group – West Coast Realty (Abbotsford)

Buyers Agent: Adam Chahl at Oakwyn Realty

The big sale: This single storey home is located in the Tamarind Westside complex of Abbotsford West, a low rise 188 unit building that has four levels. Due to its position at the corner of Cardinal Avenue and Mount Lehman Road, residents enjoy the convenience of a myriad of local amenities (including the Highstreet Mall) and direct freeway access. This one bedroom unit has a westerly exposure with a balcony, 12 foot high vaulted ceilings in the master bedroom as well as double wardrobes and a four piece en-suite bathroom, open plan living room with an electric fireplace and a kitchen that has been finished with a double height counter to accommodate bar seating. A bonus factor is two parking spaces and a stratum that allows rentals and pets. The monthly maintenance fee for this home is $ 221.00.

These transactions have been compiled by Nicola Way of BestHomesBC.com.

Please note that sales can only be published after their completion date.

Real estate agents – send your recent sales to [email protected]

  1. This home on Lost Lake Drive in Coquitlam was listed at $ 1,288,900 and sold for $ 1,465,000.

    Sold (Purchased): Ample Living Space, Upgrades Bring Deals on Coquitlam Home

  2. This East Vancouver home was listed for $ 3,598,000 and sold for $ 3,300,000.

    Sold (bought): The house near Main Street has a contemporary look

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Presents with a little history

Prices vary by state, but, as an example, a selection of Cartier Love bracelets in gold were recently priced at around $ 6,000 each on 1stdibs, which is around $ 1,500 less than similar styles on the Cartier site.

Buyers like Ann Bamesberger, an executive at a medical research company who lives in Palo Alto, Calif., Appreciate these offers. Last year, she bought a resale Hermes scarf for a friend at RealReal for around $ 150, about a third of its retail price. The recipient, she said, “was so thrilled. “

Ms Bamesberger, who loves brands like Gucci and Bottega Veneta, said she enjoys receiving resale gifts from friends, who tend to spend a few hundred dollars on gifts from each other. “I prefer to make the mark and have it used gently and get something that I love,” she said.

But buying on the resale market is, like so many things, affected by supply and demand. You can raise the prices more during the holiday season, and people will buy it, ”said Paola Tapia, an Atlanta-based independent luxury authenticator who also sells designer items owned by Poshmark and her own website.

Frantic gift-shoppers, she said, are willing to pay more for certain items, sometimes even more than the retail price. “They are impulse buyers,” she said. “They have to act fast, because if they can’t find it anywhere else, they’re stuck.”

She added that resale prices could increase by more than 20% this time of year for classics like Louis Vuitton’s Speedy, a satchel available in various sizes.

The supply chain warnings everyone has heard – along with already empty shelves in some stores – could also add to the resale appeal this year. As NPD’s Mr. Cohen said, “You might not have been to a resale site or a thrift store or some sort of second-hand shop, but if you really want a bag of your choice, you may need to find it as a resource. “


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Bottega Veneta propels Matthieu Blazy to the forefront as creative director | Fashion

Matthieu Blazy is the latest behind-the-scenes fashion designer to land a prominent position in a luxury brand. After waiting backstage at Bottega Veneta since joining last year, he has been announced as the new Creative Director. The appointment, effective immediately, follows news last week that English designer Daniel Lee had resigned amid a hugely successful turnaround, with sales boosted and Bottega Veneta setting the fashion agenda like never before. .

Blazy’s name is not well known outside of the fashion industry, but he has a wealth of experience. A graduate of the La Cambre art and design school in Brussels and protégé of Raf Simons for whom he worked on Simons’ own label and at Calvin Klein, Blazy continued to work with Phoebe Philo at Celine where he rode with Lee.

Matthieu Blazy joined Bottega Veneta in 2020 and worked at Raf Simmons, Calvin Klein and Celine. Photography: Willy Vanderperre

He may not be used to the limelight, but Blazy has firsthand experience of the pressures of the top position. Under the veil of anonymity that it offered to its creators, he managed the ready-to-wear and artisanal line of Maison Margiela. Her identity was revealed by Suzy Menkes in 2014, with the reviewer saying “you can’t keep such talent a secret.”

Blazy’s partner, Pieter Mulier, Raf Simons’ longtime right-hand man and recently appointed Alaïa’s creative director, is following the same professional trajectory.

It was once a common practice for fashion bosses to seek out the most star-studded name they could find to fill a vacant Creative Director position (and then give carte blanche to reinvent the house), but companies are looking to more and more internally when it comes time to start a new chapter.

It’s an approach that has worked well for Kering, the French multinational that owns several luxury brands: Alessandro Michele of Gucci, arguably the world’s most influential designer, for example, started out designing handbags before moving on. work your way up.

However, given the similarities between Blazy and her predecessor’s career trajectory (think sleek, demanding minimalism, much like the aesthetic Lee pitched at Bottega), the new appointment is unlikely to signal a change. seismic for the brand. Granted, insiders aren’t predicting a redesign of Michele’s scale and proportions.

Instead, fans of Lee’s best-selling pocket bags and stomping tire boots can expect more of the same. Without a doubt, we have the feeling that Kering privileged a need for continuity and a desire to hold on to new customers acquired during his tenure. An approach that has worked well for Saint Laurent who, under the direction of Anthony Vaccarello, is following a path that is no different from that traced by Hedi Slimane during his redesign of the house.

Blazy’s appointment was well received by the industry who congratulated him with a stream of emojis, posted on his Instagram feed. New York Times fashion director Vanessa Friedman took to Twitter to express her approval. “It is time that he [Blazy] has a mark. It’s going to be interesting, ”she wrote.


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What time is kickoff, what TV channel is it playing on, and what is our prediction?

France are ending their 2021 Fall International schedule – also known as the Fall Nations Series – with a tantalizing clash against the All Blacks at the Stade de France. This is arguably the shock of the entire November test run.

When is it?

Saturday, November 20.

What time is the kick-off?

8 p.m. GMT.

Which TV channel is it on?

Amazon Prime Video will broadcast all French games.

What is the news of the team?

New Zealand scrum-half Aaron Smith has joined his country’s squad. Smith was expected to miss the All Blacks’ fall campaign following the birth of his son, but was called up after fellow No.9 Brad Weber received a blow to the head in their victory in Italy a week ago.

The 32-year-old Highlanders player has been selected 101 times by the national team and was part of the 2015 World Cup winning squad.

What are they saying?

New Zealand coach Ian Foster said his side were given a hard lesson on how difficult it is to play away against the best in the Northern Hemisphere after his side were beaten 29-20 by Ireland on Saturday .

As New Zealand demolished Wales 54-16 with a seven-try exposure two weeks ago, they faced an Irish assault in Dublin where they have been pushed harder and harder in recent years , including a loss the last time they played in 2018.

“We’ve been here (in Europe) for three years. For a number of players, they haven’t really been in a test here and it’s very, very different,” Foster said.

“It really is a pressure game that you have to face. You have to be on top of your discipline because if they feel a weakness and suddenly you start to give up a few consecutive penalties then you are fueling a game that the teams like to play. “

Foster said her side, which fell behind South Africa atop the world rankings after the loss, got too easily frustrated at times when they failed to get their hands on the ball. scored two decisive tries.

“I was delighted that under the weight of possession and territory, our defense was pretty strong and reached the half a bit rough but in a reasonably good position.”

“We weren’t very clinical in those first 10 minutes (of the second half) and we had to continue the game … They played very well at hiding the ball, and you have to give them credit . “

The All Blacks face France in Paris next weekend in their 15th and final Test of the year.

What are the chances?

To confirm

What is our prediction?

This fixture always captures the imagination simply because you have to expect the unexpected. France always goes there as an outsider and, like the real France, activates the style. But this time it’s different, because the Blues are not outsiders. At least not like they have been in the past. France are now arguably the best team in the Northern Hemisphere and their strength rivals that of New Zealand in depth. It could be a cracker!
Predicted score: France 35 New Zealand 31


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French fashion

On the Parisian stages, black directors forge a new course

PARIS – On a recent Sunday evening, Paris hosted a theater company that had come a long way. The Grand Théâtre Itinérant de Guyane came from French Guiana, nestled in the north of Brazil on the Atlantic coast of South America, with its latest production: “Bernarda Alba by Yana», Directed by the director of the company, Odile Pedro Leal.

Yana, here, means Guyana. In this judicious adaptation of Federico García Lorca’s film “The house of Bernarda Alba”, the sisters repressed at the heart of the Spanish play speak Creole and dream of men who cultivate sugar cane. And for the first time in over a decade I can remember going to the theater in Paris, the audience around me was predominantly black – a situation that shouldn’t be so rare in such a racially diverse city.

However, “Bernarda Alba From Yana” has only been performed once, and not in a large Parisian concert hall. Instead, it was presented at the Maurice Ravel Conservatory, a training institution, as part of The Kréyol Month (Mois Creole), festival dedicated to the promotion of artists from the many French overseas territories, which include formerly colonized islands and regions scattered around the world, from the Pacific to the Caribbean via the Indian Ocean.

Since these territories are home to many people of color, Le Mois Kréyol, created in 2017 by Caribbean choreographer Chantal Loïal, also celebrates French Blackness – and recalls what is lacking in the country’s dominant theater. Powerful Broadway actors signed a sweeping diversity pact in August; in France, directors from overseas and their peers of African origin remain excluded from management positions.

Of France’s five national theaters and 38 “national drama centers” in France, none has a black director – not even the national drama center on Reunion Island, a multicultural French island near Madagascar. While representation is slowly improving on stage, with more diverse drama school cohorts and regular instances of color blind casting, this has yet to translate into black creators being their own bosses.

The dancer and activist Joséphine Baker, who will be buried in the Pantheon, the tomb of the heroes of France, on November 30, is the subject of of them productions This winter; none of them are directed by a black artist. This season alone, the lives of Nelson Mandela and Angela Davis have arrived on stage the same way; and in a country that prides itself on being color blind, asking why black directors weren’t considered is taboo.

All of these shows can turn out to be good, but “Bernarda Alba From Yana” and a new production by Guinean-born playwright Hakim Bah, “Sweaty“(” À Bout de Sueurs “), indicate a richer path. It was evident that both were imbued with an intimate knowledge of the cultures at hand. The range of actors has also moved away from French standards to adopt local accents, which tend to be erased elsewhere in favor of a “neutral” performance, as well as a greater range of body language.

In the hands of Pedro Leal, this makes “Bernarda Alba” a warmer proposition than usual. Instead of the narrow heartbreak often associated with García Lorca’s play, in “Bernarda Alba From Yana”, women sing and dance through their pain. The mourning scene for Bernarda’s second husband at the start of the play is a living ritual, set to a Guyanese song: the five daughters of the matriarch gather around her, singing, banging and writhing on the floor. Later, two of the sisters, annoyed by the complete isolation Dominatrix Bernarda has imposed on them, sway and sway in a dance.

In this scene and elsewhere, Sarah Jean-Baptiste does a mercurial Adela, and there is a delicious sense of mischief in many of the actors’ performances. Micheline Dieye and Pedro Leal shine as voluntary servants of the family, just like Jean-Marc Lucret in a transvestite taking on the role of Martirio. Far from altering the dynamics of the piece, the contrast between the impetuous physicality of the characters and the atmosphere of repression is all the more acute.

Pedro Leal made subtle adjustments to the text to emphasize the Guyanese frame. (García Lorca’s frequent references to the heat offer built-in help.) Creole is so rarely heard on stage that it’s a treat to listen to the performers get lines in the language, with enough context for their meaning. be clear for non-Creoles. Since French has established itself as the official language in many overseas territories, there is something slightly meta about hearing Bernarda (Maïté Vauclin) repeatedly berating her daughters when she hears them slipping into Creole, with the furious demand: “Le français chez moi!”

The set was probably designed to make touring easier: curtains, a few fences, and a few seats, including a crescent-shaped Saramaka stool, have to do the job from start to finish. Nevertheless, “Bernarda Alba From Yana” is an important step for such a young company. While Pedro Leal has worked as a director in mainland France and Guyana since the 1990s, the Grand Théâtre Itinérant de Guyane was only founded in 2017, and it is now supported by public funding. It is part of French culture and deserves to be seen.

The same could be said of the work of Bah, 34, who lives alternately in France and Guinea, where he co-founded a theater festival, Univers des Mots (Word universe). Bah’s coins have earned him several distinctions; “Out of Sweat”, the latest to date, won the 2019 Laurent Terzieff-Pascale de Boysson prize, which is accompanied by a place in the programming of the Lucernaire theater.

The pandemic has delayed the premiere twice, but “Out of Sweat,” directed by Bah and Diane Chavelet, has now found its way to the smaller of the Lucernaire’s three stages. It is masterfully, economically constructed around a handful of scenes and characters, hailing from an unspecified African country. Fifi, who immigrated to France, returns home for a short-lived visit. There, she convinces Binta, an old friend struggling with an unfaithful husband, to seduce a Frenchman online, hoping to secure a better future.

Even though the end of the play was inspired by a lived tragedy, Bah’s approach is more poetic than realistic. What motivates “Out of Sweat” is the internal logic and musicality of each scene. When Fifi and Binta are reunited, they repeat themselves over and over again, with a mixture of increasing surprise, recognition and suspicion, truncating the sentences in such a way as to create an intriguing rhythm.

Diarietou Keita (Fifi) and Claudia Mongumu (Binta) play both comedy and pathos in their relationship with a living physique. As Binta’s unfaithful husband, Bachir, on the other hand, Vhan Olsen Dombo is withdrawn, then suddenly destructive. In a monologue set in an airport lounge, his performance turns into words and ends in piercing and piercing cries of frustration, his rhythm being closely mirrored by guitarist and electronic musician accompanying the action, Victor Pitoiset.

Yet even when their demeanor is extreme, all of the characters in “Out of Sweat” feel grounded in a nuanced understanding of the two worlds they inhabit. Like Pedro Leal and his company, Bah is obviously ready for bigger stages. When will the French theater give them and other black directors a permanent place at the table?

The Kréyol Month. Festival directed by Chantal Loïal. Other productions in France until November 28.
Out of Sweat. Directed by Hakim Bah and Diane Chavelet. Le Lucernaire, until December 5.


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French fashion

Kering appoints new designer for Bottega Veneta, Daniel Lee leaves

A model presents a creation from the Bottega Veneta Fall / Winter 2020 collection during Milan Fashion Week in Milan, Italy on February 22, 2020. REUTERS / Alessandro Garofalo / File Photo

PARIS, Nov. 10 (Reuters) – Kering (PRTP.PA) will announce a new creative director at the head of Bottega Veneta, the French luxury group announced on Wednesday, announcing the surprise departure of Daniel Lee just three and a half years after his mandate to ignite the popularity of the Italian label among the younger generations.

In a statement, Kering said the decision was mutual, but provided no further details on a timeline for the designer replacement.

The move comes as European luxury companies mark a strong recovery in sales after the coronavirus crisis, with the sector’s biggest players, including Kering, exceeding pre-pandemic levels.

“His singular vision (of Lee) made the house’s legacy relevant to today and put it back at the center of the fashion scene,” said Kering Chairman and CEO François Henri Pinault.

The 35-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate is credited with raising the profile of the brand known for its woven leather products, with popular accessories such as soft leather handbags and slip-on mules.

Marking the return of in-person and celebrity-filled fashion events, Bottega Veneta traveled to Detroit last month to show off Lee’s spring 2022 collection.

Reporting by Mimosa Spencer Editing by Mark Potter

Our standards: Thomson Reuters Trust Principles.


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