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French fashion

French fashion

Why these Gen Z fashion critics are tearing up the rulebook

And for Chabbi, it opens up an important dialogue, rather than a top-down relationship. “I have so many people who are like, I disagree with what you’re saying. It’s fine, but at least it’s a human with another human. It’s an open conversation, rather than a one-way conversation between a magazine and a person, for example.

Work with next-gen fashion commentators

Content-rich social media reviews can have benefits for brands. “While style can be easy to see and scroll through quickly, journalistic content requires more engagement from the audience, leading to longer video watch times,” says Rob Jewell, chief growth officer at Power Digital, a technology-driven growth marketing company. “Story-driven content ultimately helps generate more brand recall,” he adds.

TikTokers like Lee want to move beyond the way brands traditionally work with fashion commentators — the “here’s a product, go buy it” model. For this SS23 season, she is pivoting her content to a more editorial video series, rather than her more typical green screen videos, to differentiate herself from the growing social media review community and potentially attract new brand partners.

“The success of influencers like Lee is a clear indication that brands should provide influencers/creators with more than just a product –– taking them behind the scenes, how products are made, the story and how people experience their brand — to give them content to work with,” says Jewell.

Brands can also harness the power of fashion critics as consultants, using their deep insights to educate and inform strategy, Karassoulis says. Phin, for example, is now a consultant for companies such as fashion tech app Idoru.

Coverage by critics and commentators often refers to talents like Hildreth and Lee as “fashion underdogs”. However, the majority of reviewers have industry experience and ties. “I never want it to be insider versus outsider, because what does that mean?” said Lee. “I think using terms and viewing TikTokers as outsiders is elitist. The platforms are powerful and even though I don’t work at Hearst or Condé Nast, I know they are listening. (Business in vogue belongs to Condé Nast.)

Hildreth has now started working for Paper magazine on a freelance basis during NYFW as a writer, which she will do in addition to publishing her own commentary. For her, it has always been her ambition to use TikTok content as a stepping stone to traditional media. “I definitely don’t want to be controlled by sponsors and stuff like that and not be able to say what I want to say,” she says. “But, on the other hand, there’s a power that comes with having a titular magazine behind you.”

Chabbi, on the other hand, believes in the power of the individual. “There were fashion commentators before us. And there have been platforms that tell people about fashion, like Diet Prada. But I feel like today we’re held to a level of responsibility where people want to see your name, your face, and your thoughts. People want to be able to define who is behind those thoughts and put them in context. »

Comments, questions or comments? Email us at [email protected].

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Fashion East and the Swedish Fashion Council team up to showcase emerging talent in Paris

How to Build a Brand the Peter Do Way

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French fashion

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Showing off a much-wanted pair of white denim trousers with a paper high waist and full legs at his Great Jones store this morning, Phillip Lim said: ‘No one needs us to make another pair of jeans, c ‘is denim out of context.’ Out of context is kind of shorthand for this collection and for Lim’s design philosophy in general. He makes clothes for real life (hence why he has off the catwalk three years ago), but there’s usually an element of surprise that elevates his clothes above the everyday.He’s used the same white denim (and acid-wash shades of pineapple and periwinkle) for dresses with lace-trimmed straps. “At the end of the day, it’s a textile, we can design anything,” he added. same irreverent way for an off-the-shoulder top and another with a cutout on the chest. takes away.

The suit follows the body or takes on boyish and oversized proportions, while it uses pleated recycled polyester for two dress silhouettes, one with a subtle hourglass shape and the other with a more generous flared volume. He likes to give his customers options, but the offer is smaller than in previous seasons. It’s strategic. “Do less, mean more,” he said, also pointing to the tote bags he constructs with scraps of strips of different-colored leather or weaving from leftover ribbons.

Lim had other news today beyond this Spring 2023 collection. Those who follow his personal Instagram account learned that he was involved behind the scenes with the upcoming Disney+ show. chinese born american, a genre story based on a graphic novel of the same name that will explore the underdog’s teenage years; he costumed one of his superhero characters. “The genre, he says, is our thing.”

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French fashion

French chic: Rugby stars celebrate Munster captain’s wedding in style

It’s been quite a long wait, but finally Munster captain Peter O’Mahony and the love of his life Jessica Moloney were able to live out the wedding of their dreams.

The beloved couple who have been together for eight years were due to wed in the south of France in the summer of 2020, but Covid-19 had other plans.

The couple had to postpone their big day for two years but it was all a distant memory yesterday when they exchanged vows in the sunny town of Aix-en-Provence not far from Marseille in the south of the France.

Irish rugby star Peter and lawyer Jessica have already said ‘yes’ in a low-key ceremony in their garden in July 2020 attended by their two children, Indie and Theo.

In February 2021, the couple welcomed their third child, a baby boy named Ralph.

A host of rugby stars from Munster and Ireland joined Jessica and Peter in the South of France for their rustic-inspired wedding, including Tadhg Beirne and his new wife Harriet Fuller who only married Conor Murray last month and his fiancee Joanna Cooper and Joey Carbery and his fiancee Robyn Flanagan.

Jessica opted for a classic off-white dress with a mid-thigh side slit paired with a gorgeous traditional flowing cathedral veil.

She wore her hair in a relaxed curl. Peter, meanwhile, sported an indigo blue suit with an open-necked white shirt and loafers.

One of the special features of the wedding reception was a Land Rover which was fitted with a bottle holder/wine dispenser from which guests could pour a glass of AIX rosé made in Provence.

Peter popped the question during a Grand Slam winning trip to Dubai in March 2018.

While 32-year-old Peter devotes much of his free time to the garden, Jessica has a keen eye for interior design.

Anyone who follows the popular couple on Instagram knows of course that Peter also has a thing for vacuuming, much to the amusement of his wife!

ADVERTISEMENT – KEEP READING BELOW

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French fashion

Recreate French coffee brews at home and try to win a trip to Paris

From espressos to inspiring concoctions with L’OR Espresso Capsules

For java purists, black coffee is the only solution. It’s a way of observing all the layers of flavor in a cup of high quality coffee without the cream and sugar cover; others need the power of a shot of black coffee to get their day started quickly.

Yet among the “black teams” there are other subsets of varying styles and sizes. Coffee connoisseurs will quickly discern the difference between an espresso (basic black coffee), a ristretto (a more concentrated version of an espresso made with less water for a richer, more aromatic brew) and a lungo (Italian for “long” because more water is used than for an espresso for a larger cup of coffee).

It’s an art to enjoy the perfect cup of black coffee. Follow these guidelines to get the most out of your brew.

  • Use stoneware, earthenware or porcelain cups for better aromas
  • Before tasting, stir your coffee so that it is well distributed
  • Leave to cool for a moment to let all the shades shine
  • Try not to eat spicy or strong-tasting foods before having coffee (e.g. anise, mint, and licorice)
  • Swirl the coffee in your mouth for five to 10 seconds to engage all of your taste receptors
  • Keep tasting the coffee as it cools to discover aromas that may have initially been masked by the heat
  • Finish your coffee in 10-15 minutes

Add milk to the mix and other variations appear, like cappuccino, latte, macchiato and more. Mr. Brouwer notes: “If you find the right balance between coffee and milk, you can bring out caramelized notes in the smell.”

For something different, you can also try these two recipes from L’OR that are sure to elevate your daily brew.

Cococcino Coconut Coffee

Preparation time: 10 minutes

Take your favorite cup of espresso to the next level with this vegan and dairy-free alternative.

Ingredients

For a cup of coconut coffee

  • 1 cup of intense L’OR espresso, we recommend L’OR Espresso Supreme
  • 100ml coconut milk
  • A dash of caramel syrup

Preparation

  1. Froth the coconut milk.
  2. Pour a dash of caramel syrup into a coffee cup.
  3. Pour L’OR Espresso over the caramel syrup and stir the mixture.
  4. Pour the coconut milk froth over the coffee mixture to finish.
  5. For an iced coffee, let the coconut coffee cool down a bit and add ice cubes.

Cardamom Fig Fusion Frappuccino

Preparation time: 5 minutes

A fusion of flavors, this “frappuccino” can be drunk simultaneously in two cups for maximum pleasure. Add flavors of chocolate, caramel or vanilla for more indulgence.

Ingredients

  • 100ml condensed milk
  • 50ml milk
  • 30ml coconut cream
  • ¾ cup crushed ice
  • 1 stroke L’OR Sontuso
  • 1 green cardamom pod
  • 1 fig
  • 1 bar of dark chocolate

Preparation

  1. Shave the dark chocolate with a grater or a knife.
  2. Chop the fig as finely as possible. Set aside a slightly larger slice of fig for garnish.
  3. Add the finely chopped fig, condensed milk, milk and crushed ice to your blender. Blend until thick and smooth.
  4. Pour the blended mixture into a wine glass.
  5. Gently place the dark chocolate shavings and the remaining fig slice on the cold drink.
  6. Pour the hot espresso into a coffee cup.
  7. Take a green cardamom pod, crack it gently with your fingers and place it over the hot espresso to let the flavors meld.
  8. Serve and enjoy together (hot and cold).

Each cup of L’OR coffee is a unique experience: unapologetic pure pleasure in a cup. Follow your senses and let the intensity of the aroma overwhelm you.

For more information, visit www.lorespresso.fr or the Facebook page of LOREspressoSG

GOLD Espresso capsules, coffee beans and L’OR Essenso instant pre-mixed coffee are available at all major supermarkets and online at the official JDE World of Coffee webshop at Shopee Singapore.

CAPSULES COMPATIBLE WITH ORIGINAL NESPRESSO®* COFFEE MACHINES. *Registered trademark of a third party unrelated to JACOBS DOUWE EGBERTS.

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French fashion

Coco Gauff, Frances Tiafoe, Carlos Alcaraz

NEW YORK — The US Open courts were remarkably quiet Saturday morning. It was the first day of the post-Serena Williams era, and it felt like the tune had been pulled from the site.

Ahead of Williams’ third-round match against Ajla Tomljanovic, there had been a palpable buzz everywhere – in the nosebleed seats at Arthur Ashe Stadium, in the food court queues, even while waiting in the circulation. Thousands of people flocked to catch a glimpse of the 23-time major champion during her training sessions, and her matches became the hottest ticket in town.

But then she lost and, just like that, her legendary career was over. Even Rafael Nadal’s (albeit lopsided) Saturday night game against Richard Gasquet at Ashe was flat.

But something happened on Sunday. Or rather somebody.

Playing in the second game of the afternoon on Ashe, 18-year-old Coco Gauff faced an uphill battle against Zhang Shuai, and with each fiercely contested rally and athletic feat, the crowd grew bigger and bigger. noisier. There were chants of “Let’s go, Co-co” and frequent reminders from the chair umpire for silence.

“That’s crazy. I mean, Ashe Stadium chanting my name?” Gauff said during his on-court interview after the match. “I was trying not to smile on the bench during the change. I was trying to stay in the moment.”

Gauff eventually won the match 7-5, 7-5, becoming the youngest American to advance to the quarter-finals of the event since 2009, and the first teenager since Victoria Azarenka, also in 2009, to reach the round. two major tournaments in the same season. (Gauff qualified for the French Open final earlier this year.)

With three matches preventing her from winning her first Grand Slam title – starting with a very tricky quarter-final clash against the scorching Caroline Garcia on Tuesday night – it’s clear she’s one of the next big superstars in the game. Game.

And she is not the only rising star to revitalize the crowds this fortnight.

On Monday afternoon, Frances Tiafoe pulled off one of the biggest upsets of the tournament with a 6-4, 4-6, 6-4, 6-3 victory over Nadal, the 22-time major champion, to qualify for the second. great quarter-finals of his career.

The 24-year-old American has long charmed crowds with his fearless play, powerful striking and entertaining style. In the fourth-round clash, he found a way to put it all together at his Slam home. While Nadal remains one of the most popular players on the tour, Tiafoe converted the crowd as the match progressed, and in the end everyone was on their feet as Tiafoe claimed the biggest win of all. his career.

Around the same time, on the Louis Armstrong court, No. 1-ranked, two-time French Open champion Iga Swiatek advanced to the quarter-finals on Monday with a three-set victory over Jule Niemeier. After falling in the first set, the 21-year-old has won 12 of the last 16 games in the game.

Later that night, 21-year-old Jannik Sinner became the youngest since Novak Djokovic in 2008 to reach the quarter-finals of all four major tournaments when he held off Ilya Ivashka in five sets.

In the early hours of Tuesday morning, 19-year-old Spaniard Carlos Alcaraz beat 2014 US Open champion Marin Cilic 6-4, 3-6, 6-4, 4-6, 6-3 to win. qualify for the quarters, again. , At New York. He had a surprise run at the same lap in 2021 and has been a force on tour – and a fan favorite – ever since. A group of loyal supporters remained in the stands, chanting his name and waving Spanish flags, until the very end of his fourth-round match, well after 2 a.m. ET.

And of course there’s Nick Kyrgios, the 27-year-old Australian with seemingly limitless skills and electrifying showmanship. After years of failing to live up to expectations and attracting as much attention for his unpredictable antics as for his talent, he reached his first major final at Wimbledon in July.

He is now in his first US Open quarter-finals after a blowout win over Daniil Medvedev on Sunday. After Nadal’s loss, Kyrgios is the betting favorite to win the title. While everything seems to be falling into place for him on the pitch, his personal life is not without controversy. He was charged with domestic assault by a former partner and has a hearing related to the allegation in October.

It seems tennis has finally reached a moment of changing the guard. It was anticipated for years, as the biggest names were getting older, but the time has apparently come.

In addition to Williams’ retirement, Roger Federer, 41, has been sidelined for more than a year as he recovers from right knee surgery, Djokovic, 35, plays a limited schedule due to her unvaccinated status and 42-year-old Venus Williams played sparingly. . While Nadal, 36, has won two major titles this year, he has dealt with a host of injuries over the past 13 months and received his first Grand Slam outing since 2017 on Monday.

It is only the second Major since the start of the 2005 season to not have Nadal, Djokovic or Nadal in the quarter-finals. There hasn’t been a US Open quarter-final without the “Big Three” or Williams since 2003. No one in either draw has ever won the US Open before, and Swiatek is the only remaining Grand Slam champion.

“I think Nick is playing good tennis, it’s great for tennis,” Tiafoe said, while wearing a “GOAT” sweatshirt with images of Williams, after her victory on Monday. “You see him filling stadiums when he plays singles, doubles, whatever. Alcaraz is a big personality. Sinner. Myself. People support me…

“It’s cool to see a new era.”

There have been several players who looked like they could break through in recent years. Naomi Osaka looked like a safe bet with her four major titles, but she’s struggled on and off the pitch over the past 14 months. She lost in the first round in New York last week.

Medvedev beat Djokovic to win the US Open in 2021 and regained the No.1 ranking earlier this year, but he failed to defend his title this week.

A number of women have won Grand Slam titles in recent years since Williams temporarily left the tour on maternity leave in 2021, but almost all have not been able to achieve consistent success after their decisive moment.

And winning isn’t the only thing that makes a superstar. These young players have the “it” factor of charisma and authenticity, and it’s no surprise to see them filling stadiums and gaining new fans with each victory.

Gauff’s popularity continues to transcend tennis. She became a voice for societal issues, giving an impassioned speech at a Black Lives Matter rally in 2020 and writing “End gun violence” on camera at Roland Garros shortly after the school shooting in Uvalde, Australia. Texas.

Prior to this year, Gauff had never won a match against Ashe. In 2022, she has played every tournament match on court. His first three were scheduled just before Williams.

This placement under the marquee did not escape him.

“My first round, I was shocked to be put on Ashe,” Gauff said Sunday. “Then it happened again in the second round. At that point I thought maybe it would continue, especially when Serena was playing.

“It has to be like perfect programming for the viewers. You have me playing first, ending with the GOAT. It’s crazy.”

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French fashion

UFC Fight Night results, highlights: Ciryl Gane knocks out Tai Tuivasa in wild brawl from Paris

ciryl-gane-tuivasa-punch.png
Getty Images

Ciryl Gane and Tai Tuivasa closed out the UFC Paris debut in spectacular fashion. Gane punished and eventually put away Tuivasa in an exciting Fight Night headliner full of momentum swings.

After a slow start to the first round, the second and third rounds brought action and then some. “Bam Bam” threw a wild right hand that dropped Gane and seemed, at least for a moment, to have knocked the hometown hero out. Gane stood up, dodging incoming blows and conjuring a cruel kick that sent Tuivasa retreating. Gane came forward for the finish but was deterred by a left hook that tripped him. The round ended with Gane landing a better attack, folding Tuivasa with body kicks and completing it with a heavy uppercut.

Gane got into the body attacks in the third round. The elusive kickboxer repeatedly hurt his foe with body shots to disguise a massive headbutt that nearly extinguished Tuivasa. The Aussie fighter tucked his otherworldly chin in and stepped back to keep Gane at bay. In the final minute of the round, Gane threw several front kicks into the midsection that noticeably hurt Tuivasa. Gane pivoted with the back foot to get an angle on an advancing Tuivasa and unleashed a hellish counter-right uppercut. The punch snapped Tuivasa’s chin back at an awkward angle and gave Gane a position outside of Tuivasa’s vision from which to reign the punches. Gane knocked Tuivasa down and followed with two hammer fists that knocked his opponent out of consciousness.

“Nobody on this planet expected that from the fans of France. It makes me so happy!” Gane said in the post-fight interview. “You may have London, England, but you also have Paris.

“It doesn’t matter who, Dana [White]I want to go back to [UFC heavyweight] belt. Please.”

Gane bounced back from his only career loss to UFC heavyweight champion Francis Ngannou at UFC 270 and improved to 11-1 since making his professional mixed martial arts debut in 2018. Gane remains the ranked fighter No. 1 in the division. Tuivasa fell to 14-4 overall and ended a stellar five-fight winning streak, the best of his UFC tenure.

Can’t get enough of boxing and MMA? Get the latest in the world of combat sports from two of the best in the business. Subscribe to Morning Kombat with Luke Thomas and Brian Campbell for the best analysis and in-depth news, including instant analysis of UFC Fight Night in Paris, France, below.

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French fashion

21 Best Labor Day Sales (2022) for Your Kitchen, Camping, Dining, and Beyond

The end of summer makes us nostalgic. Say goodbye to peach and tomato salads. Until next year, dine outdoors without a jacket. But a little comfort: the best Labor Day sales are here. There’s no better time to finally move this air fryer from your virtual cart to your real kitchen. From the weekend to Tuesday, you can score big on everything from Le Creuset Dutch Ovens (welcome, braising season) to outdoor fireplaces (because these marshmallows won’t toast). Whether you want to save or splurge, we’ve found the best Labor Day 2022 sales to ease your late summer sadness.

Warm spices reappear in everything pumpkin spice, including Le Creuset’s new colorway: nutmeg. Save $130 on exclusive Dutch ovens through Labor Day Monday.

Le Creuset 5.25 Quart Round Casserole

Associate Food Editor Rachel Gurjar loves her Miyabi chef’s knives, but they don’t come cheap. You’ll find this one on sale for almost $100 off.

8″ Miyabi Artisan chef’s knife

Have you ever air-fried a whole chicken? Do you want? Philips makes one of the best basket-style air fryers on the market.

Philips Premium XXL Digital Fryer


Enjoy 20% off our favorite thermometers all weekend, including the budget-friendly ThermoPop. If you cook meat, an instant read thermometer will be a life changer.

Thanksgiving will be here before you know it, so if you don’t have an oven thermometer yet, now is the time to get one. Our favorite is the DOT thermometer from ThermoWorks, which comes with a probe that you can insert into your bird before putting it in the oven.

ThermoWorks DOT Thermometer


During Fly By Jing’s end-of-season sale, all kinds of hot condiments are up to 30% off, including one of BA’s favorite chili chips.

Culinary director Chris Morocco can’t get enough of the savory, spicy and sweet Zhong sauce. Put a dollop on everything from eggs to nachos.


French cookware brand Staub makes some of the best Dutch ovens. This 3.75-quart French oven is more gently curved than Staub’s classic casserole dish, but you can expect the same build quality and heat retention.

Staub 3.75 Quart French Oven

The Zwilling Madura, our favorite egg pan, features an ergonomic handle and non-stick coating that will make tidy omelets every time.

Zwilling Madura Non-Stick Pans


Save 20% on professional-grade pans, both on Hestan’s site and at retailers like Amazon and Nordstrom.

Ask any electrician or chef and they’ll tell you that copper is an excellent conductor. These induction compatible pans have a copper core wrapped in stainless steel.

Copper Induction Stoves

Chris Morocco seeks his Nanobond pan more than any other in his arsenal. Need we say more?

Nanobond Titanium Pans


Use code LABORDAY15 for 15% off linens, home decor and towels, like this velor and terry beach towel. Designed by Kath Nash, it’s an ode to New York summer treats like soft serve ice cream and the beloved dollar slice.

It’s time to swap linen for brushed cotton flannel.


Contributor Amanda Shapiro stocked up on her new kitchen all at once with this 18-spice packet. Like everything else on Spicewalla’s site, it’s 20% off during their Labor Day sale.

Collection of 18 kitchen essentials


Goodbye summer, hello 25% off Always Pan and this walnut cutting board. Editor Ali Francis swears by his slice of juice as he breaks down sticky, juicy melons and peaches.

These sturdy, generously sized drinking glasses come in a range of vibrant retro hues. In my house, they do double duty for water and dessert.


Save 33% on select All-Clads this Labor Day weekend.

All-Clad Stainless Steel Three-Layer Casserole with Lid


One of our favorite online resources for Asian pantry items and products is offering 20% ​​off all fruits and vegetables, including this show-stopping Pink Glow Pineapple.


We have some seriously amazing pie recipes to come in the coming months. Get ready with this pie plate from Great Jones.

Wouldn’t these decoupage taper candles be a treat paired with…

Misette Cutting Candles

…this candlestick from Maison Balzac?

Balzac House Candlestick

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French fashion

Beauty Bar: Mint Verbena Exfoliating Shower Gel L’Occitane

Content of the article

What it is: A new shower gel from the French brand L’Occitane that contains “purifying and revitalizing” mint essential oils in addition to an organic verbena extract from Provence, France.

Content of the article

Part of a limited-edition line of product additions to the brand’s best-selling Verbena line, the exfoliating shower gel is touted as being free of parabens, phenoxyethanol and phthalates. The seasonal launch of Verbena Mint also included a refreshing body gel and an eau de toilette.

Content of the article

What we say: Packaged in an easy-to-use squeeze bottle, our tester found this freshly scented shower gel left her skin feeling “clean, refreshed and smooth.” The refreshing, minty scent lingers pleasantly on the skin.

Boasting small exfoliating particles, our tester found the product to gently peel away from summer-dried skin, leaving the surface noticeably softer, without feeling overly scrubbed.

Where to get it: L’Occitane stores, loccitane.com

What it will cost you: $26.

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French fashion

The “most beautiful” girl Thylane Blondeau spotted in a bikini on a yacht in France

The “most beautiful girl” in the world was spotted enjoying a day on a yacht with her boyfriend Ben Attal.

Thylane Blondeau is currently enjoying the warm weather in St Tropez where temperatures are still in the low 20s (C) despite the fact that summer is almost over in the northern hemisphere.

The French model, 20, hit the water in a black Hunza G bikini that retails for $285.

It features a scoop neckline and thick straps for added support with high waisted bottoms.

Her long hair was tied in a messy bun and she accessorized with a simple necklace.

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In one photo, Thylane – who rose to fame aged just six when photos of her went viral thanks to her bright blue eye – can be seen basking in the sun with a group of friends on the deck of the yacht.

She also enjoys a tender kiss with her 25-year-old other half.

Thylane appears to be taking a break from her successful modeling career which has really taken off in recent months.

On social media, she shared a series of casual snaps, most recently posting a photo of herself in a black cutout dress.

In another photo, she rocks a pink bikini and statement sunglasses while relaxing on an outdoor couch.

The daughter of French footballer Patrick Blondeau and TV presenter Veronika Loubry began her modeling career at the age of four when she took part in a fashion show for Jean Paul Gaultier.

At the age of six, she was named “the most beautiful girl in the world” by TC Candler’s 100 Most Beautiful Faces of the Year in 2007.

But her successful modeling career has not been without controversy. A French Vogue shoot featuring a 10-year-old Thylane wearing heavy makeup and adult clothes drew criticism at the time for being too adult.

In 2019, she once again topped TC Candler’s annual 100 Most Beautiful Faces of the Year list, writing on Instagram that she was so grateful to be number one again.

“Can’t believe it myself… thank you so much @tccandler and everyone who voted,” Thylane wrote. “I am grateful to you all.”

Today, Thylane is represented by top modeling agency IMG alongside Kaia Gerber and Gigi Hadid.

She also has her own fashion label, No Smile Clothing, which sells bathrobes and tracksuit sets.

Earlier this month she was spotted swimming in the ocean with her boyfriend Ben who she has been dating since 2020.

Thylane dazzled in a green two-piece, which she accessorized with a pair of sunglasses.

The emerald green swimsuit featured a crop-top style top paired with a Brazilian-style bottom.

She also wore a thick necklace, two bracelets, and an assortment of earrings and rings.

However, she recently announced that she had undergone surgery following a secret health battle, telling fans on Instagram that she had a large ovarian cyst removed.

“This year, I saw three different gynecologists, I saw more than four radiology centers in Paris and they all said the same thing: ‘Don’t worry, you have nothing, it’s all in your head’ “, she writes.

However, the pain continued and she was eventually sent for an MRI. He was shown to have a cyst measuring over 5cm touching his ovary – and doctors took her back to the operating room for another emergency operation.

“Today I finally feel better, I finally feel free,” she added.

“I really thought I was crazy complaining about my stomach for so long. Glad I never gave up.

She advised her followers that it’s important to listen to your body.

“From this experience I learned that when your body is hurting you, don’t let it slip and take care of it, you have to go to different doctors until some of them find the problem and cure it. Any pain, even the smallest, can hide something much more important.

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French fashion

Tan France on exploring style and identity with diamond jewelry for Vogue India’s Diamond Festival

There is an undeniable link between the tangible and the intangible when it comes to dressing up (or dressing up). It’s no secret that the clothes we wear also reflect our personality, mood and character. Three exceptional designers who use style and diamond jewelry as a form of expression, have come together to voguefrom the style guide panel for the Diamond Festival, and told us what it’s like to express yourself through jewelry and style.

Tan France, a global fashion guru and style icon inspiring people to be unabashedly themselves, highlighted how he likes to use accessories as a tool to embrace his striking personality. He explained why it’s not necessarily necessary to “fit in” in today’s world of TikTok and Instagram. Whether it’s delving into the blurry boundaries between masculine and feminine or finding inspiration at your fingertips, France believes that discovering your style identity in the post-Zoom world is just a simple scroll.

Revolutionary jewelry designer Ana Khouri, a woman whose bold yet minimalist designs are worn by twins Olsen and Nicole Kidman, thought about jewelry as an extension of wearable art. Hanut Singh, a man known for creating worlds within worlds by bridging modern and ancient to evoke timelessness with jewelry, even made Madonna a fan. He sees his creations as a well-organized cocktail. “A mix of ideas intertwined with architectural inspiration, shaken with abstract colors and stirred with Art Nouveau and Deco aids,” explains the designer. When it comes to diamonds, pearls or stones, the panel agrees that it is not just an accessory in the female wardrobe, but rather an asset and an asset. a reflection of your identity.

“I’m guilty of wearing things that aren’t the most comfortable. It’s not about comfort in that sense, it’s about comfort in wearing something that feels most authentic to you. So I think the word for me is more authenticity than comfort. And I think that’s where we see the younger generation. Even the way they use accessories, diamonds, jewelry, they become much more playful,” adds Tan France.

Contents

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Read also :

Vogue India and Natural Diamond Council are back with the second edition of the Diamond Festival

Natural Diamond Jewelery You Should Invest In Now And Why

Here’s why natural diamonds will never lose their sparkle

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French fashion

In the new Roche Bobois showroom in Back Bay

New

A former bank in Back Bay has been transformed into a welcoming new Roche Bobois showroom.


Photo by Greg Premru

Inspired by the designs of the Bauhaus and other modernists, the French furniture line Roche Bobois creates refined and detailed pieces; furnishings are sleek and contemporary in style, but with a casual nature, making them coveted living room pieces. The luxury maker was launched in the early 1960s, and Boston’s first outpost was established in 1974.

Having lived in a few different places in town over the years, Roche Bobois was in the leather district for over a decade. “It was a good region for us at one time,” says Pierre Berardo, general manager Northeast of Roche Bobois. But foot traffic had declined in recent years, and most of the brand’s competitors were in the Back Bay.

In the spring of 2021, Roche Bobois had also obtained space in the district. Once the lease was signed for 5,400 square feet of the Park Square Building on Arlington Street, work to reconfigure it to suit Roche Bobois began in earnest. Architect Leslie Saul designed the construction of the space – a former bank. “The safes were located in the basement, and there was an elevator and a nice staircase that took you to that level,” Saul explains. To meet all the space needs of the showroom, the staircase has been removed.

Courtesy picture

Courtesy picture

A hodgepodge of five different types of flooring was removed and replaced with glossy oak which was also used as the vertical flooring. There is a “green” plant wall and large windows on three sides of the building provide abundant natural light.

Saul has worked on builds for five Roche Bobois sites in Boston and Natick, which allowed for a fairly seamless design phase. “The blueprints for the store design concept are created at Roche Bobois headquarters in Paris,” says Saul, noting that his team is tasked with interpreting them in a way that can be built here. Although there were some supply chain issues, the space opened within two months of its target date in March 2022.

The intent of the showroom atmosphere, Berardo says, is to relieve the stress of going to a high-end retailer. “We installed a huge fireplace to give a feeling of warmth and to make people feel at home.”

Courtesy picture

Courtesy picture


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Team HRC’s Tim Gajser wins in exquisite style…

Although Team HRC’s Tim Gajser was crowned the 2022 MXGP World Champion last weekend in Finland, the riders still like to win, so for the team and for Gajser, it was business as usual.

In the first race of the MXGP, “Tiga” got off to a good start and finished the first lap in third place. The fast-paced and difficult French circuit proved to be a big challenge for overtaking this weekend and every position gained was a battle of attrition. Tim slipped to second on lap four and continued to fight for the win. Despite charging on the final lap, he crossed the line less than a second from victory, but proved his pedigree with a champion-class performance.

Australian Mitch Evans also got off to a great start in moto one, starting the first lap in fourth place and looking fast, strong and confident. He defended his position well throughout the race under pressure from the other riders. On lap 14, an unfortunate knockdown dropped Evans down to seventh where he again came under pressure from world-class MXGP competitors, but held onto his position until the end.

Rubén Fernández (Team Honda 114 Motorsport) continued his progress towards fitness and full racing speed today. After a tough first race, the Spaniard crossed the finish line in 12th place, still far from his potential.

In the MX2 class, Stephen Rubini of Shiptocycle Honda SR Motoblouz had another tough GP this weekend. Although his lap time was fast, the Frenchman failed to find his form in the qualifying race, giving him a poor starting choice for Sunday’s motos. Despite this, Rubini went from 10th place on the lap to finish the race in eighth place with hopes of an improvement at his home GP in race two.

As the gate lowered for the second race of the MXGP, Gajser and Evans didn’t quite get around the first corner of the lead group and gave themselves an unenviable task to move forward. Gajser drew first blood and slammed his CRF450R into fourth on lap two, but the excitement stayed until the end. First, the Slovenian took third place and put up effective flow and momentum that would prove both devastating and decisive for the race and the overall – and he really kept his best until the end. end. Two magnificent last-lap passes took him from third to first place. Not only did he win the race, but the five-time world champion took the overall victory to the delight of the HRC team and its growing fans.

Evans had another frustrating moto the second time around today. He struggled to find his rhythm and eventually came home in 11th, earning him ninth place overall. Meanwhile, Rubén Fernández did a bit better in race two today, first with a slightly better start that gave him good pace to take him back to ninth for 11th overall.

Stephen Rubini’s health issues continued into the second round of MX2 and although he started the race his stomach pains and discomfort were too bad to continue. Although he did not finish the race, the low number of drivers allowed him to score two points from the second heat and finish the day in 13th place overall. Stephen will see a doctor this week to try to identify the cause of the pain.

The final round of this year’s season heads to the Afyonkarahisar circuit for the BitCi MXGP of Turkey in two weeks.

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French fashion

The French right under fire from the demands of poor parents who waste money on school equipment | France

Right-wing opposition MPs in France have been accused of stigmatizing poorer people by suggesting that low-income families are fraudulently using a school supply allowance.

Government spokesman Olivier Véran said allegations that some families were spending money on TV and alcohol were “discrimination” and “an old chestnut”. He rejected suggestions that parents should receive basic supplies or vouchers for specific stores to reduce the risk of fraud.

“The back-to-school allowance is useful and fair. It is a precious aid for 3 million families to finance children’s supplies and cover back-to-school expenses. Stop stigmatizing them,” Veran tweeted.

Fourteen deputies from the opposition party Les Républicains tabled a bill at the beginning of the month aimed at “regulating the use of the school supply allowance and combating fraud”.

The signatories pointed to “the lack of control over what the money is spent on”, saying that this allowed beneficiaries “to use this benefit for purposes other than the educational needs of their children”.

Instead, they want families to receive a set of basic school supplies for each child, as well as “vouchers allowing parents to buy clothes or materials needed for their schooling”. Most French schools do not insist on uniforms.

Laurence Rossignol, the former family minister, now vice-president of the Socialist Party (PS) in the upper house of the Senate, said allegations of fraud by parents were an “old annual chestnut”.

“Every year parents are accused of buying flat screen televisions, new wheels for their cars, smartphones…it’s the same old story of poor people drinking their benefit money,” said Nightingale.

Another critic of the proposals, Sandrine Rousseau, MP for the Europe, Ecology, The Greens (EELV) party, added: “Behind this proposal are doubts about the ability of the poorest parents to take care of their children. And it’s serious. »

The annual list of school supplies (school supplies) is an end-of-summer puzzle for parents of school-aged children. Students are expected to arrive for the first day of term in September with the exact number, size and color of notebooks, pens, pencils and folders specified by the various teachers. At this time of year, supermarkets and stationers are full of frustrated parents looking for single/double A4 paper packs with small/large perforated/unperforated squares.

For low-income families, the cost is mitigated by allowance, paid in August, to parents with at least one school-age child. This year’s allowance has been increased by 4% to take account of inflation and amounts to €392.04 (£332) for each child under 10, €413.69 for each child aged 11 to 14 years old and €428.02 for each child from 15 to 18 years old. It is paid to households whose income is less than €25,730 with one child, €31,225 with two children, €37,080 with three and €42,935 with four or more children.

In addition to the school allowance, the French government approved an additional ‘exceptional’ payment of €100 (£85) plus €50 (£42) for each child to families on minimum income in September to help with the rising cost of life.

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Raider targets hot tubs in France to protest water use | France

They call it the “Jacuzzi Driller”: a hooded youth from northeast France who raids properties with outdoor swimming pools to protest the use of water.

The pools of eight chalets in the town of Gérardmer in the Vosges were vandalized by the intruder, who drilled a 2cm hole in each one. The saboteur left a note saying, “Water is for drinking!” You kill the Vosges. Seriously, the planet is sick. Wake up!”

Victims estimate the total cost of the damage at around €80,000 (£67,000).

One owner, Olivier Robert, told French television its security cameras had picked up the culprit at the property, which was empty at the time.

“An individual, young and acting alone, entered my property and others in my neighborhood. They stayed about an hour and a half in commando mode with a bandana over their eyes and latex gloves. robert said.

“I usually visit the place about once a week and don’t rent it out much. I find it a little scary that someone would come into your house at night for an act of sabotage and leave a Robin Hood message in the name of some pseudo ecological ideal.

“What is happening now is the result of several factors, but we are not responsible for the water shortage. Drought is the main cause, as well as the influx of tourists. They are attacking the property now; will they attack people next? »

Alain Richard, whose bathtub was also damaged, said“They drained a swimming pool that had chlorinated water in the ground, which is ridiculous. I think there’s an element of jealousy there.

Gérardmer, overlooking a large lake near the Franco-German border, is best known as an alpine ski resort. The city has reported an influx of summer tourists in recent years, boosting the population from 8,000 to 30,000 in July and August.

Stessy Speissman, the mayor of Gerardmer, said some residents were unhappy with competing demands for increasingly scarce water supplies. “Certainly local people feel that if there is a shortage of this resource, local people should take priority,” Speissmann said.

The authorities of Gérardmer resorted to pumping water from the lake to ensure the supply of local homes with tap water, but this was declared unfit for consumption.

There have been tensions over water use across France, with many departments facing restrictions due to a historically hot and dry summer.

climate activists filled the holes of the golf courses near Toulouse to protest against the exemption of golf greens from water bans during the severe drought. Activists have described golf as “the leisure industry of the most privileged”.

In a petition, campaigners said the exemption showed that “economic madness takes precedence over ecological reason”.

In July, 400 cubic meters of water reserved to help fight fires in the Ardèche disappeared and damage to water tanks on farms was reported.

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How Napoleon’s death in exile became a controversial mystery

When I noticed that August 15 was Napoleon’s 253rd birthday, I remembered a dinner I had several years ago with an elderly surgeon. He had amassed a remarkable collection of historical medical artifacts, and after we had our entries, he confessed that his most treasured memory was a piece cut from the body of Napoleon Bonaparte – good manners prevent me from specifying who Part of the body. Suffice to say that I was sick enough not to want dessert.

The surgeon whispered his intention to analyze the anatomical specimen in an attempt to understand the cause of Napoleon’s death in 1821, which has long been one of the most controversial mysteries in French historical circles.

I thought my Napoleonic encounters were over until I found myself in Paris recently. In my spare time, I made a visit to Napoleon’s Tomb, the Dôme des Invalides and the shadow of the Eiffel Tower. Looking at the polished red quartzite sarcophagus containing the remains of the old man, the question began to plague me: what did he die of, after so many years in exile?

Napoleon was only 51 when he died on the island of Saint Helena, where he was out of power and exiled from his beloved France. On May 5, 1821, he had been increasingly ill for several months, suffering from recurrent abdominal pain, progressive weakness, and persistent constipation. Her final weeks were marked by vomiting, incessant hiccups, and blood clots, or thrombophlebitis, in various parts of her body.

The doctors who carried out Napoleon’s autopsy on May 6, 1821 concluded that his death was due to stomach cancer, exacerbated by bleeding from gastric ulcers, after a huge dose of calomel – a compound containing mercury that was used as a medicine – was administered to him the day before his death. Since then, armchair pathologists have wondered if this is indeed the case. Many physicians have come up with a multitude of diagnoses that have literally filled books and journals over the past century.

Napoleon I, Emperor of France, in exile. Image via Ann Ronan Pictures/Print Collector/Getty Images

More infamously, in 1961, a Swedish dentist named Sten Forshufvud, working with Drs. Hamilton Smith of Glasgow and Anders Wassen of Sweden, made international headlines with an article they published in Nature magazine. Applying the latest technology to analyze a lock of the emperor’s hair, “probably taken immediately after his death”, they announced that Napoleon may have died of arsenic poisoning.

Forshufvud and colleagues initially reported that it was impossible to tell from sample results alone “whether the arsenic was evenly distributed (as expected in continuous exposure) or localized to one point (as it would be). in one large exhibition)”. A second article from the same team analyzed a different hair sample supposedly taken from Napoleon’s head. Again they found high levels of arsenic and suggested that he had been intermittently exposed to the poison for, possibly, four months prior to his death and that the arsenic “could not have been added by afterwards, by spraying, dusting or dipping, as suggested by some reviewers.” Subsequent hair samples showed similar results, although the provenance of all of these samples isn’t exactly definitive and could easily be from other heads.

Decades later, chemists J. Thomas Hindmarch and John Savory wrote a rebuttal of claims of arsenic poisoning. It is important to note, they reminded their readers, that in the bad old days of medicine – when bleeding and cupping were still major treatment modalities – arsenic was a common, albeit ill-advised, drug. often packaged as a known tonic. as Fowler’s solution. It was also widely used in rodenticides, insecticides, clothing dyes, and “even candy wrappers.” Additionally, French aristocrats, including Napoleon, wore arsenic-based face and hair powder. There may also have been arsenic in the water supply, the wallpaper covering Napoleon’s bedroom, in the coal smoke heating his rooms, and post-mortem exposure due to the arsenic content of the ground covering his coffin, while he was still buried in Saint Helena. before being brought back to Paris. And to make matters more confusing, there was also the 19th century practice of preserving strands of hair in arsenical solutions and hair powders.

Nonetheless, journalists and history buffs have embraced various conspiracy theories involving arsenic poisoning. Some claim that the alleged murderer (perhaps by accident) was Charles Tristan, Marquis de Montholon, who was Napoleon’s favored companion when they were both on the island of Saint Helena. A motive was even worked out in that Napoleon left Montholon 2 million francs in his will.

It’s a big story, but probably just that – a story – and at the expense of the historical reputation of the Marquess. Alas, as Napoleon supposedly once said, the story is a fable that people have agreed upon. (This line, by the way, has been attributed in different forms to a number of prominent French figures.) Given the ubiquity of arsenic at this time, Napoleon’s family medical history of carcinomas stomach cancer and the advanced state of his stomach cancer and hemorrhagic stress. ulcers, exacerbated by all the prescriptions of his doctors, the first autopsy results still seem the most probable.

Napoleon was the author of several revolutionary achievements and a godlike reputation in power, but history also recognizes that he was a tyrannical despot and a warmonger. In the end, debating the cause of his death may be the ultimate fool’s errand. His giant and impressive tomb reminds us too well that it is high time to leave the man alone.

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It’s not that people are more sensitive these days. Some things aren’t funny anymore | Marthe Gill

JThe idea that young people are exceptionally pampered and go to great lengths to protect themselves from the realities of life – to the detriment of the rest of us – has long been ingrained in the minds of the nation, where in some cases , it seems to have hardened into an immovable plate.

I was hit by a meeting with former Python Terry Gilliam. After years of irreverent truth (recent views: #MeToo was a witch hunt, Harvey Weinstein’s victims were “adults who have made choiceshe was a black lesbian himself), Gilliam had suddenly encountered a new, censored generation, the first of its kind, who were simply too soft and closed-minded to accept him. They couldn’t handle his truth.

“In universities, when a lecturer comes in, the ideas are so disturbing that the students have to go to a safe room, where they can hold hands and recover from those ideas,” he said.

You will have heard it already: Gilliam is following in the footsteps of John Cleese and many other actors and writers (last week, it was the turn of the novelist Anthony Horowitz lament the problem in an interview). A Telegraph the editorial complains about a trigger warning on a French class as proof that students are overprotected. It is worth challenging because several mistakes are made at once.

First: the inherent contradiction. Can a generation be both fatally unprepared for the real world and so powerful that they can shape that world entirely in their own image? Isn’t it actually people like Gilliam who are ill-prepared for the realities of today’s world?

There is also a misunderstanding about how young people are pampered. Growing up on the internet and in a country where the groups of politicians who win elections hold very different views from the typical “student liberal,” young people have perhaps never been so exposed to alternative thinking. Debates of the kind Gilliam may have first encountered in college raged around them all their lives. They’re also much more accustomed to what you might call “shattering content” than any college course. Extreme porn, racist rants, sexist trolling – all of this will be deeply familiar to those currently in college. No wonder the concept of “draw the line somewhere” appeals more to this generation than previous ones.

It is of course deeply alarming that books have been removed from reading lists because they might be offensive, two cases of which were found in a Time survey last week. But trigger warnings are not censorship; in fact, they can help broaden the audience for certain texts. Those who have had an unpleasant personal experience – rape, racism, homophobia – will always have struggled to handle debates on these topics with the kind of unbiased intellectual rigor that university courses demand. It is a good thing that lecturers and tutors are now aware of this obstacle. This should help learning, not hinder it.

We should also note that our time is not only censored. There was never a time in history when comedians like Gilliam could just say whatever they wanted. Society has always had its taboos and they have always been respected. Even when Gilliam was at the height of his powers, he would have been kicked out for blacking out, for example, or for denying the Holocaust. (“You can’t say anything these days”, you can imagine a disgruntled artist saying like The Black and White Minstrel Show was launched off the BBC, just four years after the last series of Monthy Python’s flying circus.) Gilliam longs for a time that never was.

Admittedly, certain types of taboos seem to accumulate in the West. In progressive societies, ridiculing certain oppressed groups tends to become increasingly taboo as these groups gain status, civil rights and respect. Racism, homophobia, sexism and ableism have all gone out of fashion. (These kinds of changes have always tended to be led by young liberal groups. Gilliam should note that students have always been more censored than others when it comes to offending minorities.)

But other kinds of taboos are loosening, those once imposed by dominant groups and societal orthodoxies (and those that proliferate under repressive regimes). Jokes about Christianity, the monarchy and sex, including women joking about their body parts and bodily functions, have become less and less taboo. Like swearing.

Frank Skinner recently recalled a concert in the 80s where the host apologized to the crowd after Skinner played some risque material about sex, before launching into a series of racist jokes that brought down the home. This type of change has also always tended to be driven by young people. It is possible that the number of taboos in circulation at any time is in fact neutral, even if their topics change. Gilliam and his colleagues should consider that the sensation they feel is not canceled but simply old-fashioned.

Should taboos exist? It is clear that they are extremely harmful to freedom of expression and contribute to hindering debates on which society has not yet made a decision. Progressive societies should resist them as much as possible. But there is still a place for them. There are times in history when certain issues and topics become taboo not because something interesting is hidden there or because people are afraid of it, but because a debate is downright closed. One side won.

Is racism good? Did the Holocaust take place? Was Weinstein a monster? Should black lesbians be ridiculed by Gilliam? In Britain, these debates kicked the bucket. They got rid of their mortal shell and joined the invisible choir. These are old debates. Tediously reviving them is actually detrimental to free speech (and offensive) because it suggests that public debate can never progress. All questions are open, forever.

Martha Gill is a political journalist and former lobby correspondent

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Cafe Degas buys Fair Grinds and plans a new French-style grocery store for Faubourg St. John | Where NOLA eats

For nearly 40 years, Café Degas has been a mainstay of French cuisine in New Orleans. Soon, the Faubourg Saint-Jean restaurant will have a new way to showcase these flavors.

Co-owner Jacques Soulas has confirmed plans to take over the former home of the Fair Grinds Coffeehouse just across the street at 3133 Ponce de Leon St.

The move will serve two purposes. First, it will increase the capacity of the Café Degas kitchen itself, which currently operates from a shoebox-sized kitchen.






Fair Grinds Coffeehouse was a Faubourg St. John café for more than 20 years before closing in 2022. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)


The next phase will add a casual cafe with a counter service grocery store. The focus will be on sandwiches and French pastries with coffee drinks.

Soulas said many details of the new concept are still in development, including the name.

Soulas said breakfast is a possibility at the new cafe, depending on the staff. He said the lunch menu would bring sandwiches like pate, French salami, ham and brie (ham and butter, which was a specialty of Mayhew Bakery, a café-bakery in the nearby neighborhood that just closed permanently ).

“We’re thrilled that Café Degas is taking over and can’t wait to see what they’ll do there,” said Wade Rathke, who ran Fair Grinds from 2011 until the cafe closed this spring.







degas the garden

Cafe Degas, Faubourg St. John’s longtime French restaurant, is known for its rich flavors and lush ambiance. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)


Soulas and his business partner Jerry Edgar opened Café Degas in 1986 in the tiny confines of a former hair salon on Esplanade Avenue. It has grown over time and has become an essential neighborhood restaurant.

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But his kitchen space hasn’t grown much. From a seat at the bar or at one of the outdoor tables, it’s common to see cooks carrying supplies across Ponce de Leon Street from a hidden pantry.

The home of the Fair Grinds Coffeehouse had a long history of coffee, dating back to at least the 1970s when it was the original location of True Brew Coffee.

It became Fair Grinds in 2000, originally opened by Robert Thompson and Elizabeth Herod. Rathke, who heads the activist group Acorn International, took over in 2011.

The cafe, and in particular its room on the second floor, had been used for many years for art exhibitions, meditation groups, and other community organizations.







post degassing

Café Degas, the longtime French restaurant in Faubourg Saint-Jean, is decorated for July 14. (Staff photo by Ian McNulty, NOLA.com | The Times-Picayune)


The cafe closed after Jazz Fest, and soon the property was on the market.

A second Fair Grinds location at 2221 Saint-Claude Avenue also closed during the pandemic. Rathke said that second location may return in the future, but he has no immediate plans to reopen.

When Mayhew Bakery opened on Faubourg St. John in the fall of 2019, it was part of a hopeful surge of small artisan bakeries helping to rekindle the…

Going down the Voie Verte Lafitte on foot or by bike, or perhaps in the adjacent street with the windows down, you first feel a puff of roasting…

One of my favorite windows in New Orleans is next to the bar at Café Degas, the French bistro in Faubourg Saint-Jean, overlooking a nearby block…

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Russians are buying the latest products from H&M and IKEA as stores close

MOSCOW (AP) — Russians are grabbing Western fashion and furniture this week as H&M and IKEA sell the last of their inventory in Russia, continuing their exit from the country after sending troops to Ukraine.

H&M, based in Sweden, and IKEA, based in the Netherlands, had suspended sales in Russia after the start of the military operation and are now looking to offload their stocks of clothing and home furnishings as they end it, claiming that the future is unpredictable. IKEA’s sales are online only, while the H&M store in Moscow’s Aviapark mall saw a steady stream of young shoppers on Tuesday.

Shelves and shelves were well stocked at the clothing retailer. Nearby stores were closed, including Zara, Oysho, Bershka, Pull&Bear and Uniqlo, while New Yorker, Finn Flare, Marks & Spencer and Mango were open.

“I’m going to start looking at Russian brands,” said one H&M customer, who only gave her first name Anya, after walking out of the store. Another customer, who only gave his name Leonid, said he was “very hurt” that H&M was closing: “A good store is going”.

Both companies are laying off staff as they scale back operations in Russia. H&M said on Tuesday that 6,000 workers would be affected and it was working out the details of an offer of continued support in the coming months.

IKEA said in June that many workers would lose their jobs and guaranteed them six months’ pay, plus basic benefits. He said this week that he had 15,000 workers in Russia and Belarus, but he did not immediately confirm how many would be laid off.

“We are deeply saddened by the impact this will have on our colleagues and very grateful for all their hard work and dedication,” H&M Group CEO Helena Helmersson said last month.

Many Western companies have vowed to leave Russia after sending troops to Ukraine, taking months to wind down operations and often selling stakes to Russian companies. McDonald’s has sold its 850 restaurants to a Russian franchise owner, who is preparing to reopen them under the name of Vkusno-i Tochka. British energy giants Shell and BP are taking billions of dollars in fees to exit investments and stakes in Russia.

During this time, some Western companies have remained in Russia or are partially functioning. French home improvement retailer Leroy Merlin has maintained its 112 stores in Russia, for example, while PepsiCo, Nestlé and drugmaker Johnson & Johnson are supplying essentials like medicine and baby formula while halting unsold sales. essential.

H&M said it expects costs related to leaving Russia to reach around 2 billion Swedish crowns ($197 million), which will be included as one-time costs in its third-quarter results this year.

IKEA announced in June that it would start looking for new owners for its four factories in Russia and close its purchasing and logistics offices in Moscow and Minsk, Belarus, a key Russian ally.

Russian President Vladimir Putin has pushed for years to develop and deploy Russian substitute goods and services to offset the loss of Western imports, which has taken on new urgency as companies like H&M and IKEA go out of business.

It can be difficult to tell when stores in Russia are closed. In the famous boutique-lined GUM department store in Red Square, most of the closed display cases still have the lights on and a clerk or guard inside.

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Josephine Baker was the star France wanted and the spy she needed

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The ghostwriter, historically, has always been in the business of espionage. Subordinates survive by being vigilant and suspiciously gathering intelligence about those they work for. Flight from bondage, even from an identity, also involves espionage. Harriet Tubman was named Moses for a liberator who escaped caste boundaries when his mother placed him undercover among the reeds in this pitch-smeared basket. Brown skin could be covered in soot and stereotyping or scholarly tunes. George Harris, one of Harriet Beecher Stowe’s very yellow fugitives, achieved an inscrutable weirdness with the help of walnut bark: “A slight change in the hue of his skin and the color of his hair had metamorphosed into the Spanish-looking man he then appeared; and as grace of movement and courteous manners had always been perfectly natural to him, he found no difficulty in playing the bold part he had adopted.

In this respect, Joséphine Baker, who made her way to the heart of the Roaring Twenties—Roaring Twenties France—and played the civilized primitive when she arrived there, might have been the sweetest operator of the twentieth century. The most famous dancer, singer and nightclub entertainer of her time, she was both inescapable and elusive. She seduced Parisians for the first time in 1925 when she appeared on the stage of the Théâtre des Champs-Élysées, naked except for her feathers. The following year, at the Folies Bergère, audiences saw expanses of brown skin interspersed with pearls and a skirt strung with tumescent bananas. As her star rose, Baker was known to walk the streets of Paris with her companion Chiquita, a cheetah tied by a rope of diamonds. Without really laying eyes on the woman, a visitor to Paris would see her everywhere: in the photographs and on those Paul Colin posters, like a doll in a shop window, like Parisiennes wrapping their heads in Bakerfix ointment.

Who was she, really? Baker’s tributes are generally unsubtle and beatific, embodied by contemporary black inhabitants of the arts who have managed to do what Baker could not: carve out a stardom on American soil. Diana Ross, Beyoncé and Rihanna have starred in her figure; Lynn Whitfield received an Emmy when she starred in HBO’s “The Josephine Baker Story” (1991). In “Frida” (2002), Baker maintains an affair with the main character, a nod to the free sexuality of each; she rumbas through “Midnight in Paris” (2011). Cush Jumbo directed an acclaimed tribute show, “Josephine and I,” in 2015, and Carra Patterson recently played her, with bizarre showgirl unease, in an episode of the horror series “Lovecraft Country.” Ruth Negga and Janelle Monáe are now set to take their turn, in a pair of TV series about her. Last November, Baker was inducted into the French Pantheon, the first woman of color to grace the hallowed monument, among figures such as Victor Hugo and Marie Curie. “The stereotypes, Josephine Baker takes them up,” said President Macron. “But she jostles them, digs them, transforms them into sublime burlesque. A spirit of the Enlightenment ridiculing the colonialist prejudices on the music of Sidney Bechet.

Even if Baker’s career had been limited to his role as an artist, it would have had the feel of a thriller. The racing profession of the time was bound to involve espionage: all identities are shams, and Baker had a chameleon gift for moving among them. But during the war years, she was also – as a new book, “Agent Josephine” (PublicAffairs), by British journalist Damien Lewis, recounts in plenty of fresh detail – a spy in the most literal sense. There was, after all, little that La Bakaire didn’t understand about the resistance.

“This is not a book telling the life story of Josephine Baker,” warns Lewis. Its saga, though it spans five hundred pages, is mostly about Baker’s service as a secret agent, and mostly confined to the dark years of World War II. There is also another sense, in which it is not the story of his life: the narrative is largely told by an assemblage of third parties. Lewis’s bibliography and notes clearly show how much he drew on interviews with veterans, the memoirs of agents, the private family archives of a British spymaster and the war records of the offices of intelligence, some of which was only made available to the public in 2020. But Baker maintained a code of silence about the seven years she spent fighting the Nazis and, Lewis writes, “went on her falls in 1975 taking many of these secrets with her”.

She might also be sneaky about other facts. Like many women of color eager to shape their destinies, Baker subjected her origin story to numerous revisions. “I’m not lying,” she said. “I make life better.” Her autobiographies can generously be described as free collaborations: “Les Mémoires de Joséphine Baker”, published in 1927, when she was twenty-one, and updated in the following years, was in draft form before she and her co-author, Marcel Sauvage, do not share a language. And once they did? “It would be completely funny then – and sometimes very difficult,” Sauvage wrote in the preface to the book. “Miss Baker doesn’t like to remember.” Her third autobiography, “Joséphine”, was published in 1977, two years after her death, compiled from files of notes, press clippings, documents and the draft of a memoir that her last husband, Jo Bouillon, had collected with the help of a co-author. The resulting baker is another assemblage, an “I” placed next to the testimony of other people who were enlisted, as Bouillon writes, “whenever information was missing”. More candid was the biography “Josephine: The Hungry Heart”, published in 1993 and written by her adopted son Jean-Claude Baker with journalist Chris Chase; the effort to sort through his mother’s various fictions is noted in its pages. “Josephine was a fabulist,” he wrote. “You couldn’t ask him for a strict count like you would a tailor measuring slipcovers.”

She had her reasons. “A black childhood is always kind of sad,” Baker told Sauvage. Hers began on June 3, 1906, in St. Louis, when a locally famous dancehall girl, Carrie McDonald, delivered a baby she named Freda Josephine. The baby was plump and ended up being called Tumpy (for Humpty Dumpty), a nickname that persisted long after poverty had thinned her into a wanderer. The identity of his father remains contested, and becomes for Baker the occasion to improvise. Lewis notes: “She had variously claimed that her father was a famous black lawyer, a Jewish tailor, a Spanish dancer or a white German then residing in America. The shifting mythos was reflected in the ethnic promiscuity of her screen roles: the tropical daughter of a colonial official, possibly Spanish, in “La Sirene des Tropiques” (1927), a Tunisian Eliza Doolittle, in “Princess Tam-Tam” (1935).

Little Tumpy wanted to dance, but the opportunities were few. By 1921 Baker had fled her life in St. Louis and her second husband – she was all fifteen when she married the man, William Howard Baker – and was performing as a comedy choir among the Dixie Steppers, a traveling vaudeville troupe . Aiming higher, she booked a one-way ticket to New York, where she ended up working as a backstage dresser for the all-black revue “Shuffle Along.” When a touring cast member fell ill – it was only a matter of time – Baker stepped in with bubbly style. After the success of the series, she landed a role in the 1924 Broadway musical “The Chocolate Dandies”, playing a blackface version of Topsy. She was nineteen when she was recruited by a socialite and impresario named Caroline Dudley Reagan for a new production across the Atlantic. “La Revue Nègre” opened in Les Champs on October 2 of the same year. That evening, a featured was born.

Surely you must have been there. Reviewers have stumbled over gerunds in their efforts to validate the wriggling thing to print. In the jungle dreamscape “Danse Sauvage”, Baker, clad in little more than a feathered loincloth, stepped onto her male dance partner’s shoulders, upside down and in a split. André Levinson, perhaps the greatest ballet critic of the time, wrote:

It was as if the jazz, capturing the vibrations of this body in flight, interpreted word for word his fantastic monologue. . . . The gyrations of this cynical but joyful mountebank, the good-natured smile of his big mouth, suddenly give way to visions where good humor is totally absent. In the court pas de deux of the savages, which came in the finale of the Revue Nègre, there was a savage splendor and a magnificent animality.

He was sure he had glimpsed “the black Venus that haunted Baudelaire.”

At a certain moment, its efflorescence seems to deviate from linear narration, requiring a form adapted to the artistic flights of the time: collage. The appeal of La Joséphine—in Europe, at least; America has never run so hot for her – hyperbole exhausted. “The most sensational woman ever seen,” said Ernest Hemingway. “Beyond time in the sense that emotion is beyond arithmetic” was EE Cummings’ assessment. Le Corbusier, one of her lovers, dressed as a drag Baker, blackening his skin and wearing a feathered sash. George Balanchine gave her dance lessons; Alexander Calder sculpted it in wire. Adolf Loos, after a chance meeting, began sketching an architectural marvel called Baker House, with picture windows cut into an indoor swimming pool. But Baker’s power was not a matter of being lifted onto the shoulders of great men; she regarded most of them with equal indifference. In a 1933 interview, she missed the name of a famous Spanish painter: “You know, Pinazaro, or what’s his name, the one everyone talks about?” As Margo Jefferson observed of Baker, “She was her own devoted muse.”

In the thirties, Baker refined his visual signature. The show “Paris Qui Remue”, at the illustrious Casino de Paris, made this plain. The feathers had disappeared. Writing for this magazine, in 1930, Janet Flanner reported: “His caramel-colored body which overnight became a legend in Europe is still magnificent, but it has become lean, trained, almost civilized. A Parisian critic announced with more enthusiasm: “She left us a negress, funny and primitive; she returns a great artist.

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French fashion

Downtown Des Moines Farmer’s Market welcomes 16 new mid-season vendors

Coffee, French pastries, barbecue and jewelry – the Downtown Farmers Market will introduce 16 new local vendors to the lineup starting Saturday morning at the open-air market that stretches from Water Street’s Court Avenue to Fifth Avenue.

The decision to add new local vendors comes ahead of National Farmers’ Market Week, which runs August 7-13.

A mid-season judging panel comprised of vendor committee members, sponsor representatives, farmers’ market partners and community members selected the new vendors, marking the first time a vendor judging panel stood at the mid-season.

Applications reopened in June to fill a limited number of spots “with the goal of adding new, more diverse vendors for market enthusiasts to enjoy and support,” said Kyle Oppenhuizen, director of communications for the Greater Des Moines Partnership, in A press release.

“The Downtown Farmers’ Market team is thrilled to welcome these new vendors to our already incredible lineup at the market,” Downtown Farmers’ Market manager Megan Renkel said in the press release. . “The new vendors bring a wide variety of products and experiences that we hope will reinforce the value our vendors offer throughout The Market season.”

The Downtown Farmer’s Market, which spans nine blocks in historic Des Moines, supports more than 290 local small business owners, including farmers, bakers and artists who represent 50 Iowa counties . The market typically attracts 25,000 buyers every week.

The new vendors will join the Downtown Des Moines Farmer’s Market on August 6.

After:Find the best summer produce and more at any of these 16 Des Moines and Metro Farmers’ Markets

Thousands of market visitors converged on downtown Des Moines on opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmers' Market on Saturday, May 7.

Meet the new vendors at the local Farmer’s Market

At Natural Healing & Wellness will join the Downtown Des Moines Farmer’s Market to promote better physical and mental health through natural herbs, essential oils and crystals. The company too sells healing and wellness products on its website and at the Valley Junction Farmers Market.

Big Daddy’s Original BBQ, a Des Moines staple since 1983, is another new addition to the Downtown Farmers’ Market lineup featuring chicken dinners or a pulled pork sandwich smothered in sweet and smoky barbecue sauce. Big Daddy’s sauces are also available at Hy-Vee stores in the Midwest and local Fareway and Price Chopper stores.

BLACK and bold offers specialty coffee and tea while donating 5% of its proceeds to nonprofit youth organizations across America. The Company offers subscription services on its website, blkandbold.com.

Shoppers walk past the StoryBook Orchard booth on opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmer's Market in Des Moines on Saturday, May 7.

After:Off-peak hours: where to find delicious treats at the downtown farmer’s market and 2 new brunches

The sweets of Cie Cie offers a rotating hot menu as well as a wide variety of treats, such as cookies, cupcakes and chocolate-covered strawberries at the Farmer’s Market as well as on line.

Chicken and GG wafflesfounded in 2019, brings big flavor to Des Moines with chicken and waffles, chicken sandwiches and wings.

Iowa Cookie Co. offers six-ounce cookies, with a full box weighing nearly five pounds. This lovely company has a rotating list of unique flavorsincluding Colossal Monster, Holy Roller, Dirt Worm, Sugar Daddy, Main Squeeze, Double Stuffed and Bronco.

Thousands of market visitors converged on downtown Des Moines on opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmers' Market on Saturday, May 7.

Ken Supply Co. is a Des Moines-based clothing brand that specializes in “raised graphic tees that anyone can wear, no matter what stage of life you’re in,” according to its website. The new addition also sells his signature t-shirts and tote bags online.

Knotted dough & Co. specializes in kringlas, a traditional Norwegian pastry. Twisted pastries are also sold at the Ames Farmers Market and Valley Junction Farmers Market. Knotted Dough & Co. also offers delivery through its Etsy Page, KnottedDough.

Lyela’s kitchen is a halal cooking and catering company that serves Pakistani, Indian and Chinese dishes, as well as desserts. Lyela’s kitchen can also be found at the Valley Junction Farmer’s Market.

A couple hold hands as they walk along Court Avenue during the opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmers' Market in Des Moines on Saturday, May 7.

Macaroon Club, established in 2020, is a gourmet dessert company focused on “elevating the taste of luxury to higher standards,” according to its website. Macaron Club’s classic French macaroons and gourmet baklava, a layered pastry dessert, are also sold online and the Valley Junction Farmers Market.

McCabe’s art was created in 2020 at the start of the pandemic to allow owner Ashley McCabe, a West Des Moines art teacher, to stay creative, according to its website. The small business creates handmade, lightweight jewelry that can also be purchased on her website Where Etsy shop, McCabeArtistry.

Nadia’s French Bakery in Altoona brings its selection of classic French pastries to the farmers market. From croissants and chocolatines to quiches and pies, Nadia’s French Bakery is committed to offering “tasty, delicious, varied and quality pastries,” according to its website. Some products are also available for purchase online at nadiasfrenchbakery.com.

Thousands of market visitors converged on downtown Des Moines on opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmers' Market on Saturday, May 7.

Shay Design Studio provides arts education services to the Downtown Farmers’ Market. The studio offers art education in courses from Paint & Sip to illustration and graphic design services.

The joy of loops creates natural, plant-based hair products for curly hair, but its mission doesn’t stop there. The Joy of Curls also donates its hair products to children in the foster care system through its premier community partner, Foster the Love Louisiana. Hair products are available for purchase at thejoyofcurls.shop.

Tranzitions Wellness & Beauty Bar specializes in all-natural wellness products such as crystals and stones, handmade candles and natural beauty products. The company also offers hairstyling and extension services, with appointments available online.

A cyclist rides on Court Avenue during the opening day of the 2022 Downtown Farmers' Market in Des Moines on Saturday, May 7.

Wof Cafe is a local small-batch coffee roaster that believes “coffee is a science, but it’s also an art,” according to its website. Wof Coffee also makes regular appearances at Ames Main Street Farmers’ Market Different and Cedar Rapids Downtown Farmers’ Market. Coffee flavors, each with a unique doodle design on the front, are available for purchase at wofcoffee.com.

Grace Altenhofen is a reporter for the Des Moines Register. She can be reached at [email protected] or on Twitter @gracealtenhofen.

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French fashion

The Case of the Artist and the True Crime Documentary

If you’re the kind of viewer — like me — who watches true-crime documentaries and spends all of your time wondering exactly how you’re being manipulated, this week offers an opportunity to peek behind the curtain.

It comes in the form of two very good series, one released last year and one premiering in America on Thursday, about a harrowing and seemingly never-ending case, the 1996 murder of Sophie Toscan du Plantier at her vacation home on the south coast of Ireland.

The case contains so many ingredients of true-crime fascination that it barely feels real. The victim was beautiful, semi-famous (her husband, Daniel, was one of France’s leading film producers) and far from home in a hauntingly dramatic landscape. The murder, two days before Christmas, was brutal and without eyewitnesses.

One suspect, a freelance journalist named Ian Bailey, who aggressively reported on the murder, was arrested twice by police and released without charge each time by prosecutors. The investigation by the Garda, Ireland’s national police, has been dogged by accusations of incompetence and corruption. Bailey went to court twice, suing a newspaper group and then the police; he lost each time, cementing his status in the public mind as a murderer who got away with it.

Meanwhile, members of Toscan du Plantier’s bereaved family waited anxiously in France for Ireland to find his killer. Completely convinced of Bailey’s guilt, they pushed for him to be tried in absentia in France, where he was found guilty and sentenced to 25 years. Arrested again by the Garda, he was again released by the Irish State, which refused to extradite him. This is where things stand today, a quarter of a century after the murder.

It’s a lot. I have it all in my head because it’s all covered, cohesively and dramatically, in all three episodes “Sophie: Murder in West Cork”, which came to Netflix last year, and the five episode “Murder at the Cottage: The Search for Justice for Sophie”, premiering on the streamer shop after it aired last year in Britain.

But while the two basically tell the same story, they leave you with very different feelings about Ian Bailey. By the end of “Sophie,” you’re likely to see him as a strange, off-putting character and reasonably convinced of his guilt. By the end of “Murder at the Cottage,” you’re more likely to see his guilt as possible but unproven and weigh his eccentric behavior against the undeniable toll the case has taken on him, guilty or not.

Part of this difference has to do, as you would expect, with selection and emphasis. Suggestions that the victim knew Bailey, which he denies, are further aired in “Sophie”. A report of a speeding Ford Fiesta, driver unknown, near the victim’s house the night of the murder only appears in “Murder at the Cottage”. There are many other examples.

It has even more to do with representation. “Sophie” gets closer to the point of view of Toscan du Plantier’s parents, son and other relatives, interviewing them at length and closely following their crusade. The main characters of “Murder at the Cottage” are Bailey and her faithful romantic partner in most cases, Jules Thomas. (The victim’s family members were interviewed for “Murder at the Cottage” but asked that the footage be deleted after the series preview; it appears in archival interviews.)

But perhaps the most important element is provenance. “Sophie,” directed by John Dower (“Thrilla in Manila”), is a solid example of Netflix’s true-crime style. It’s leaning towards drama and surprise, without being overtly sensational; it’s polished and crisp but not particularly inventive or inquisitive, being more concerned with presenting story elements in a familiar, easily digestible form.

And its focus is on culpability – on identifying a suspect or suspects and building a case. It’s the truest crime MO, to take on the role of prosecutor and heighten the emotions of us, the jury, and steer them in a particular direction. In the case of “Sophie”, the simplest – and perhaps the correct – direction is toward Bailey’s guilt.

But guilt isn’t the central issue in “Murder at the Cottage,” which fulfills the demands of true-crime documentary without being captive to the format. It is, in a descriptive sense, a work of art, written and directed by talented Irish filmmaker Jim Sheridan, who appears onscreen as narrator, interviewer and spiritual guide. It’s also clearly a passion project, which Sheridan had been working on since at least 2015, and you wonder about its relationship to his film career, which got off to a brilliant start – ‘My Left Foot’, ‘In the Name of the Father “, “In America” – but has lost momentum in the last decade.

In the Netflix series, the information is expertly arranged to embody an existing story, which had already been told by the media over the years, and to fit in with an existing moral calculus. In “Murder at the Cottage”, Sheridan goes in search of a story that will make sense of the maddening events. Her approach is actually simpler than that of “Sophie”, which jumps in time to increase the surprise. It goes from station to station, chronologically, sacrificing some drama for the sake of clarity.

His progress is guided by his own ideas and feelings, in a way that runs counter to easy answers or epiphanies. He cannot contain his irritation at what he sees as the shoddy and possibly unscrupulous workmanship of the Garda, or the authoritarian actions of the French court. But he’s scrupulous about maintaining perspective. At a crucial moment, a reporter appears onscreen to point out that there’s no reason why “the Garda is corrupt” and “Ian Bailey is guilty” can’t both be true. (This summer the Garda announced that they would formally look into the matter.)

More problematic – certainly for Toscan du Plantier’s family – he has a storyteller’s eye for the character, and Bailey, erratic, imposing and undeniably charismatic, holds the screen in a way that buttoned-up, pensive family members they do not do. Sheridan and Bailey have clearly grown close over the years of filming — during the French trial, Sheridan phones Bailey for updates, supposedly to get her answers on the film — and Sheridan surely knows that screen time and intimacy will generate sympathy for the accused killer. But Sheridan is just following the story where his instincts and circumstances lead him.

Along the way, viewers will appreciate the textures Sheridan brings to a genre usually run by numbers. Pictorially, visually and rhythmically, the series is a pleasure. And the ideas arise and mix with an unusual subtlety. At the start of the series, Bailey says, “It’s hard, the gap between knowing something and being able to prove it.” Several episodes later, when the head cop on the case talks about feeling helpless over the corruption charges, you realize his complaint is the same as Bailey’s.

Other choices by Sheridan are more immediate and vivid, such as a photo of Bailey pulling out one of his own teeth with pliers which is paired with a discussion of the French court’s description of him as borderline psychotic. But again, it’s complicated: it could be evidence of a psychosis, or it could just be evidence of a sharp theatrical personality that turns people against itself.

In a rumination towards the end of the series, Sheridan addresses the uncertainties of the story and his role in it: “Is he capable of killing? Aren’t we all? Is he guilty? I do not know. I don’t think we can say for sure. If “Murder at the Cottage” isn’t, ultimately, something more than a particularly well-made and nuanced example of the true-crime series, it’s because of another question Sheridan leaves unanswered: why he cares so much.

He hints at a personal connection and speaks of his rage at the lack of justice for Toscan du Plantier, but something is missing, a level of emotion that would justify the effort. We can still get the answer because it would be still following the case.

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French fashion

Black Girls Surf Founder Amplifies Athletes’ Voices

Sports Illustrated and Empower Onyx highlight the diverse journeys of black women in sports – from veteran athletes to rising stars, coaches, executives and more – in the series, She-evate: 100 Influential Black Women in Sports.


When Rhonda Harper, founder and director of Black Girls Surf, used to sit with her siblings in her Kansas home watching a series of TV shows, she had no idea what to enjoy the specials. beach from his landlocked living room would lead to the most exhilarating sport of his life: surfing. When skateboarding took a step back and the search for black female riders began, Harper began designing an organization that reached out to more than just black girls with the right to compete. Its roots, deep in social justice, continue to instill fairness in the global surf industry.

“In the ’70s, Stevie Wonder, the NAACP, and civil rights were huge in Kansas City,” Harper says. “I was watching Muscle Beach Party and little Stevie Wonder debuted. That was the connection for me.

Harper adds that she started buying surf magazines with the money she earned on her paper route. “There were no black people surfing in the whole movie. The only time I saw someone black was when I saw Stevie play. I already wanted to surf, but it’s not it was when I saw Stevie that I realized I could be in that scenario,” she says.

Harper’s family moved to California when she was 10. They had a pool in their backyard, a far cry from the separate pool two blocks from their former home in Kansas City. “I learned to swim in a black community pool in Parkwood, three miles from my house instead of the one that was only two blocks away,” says Harper. “My father, who was a retired coast guard, taught me.”

When they arrived at their new home in San Jose, the pool water was green. So her mother took the family to the beach, and swimming became Harper’s sport until she graduated from high school. “I was probably the only senior with a grad ring that has a surfer on the side,” Harper says.

“I started at 7, just watching movies, and then I moved to San Jose, 20 minutes from the beach,” says Harper. “My whole life has changed.” As the junior activist grew into a teenager, her upbringing for social justice left little patience for inequity. Her rebellious spirit prompted her parents to send her to live with her 19-year-old sister Natalie in Oahu, Hawaii. Harper is still amused when she recalls how they fired her “to punish her.”

Her father nicknamed her “Rocky” because she was constantly fighting at school. “When I came to California it was even worse because everyone had their mouths open and there was no segregation,” she says. Living with Natalie, a student in Oahu, was paradise for Harper. She stayed until she graduated from high school, and her love of the ocean and surfing brought her peace and clarity. The ocean was a mile away and the bus was only 25 cents, Harper recalls.

“I learned a lot about myself,” she says. “First, I’m there by myself. No lifeguards. It’s just me in the water. There’s a lot of anger that I brought back in my suitcase about why I had to move. I could feel him go. A lightness came over me, as the days went by, and I was getting better and better. I just felt a lot calmer. There was a level of maturity that set in. Harper’s sister told him not to go into the water without her. Nevertheless, caution was thrown to the waves. A determined Harper used to hide her used $25 board in thick brush next to the apartment, never bringing it inside. And his sister was never the wiser.

After graduating, Harper went to the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising and worked with her older brother, Keith, who was already making clothes for Bobby Brown and New Edition. Harper’s list of celebrity clients has grown and spanned from actor Eddie Murphy to rapper Heavy D.

After 25 years in the field, she decided to launch her own line of surf clothing. All she needed was a black surfer to model her clothes on. That’s when she discovered how hard they were to find.

“I wanted an Afro-centric, surf-influenced clothing line for black people who surf,” she says. While researching her niche market, she came across archival information about Inkwell Beach in Santa Monica, a place where black people congregated during segregation. “There was another article I had read about this first surfer of African and Latino descent, Nick Gabaldon, who surfed this same beach.

Harper began to connect her main passions – activism, surfing, fashion and writing – into a journey that changed her life. After leading the charge to place a memorial plaque at Inkwell Beach in Santa Monica for 24-year-old Gabaldon, whom Harper says was “overdone on a big wave day, [when] he hit the Malibu pier and died. She continued to support and coach black surfers while seeking out her female counterparts. It was important for them to have a space to showcase their athleticism. Harper’s quest would open the floodgates for women who had gone unrecognized in the surfing world. From the start, Harper felt this sense of exclusion.

“I tried to make the swim team in high school, but I didn’t look the same as my white counterparts in their bathing suits,” she recalled. “So I always got teased by the coach, who was already racist. He always had something to say about black bodies and black people. I told my mum I didn’t want to be in that environment. So I quit.” Harper was grateful that surfing was an individual sport rather than a team sport, and she said she preferred surfing because it gave her a sense of peace.

The writing was really on the wall when someone from a black athlete sports network read Harper’s press release on Gabaldon’s plaque and asked him to report on black surfers. “I started looking for a surfer, and I couldn’t find one that fit that category,” she says. “It’s the beginning of my career as a journalist, so I can explain why there are no black surfers. still no blacks on these pages.

She took a course with the International Surfing Association, part of the International Olympic Committee, and became the first black surfing judge. She decided to use this title to set up a platform, The Africa Surf International, which allows black surfers to show their talent. The ASI was going to be a competition held in Sierra Leone for a specific reason: it was where the Africans were all separated and taken to different parts of the world, Harper explains. “I learned that they discovered surfing in Ghana before Hawaii,” she adds. “We were already surfing, but this information was hidden from us.”

Years later, Harper realized something else that was hidden in plain sight: Afro-Latina surfers. She was “looking” for a black community surfing the waves, and it already existed. As her duties as a judge increased, she discovered the mystery. “I discovered that there were black surfers all over the world,” she says. “Some of them didn’t identify themselves, because it was the early 2000s and we weren’t yet calling people who lived in Venezuela and Brazil Afro-Latin or Afro-Brazilian. I was seeing these surfers when I was a journalist, and I missed it.

“There was literally a black surfer, Suelen Naraísa, who carried the Olympic torch in 2016,” she says. “When I talk about culture and black people in surfing, I can’t leave out the Brazilian community because they have been building it for a very long time.” The discovery inspired Harper to continue her fight.

She went to the International Surfing Association games in 2005 and 2006, where she noticed the absence of black women competing. Finally, Harper has found enough girls to turn up a heat. In 2014, she encouraged her team to do an exhibition that would allow girls to “go out and win trophies”. And Harper hoped that “maybe it would spark a new generation of people seeing black women surfing.”

Then Ebola hit the country and suspended the ASI contest. It was then that Harper decided to bring two of the West African girls to California for training and “proper” exposure. (One of them ended up not coming to the United States due to the travel ban and the closure of embassies). Over the next few years, Black Girls Surf began to take shape. “Even though everything was shut down, I continued to work to bring awareness to black women,” Harper says. She could never have seen what was to follow: COVID-19, which stranded Harper in Senegal for two years.

“Everything you see on Black Girls Surf now was done from an apartment in Senegal because I was trapped,” says Harper, who planned a quick trip to the country to film Khadjou Sambe, the Senegalese surfer she trains for the Olympics and the World Surfing Pro League. “I had been there for two years when the country closed. I couldn’t go home. Yet its social justice has transformed and flourished during the pandemic. “I trained girls in Senegal,” she says. “We don’t speak the same language. I don’t know Wolof. I don’t know French. But I know direction, compassion and empathy.

According to Harper, Sambe’s surf trip will ultimately change the Senegalese Federation. “Senegalese girls are not registered with their federation,” says Harper. “They didn’t want Black Girls Surf to be part of this federation because they know it’s going to change the country. It’s already changing,” says Harper, who made a global paddle for George Floyd.

“The surfing industry was so locked into environmental justice that they didn’t realize it went hand in hand with social justice,” she says. “We know this because there are dumps in black and brown communities. It’s not just about the ocean. It is about the environment and its totality. I watched my white counterparts talk about whale kills. And on the other side, all my black friends were crying because black people were being killed.

Her unwavering activism continues to push the boundaries as she moves the needle of her Black Girls Surf mission with unique programs like surf therapy; GROMS, an NFT collection; surf camps, like the one at Bowdoin College in Maine; and of course her clothing line, Hurley Black Girls Surf.

Bryna Jean-Marie is a contributor for Strengthen Onyxa diverse multi-channel platform celebrating the stories and transformative power of sport for black women and girls.

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French fashion

Kaia Gerber models silk boxers, high boots and sunglasses for French fashion house Celine

Kaia Gerber wears silk boxers, knee high boots and sunglasses in chic black and white photos for French fashion house Celine

Kaia Gerber showed off the latest looks from French luxury brand Celine’s winter collection on social media.

The 20-year-old model wore Celina silk boxers and high Celine boots in a black and white photo by Hedi Slimane Photography posted to Instagram on Saturday.

The brunette beauty also presented a new Céline chain box bag from the winter 2022 collection available in stores and on Celine.com from August 26.

French brand: Kaia Gerber unveiled the latest looks from French luxury brand Céline on social media” class=”blkBorder img-share” style=”max-width:100%” />

French brand: Kaia Gerber unveiled the latest looks from French luxury brand Céline on social media

Kaia was also shown in a close-up profile posted on Instagram by Céline on Sunday for the brand’s estimated 4.9 million followers.

She wore Celine cat-eye sunglasses with a cashmere turtleneck and signature necklace in the black and white image by Hedi Slimane Photography.

Hedi, 54, has been Céline’s creative, art and image director since February 2018.

The French ready-to-wear and luxury leather goods brand was founded in 1945 by Céline Vipiana and her husband Richard.

Silk boxers: The 20-year-old model wore Celina silk boxers and high Celine boots in a black and white photo by Hedi Slimane Photography posted on Instagram on Saturday

Silk boxers: The 20-year-old model wore Celina silk boxers and high Celine boots in a black and white photo by Hedi Slimane Photography posted on Instagram on Saturday

Celine has belonged to the LVMH group since 1996 and the brand has approximately 180 stores worldwide.

Kaia is the daughter of model Cindy Crawford, 56, and businessman Rande Gerber, 60.

She has an older brother Presley, 23.

Model mom: Kaia was shown last November with her supermodel mom Cindy Crawford

Model mom: Kaia was shown last November with her supermodel mom Cindy Crawford

Kaia has been in a relationship with actor Austin Butler, 30, after they were first romantically linked in December 2021.

Austin recently traveled to Budapest, Hungary to shoot the Dune sequel.

Kaia has also made a name for herself as an actress. She stars in the new short film The Palisades, which premiered last week at the LA Shorts International Film Festival. The 13-minute feature is billed on IMDb as “an exploration of the intricacies of female friendship” and was directed by Carissa Gallo.

Last year, the Los Angeles native also starred in three episodes of American Horror Stories and four episodes of American Horror Story: Double Feature.

She also has a recurring role in the Apple TV+ period comedy miniseries, Mrs. American Pie, which began filming in May. The series stars Kristen Wiig, Laura Dern, Allison Janey, Leslie Bibb, Ricky Martin and Carol Burnett.

Family portrait: Rande Gerber, Cindy, Kaia and Presley Gerber appear in December 2018 in London

Family portrait: Rande Gerber, Cindy, Kaia and Presley Gerber appear in December 2018 in London

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French fashion

Live Updates: Procter & Gamble warns of consumer reluctance to accept price hikes

©Bloomberg

Colgate-Palmolive raised its full-year guidance after pledging to pass on rising raw material and logistics costs by further raising prices for its products.

The consumer goods group, whose brands include Speed ​​Stick deodorant and Softsoap, raised its forecast for full-year organic sales growth by 1 percentage point to between 5 and 7%, but maintained its net sales growth forecast in the 1-4% range.

The toothpaste maker reported second-quarter net sales up 5.5% to $4.48 billion, above analyst estimates of $4.35 billion, according to a Refinitiv poll, and up 5.5% year-on-year. Organic sales increased 9%, with growth across all divisions.

Colgate reported higher raw material, packaging and logistics costs in the quarter, as well as a 3.5% negative impact on net sales due to currency volatility .

“We have acted boldly on pricing and are accelerating our plans to manage revenue growth, including additional pricing, for the remainder of the year,” chief executive Noel Wallace said in a statement.

On a call with analysts, he said price increases would be “broad across the world” in the second half.

“It’s an unpredictable environment relative to where we see consumers moving, where we see inflation moving,” he said. “But the good news is that we took the awards and have other awards planned around the world for the second half.”

The New York-based company reported diluted earnings of 72 cents per share, better than forecast 71 cents.

Colgate is the latest consumer goods company to pass on rising inflationary costs to customers, following moves by Nestlé, Kraft Heinz, Danone and Unilever.

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French fashion

French clothing retailer Decathlon launches rental service

Image courtesy: activities.decathlon.ca

Decathlon is there with a rental service to make a range of sports products more accessible and affordable.

The French clothing retailer’s decision should help Britons in this tough cost of living crisis.

Notably, customers can “pay as you go” on the service which bills every 24 hours, instead of hourly.

Here it should be clarified that the first 24 hours – for a kayak – are charged at £30, then only £15 on the second day.

On subsequent days it’s £10 per day. A one week rental would therefore cost 56p per hour.

Although the service is currently available in London, Poole, Glasgow and Southampton, it will soon be rolled out to other stores.

Decathlon is offering products such as stand-up paddle boards (SUPs), kayaks and e-bikes as part of its new rental service to make it more accessible to shoppers.

The retailer believes that its mission is not only to make the sport more accessible to as many people as possible, but also to offer rental services in the most environmentally friendly way.

With over 1,697 stores in 60 countries and regions, Decathlon is the world’s largest sporting goods retailer.

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French fashion

Why You Should Bring Back the Classic Alarm Clock

Written by Jessica Bumpus, CNN

I reset the alarm clock. An overlooked mechanism in today’s technologically synchronized world, your phone does everything, it tells the time, it wakes you up, it’s decentralized from a phone. That’s wonderful.

Why? Because before I brought an analog clock back to my bedroom, I spent an average of two hours and 56 minutes in front of a screen a week, and my phone would tell me every Monday, moments after my alarm went off.

And, every morning, when I was only trying to press “snooze”, I would be faced with a flurry of notifications piling up one behind the other like a game of solitaire cards on the screen. My phone was telling me my friends were feeling chatty last night with over 34 Whatsapp messages; there would be Instagram alerts and dozens of emails from multiple accounts. The notifications filled me with dread and stress about the day ahead before I even had my morning coffee.

Sleeping troubles? Try These 4 Easy Stretches Before Bed

I hadn’t realized it at the time, but my old analog clock – a compact travel model – was an understated luxury.

Its design would have paled in comparison to the latest iPhones, but it did its job very well; its piercing, shrill cry was effective in waking me up every morning. Relevantly, it didn’t fill my mind with chatter, bad news, and delays before the day started.

Changing habits

I switched from alarm clock to phone about 10 years ago after telling someone what I thought was a funny story about how my alarm clock once went off in my suitcase while I was in the trunk of a taxi, forcing us to stop if I could retrieve it. The story caused perplexity. “Are you using a real alarm clock?” they asked, as if it were a fax machine. “Why don’t you use your phone?” Ah, I thought. Why not me ? I probably didn’t even know I could at the time. But I succumbed to peer pressure and deleted my old clock. And that’s when the luxury of waking up without notifications ended and the misery of staring at them in the middle of the night when I checked the time on my phone began.

“Reintroducing an alarm clock gives me the time, space and separation that my phone didn’t have.”

As our use of cell phones continues to grow (a 2018 report by Deloitte found that US smartphone users check their phones 14 billion times a day, up from 9 billion in the same 2016 report), health experts -be say it negatively impacts our morning routines.

“When you wake up the first thing, the ideal thing is to wake up and spend some time in your mind before you are bombarded with everything that is going on in the world. Give yourself a chance to adapt to the waking world.” said Lily Silverton, mental health and wellness coach. “Historically, we weren’t used to being so diverted from our attention as we are today.”

Before alarms, it was roosters, church bells, door knockers (people who were paid to wake you up by tapping on the door or window with a long stick, which happened until the 1970s in the industrial Britain) and even our own bladders that got us out of bed. Clockmaker Levi Hutchins of Concord, New Hampshire is widely believed to have invented one of the first alarm clocks in 1787. His design rang only once at 4 a.m., his favorite wake-up time. Little is known about the details of the actual design, but he wrote: “It was the idea of ​​a clock that could sound an alarm that was difficult, not the execution of the idea. It was the very simplicity of arranging the bell to ring at the predetermined time.” Hutchins never patented or manufactured this clock.

It was years later, in 1874, that French inventor Antoine Redier became the first to patent an adjustable mechanical alarm clock. And in 1876, a small mechanical wind-up clock was patented in the United States by Seth E. Thomas, which prompted the great American watchmakers to start making small alarm clocks. German watchmakers would soon follow and by the end of the 1800s the electric alarm clock had been invented.

5 things we’re still wrong about sleep, according to an expert

Buy clocks

Today, alarm clocks come in a number of designs. From riffs on the Panasonic RC-6025 clock radio, immortalized in the 1993 film Groundhog Day, to more retro designs from classic brands like Roberts. A quick Etsy search reveals new designs in the shape of robots, owls, or even bunnies.

Elsewhere, more modern designs include the addition of colored nightlights, projectors (to project the time onto your ceiling or wall! No, thanks), speakers with USB ports, climate and power control. humidity, and even teen-proof bed shakers.

Last year, the late Virgil Abloh’s Off-White label teamed up with Braun to release a pair of stylish, limited-edition alarm clocks. In orange and blue, the design is based on the brand’s classic BC02 alarm clock which, strikingly simple, was originally designed by Dieter Rams and Dietrich Lubs in the 1980s. Fashion label Paul Smith has also released its version of the clock in 2020.

All I was looking for, however, was a simple alarm clock, much like my original. And I got one from the local homewares store nearby for £8.50 (just over $10). The first night I used it, I felt oddly excited as I physically hurt the decor instead of sliding across a screen. The next morning, in a kind of anti-climax, I woke up before the alarm clock. But I already felt like I had conquered the day, instead of continuing it.

According to Silverton, “Technology exploits our psychological weaknesses.” And being connected, she noted, is amazing but terrible at the same time. “It’s about managing that and creating a routine that works for you.”

What I think I have now. Reintroducing an alarm clock gives me the time, space, and separation that my phone didn’t have. Even though my phone is still next to the bed, the difference is that it’s not the first thing I look for anymore. My first utterance of the day is no longer blaspheming over an email and feeling my blood boil, I find myself quietly pondering what I might have for breakfast. Which gave me a sense of control and calm. Oddly, it made me feel younger – I guess because the experience is nostalgic, or maybe because I sleep better. And what could be more luxurious than that?

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French fashion

Angelina Jolie Wins Brad Pitt’s Legal Battle for Wine Estate: Details

A victory. Angelina Jolie has won her legal battle against Brad Pitt over their winery. The ex-couple fought for their prized vineyard amid their lengthy divorce.

The legal process has been emotional as their French wine estate, Chateau Miraval, was where the couple married in 2014. The couple bought the estate in 2008, but are in the midst of a dramatic divorce process that started in 2016. Angelina sold her stake. in the cellar in Stoli but has since been in legal battles with Brad and his business partners. Angelina’s team subpoenaed documents to Brad, his business manager and his company, Mondo Bongo. On July 22, 2022, the judge assigned to the case told Brad to turn over the documents despite the protests of the Once upon a time… in Hollywood actor.

A source familiar with the matter said Page 6 on July 22, 2022, that Brad has an ongoing grudge against Angelina. “Any rational human being would be happy if Stoli [be a partner in their business. They have top-notch marketing and distribution,” the insider explained. “He just can’t see past his hatred of Jolie.” The source then explained the benefits of the stake when it comes to their six kids. “The best way to retain value for [their kids] is that parents retain full ownership of this increasingly valuable and expanding asset. »

Angelina filed for divorce from Pitt in 2016 after an altercation on their private jet with their oldest son, Maddox, and Brad. A source said People at the time Brad was allegedly “drunk,” the insider said, “and there was an argument between him and Angelina.” According to the source, the eldest son intervened and “there was a parent-child argument that was not handled in the right way and escalated more than it should have.”

Angelina might have filed an investigation against Brad in one of her legal battles against him. The lawsuit is filed under the Freedom of Information Act “about the agency’s investigation of an incident of domestic violence that occurred several years ago involving the complainant and her minor children as victims and witnesses”. The reasoning behind the lawsuit concerned “the agency’s investigation of a domestic violence incident that occurred several years ago involving the complainant and her minor children as victims and witnesses.”

“There is little precedent for the FBI to share information about an investigation that was closed without charge,” a legal source said. Page 6. “Angelina is probably looking for a piece of information, something else to use against Brad, to hurt him. It’s about a desperate fishing expedition trying to find something that probably doesn’t exist. not in the FBI notes and make it public.

Brad and Angelina are also in a custody battle for their six children: Maddox, 20, Pax, 17, Zahara, 16, Shiloh, 15, and twins Knox and Vivienne, 13. In May 2021, a judge ruled in favor of Brad to share custody with Angelina. However, the decision was returned to court in July after the judge handling the case, Judge John W. Ouderkirk, was removed from office due to his past professional relationship with Brad.

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French fashion

Kahii Kissaten Bistro is now a Japanese-style cafe by day and a French-inspired wine bar by night

There aren’t many places in the city that cater to both the before and after work crowd, but the newly renovated Kahii hopes to do just that. It has expanded its offering beyond tea, coffee, sandwiches and specialty pastries to a French-inspired evening wine and snack menu.

The younger sibling of the nearby Kuro bar and restaurant, the newly renamed Bistro Kahii Kissaten is on Kent Street and is named after the Kissaten Japanese cafes in Japan. A Kissaten is traditionally a vintage-themed café, with a strong emphasis on coffee, socializing and small bites – something the owners pay homage to in this decidedly sleek and modern take on the theme.

This small but perfectly laid out space now offers a menu for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. You can spend the morning with a coffee, a matcha and a croissant – and indulge in one of the famous katsu or three-cheese sandos for lunch.

As day turns to night, Kahii now transforms into a bistro with a largely French wine list carefully curated by their head sommelier and a small bites menu curated by Kuro. Snacks include appellation rock oysters, salmon confit with herbed tofu and seared trevally sashimi – or for something heartier, Kuro fried chicken and wagyu steak with crispy potatoes.

The owners hope Kahii’s new chapter will provide a stylish and relaxed space for punters to take a break from the day or relax before heading home.

Kahii Kissaten Bistro is located in the lobby of 364 Kent Street and is now open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. Monday through Friday, with the bistro open from 5 p.m. until late, Tuesday through Saturday.

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French fashion

This Hyderabad house marries French-style architecture with vernacular interiors

Naina Reddy and Rajat Sanghvi, founders and principal designers of MakeSpace Architects, decided to furnish their own home in Hyderabad in a way that showcased their personal style. The couple who recently became parents moved into a three-bedroom, 3,000-square-foot apartment in a swanky spot in town and managed to decorate their home in the space of two and a half months.

Named Stonebridge Abode, the house architecturally follows the French style with beautiful arched windows bringing in lots of light and opening up to endless views of the cityscape. “We imagined the apartment as a blank canvas, which led us to decorate it with different colors through the art we collected during our travels. The space not only reflects our personality, but expresses our dynamic yet simple way of life,” says Reddy.

The spacious living room has two sitting areas with a large open space with marble flooring further enhancing this visual.

Sankeerth Jonnada

Monochromatic Wonder

The main door is painted in a dark hue, but once inside the walls are a wave of white, complemented by a mirror-polished Vietnamese marble floor and sheer curtains against the large French windows that filter in a natural light abundant. “We really don’t use artificial lighting until the evening because there is enough sunlight during the day,” Sanghvi reveals. The use of white was a conscious decision in order to enhance the sense of space and draw attention to architectural features, especially arches. “The white base helps define the contemporary clean lines and simple geometry of the space. We kept the palette neutral and splashed as many colors throughout the home in the form of artwork and wallpaper” , he adds.

Greys, browns and greens fill the entrance to the house, melting it against the white canvas.

Sankeerth Jonnada
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French fashion

Ferrari in form and Mercedes in the mix – 5 scenarios we’re excited about ahead of the French Grand Prix

The first part of the 2022 season will end with a double-header that begins with a trip to the south of France, so here are some of the topics that have us excited ahead of the French Grand Prix at Paul Ricard.

1. Ferrari is gaining momentum

Red Bull’s six-game winning streak had led some to argue that the fight for both championships was already over before we even reached mid-season. But that view ignored Ferrari and overlooked the threat they had posed in most of those six races.

It is true that Ferrari had failed to take a chance at that time, but that changed over the last two race weekends as Carlos Sainz won at Silverstone and Charles Leclerc took another victory in Austria to remind Red Bull that the Scuderia has not gone everywhere.

WATCH: The inside story of Carlos Sainz’s first Formula 1 victory at the British Grand Prix

The two teams have been very close for much of the season so far, and there’s no obvious reason to expect the situation to be any different heading to France, where Ferrari have had a hard time. struggled with tire wear a year ago, but learned some valuable lessons that helped them improve.

Leclerc is now second in the drivers’ championship and has closed the gap to Max Verstappen by 11 points – to 38 – in the last two races. Although you’d still prefer to be the championship leader, if Leclerc can salvage a few more points this weekend, the pressure could start to mount a bit on the defending champion.

Leclerc is now second in the Drivers’ Championship after winning in Austria

2. Mercedes should become strong again

I’m sure you don’t need to mention it, but at Silverstone we had an absolutely epic race as Mercedes managed to threaten the top two teams, while Lewis Hamilton looked to be in the hunt for victory.

In the end, Hamilton had to settle for third, but the British driver’s decision over Leclerc and Sergio Perez on the final corner as all three gave him up in front of a home crowd of supporters will long be remembered.

READ MORE: Mercedes becomes first global sports team to invest in sustainable aviation fuel

Luckily we don’t have to wait long for the chance to potentially see something similar, as Paul Ricard is a track that has some similarities to Silverstone, with high-speed corners and a smooth track surface that should play a part. in the hands of Mercedes. slightly more than Austria.

The top two teams will be worried, as Mercedes being in the mix and potentially taking points away from them adds unpredictability to the title fight. There is a chance that Hamilton or George Russell could take points off one of Red Bull or Ferrari, benefiting the other team and closing the standings or opening up even wider gaps.


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Mercedes’ improved performance could see them in Paul Ricard fight

3. French support for Alpine

A very strong double-points finish for Alpine in Austria saw the team draw with McLaren in the battle for fourth place in the Constructors’ Championship, with McLaren retaining the advantage thanks to Lando Norris’ podium at Imola.

But it looks like the momentum is with the French team, and heading into their home race they will be looking to get away from fourth-placed McLaren.

Grill the Grid: Watch the drivers play “higher or lower” with hilarious results.

The result in Austria was led by an excellent fifth-place finish from Esteban Ocon, who has continued his very strong season so far, but was supported by Fernando Alonso’s 10th-place finish from the back of the grid. And it was Alonso who gave Alpine more points than McLaren at Silverstone a week earlier, putting Norris in fifth place on that occasion on a track comparable to Paul Ricard.

The proud French backing will back their team at Le Castellet, and Ocon and Alonso’s performances so far this season provide plenty of reason to be optimistic as Alpine’s home race approaches.


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After taking fifth place in Austria, Esteban Ocon and Alpine will now return to France, where they can expect plenty of support this weekend.

4. Schumacher takes flight

Momentum seems to be the buzzword for the feature this week, and another driver who has plenty of it is Mick Schumacher. The young German has really found form in recent weeks, and while he’s had to wait 31 Grands Prix for his first points to finally arrive – courtesy of an eighth-place finish at Silverstone which also included a thrilling fight with Verstappen – he backed this in spectacular Austrian style.

A top-six finish for Schumacher at the Red Bull Ring was also part of a back-to-back Haas double score, dropping the team to seventh in the constructors’ championship, having been ninth before the Grand Prix of Great Britain. Brittany. . And rather than a pair of lucky results, they feel like a simple reward for the potential Haas has shown so far this season.

READ MORE: Vasseur confirms he is seeking an FP1 exit for F2 star Pourchaire in 2022

And don’t forget, Paul Ricard was the scene of Schumacher’s first ‘appearance’ in Q2 last year. Okay he crashed out in Q1 whilst in the top 15 and the ensuing red flag saw him advance but unable to participate – but it was a more competitive performance despite the relative lack of pace of the 2021 Haas, so there’s every chance the race continues for a 2020 Formula 2 champion who is clearly gaining in confidence.


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Mick Schumacher has been in fine form in recent races, with two top 10 finishes at Silverstone and Austria

5. Silly Pilot Season Developments

Between leaving the Formula 1 paddock to leave Austria and settling in France, a lot has happened at McLaren. IndyCar star Colton Herta tested a 2021 car for the team at Portimao last week, then just after that test was completed they announced the signing of reigning IndyCar champion Alex Palou to their program wider race.

Although there are still contractual issues to be worked out with Palou and no clarity on where he will be racing, the announcement stated that he will also be testing a 2021 car at some point, which only increases the expectations. speculation over Daniel Ricciardo’s future.

READ MORE: Ricciardo says he’s ‘committed’ to McLaren for 2023 as he insists he’s ‘not stepping away from the sport’

Ricciardo came out and said he’s not going anywhere because he has a tight contract until the end of 2023. But it’s no secret he and the team aren’t happy with the how this season has gone so far.

Such speculation only leads to scrutiny of other seats and potential moves, with multiple world champions Alonso and Sebastian Vettel two yet to confirm their future plans – and seats still technically available in six of the teams. on the grid.


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Riccairdo has already confirmed his intention to stay at McLaren for the 2023 season
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French fashion

What to watch this weekend: Dakota Johnson’s Persuasion, a French thriller, and Mrs. Harris goes to Paris

Ready to settle in with a good movie or TV show as the week draws to a close and the summer heat sets in? vogueThis weekend’s choices lean heavily towards the cinema and will particularly appeal to all Francophiles. First there’s Claire Denis’ latest film, a subversive romantic drama starring Juliette Binoche, as well as the charming comedy Mrs. Harris goes to Paris starring Lesley Manville and Isabelle Huppert, both in theaters now. But there’s also something you can watch from the comfort of your couch, namely Dakota Johnson’s delicious (if divisive) new riff on Jane Austen. Persuasion, which premiered on Friday via Netflix.

Here, find vogue‘s recommendations on what to watch this weekend, whether it’s a Saturday night or a lazy Sunday morning.

Persuasion

Dakota Johnson as Anne Elliot, Izuka Hoyle as Henrietta Musgrove, Nia Towle as Louisa Musgrove and Mia McKenna-Bruce as Mary Elliot in Persuasionon Netflix on July 15.Photo: Nick Wall / Courtesy of Netflix

When the first trailer for the new adaptation of Jane Austen’s beloved latest novel, Persuasion, debuted in June, it sent the internet into a wave with its inclusion of Flea bag– stylistic asides and intentionally ahistorical costumes. vogue was the first to get the scoop on the new version of the film about Regency England. “With period pieces, I’m always interested in the connection between then and now,” said director, Carrie Cracknell. vogue in June. “I think period films often teach you as much about when they were made as when they are reproduced, in one way or another.” So what are you waiting for? Come to your own conclusions after watching this weekend.

Persuasion is streaming on Netflix now.

Both sides of the blade

Grégoire Colin as François and Juliette Binoche as Sara in Both sides of the blade.Photo: Courtesy of Curiosa Films

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French fashion

French Ceva Logistics acquires Spedag Interfreight

As part of its growth plan, the French Ceva Logistics has finalized the acquisition of Spedag Interfreight, an expert in international freight transport covering several countries in East Africa. The announcement comes after all customary closing conditions have been finalized, including obtaining regulatory approvals from relevant authorities.

Ceva acquired the logistics entity from the M+R Spedag group, a family-owned transport and logistics company headquartered in Switzerland. Spedag Interfreight is one of the most capable and reliable logistics providers in East Africa with dedicated industry teams with leading expertise in relevant vertical markets including energy and infrastructure, aid and relief, oil and gas and raw materials. Approximately 400 employees across 24 locations in Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda and South Sudan joined Ceva following the closing of the transaction, Ceva said in a press release.

Ceva remains committed to a “think global, act local” growth strategy by adding Spedag Interfreight’s local market understanding to Ceva’s premier global network. The acquisition strengthens Ceva’s end-to-end global logistics capabilities. Ceva Logistics is now present in 44 African countries.

As part of its growth plan, the French Ceva Logistics has announced that it has completed the acquisition of Spedag Interfreight, an expert in international freight transport covering several countries in East Africa. The announcement comes after all customary closing conditions have been finalized, including obtaining regulatory approvals from relevant authorities.

The company’s ambition is to make the African market a significant part of its turnover by 2025, and Spedag Interfreight will open up new opportunities for East Africa’s growth potential. For example, Kenya acts as a key maritime gateway for East Africa. Thanks to a recent expansion and modernization project, the port of Mombasa is expected to carry over 1.7 million TEUs in 2023. The Kenya Ports Authority expects the port to handle 47 million tonnes of cargo by 2032, an increase of 57% over current levels.

Ceva continues to implement its strategic growth plan under the vision of the CMA CGM group. With the support of the group, Ceva welcomed more than 20,000 new employees thanks to the acquisitions of the former commerce and lifecycle services business of Ingram Micro and Colis Privé, France’s leading private last mile provider.

In addition, the CMA CGM group announced in April that it had signed an agreement to acquire nearly 100% of the capital of GEFCO, European leader in automotive logistics and international expert in multimodal supply chain solutions. The European Commission has authorized the group to immediately acquire the capital of GEFCO, pending final approval.

“With the addition of Spedag Interfreight in East Africa, we continue to execute key regional initiatives in our strategic growth plan. This acquisition is a perfect continuation of our organic growth and M&A activity in Africa over the past two years, as well as the recent acquisitions of Ingram Micro CLS and Colis Privé. Our global reach allows us to offer a wide range of responsive logistics solutions thanks to our experienced local teams”, Mathieu Friedberg, CEO, Cevasaid.

Fibre2Fashion Information Desk (GK)

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French fashion

Before Our Homes Got Smart: 7 Vintage Appliances Reminiscent of a Bygone Era

Written by Jacopo Prisco, CNN

Dutch designer Jaro Gielens’ basement is a sight to behold: the 1,000 square foot space has been converted into a vault for one of the world’s largest collections of small appliances from the 1960s to the 1990s – with mostly items in mint- condition. A niche activity, you might think, but together these objects hold stories that go far beyond the walls of one’s home.

“A unique fact is that all items are complete with original packaging,” he said in an email interview. “The images and graphics on the box best illustrate how these products were presented and marketed, and often indicate which period the product originated from.”

The collection now has 1,370 references, covering all product categories except vacuum cleaners and microwave ovens. The largest group represented is coffee makers, followed by hair dryers, blenders and dental appliances. Some of the most iconic items are featured in the new collector’s book, “Sweet electronics.”

Gadgets speak to a very different era of product design that coincided with new consumer behaviors and needs.

Unlike the expected obsolescence associated with today’s devices, these older models were built to last – Gielens uses some of them and says many still work as intended to this day. This fits with one of the great design principles promulgated in the late 1970s by Dieter Rams, the influential designer whose work at Braun was often praised by former Apple design director Jony Ive. Good design, Rams said, meant making products that were useful, understandable, durable and environmentally friendly.

At the same time, according to Gielens, the introduction of new materials has allowed manufacturers to offer more products. “New and better types of plastics and smaller electrical components have helped designers make devices for all types of tasks. And changes in lifestyle, hobbies and fashion have demanded and provided opportunities for these new devices,” he said.

Remarkably, he only started the collection five years ago. Since there was very little information available on many of the products he found, he decided to create a online catalog which includes them all.

His book contains a selection of around 100 objects from the cache, all filled with promise for a much improved, efficient or glamorous home life, dominated by curved lines and bright colors – beautiful relics of a simpler world. and more carefree.

Below, the collector shared a few of his favorite things.

Dame Braun Luftkissen HLH 1

“Perhaps the best example of a ‘Soft Electronics’ product. A revolutionary design combined with a completely new form of use: hands-free hair drying. The transparent helmet gives it a very futuristic look. This design was copied by almost all other manufacturers in the second half of the 1970s.”

(Picture above)

Bosch coffee maker K12

Bosch Kaffeemühle K12. Credit: Jaro Gielens/Soft Electronics/gestalten

“In my opinion, the perfect coffee grinder for filter coffee. You can grind the coffee directly in a filter holder which can be placed under the grinder. The design has a very elegant geometry with the large transparent cylinder integrated into the shape otherwise more rectangular from the base.”

Philips Ladyshave HP 2111

The Philips Ladyshave HP 2111.

The Philips Ladyshave HP 2111. Credit: Studio Sucrow/Soft Electronics/Gestalten

“Philips has sold tens of millions of women’s cosmetic shavers worldwide. They were six years ahead of Braun with this new product, having been competitors to men’s electric shavers for a few years already. The design of the HP 2111 is the result of a major design harmonization project with Philips in the mid-1970s. Fun fact: all Ladyshavers were produced in Philips factories in Austria (instead of the Netherlands).

SEB Filter Coffee Maker

SEB Filter coffee maker.

SEB Filter coffee maker. Credit: Studio Sucrow/Soft Electronics/Gestalten

“The first device with an anti-drip mechanism. Many manufacturers would eventually add this feature, but they were all trying to solve it differently. The design shows how small French manufacturers were catching up in terms of production quality. The large colored plastic and transparent plastic parts are all of very high quality.And SEB has succeeded in developing a unique style for its products.

Kenwood Deluxe Cheffettte

Kenwood Cheffette de Luxe.

Kenwood Cheffette de Luxe. Credit: Jaro Gielens/Soft Electronics/gestalten

“There have been several Kenwood Chefette mixers over the years, and they’re still sold today. But this really is the best version: in beige and country brown, with the updated octagonal shape. more modernist than you might wish.”

Philips BOX 2 HR 2010

Philips BOX 2 HR 2010.

Philips BOX 2 HR 2010. Credit: Studio Sucrow/Soft Electronics/Gestalten

“At the beginning of the 1980s, Philips developed a whole product line: the Box series. All versions were based on two main sections: a foldable stand and a motor module. It was a real transformer-type product, multifunctional and The largest and most complete version would make a complete kitchen machine, with many add-ons and even a custom storage cabinet.Unfortunately the whole series was discontinued after just one year.

Braun 550

The cover of "Sweet electronics" by gestalten and Jaro Gielens presents the Braun 550 hair dryer.

The cover of “Soft Electronics” by gestalten and Jaro Gielens presents the Braun 550 hair dryer. Credit: Studio Sucrow/Jaro Gielens/Soft Electronics/gestalten

“Hairdryers of the mid-1970s were much smaller, and the cord storage in the handle is a fine example of preparing these appliances as travel accessories. The shape is unique as it is perfectly rounded and completely free of surfaces flat or united.”

“Soft Electronics” by Jaro Gielens is published by gestalten.

Top image caption: The Lady Braun Luftkissen HLH 1.

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French fashion

The Russian alternative to McDonald’s in the face of the shortage of fries

The recently opened Russian alternative to McDonald’s – which left the country in May because of Russia’s war in Ukraine – is both a fast-food chain and a currency in Moscow’s propaganda campaigns.

In a shortage forged by symbolism, Vkusno i Tochka, which translates to “Tasty and that’s it”, is limiting the sale of fries this summer because it is unable to stock up on potatoes in quantity sufficient, the company told Russian news agency Tass Friday.

The Russian franchise said it was running out of country-style potatoes on the menu, its thicker cousin the Americanized fry, due to supply chain disruptions caused in part by war and Western sanctions.

The fast-food chain, which opened archless in June, said it generally seeks domestic sources for its products. But a poor potato harvest last year left Russia with a limited supply, Vkusno i Tochka told Tass, and the company was unable to fill the void with starch imports. .

Vkusno i Tochka said potatoes will fully return to its menu this fall, after the next harvest. Other “major players” in the market are facing similar difficulties, the company told Tass.

On Telegram, however, the Russian Ministry of Agriculture denied the news of a shortage of potatoes, The BBC reported.

Moscow’s former McDonald’s reopens without Big Macs

Countries from Japan to Kenya have reported potato and chip shortages in recent months, also citing supply chain and environmental factors.

But Vkusno i Tochka’s burger and fries were also meant to be a token of Russian self-reliance, forged in the middle of the output of more than 1,000 companiesincluding McDonald’s, and series of Western sanctions designed to punish and isolate Russia for its war in Ukraine.

McDonald’s is looking to sell a Russian company that is ‘no longer tenable’

By the time Moscow invaded on February 24, McDonald’s employed approximately 62,000 people in 850 communities across Russia, according to a statement from the company.

Nearly two weeks after the war began, on March 8, the Chicago-based franchise temporarily suspended operations in Russia. The $180.8 billion company said it would continue to pay the salaries of Russian and Ukrainian employees and pledged to send aid to the latter.

In the third month of the war, McDonald’s general manager Chris Kempczinski declared that the company was leaving Russia altogether. It was “no longer financially tenable” to operate and “impossible to ignore the humanitarian crisis caused by the war in Ukraine”, he said in a statement.

McDonald’s decision in mid-May to pull out of Russia marked the first time the 40,000+ store franchise has left a major international market.

After more than three decades of investment, it only took a few days for McDonald’s announce that he had reached an agreement with a Russian licensee. Alexander Govor, who previously ran 25 McDonald’s branches in Siberia, has agreed to buy the fast food chain’s portfolio and run the stores under a new brand.

McDonald’s is closing in Russia. His first restaurant in the USSR caused a sensation.

Vkusno i Tochka opened its first 15 locations in Moscow’s former McDonald’s restaurants in mid-June. Much of the menu has remained the same, minus the hallmark of the American franchise “Mc” and “Mac”. At the end of the month, the company said Tass it had opened 142 branches and aimed to reach 1,000.

Back when McDonald’s founding branch opened near the Kremlin in February 1990, thousands of Muscovites lined up for their first taste of capitalism in the final months of the Soviet Union, The Post reported. . The 900-seat restaurant was the franchise’s largest at the time.

Advertisements on a recently opened commercial TV channel urged, “If you can’t go to America, come to McDonald’s in Moscow.”

Annabelle Chapman contributed reporting from Luxembourg.

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French fashion

Hrithik Roshan takes his girlfriend Saba Azad on a ZNMD-style scenic drive in France

Saba Azad, Hrithik Roshan

Even though Hrithik Roshan and Saba Azad haven’t made an official announcement regarding their romantic relationship, the duo haven’t been shy about pda on social media as well as in real life.

Rumors of the two first surfaced in February this year when they were spotted out to dinner in Mumbai. Since then, the lovebirds have made several appearances together in addition to displaying their affection for each other on social networks.

Hrithik and Saba turned heads when they went hand in hand to Karan Johar’s 50th birthday party, which was attended by the who’s who of Bollywood. And now the two B-Town stars have flown off to Europe for a romantic getaway.

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Hrithik Roshan parties with ex-wife Sussanne Khan and beau Arslan Goni in LA – see pic

Hrithik Roshan parties with his ex-wife Sussanne Khan and beau Arslan Goni in Los Angeles – see photo

Giving a glimpse of their vacation, Saba shared photos and videos on her Instagram. She recently dropped a clip of their long drive they took on the scenic roads of France. Saba’s caption read, “That’s how it is!!”

Although their faces are not visible in the video, we can see Hrithik in the driver’s seat as he takes off his hat when Saba points the camera at him.

Watch the video here –

As expected, it didn’t take much longer for Saba’s aesthetic video to go viral. Fans, who have been shipping Hrithik and Saba together for a while now, flooded the comments section with their messages. The major shelled clip Zindagi Na Milegi Dobara the vibes and netizens have certainly noticed.

“Thank you for sharing these moments…wish you both all the happiness and love,” one social media user wrote while another said, “Znmd vibes.”

Earlier, Saba had shared a candid photo of herself clicked by Hrithik, from Paris. “Not a selfie, not my coffee: Image by @hrithikroshan,” she wrote.

Meanwhile, on the labor front, Hrithik will soon be seen in Vikram Veda with Saif Ali Khan. The superstar also has Fighter opposite Deepika Padukone in her kitty.

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French fashion

A Lesson in Paris Couture Party Dressing at Lauren Santo Domingo’s Fête for Giambattista Valli

Paris Haute Couture took a lesson in evening wear, from table tops to crop tops, from Lauren Santo Domingo last night. The co-founder and brand director of Moda Operandi, already infamous for her guest lists, hosted cocktail parties alongside Giambattista Valli (and with the help of Digame Events) to celebrate the designer’s exclusive collection in Moda within the Gismondi Gallery. Inside the three-level space that’s usually a retreat if you know you know the city, Regny & Pidansat Champagne and lively conversation flowed as attendees dove inside to witness what Valli described as “casual intimate dining” settings that seemed to reflect the week’s luxurious dreams and cool personalities.

“At one point, I heard seven different languages ​​around me,” Santo Domingo said of the international crowd that Couture Week made possible. Guests of the evening, including Marie-Chantal Crown Princess of Greece and Olympia of Greece, Korlan Madi, Olivia Palermo, Raf Reyes, Jessica Aidi, Ivy Getty and Bianca Brandolini, ranged from fashion and art insiders to talented emerging and close friends. Giambattista Valli’s Santo Domingo tweed ensemble for the evening comes from Brandolini’s own closet – or rather the body – after the model (who closed Valli’s show this week in a candy pink confection) arrived at her 4th of July evening by wearing it. And for evenings like this, “when the ball gown is too much, we have a silver oyster shooterjoked Santo Domingo of the dishes prepared in collaboration with Jean-Paul Vaugoin scattered across the large table set for six (and surrounded by more) alongside roses and peonies sourced from Natur’Elle and Valli himself.

“The idea is to be in the countryside, and the decor you’re going to see on the tables is almost created by nature itself – there’s wind on the pergola and all these flowers falling and insects and butterflies on the table,” Valli said of his vision for the large painting, nodding to a smaller one-on-one frame draped in marigolds by Louis Castor of Castor Fleuriste which depicted the encounter when he and Santo Domingo decided to spend the next three years researching artists and designers across the globe to produce each piece. “It all started when Lauren messaged me on Instagram,” said Kenza Echouafn from Santo Domingo, spotting sheets made by her Moroccan homewares brand Atelier Houria Tazi. The family studio employs many of the same female makers his mother began working with nearly 40 years ago (their craftsmanship emerges in the collection in intricate ways embroidered sheets).

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French fashion

When the Tsarinas ruled the fashion front row

Around this time, just over a decade ago, something happened in fashion that was as rare and unexpected as the sight of Kate Moss in a tutu.

The front row of couture shows, that rarefied tableau that often seems preserved in amber, underwent a kind of metamorphosis seemingly overnight. A group of young women materialized en masse, with a magnetic combination of beauty, charm, wealth and wardrobe that sent the fashion world into a frenzy. The fact that they emerged from Russia, once seen as something of a fashion wasteland and then a flashy upstart, has made them irresistible.

“The Tsarinas are back”, headlined the New York Times, shortly after a Style.com history called them the new “Russian Federation”.

“They broke the stereotype of Russia,” said Robert Burke, founder of an eponymous luxury consultancy.

Also known as Russian fashion mafiathe Russian fashion pack and the fashion russian royal family, they were a rotating group that included designer Vika Gazinskaya as well as model and association founder Natalia Vodianova, but with a core of fashion editor and entrepreneur Miroslava Duma; Elena Perminova, a model with a Cinderella story; and Ulyana Sergeenko, designer.

All were linked by their quirky personal taste, a tendency to change clothes several times a day, and their friendliness and wealth as a photographer. And they were following in the footsteps of Dasha Zhukova, a social figure and global art and magazine entrepreneur.

Their profiles have increased with the advent of street style and Instagram and the post-Glasnost emergence of Russia as a thriving market. Later, they built their own strongholds and brands based on their fashion fame. They were eye-catching bridges between Russia and the world.

As Karin Winroth, associate professor of business at Södertörn University in Sweden, wrote in the scientific journal Baltic worlds“They weren’t just seen as role models and fashion inspirations: they were also seen as ambassadors of a new Russia. Their popularity has put Russia on the map as a country offering fashionable inspiration.

At least until February, when Vladimir Putin invaded Ukraine and those bridges started to look very flimsy – along with how fashion itself can be a shortcut to acceptance, rippling through- beyond individuals to affect perception in the world at large.

Makeovers, after all, are not limited to people.

“People use fashion and taste to rehabilitate themselves or to empower a larger project like a profession or a country,” said Sophia Rosenfeld, a history professor at the University of Pennsylvania and author of “Democracy and Truth: A short story”. “To whitewash oneself or a national culture or set of business practices.”

Think of it as the theory of transitive properties of taste and skill—qualities that suggest shared value systems that transcend borders and connect worldviews—in practice.

It was true, Ms. Rosenfeld said, as long ago as Empress Josephine, who “helped bolster the legitimacy of Napoleon and the regime by transforming herself into a patron of French fashion and design and becoming a icon for countries all over Europe.”

Ditto the robber barons of the Golden Age and women like Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt, whose philanthropy, fashion and taste catapulted them to the center of society. Ditto the current Qatari royal family, which created the Fashion Trust Arabia award in 2018 under the aegis of Sheikha Moza bint Nasser and Sheikha Al-Mayassa bint Hamad Al-Thani, attracting Pierpaolo Piccioli, Olivier Rousteing and Naomi Campbell (among others ) in the Gulf to try to change the image of the region.

Although the arrival of Russians on the fashion scene was not necessarily a strategic decision – it was probably partly a question of creating their own identity – there is no doubt that the effects of their presence created a halo effect around their country of origin.

They carried out a very specific, fashion-based form of outreach, just as other members of the elite built museums, bought football clubs, basketball clubs and international media properties, realizing early on that fitting into the new image economy could mean “having doors open to them,” said Tommy Ton, who met Ms Perminova through Ms Duma, whom he had met through the intermediary of Vika Gazinskaya, and who, as a street photographer for Style.com, was responsible for building her myth. .

“There are social and cultural aspects to fashion that are inseparable from the livelihoods of brands,” Burke said, referring to the fact that fashion brands underwrite galas and art exhibitions, premieres of films and philanthropic events as well as dress the participants in a kind of virtuous circle of Instagram access and opportunities.

As their audience grew, designers began to see them as potential conduits to the new Russia, a market marked by Goldman Sachs in 2009 as a key driver of “global consumption” and for which, Ms. Winroth wrote, “it was crucial for the Western fashion industry to have the right Russian mediators”.

The Russian fashion pack, she wrote, was “perfect”. Ms. Perminova and Ms. Duma co-starred in a Ferragamo advertising campaign. Ms. Duma has modeled for Louis Vuitton and Roger Vivier.

“They knew how to connect with people,” Burke said. “They represented style, sophistication, traveled very well and had a lot of buying power. They were the new face of what people thought Russia stood for.

Their stories were complicated by just one thing: the fact that when they burst onto the scene, Ms. Duma and Co. were all married to oligarchs or male neighbors of oligarchs.

Ms. Duma, born in Siberia and whose father was a senator of the Russian Federation from 2004 to 2011 (while also being the head of the Ukrainian diaspora in Russia from 2005 to 2012; the family is of Ukrainian origin), to Aleksey Mikheev, whose father, Alexander Mikheev, is the Managing Director of Rosoboronexport, the Russian state-controlled arms exporter (currently the list of sanctioned persons by the United States, Britain, European Union and Canada). Ms Perminova to Alexander Lebedev, former KGB agent, banker and media mogul (currently on the Canadian sanctions list) who she met after his arrest for drug trafficking when he was 16, and Mr Lebedev, then 44 and a member of the Duma, stepped in after being contacted by his father. And Ms Sergeenko, who grew up in Kazakhstan when it was part of the USSR and later moved to Moscow, to insurance billionaire Danil Khachaturov, the former chairman of Rosgosstrakh.

Not that most people in Paris thought of those implications, as the husbands were almost never around.

“I met Elena Perminova’s husband once,” Mr Ton said. “In general, they did not travel with their husbands. Even when I went to Moscow Fashion Week and went to their house, I rarely met the husband.

Soon they turned their presence in fashion into mini-fiefdoms. In 2011, Ms. Duma, who holds a master’s degree in international business from the Moscow State Institute of International Relations but started her career as an editor at Harper’s Bazaar Russia, opened a digital media platform called Buro 24/7 which has grown to have offices. in 12 countries. She later ditched it and, positioning herself as a tech and sustainability guru, started a consulting and investment company called Future Tech Lab that focused on materials science and biotechnology and co-founded the materials science and responsible fashion brand Pangaia. (In 2018, she was named Young Global Leader at the World Economic Forum.)

Ulyana Sergeenko has gone from the front row to the backstage, opening her own couture brand focused on Russian craft techniques and qualifying for the official couture calendar among “guest members”. Ms. Perminova opened Len & Gretchkaa bakery that offers organic and gluten-free vegan breads, in Moscow and London (where Mr. Lebedev hosted the annual gala of the Raisa Gorbachev Foundation at his home on the grounds of Hampton Court Palace, and his eldest son is a member of the House of Lords).

There have been issues along the way, including the cancellation of Ms. Duma and Ms. Sergeenko by the fashion world after an Instagram scandal involving a racial slur in 2018, and a false report which made the rounds later that year with unsubstantiated allegations against Ms. Duma (followed by further reports on Ms. Vodianova and Ms. Zuhkova) from a group calling itself kyiv Fashion Resistance. And Mrs. Duma’s surprise appearance in the Mueller Report in 2019, where she was identified as “a contact of Ivanka Trump from the fashion industry” who had “passed on invitations” to the St. Petersburg International Economic Forum for Mrs. Trump and Donald J. Trump in 2015.

Yet their Instagram followings continued to grow – for 444,000 for Mrs Sergeenko, 1.8 million for Mrs. Duma and 2.5 million for Ms. Perminova. Although the titles didn’t reflect their actual careers, they continued to be referred to as “influencers” and “It girls,” a reflection of how the world that still looked at them once saw them.

Today, although Ms. Sergeenko and Ms. Duma are divorced, and both Ms. Duma and Ms. Perminova posted black squares in response to the invasion of Ukraine, their history has made them almost dark. Many designers who have adopted them are reluctant to talk about them.

Ms Duma, who resigned as a director of the Pangaia company in 2020 (she continues to make investments through Future Tech Lab), deleted her Instagram feed earlier this year. Ms Sergeenko is not on the couture calendar and her label hasn’t released anything since February. Rumors abound that they have all been “recalled” to Russia. They do not respond to requests for comment and direct messages.

These are, say friends who don’t want to be identified because they’re worried about the Kremlin’s reaction, fearing their old profiles will attract unwanted attention. They risk being branded traitors if they speak out, or seen as accomplices by an industry that has been quick to declare its allegiance to Ukraine if they remain silent.

Stuck on the bridges they once built like new iron curtain goes down and gives everything a new look.


Valeriya Safronova contributed reporting.

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French fashion

Peter Brook, British theater legend based in France, dies aged 97

France-based British director Peter Brook, who revolutionized the stage with sweeping interpretations of the classics before bringing drama back to its simplest roots, has died aged 97, a source said on Sunday.

Brook, born in the United Kingdom but living in France for decades, died on Saturday, told AFP a source close to the director, who requested anonymity.

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He also gained fame for his iconic 1963 film version of the novel “Lord of the Flies” about school children who are marooned on an island and descend into savagery.

Brook rose to fame in the UK as a young director who put a radical, and sometimes bloody spin on the classics, including the works of Shakespeare, working with actors who would later become legends themselves.

But his methods underwent a gradual transformation after moving to France in the early 1970s, reducing theater to pure simplicity and often influenced by Eastern traditions.

“Peter Brook has given us the most beautiful silences in the theater, but this last silence is infinitely sad,” French Culture Minister Rima Abdul Malak said on Twitter.

“With him, the scene was brought back to its most vivid intensity. He bequeathed so much to us,” she added, saying he would “forever remain the soul” of the Bouffes du Nord theater in northern Paris, where her work was based.

Simon McBurney, founder and artistic director of London’s Theater de Complicite, who was heavily influenced by Brook’s methods, hailed him on Twitter as a “visionary, provocateur, prophet, trickster and friend”.

Read more: Theaters are turning to ‘Top Gun: Maverick’ to get moviegoers back in their seats

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French fashion

At a luxury blouse in India, obsessed with the smallest details

PUNJAB, India – Sunita Devi, an embroiderer at 100Hands, was working on a shirt, her stitching so beautiful it drew a compliment from this reporter. Mrs. Devi acknowledged him with a smile, before returning her attention to the task at hand.

Were these floral designs a nod to the commands of the Maharajahs who once ruled this state? Or was it regional phulkari embroidery (a form of cross stitch), made for a bridal trousseau and cherished for generations?

Neither, it turned out. Mrs. Devi was sewing a buttonhole with almost invisible stitches. Each takes 40 minutes and has over 100 stitches per inch; other shirt makers specializing in this type of garment would probably have 40 or 60. Each shirt takes up to 35 hours to make, and sewing aficionados who obsess over the finer details of a wrist, button-down or hand-stitched hem has described 100Hands shirts as some of the best in the world.

The scorching yellow fields of Punjab are not where you might expect to find master patternmakers, tailors, tailors and embroiderers making the rarefied menswear typically associated with Savile Row or the renowned blouses of France and Europe. ‘Italy. Yet in 100Hands’ spacious, well-lit production facilities on the outskirts of the northern Indian city famous for its sacred golden temple, that narrative is changing, one shirt at a time.

“More than eight years ago, we started with 20 artisans and five staff members,” said Akshat Jain, 40, who together with his wife, Varvara Jain, founded 100hands. “Today, we are 265 full-time employees. They also plan to expand further, with new space.

Mohammad Samiriddin, master pattern cutter, has been making shirts for over 45 years and has been with 100Hands since the beginning. “I could retire, but I have no desire to,” he said. Instead, he prefers to spend his days cutting precise patterns and training a new generation of artisans.

“He’s a true master of his craft, able to see how the nuances of a design need to be adapted to suit a client perfectly,” said Ms Jain, 38.

Paul Fournier, contributor to The rakea men’s style magazine in London, describes itself as “a simple craftsman and tailor who has tried quite a few designers”.

“Obviously craftsmanship isn’t the only factor, and fit is paramount,” Fournier said. “A beautiful, ill-fitting garment does not make anyone beautiful.”

Simon Crompton, who writes about classic tailoring for the Permanent styling website, said what makes 100Hands unique is the amount of handwork that goes into each shirt.

“Handmade shirting skills died out in northern Italy, France and the UK,” he said. “There is still some hand tailoring in Naples, but the vast majority is not at the same level as 100Hands.”

He added that these skills don’t stop at decorative buttonholes. They also refer to collars and cuffs, crucial functional aspects of shirts that determine a good fit, and are best made when initially cut and sewn on a hoop by hand rather than by machine. Shirts cost between $345 and $450 and more depending on whether the shirt is personalized and the extra handwork in certain details.

The founders of 100Hands are based in Amsterdam. Mr. Jain’s family has owned a cotton milling and yarn trading business in Punjab for over 160 years, and it was they who pioneered the idea of ​​their own shirt-making business. The Jains used to work in an investment bank in the Netherlands, but gave up their high-flying career.

“There were two options,” Mr Jain said. “Make a generic quality product and compete on price, or make something so wonderful that the label ‘where it’s made’ is irrelevant.” Little did they know that the “made in” label was sometimes more important than the product itself, he said. “We were just focused on creating something special. So knowing less about the competition turned out to be a good thing here.

Mark Cho, the founder of the Armory Men’s stores in New York and Hong Kong, which sell 100Hands shirts, noted that other countries had much more experience in this particular shirtmaking craft and in marketing it. “British, Italian and French clothing has had decades, if not a century, of respect and admiration around the world, while Indian brands simply don’t have that history.” he said.

He added: “It’s a shame because if you go back further to the 1700s and 1800s, India was one of the largest producers of cotton and cotton cloth, both in terms of quantity and quality. Moreover, fine manual work has been part of its culture for a long, long time.

The Jains encountered prejudice, including a potential buyer who abruptly ended a call and unfollowed the company on Instagram (the ultimate modern affront) after learning that 100Hands made its shirts in India. There is a widespread perception that “Made in India” often means fast fashion supply chain practices including child labor and sweatshops.

Indeed, 100Hands is audited by Fair trade clothing, which is known for its team of independent experts in the country who not only measure working conditions, but also purchasing practices, a factory’s management systems and communication between workers and management. Ms. Jain said salaries at 100Hands are well above those mandated by the state and that employees receive benefits such as health insurance.

“Their work is good compared to anyone,” Mr. Cho said. “People will eventually realize that.”

But can a small Indian company compete with Savile Row, with French savoir-faire and Italian flair, with their historical histories and brand power? Many consumers cling to the idea of ​​European provenance, but there is also a feeling that things are falling apart and coming together in new formations.

“There’s a lot of snobbery about The Row and Britain in general, but they invented snobbery, after all, and they’re quite charming,” Mr Fournier said.

Savile Row persists as the epitome of menswear, tied to the exclusivity of bespoke work and ideas of English heritage. But many Savile Row legacy tailors have been taken over by Asian conglomerates or – in one case, a Belgium-based hedge fund – and some are expanding into ready-to-wear lines that go well beyond their mandate. bespoke suit initial.

Additionally, the pandemic has led some Savile Row tailors to close their shops, including the 140-year-old Kilgour, which now only works online. And rumors are circulating of a Marks & Spencer takeover of the 250-year-old man Gieves & Hawkes.

But 100Hands doesn’t just compete with Savile Row; it is also a partner. For six years, she has been supplying shirts to Chittleborough and Morgan that attract sectarian loyalty. “We’re just men’s tailors, and so is Akshat,” said Joe Morgan, one of the store’s founders.

But why doesn’t Chittleborough & Morgan make its own shirts?

Mr Morgan said it was a separate skill from tailoring, ‘so we specialize, as 100Hands do with their shirts’.

“Hand skills are different, machines and irons are different,” he said. “In tailoring, we abuse the fabric to mold it to a body that we create. It’s about illusion and manipulation of materials. Blouses don’t create a body but rather work with it. It’s a discipline more gentle.

“We are not a pompous company, we are just men’s tailors, and the same goes for 100Hands, there are no bells and whistles,” he added. “It’s just a very finely crafted garment.”

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French fashion

“There is a lot of excitement”: the Tour de France arrives in Denmark | Tour de France

VSbike lanes have been painted yellow, knitting enthusiasts have made a giant yellow jersey and preparations are underway for a flotilla of yellow-flagged boats. The ‘big yellow party’ comes to Denmark on July 1 when the country widely regarded as the world’s best for cyclists hosts the opening stage of the world’s biggest cycle race.

The Tour de France was originally scheduled to start in Copenhagen in 2021, but was moved to Brest in response to a Covid-related scheduling conflict with the European Championships.

The postponement of the Grand Depart from Copenhagen by a year was welcomed as allowing more time for planning and now, after the Covid closures, the organizers are hoping that their investment of 150 million Danish kroner (approximately 17.3 million sterling) will boost tourism.

“There’s a lot of excitement in the city,” said Sophie Hæstorp Andersen, cycling fan and mayor of Copenhagen, where a huge clock in the city’s main square counts down to July 1. “We are preparing for a big yellow party where everyone is invited,” Andersen said.

The King Christian X Bridge in Soenderborg covered in yellow fabric before the start of the 2022 Tour de France cycling race. Photography: Claus Fisker/Ritzau Scanpix/AFP/Getty Images

Denmark’s reputation as a cycling nirvana is well deserved. There are approximately 7,500 miles of cycle paths and cycle paths across the country and half of all Copenhagen residents commute by bicycle.

Cycling fans in Copenhagen will be able to try the Tour de France route for themselves on July 2, when professionals set off for stage two from Roskilde Cathedral, where Viking King Harald Bluetooth is believed to be buried. After a windswept sprint over the Great Belt Bridge, the course ends at Nyborg on the island of Funen.

The third and final Danish stage will begin on July 3 in the town of Vejle, known as the Kingdom of Cycling thanks to its alpine-quality climbs shaped by the Ice Age in an otherwise remarkably flat country.

The Grand Départ trophy of the Tour de France cycling race and various jerseys are on display at an exhibition inside the Danish Industry Building in Copenhagen, Denmark
The Grand Départ trophy and shirts on display at an exhibition inside the Danish Industry building in Copenhagen. Photography: Philip Davali/Ritzau Scanpix/AFP/Getty Images

The route will pass through the port of Vejle, with buildings designed by artist Olafur Eliasson, as well as the UNESCO World Heritage Site at Jelling, where Bluetooth raised the Jelling Stone in 965 CE, marking the unification of Denmark as a Christian nation. Cyclists will pass through Kolding, famous for its 750-year-old royal fortress, Koldinghus, as well as another Unesco World Heritage Site at Christiansfeld before finishing 113 miles later at Sønderborg.

A total of 5,000 volunteers will help keep the festivities going across the country, but the Municipality of Vejle has taken an interesting approach to boost engagement. “We wanted the community to feel like they owned the event instead of just commissioning projects,” said organizer Jacob Rasmussen, “so we created a DKK 3 million grant fund for innovative projects that celebrate cycling”.

Tour de France Vejle is run by an unassuming man in shorts named Lars Ulrich – a physiotherapist and cycling enthusiast who has spent his whole life explaining that he is not Metallica’s drummer.

Ulrich was tasked with getting non-cyclists excited about the race. “I thought to myself, ‘How can I make this event historic? How do I get him to be remembered for anything other than skintight lycra pants? “The Covid has separated us for so long that the Tour de France is an opportunity to reunite – I want everyone to be involved.

Residents of local hospices and care homes used 9,000 balls of yarn to knit a giant 600kg yellow jersey to be hoisted at the port.
Residents of local hospices and care homes knitted a giant yellow jersey to hoist at the port.

Sydbank employee Alex Slot Hansen has invested in 9,000 balls of yarn for residents of local hospices and care homes to knit a giant 600kg yellow jersey to hoist at the harbour. “I’ve had a lot of messages from caregivers saying this has been therapeutic for particular patients,” Hansen said.

Morten Teilmann-Jørgensen from the Viking Kings experience center invented “the Viking Biking Escape Box”. “You get in a box on a stationary bike and you see yourself on a screen,” Teilmann-Jørgensen said. “There are virtual ‘Vikings’ behind you, and when you start riding, they start chasing you.”

The Viking Escape Box
The Viking Escape Box Photography: handout

Restaurant owners and retailers are preparing for the city to double in size, with 100,000 visitors from around the world expected. Ulrich and his team focused on the importance of hospitality for local businesses and how to be a good host – something that doesn’t necessarily come naturally in a country that isn’t renowned for its culture of service.

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Maria Theresa Olsen of Café Bryg in Vejle hopes to defy expectations. “I try to think, ‘If I was a tourist, what would I want?’ and ‘how can I give a good impression of this city that I’m proud to call home?’ she said.

“The eyes of the world will be on us, so we want to give the best experience possible.”

The one element of the experience that no one can plan for is the weather, and Denmark’s unpredictable summers make relying on the sun unnecessary. “I check the forecast daily and keep my fingers crossed,” Hæstorp Andersen said, “but it will be what it will be.”

Ulrich takes a more optimistic approach: “It’s like we always say in Denmark: ‘there is no bad weather, just bad clothes'”.

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French fashion

21 things to love about Milan’s Salone del Mobile

Milan, June 2022: I am standing in a salmon pink room looking at a work by the late designer and architect Aldo Rossi. A Dalí-esque depiction of a giant coffee pot, perched against a conical-topped building between a horse skeleton and a lobster, it conveys in one stunning image both his explorations of memory and scale and a vision that makes no distinction between architecture and pattern. Another of his works shows the Duomo in Milan looking out of a sunny room window. It strikes a chord when seen in the Museo del Novecento, the museum facing the White Cathedral. Aldo could have designed the painting right there.

Creations by Aldo Rossi from 1960 to 1997 exhibited at the Museo del Novecento © Francesco Carlini

The Duomo is an old friend. I have been visiting Milan and its annual design festival for countless years. Earlier this month, however, my comeback felt like a homecoming. The sun was shining, the city was buzzing, and on every street corner were posters proclaiming: Design is Milano and Milano is Design.

Occasional Object cutlery by Virgil Abloh for Alessi, in the Alessi 100-001 exhibition at the Galleria Manzoni
Occasional Object cutlery by Virgil Abloh for Alessi, in the Alessi 100-001 exhibition at the Galleria Manzoni © Andrea Martiradonna

The catchy slogan was a reminder of how design has connected everything in this corner of the world. It is its cornerstone, the Fuorisalone having long played a role in the heritage and culture of Milan. Therefore, Rossi, star of the city’s design exhibition, has also been a constant companion of my stay, appearing at Alessithe takeover by Galleria Manzoni, marking the brand’s 100th anniversary (an unsurprising cameo given that its coffee makers are among the brand’s design classics). The air of surrealism here was palpable: a shop turned into a curling rink, with kettles used like slide stones skimming the ice. Next to it, nutshells were smashed by Enzo Mari’s phallic Farfalla nutcracker: function combined with the trademark ironic humor.

At the event, CEO Alberto Alessi didn’t dwell on the past. He preferred to point the finger at app-enabled small appliances before making the big reveal: a new take on cutlery by the late Virgil Abloh, in collaboration with his London design studio Alaska Alaska, evoking childhood memories of Meccano cranes . It was a bittersweet testament to the designer’s prolific output. across town to Cassinaanother Abloh design connection was celebrated – modular “building blocks” capable of transforming into anything from benches to a side table.

Molteni&C Living Box storage system designed by Vincent Van Duysen

Molteni&C Living Box storage system designed by Vincent Van Duysen

The Molteni&C Dada Tivalì equipped kitchen, reinterpreted by Yabu Pushelberg

The Molteni&C Dada Tivalì equipped kitchen, reinterpreted by Yabu Pushelberg

At the museum of Molteni&C, a Rod Gilard-designed glass cube on the outskirts of town, Rossi returned. His tilted, gravity-defying Parigi chair was one of many designer collaborations the family business has commissioned over its 88-year history: treasures on display included a Gio Ponti desk, Luca Meda’s Primafila sofa and the Filo chair by Tobia Scarpa. Its archivist Peter Hefti reminded me of the brand’s own ties to design: founder Angelo Molteni was one of 13 entrepreneurs who created the Salone del Mobile in 1961 – which is now home to its current design stars. Back at Salone, I was one of the first to see the new Yoell chair and Vincent Van Duysen’s Living Box, a storage system consisting of a neat box inside an open unit offering endless uses, and chameleon when designed in different materials. . Yabu Pushelberg’s reinterpretation of his classic Dada Tivalì fitted kitchen, meanwhile, hid slabs of marble behind two giant doors.

One of Luke Edward Hall's Return to Arcadia designs for fabric house Rubelli

One of Luke Edward Hall’s Return to Arcadia designs for fabric house Rubelli

The next three days were a maelstrom of espresso-fueled curtain drops and champagne corks. Trends – or anti-trends, as some of us called them – emerged. The new rule was to break the rules: to The DoubleJ, new jewel-toned Murano glass vases and tableware in contrasting prints for the upcoming holiday season were showcased among flowery dresses on Via Sant’Andrea, creating a joyous assault on the senses. The clashy-mashy style was also featured at Return to Arcadia, a collection for the fabric house Rubelli by British designer and FT columnist Luke Edward Hall.

Outdoor furniture like indoor furniture has continued to be the focus of modern furniture brands. France added new pieces to its Boundless Living collection, presented alongside a series of leather objects created with the Acqua di Parma and Loro Piana fabrics launched last year. Fornasetti‘s garden furniture, punctuated with bold pops of color and featuring the whimsical patterns long associated with the Italian design maestro, was a sight to behold.

Fornasetti garden furniture – Capitellum chair from the Jardin des Natures Possibles and Ara Solis tables
Fornasetti garden furniture – Capitellum chair from the Jardin des Natures Possibles and Ara Solis tables

Young creatives and design beginners have taken over the city’s galleries and abandoned spaces. studiopepe‘s immersive installation, located in the industrial wasteland that is Baranzate Ateliers, showcased a collection of furniture and objects with Galerie Philia, marking the studio’s debut in collectible design. Dimore Studio transformed his gallery into the smoky exhibition of another Forgotten world, and Nike was in town with an eco-vision, taking over the 29th-floor Eden Skyhouse on Via Vittor Pisani. Craftsmanship and sustainability have been intertwined in visions for the future, merging brilliantly into Loewethe exhibition Weave, Restore, Renew – discovery of leather, Coroza straw and the weaving of Jiseung paper.

Studiopepe's Temenos installation of collectible design with Galerie Philia
Temenos installation by Studiopepe of collectable design with Galerie Philia © Maison Mouton Noir, Courtesy of Galerie Philia
The Loewe Weave, Restore, Renew exhibition
The Loewe Weaving, Restoring, Renewing exhibition © Ilaria Orsini

Fashion has taken over the festival – its laser focus on interiors a clear statement of intent. Few could fail to notice the new additions of Fendi and Dolce & Gabbana megastores to the city, the two lifestyle hotspots for fashionable living. Fendi showed off new designs, including a jaw-dropping bar cabinet evoking its signature Pequin stripes in rich veneers. Among its star collaborators was Swiss designer trio Atelier Oï, who were in town to oversee their Fendi creations in situ, including their domed Metropolis table. The trio also designed new pieces for Louis Vuitton, previewed at the French fashion house’s colorful installation on Via Bagutta. His Belt Lounge Chair, Belt Bar Stool and Belt Side Stool featured seats made from Vuitton leather straps held in place by brass buckles, reminiscent of those used on the house’s bags.

The Fendi Casa Apartment

The Fendi Casa Apartment

The Louis Vuitton facility
The Louis Vuitton facility
The Miss Dior chair by Philippe Starck for Dior Maison, a new version of the Medallion chair

The Miss Dior chair by Philippe Starck for Dior Maison, a new version of the Medallion chair

Milan has become a podium: Aquazzura launched its first casa collection in the form of tableware suffocated by flora and fauna; Dior House collaborated with Philippe Starck, who reinvented his Médaillon chair – dramatically revealed at the show in an underground black box under dancing spotlights; and Ralph Lauren hosted the fanciest party in Milan, recreating his vision of life in a grand palace on Via San Barnaba. Among British designers coming out, Stella McCartney has revealed her first-ever interior partnerships with the Italian design brand B&B Italy and heritage british wallpaper house cole and sonwhile Paul Smith launched sofas, armchairs and coffee tables with the company FromPaduaall shaded with various Pantone tones.

Aquazzura's first casa <a class=collection” srcset=”https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F1e6f8478-ef3c-4d9c-8a52-8368e556c57c.jpg?dpr=1&fit=scale-down&quality=highest&source=next&width=700 1x, https://www.ft.com/__origami/service/image/v2/images/raw/https%3A%2F%2Fd1e00ek4ebabms.cloudfront.net%2Fproduction%2F1e6f8478-ef3c-4d9c-8a52-8368e556c57c.jpg?dpr=2&fit=scale-down&quality=medium&source=next&width=700 2x”/>
Aquazzura’s first casa collection

Palazzo Serbelloni – the site of Tom Dixon's Twenty exhibition

Palazzo Serbelloni – the site of Tom Dixon’s Twenty exhibition

Tom Dixon's Press Metal lights and Mirror Ball vertical chandelier

Tom Dixon’s Press Metal lights and Mirror Ball vertical chandelier

show faithful Tom Dixon was also in a reflective mood, looking back at a body of work presented as sculptures in collaboration with Sotheby’s at the neoclassical Palazzo Serbelloni, before launching her new collection of limited-edition accessories and fragrances for the 20th anniversary. What emerged was no longer just a celebration of furniture, but an event savoring broader conversations about the importance of design – a medium touching all aspects of life, from the outline of a pitchfork to the sweep of a car or the arch of a building. Aldo Rossi would have been impressed.

The Aldo Rossi exhibition runs until October 2 at Novecento Museum in Milan

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French fashion

French MP prosecuted for allegedly adopting the name of an aristocratic family | France

A newly elected MP from Marine Le Pen’s far-right National Rally party has been sued by descendants of one of France’s oldest aristocratic families who accuse him of adding their name to his own.

Emmanuel Taché de la Pagerie, 47, was one of dozens of National Rally deputies elected to the National Assembly on Sunday, with his official identity card verified and approved by local authorities in the southern city of Marseille.

Born Emmanuel Taché in the working-class Paris suburb of Montreuil, he told Le Monde newspaper this week that he added ‘de la Pagerie’ to his passport 30 years ago, when he worked in fashion and broadcasting before to enter politics.

Emmanuel Taché de la Pagerie with the leader of the National Rally Marine Le Pen. Photography: Emmanuel Taché de la Pagerie/Facebook

“It is quite normal in the art and communication sectors to use a pseudonym or a first name. The only restriction is that you cannot pass it on to your children,” Taché de la Pagerie’s lawyer, Alexandre Varaut, said in a statement.

He said his client’s use of the name “has been common knowledge for several decades.”

The male line of Tascher of the Pagerie The family died in 1993, but three descendants sued the MP this week, alleging their historic name had been appropriated.

The most famous member of the family was Empress Josephine de Beauharnais, who married Napoleon Bonaparte in 1796. Her full name was Marie Josèphe Rose Tascher de La Pagerie.

Although not illegal under French law, the use of aristocratic surnames can be a tricky subject.

Critics of former President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing criticized his grandfather’s acquisition of the noble-sounding “de” (“de”) particle, although few ever did so for his compatriot Charles de Gaulle.

It was an unwelcome row for Taché de la Pagerie’s party days after it scored a major parliamentary breakthrough.

“We filed a complaint to protect the family name,” Frédéric Pichon, lawyer for the three women, told AFP, adding that a hearing date would be set for July 8.

They claim a symbolic euro in damages, and a fine of 500 euros per day if Emmanuel Taché continues to use their name.

“The fact that he is in the National Rally or La France insoumise or La République en Marche is not the problem,” he said, referring to the far left and centrists of President Emmanuel Macron. .

He says the aristocratic name is rare and notes “risk of confusion in the eyes of the public”, even though the Taché/Tascher spellings are different.

“My clients are from Normandy but live in Paris, and are the only heirs to bear this name since their father died in 1993 – and one of his last wishes was for his name to be protected,” Pichon said.

Emmanuel Taché de la Pagerie did not respond to requests for comment, but told Le Monde that as soon as he was elected, “I have no time to waste on this kind of thing”.

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French fashion

Bruno Pavlovsky of Chanel to take over as head of the French Fashion Federation – WWD

PARIS – Bruno Pavlovsky is about to be elected president of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode at its general assembly on July 1.

Pavlovsky, president of fashion and chairman of Chanel SAS, sits on the executive committee of France’s fashion governing body. Ralph Toledano, who had held the post since 2014, served three terms as head of the institution, making him ineligible for re-election.

Pavlovsky said that if he was confirmed in this position, he intended to continue the work of his predecessor, alongside executive chairman Pascal Morand, in a spirit of continuity.

While the coronavirus pandemic has prevented many fashion editors from travelling, the federation has partnered with data and insights firm Launchmetrics to pivot Paris Fashion Week to a digital showcase, later transitioning to a format hybrid combining physical and online events.

With 78 physical events out of a total of 84, the Parisian men’s shows, which take place from Tuesday to Sunday, confirm the strong comeback of physical events.

Chanel has championed Paris as the capital of creativity and capital of fashion, pushing for competitors to rally around Paris Fashion Week again, after a period that saw a number of big brands, including Saint Laurent , Balenciaga and Céline, split up to show on their own schedule.

The French luxury brand recently opened a hub of specialist workshops on the outskirts of the city, is sponsoring the renovation of the Grand Palais and has funded a new permanent exhibition space at the Palais Galliera, the Paris fashion museum.

SEE ALSO:

Ralph Toledano: why Paris is flourishing

Chanel celebrates the Craftsmanship Hub with Pharrell Williams and Sofia Coppola

Paris exhibition casts Coco Chanel in a new light

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French fashion

Jamie Foxx parties with friends in Saint-Tropez as he promotes liquor brand Brown Sugar Bourbon

Jamie Foxx parties with friends in Saint-Tropez as he promotes his Brown Sugar Bourbon liqueur brand

Jamie Foxx was spotted vacationing in the south of France with friends earlier this week.

The 54-year-old entertainer showed off his luxurious fashion sense as he strolled the beach in a wide-brimmed hat and silk shirt.

He later took a phone call from the balcony of his yacht and promoted his brand of whiskey on social media.

Vacation: Jamie Foxx was spotted vacationing in the south of France with friends earlier this week

During his day at the beach, the father-of-two teamed his button-up top with black skinny pants.

The stand-up comic accentuated her polished look with multiple flashy chains and pendants around her neck.

Along with his statement hat, he wore chic, lightly tinted sunglasses.

The actor sported a diamond-encrusted watch and a neatly trimmed goatee while trotting down gray water slides.

Stylish: The 54-year-old entertainer showed off his luxurious fashion sense as he strolled the beach in a wide-brimmed hat and silk shirt

Stylish: The 54-year-old entertainer showed off his luxurious fashion sense as he strolled the beach in a wide-brimmed hat and silk shirt

Downtime: He then took a phone call on the balcony of his yacht and promoted his brand of whiskey on social media

Downtime: He then took a phone call on the balcony of his yacht and promoted his brand of whiskey on social media

On another occasion, during his chic getaway, the singer-songwriter dressed up on a yacht.

The Oscar-winning actress donned a navy Gucci t-shirt with red Nike shorts.

He wore aviator-style sunglasses as he attended to his iPhone as he stood on the balcony.

Jamie pulled back the blinds at one point, squinting as he stood in the bright sunshine.

Quick chat: Jamie pulled back the blinds at one point, squinting as he stood in the bright sunshine

Quick chat: Jamie pulled back the blinds at one point, squinting as he stood in the bright sunshine

Businessman: Jamie took to Instagram on Friday and Saturday to tout his Brown Sugar Bourbon aka BSB spirit

Businessman: Jamie took to Instagram on Friday and Saturday to tout his Brown Sugar Bourbon aka BSB spirit

Jamie took to Instagram on Friday and Saturday to tout his Brown Sugar Bourbon, aka BSB, spirit.

In video content shared on the photo-sharing app, he partied the night away in a short-sleeved white shirt.

He was seen pouring drinks for attendees at an elegant event with waiters and dancers.

The businessman rocked two blingy necklaces with the initials ‘C’ and ‘A’ representing his two daughters, Corinne and Annalize.

Proud dad: The businessman rocked two blingy necklaces with the initials 'C' and 'A' representing his two daughters, Corinne and Annalize

Proud dad: The businessman rocked two blingy necklaces with the initials ‘C’ and ‘A’ representing his two daughters, Corinne and Annalize

The entrepreneur mentioned his hometown as he wrote in the caption, “From the south of #terrelltx to #suddelafrance.”

He then tagged his business page and added the tagline “#makeslifesweet”.

Taking to his Stories, he shared even more footage with his 14.6 million followers, including a photo of two B2B bottles.

They were set up in front of a beautiful sunset and a filled champagne flute.

Building his empire: The entrepreneur mentioned his hometown as he wrote in the caption:

Building his empire: The entrepreneur mentioned his hometown as he wrote in the caption: “From the south of #terrelltx to #suddelafrance”.

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French fashion

The Lake, SkyMed and more Canadian shows hitting screens soon

Summer is right around the corner and free time is starting to fill up – but for some that means scrolling and surfing new shows.

If you need inspiration, CBC News has rounded up some of the most anticipated Canadian releases to watch in 2022 and beyond.

Lake

Gavaris stretches out near the cabin in Amazon’s new series The Lake, which also stars Julia Stiles. (Amazon Studios)

The start of the summer season is Lake, a new Canadian comedy series filmed and set in the cottage country of Northern Ontario.

Created by Canadian Julian Doucet and starring Canadian actor Jordan Gavaris, the comedy follows Justin (Gavaris) as he returns home after breaking up with a longtime partner.

Upon returning, Justin discovers that his childhood cottage had been left to his half-sister Maisy-May (Julia Stiles), leading to a summer battle to claim ownership.

Lake begins streaming on Amazon Prime Video on June 17.

SkyMed

A new medical drama coming this year is CBC’s Sky Med.

Created by Toronto-based writer and producer Julie Puckrin, the new series features a young Canadian troupe.

Morgan Holmstrom can be seen next to a plane in CBC’s upcoming SkyMed show, which premieres July 10, 2022. The show follows nurses and pilots flying in healthcare to remote communities. (Pief Weyman/Paramount+)

The drama follows the lives of nurses and air ambulance pilots in northern Manitoba. From triumphs to heartbreaks, the show (which will also premiere in the United States on Paramount+) will offer viewers a glimpse into the realities of health care delivery in Indigenous communities in northern Canada.

SkyMed will be broadcast on CBC TV and available to stream on CBC Gem on July 10.

Pamela’s Garden of Eden

Canadian actress Pamela Anderson attends a news conference in Austria, February 27, 2019. Anderson announced on Wednesday that Netflix was creating a new documentary about her life. (Erwin Schériau/AFP/Getty Images)

Canadian actress, model and writer Pamela Anderson returns to her hometown for a new HGTV series: Pamela’s Garden of Eden.

The show follows the star as she renovates her late grandmother’s six-acre property on Vancouver Island.

Pamela’s Garden of Eden will air on HGTV in the fall of 2022.

Counterfeits

Jennifer Tong, left, and Emilija Baranac, right, stand against a city skyline in a scene from a new CBC Gem and Netflix series called Fakes. (David Astorga/CBC/Netflix)

Made in co-production with Netflix, David Turko Counterfeits tells the story of two teenage best friends as they accidentally build one of the largest fake ID empires in North America.

With more money than they can imagine, the two now navigate a new life of wealth and crime. The show features Canadian actors Emilija Baranac, Jennifer Tong and Richard Harmon.

Counterfeits will begin streaming on Netflix and CBC Gem in fall 2022.

play well

Acting Good is a new 10-part series co-created and starring actor and comedian Paul Rabliauskas, who is pictured here. (Radio Canada)

play well follows the story of Paul, an aboriginal man and witty comedian, who returns to his fictional home in Grouse Lake First Nation in Manitoba after his failed attempt to move to the big city.

The 10-part series is co-created and stars actor and comedian Paul Rabliauskas.

play well will air on CTV Comedy Channel in 2022.

Comedy Night with Rick Mercer

Rick Mercer speaks onstage at the Juno Awards in London, Ont., on March 17, 2019. (Frank Gunn/The Canadian Press)

Another comedy series to watch this year is Comedy night with Rick Mercer.

Each hour-long episode will feature stand-up routines from Mercer himself as well as a lineup of new Canadian comedians like Sophie Buddle, DJ Demers, Dakota Ray Hebert and more.

Comedy Night with Rick Mercer will air on CBC TV and air on CBC Gem in the fall of 2022.

One day we’ll all be dead

Canadian author Scaachi Koul’s national bestseller One day we’ll all be dead and none of this will matter has inspired a new comedy series on Crave. (Barbora-Simkova)

The national bestseller by Canadian author Scaachi Koul One day we’ll all be dead and none of this will matter inspired a new comedy series produced in Canada One day we’ll all be dead.

The 30-minute series, created by Lakna Edilima in collaboration with Koul, follows the story of a first-generation brunette woman facing pressure from her family and trying to pursue a career in journalism.

One day we’ll all be dead starts streaming on Crave in 2023.

Canada Drag Race: Canada Against the World

The new series Canada’s Drag Race: Canada vs. the World will feature Canadian drag queen Brooke Lynn Hytes, pictured here in a fabulous red dress, as a judge. (Getty Images)

The Queens of Canada have proven their success on the world stage, and now Canada is set to host a new series with the Canadian drag queen Brooke Lynn Hytes as a judge.

The six-episode battle will crown a “queen of the mother-pucking world” – and the cast will be revealed later this year.

The series will begin streaming on Crave in 2022.

BollySea

A new series called BollyWed follows the Singhs and their family fashion business. The Singh family is seen here outside their shop. (Rakesh Sidana)

Toronto’s iconic 37-year-old Little India bridal shop Chandan Fashion is heading to the screens.

A new series called BollySea follows the Singhs and their family fashion business.

BollySea will air on CBC TV and will be available to stream on CBC Gem in winter 2023.

shelved

Canadian actor and writer Anthony Q. Farrell, best known for his work on Overlord and the Underwoods and Officeis back with a new single-camera comedy titled shelved.

The show follows the workplace drama of the Jameson Public Library, a fictional Toronto library modeled after the library in the Parkdale neighborhood.

shelved currently has no air date but will be part of Bell Media’s 2022-2023 lineup.

Plan B

Plan Ban adapted French series created by Jean-François Asselin and Jacques Drolet, follows the story of a man who discovers his ability to time travel.

In the psychological drama, Philip (played by Canadian actor Patrick J. Adams), soon realizes that every choice has repercussions.

Plan B will air on CBC TV and air on CBC Gem in winter 2023.

red ketchup

The new animated series Red Ketchup is based on a popular 80s Quebec comic series and follows rogue FBI agent Steve (Red) Ketchup. (adult swimming)

Corus recently announced its second Canadian original series for Adult Swim.

The animated series red ketchup is based on a popular 80s Quebec comic series and follows rogue FBI agent Steve (Red) Ketchup.

red ketchup will premiere in French on Télétoon la nuit and in English on Adult Swim in 2023.

Other shows in production

Thunder Bay, a four-part docuseries based on the popular Canadaland podcast of the same name is currently in production. The investigative series is produced and hosted by award-winning Anishinaabe journalist and writer Ryan McMahon.

Casting has also begun for a new Canadian drama series that reimagines the classic Robin Hood story titled Robyn Hood. It will go into production in Toronto and Hamilton this summer.

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French fashion

The charm and swagger of waistcoats

Charlotte Rampling paired a masculine waistcoat with a long-sleeved shirt in 1974 © Mondadori via Getty Images

At a recent rural wedding in North Wales, I paired a pink waistcoat with matching trousers from French brand The Frankie Shop and was greeted with bewilderment. “It’s so great that they have female magicians now,” said another guest. “I see Ronnie O’Sullivan is on the guest list,” another joked. In my mind, I was channeling Charlotte Rampling from 1974, not the snooker player. But that’s the risk you take when you put on a vest. It’s all about context.

If I had been in the front row at a fashion show, rather than in a field, I might have elicited a warmer reception. The spring shows of Saint Laurent, Jacquemus, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and Burberry all featured cardigans. The same goes for the “gateway” at Nice airport, where a few weeks ago Marion Cotillard showed up at the Cannes Film Festival adopting the “chic passport control” dress code in a black waistcoat, jeans and giant sunglasses. And Palm Beach got the memo: Taking a page from Bianca Jagger’s playbook, Nicola Peltz wore an all-white Dior three-piece to her epic wedding rehearsal dinner to Brooklyn Beckham.

That said, women in vests are nothing new. If Marlene Dietrich, Janelle Monáe and Kate Moss are anything to go by, once you’ve discovered a zest for the vest, it’s got you covered for life. “There’s a lot of charm and swagger in such a small garment,” muses British designer Bella Freud. The Chrissie vest from her eponymous line is a recurring style named after singer Chrissie Hynde. “She wears a vest really well, in a warm, boyish and sexy way. When you feel like you’re blending into the wall, it’s a good thing to wear. Freud’s denim iteration proves popular to help customers stand out – in a good way.” Natasha Lyonne just wore it Saturday Night Live,” she says. “You can get a good jacket in any market. But a good cardigan that has a certain cut is harder to find.

Model Kate Moss wears a black hat, shorts and a black leather jacket.  She carries a cola bottle and a paper cup

Kate Moss in an open waistcoat at the 2005 Glastonbury Music Festival. . . ©Getty Images

Chrissie Hynde of The Pretenders playing guitar on stage wearing a frilly white shirt and black leather vest

. . . and Chrissie Hynde of The Pretenders in a leather vest in 1980 © Redferns

Italian couture brand Giuliva Heritage is also becoming a vest destination. “We’ve always included a vest in our collections, inspired by Bianca Jagger and Studio 54 – and over the last two years sales have really started to pick up,” says Margherita Cardelli, who started the brand alongside her husband. Gerardo Cavaliere in 2017. The ivory vest-trouser combo from his SS22 collection is one of the most requested looks by celebrities and fashion editors. “I originally designed it for brides – I thought it was a cool alternative to a blazer, a bit sexy,” says Cardelli. Currently pregnant, Cardelli lives in vests. “It’s smart and fitted on the top, but you can unbutton the bottom to make room.”

Vests make for a surprisingly foolproof workwear look, says retail consultant Natalie Kingham, a fan since she acquired a fitted Ossie Clark red snakeskin-print style as a teenager. In her previous role as purchasing director of Matchesfashion.com, she often placed orders for cardigans at Alexander McQueen, Bella Freud and Dolce & Gabbana. She herself considers them a surprisingly versatile day and night option. “I often bought a waistcoat with the matching blazer because it was obvious and it made my life easier,” she recalls. “It works a bit like a 9 to 5 dress, and it doesn’t feel too stuffy or strict. You can have your meeting wearing the blazer over it, then you can have a cocktail party wearing the vest with nothing underneath.

A model on the catwalk wears a black vest and sunglasses

Saint Laurent SS22

A model wears a small bare-arm vest and a full-length pink floaty skirt

Giorgio Armani SS22

Separating the waistcoat from its three-piece suit origins and usual formal context also challenges its more traditional connotations. The three-piece suit became a symbol of aristocratic eccentricity (and a short-lived trademark look for England football manager Gareth Southgate). At Eton, for example, the privilege of wearing a wacky waistcoat is reserved for prefects. Do you remember Prince William in his Union Jack print style?

In another context, London-based, Helsinki-born designer Ella Boucht approaches vests from a queer perspective, having discovered the power of clothing during their Masters in Womenswear at Central Saint Martins. “I personally love wearing vests because they make me feel invincible. I love the combination of the structured front and the silky back, with exposure of the arms and skin. It’s an erotic piece but professional,” says Boucht. Boucht’s vests, which often feature harnesses, have become an iconic design that aims to “stir the pot and bring homosexuality into a world heavily created for men.”

Bella Hadid is stepping out in an open cardigan and T-shirt in April. . . © GC Images

. . . and Marion Cotillard opts for the cardigan and jeans for her arrival at Nice airport in May © GC Images

Vest-lover Janelle Monáe at the 2012 Grammy Nominations Concert Live. . . © FilmMagic

. . . and actress Elle Fanning at an event in Santa Monica in 2022 © WireImage

Tent ? Do like model and designer TyLynn Nguyen and try a plain white t-shirt under a slightly oversized style. A fan of the gray linen floaty pants and oversized jacket from Skall Studio, she says the set is a stylish — but mostly cool — alternative to a summer jacket. “It’s a lightweight layer that creates the same ease as a suit,” she tells me. Lauren Santo Domingo, Brand Director at Moda Operandi, owns a linen style by Michael Lo Sordo and advises, “You’ll find yourself reaching for the set when you feel like you have nothing else to wear. ”

But watch out for the buttons. “Something that buttons too high above the chest can be difficult to wear unless you’re very small in that department,” she warns. Instead, look for a flattering V and an adjustable strap. And don’t forget to have a magic trick on hand if things go wrong.

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French fashion

Where can I find a great travel jacket?


Not only does such a garment exist, but it even has a special name: a jacket! Like many newly relevant sartorial inventions (the megging, the jort), it is a hybrid garment (shirt plus jacket) well suited to meet contemporary needs.

Specifically, it has to pass through an air-conditioned airport during the very hot months, not be crushed by being crammed into a tiny seat for many hours, and then emerge ready for public viewing at the other end. Although it works equally well for trips from home to the grocery store for a morning milk run, or from home to the office for a daily commute.

It’s a more sophisticated alternative to the sweatshirt, without sacrificing ease. And it works perfectly well on sweatshirts, leggings and yoga pants, meaning you can have your comfy clothes stretchy and look a little cooler too. It is also a gender-neutral garment, which is equally popular among men and women.

Truth be told, the shirt is not, in fact, a new invention. It has its roots in late 19th century French workwear, in particular the bleu de travail, a blue shirt worn by workers to protect their day clothes. (Another name for the garment is the chore coat.) Later it was adopted by the U.S. Army, which issued CPO jackets to first petty officers in the 1930s. From there it made its way to Army-Navy surplus stores and therefore in all our wardrobes.

Its characteristics are oversized proportions, best worn over a t-shirt, turtleneck, vest or similar underlayer; large patch pockets; and snaps or button closures. You can, of course, find military and versions of work clothes of the jacket, but you can also find iterations in technical fabric, linen, silk – almost any material and personal aesthetic you could want.

Zara, for example, offers shortened linen versions as well as a satin crinkle effect with a drawstring at the waist. Everlane has a box cotton jacket with additional side pockets at the hips as well as patch pockets, just like Madewell.

And for something with a bit more zip, check out the prints at the Kit, a Daniel Vosovic commissioned brand, a “Project Runway” and CFDA Fashion Incubator alumnus. Wear them and fly away.

Every week on Open Thread, Vanessa will answer a reader’s fashion question, which you can send her anytime via E-mail Where Twitter. Questions are edited and condensed.

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French fashion

Le Pen wants to hand over the French far right to a 26-year-old

(Bloomberg) — The rising star of Marine Le Pen’s far-right party is taking her presidential ambitions to corners of France that feel left behind.

Bloomberg’s Most Read

As 26-year-old Jordan Bardella arrived in Oléron, an island off the west coast, on the morning of June 2, he shook hands, gave media interviews and spoke with fishermen about their most pressing concerns. – the European quotas on their catches and the rise in the price of fuel.

Officially, the purpose of the visit was to promote a local candidate in the legislative elections which begin on June 12. In reality, it was part of a campaign to make himself known at the head of the National Rally. And at the port at least it seemed to work.

“I’m sure you’ll be our next president!” shouted fisherman Benoit Lavaud, 33. “You are the only person I would vote for!”

Bardella has played a key role in helping Le Pen reach more younger voters, especially in rural and suburban areas. He has been acting party leader since September, when she stepped down to focus on her ultimately failed third bid for the Elysee Palace and she backs him as her successor. But criticism of his nomination has exposed growing divisions over the party’s future.

Two members, who requested anonymity to discuss a sensitive topic, said Bardella was too young and sometimes too radical, pointing out that his use of language undermines Le Pen’s efforts to cover up the movement’s racist roots founded by his father.

“Le Pen is trying to see how he passes with the rest of the electoral base,” said Marta Lorimer, an expert on France’s far-right at the London School of Economics. “She might just come back if she realizes the party can’t survive without Le Pen at its helm.”

The legislative poll presents a challenge for Bardella. New priorities are likely to emerge, along with other potential successors, depending on how the party fares, people say.

The RN, as it is known in France, is expected to win far fewer seats than the parties backing recently re-elected President Emmanuel Macron, who appear set to maintain their position as the largest bloc, or the alliance grouped around a extreme left brand. Jean-Luc Melenchon, who should get the second highest total.

But his earnings will likely be enough to give him formal legislative status, it is projected, for only the second time since the 1980s. a milestone in Le Pen’s decade-long effort to bring the party to the center of French politics.

“What we want is to bring the people into the National Assembly and ensure that our ideas are represented,” said Bardella, who is not running himself for a seat, after speaking with the fishermen. “I want our ideas to take power.”

Of Italian descent, Bardella was born and raised in Seine Saint-Denis, a harsh, poor and ethnically diverse suburb of Paris, and dropped out of college to focus on politics. He quickly rose through the party ranks, becoming a party MP in 2019.

Bardella plays on his background and presents himself as the polar opposite of the average French politician. He has helped Le Pen “integrate” the party since she took it over from her father, focusing on the rising cost of living and reframing her views on women.

“We had a woman as a presidential candidate and we have a 26-year-old guy as acting boss, it shows how modern and open-minded we are,” said Louis Aliot, mayor of the southern city of Perpignan. and vice-president of the party.

At the same time, Bardella has opinions that even Le Pen has been careful not to express.

While Le Pen moved away from comments about race, Bardella portrayed immigration from Africa as a civilizational threat. It’s an allusion to the “great replacement” – a conspiracy theory once confined to far-right racist tracts that fuels deadly gun violence around the world. He is defended by Eric Zemmour, who came fourth in the presidential election and was sanctioned for hate speech.

“I agree with some of Zemmour’s views, I know the topics he talks about because I grew up in the suburbs,” Bardella said in a separate interview on Thursday, before adding “Zemmour doesn’t bring any response to people’s problems.

At the port, Bardella was followed by his official photographer, who is taking images as part of the campaign to make him appear presidential, according to the newspaper Le Monde. The visit, the first by a national politician in a long time, meant a lot, said Lavaud, the fisherman. “Macron’s people didn’t even come.”

Some party members do not believe the RN will perform well in the general election, and they are attacking a system they say does not reflect the will of the people. “It’s because the National Assembly doesn’t deal with people’s problems and ideas that people come out into the streets,” Bardella said.

If he wins an internal party vote in the fall and is confirmed leader of the RN, he will have two elections to prepare: to the Senate in 2023 and to the European Parliament the following year. Only then can he start focusing more on the 2027 presidential election.

“I hear the internal critics say I’m too young but that won’t stop me. Napoleon said “we grow fast on the battlefield”, Bardella said, “and I inherited the resilience of Marine Le Pen”.

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French fashion

Felix Capital, investor in Moonbug and Goop, raises $600 million

A failed attempt to build a textile market at the height of the dotcom boom taught Felix Capital’s Frederic Court an important lesson in the power of habits. “Consumers can change their lifestyle quickly, but in a work environment it takes a lot longer,” says Court, who has now landed a spot on the Midas List Europe thanks to his investments in consumer-focused brands. consumer like Moonbug, Mejuri and Farfetch.

The London-based investor that bills itself as the venture capital fund for the “creative class” has now raised a new round of $600 million, doubling its assets under management to $1.2 billion. Court, founder and managing partner of Felix Capital, says the fund will stick to its “focused” goal of making up to 25 investments in European and US startups that are tapping into changing consumer behavior.

“At Felix, we started talking about the emergence of a more digital lifestyle early on and it’s a trend that’s only accelerated,” Court says. “We want to support members of the creative class who will come up with new brands that will resonate with a certain audience or sub-community.”

Felix’s boutique approach to venture investing has proven successful with early investments in the fashion market: Farfetch, food delivery app Deliveroo and Peloton. The three companies, all of which are now publicly traded, have, like many tech stocks, seen stock prices crash after pandemic-era spikes.

The consumer-centric brands favored by Felix also face serious headwinds from inflation and the cost-of-living crisis, but Court still sees an opportunity. “During Covid, there were a few months where people were petrified, but what happened? People have adapted. As they adapted, it created new opportunities,” says Court, adding that he led the first luxury-focused investment in Farfetch during the depths of the financial crisis in 2010.

Felix also recently celebrated a private exit with the sale of children’s entertainment startup Moonbug to private equity group Blackstone for $3 billion in November 2021. The fund had invested “double-digit millions” before the launch in the company that owns the hit YouTube channels Cocomelon and Blippi, Court said. Felix has also supported Goop, actress Gwyneth Paltrow’s lifestyle brand.

“At the time Frédéric created his first fund, very few funds in Europe understood consumer power,” says Rene Rechtman, CEO of Moonbug. “That changed with massive American platforms dominating industries, but Frederic was definitely at the forefront of that.”

Felix and Court are perhaps best known for their investments in the fashion industry, but the fund picks strong brands across a range of industries including food, mobility, healthcare and e-commerce software based on emerging “digital lifestyle” themes. Court says Web3 and sustainability startups, like existing investments in NFT-based fantasy sports game Sorare and Oatly, which went public in May 2021 with a $10 billion valuation, would be important themes for the new fund. .

“We’re at a scale where we can choose our battles and have a positive impact,” Court says. “I often say that the way we do venture capital is that the money-making part is a by-product of supporting distinctive, attractive, and authentic businesses.”

Court founded Felix Capital in 2015 after working for nearly two decades at Advent Venture Partners, where he led investments in Dailymotion, Zong and Ubiquisys. The French investor began his career at the investment bank Lazard before co-founding an ephemeral textile marketplace startup. “We were able to see the magnitude of the change, but a lot of those changes took a decade or two decades,” Court says.

Former PayPal and Meta director David Marcus worked with Court on Zong, which he founded, and his new crypto company Lightspark. “He’s always been very in tune with the brands of the future and the trends that will become mainstream over time,” says Marcus, who oversaw Facebook Messenger and Meta’s Libra cryptocurrency project. “He was not only a great investor and board member, but he was my advisor when we pivoted the business and eventually sold it to Paypal.”

The fund also recruited María Auersperg de Lera, who previously worked at Mosaic Ventures and Balderton Capital, and Sophie Luck, formerly of the venture capital arm of German media group Hubert Burda, as investors. Felix has also bolstered his advisory team with Maria Raga, CEO of Depop, GoFundMe CMO Musa Tariq and Branko Milutinović, founder and CEO of gaming app developer Nordeus.

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French fashion

Proenza Schouler Resort Collection 2023

There is one fabric in this Proenza Schouler collection that is a real wonder. “We’ve never seen anything like this before,” Lazaro Hernandez said during a preview. “The sequins are baked into the yarn itself, so when you knit it, it’s all embedded. It looks like Lurex, but it’s a nice spongy knit. The two-column dresses they’ve made with this fabric are just about the most elegant things we’ve seen all season. Evening wear is a neglected category at the moment. This may be a lingering effect of the pandemic. But the elegance of the columns is matched only by their ease. “We love that it’s basically t-shirt dresses,” added Jack McCollough.

In the pre-seasons, the Proenza Schouler duo leans towards experimentation. Scrolling through these images clearly shows that they are strongly drawn to the texture and feel of the resort. In addition to that spongy sequin knit, they used silk velvet for strappy dresses and matching sets, three-dimensional rib knit to coordinate cardigans and flares, and cropped shearling on a coat. belt. The saturated colors of velvet and shearling especially added to their appeal.

After texture, their other concern here was form. It’s tempting to see 1940s proportions in nipped-waist jackets and full skirts whose sculptural hems have been reinforced with horsehair. Dior’s 1947 New Look was a repudiation of years of wartime restraint and sacrifice. We haven’t dealt with deprivation on this scale, but the designers are determined to evoke an upbeat vibe and exuberant volumes are one way to do that. Sweatpants and frilly ankle socks paired with a different pinched jacket is another cheekier way to go.

Regarding the form, they revisited the corsets which were the building blocks of their first collection. “Old Proenza vibes,” Hernandez said, but updated in suit fabric for a pop of surprise.

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French fashion

Iga Swiatek ends historically dominant French Open title race

Credit:

Clive Brunskill/Getty. Pictured: Iga Swiatek.

When Iga Swiatek defeated Coco Gauff quickly to claim her second French Open title, it didn’t surprise tennis fans so much.

What may be more surprising, however, is that in winning this title, Swiatek became the first player since Serena Williams in 2013 to win Roland Garros after opening the tournament as a +100 or better favorite.

Swiatek entered the tournament at -115 before seeing her odds shortened throughout the two-week event, and the last player to enter the event and win it at shorter odds was Williams.

Willliams entered the 2013 French Open at -133 before embarking on a title chase, per sportsoddshistory.com.

Before Williams, Steffi Graf won the French Open in 1995 after opening at -125.

When Swiatek won her first Roland Garros title in 2020, she entered the event at +5000.

Notable French Open champions Year Stock opening price Championship Match Prize
Iga Swiatek 2022 -115 -650
Iga Swiatek 2020 +5000 -185
Ashley Barty 2019 +1800 -170
Serena Williams 2015 +240 -320
Serena Williams 2013 -133 -550
Justine Henin 2007 +150 -556
Steffi Graf 1995 -125 -200

As of February 1 this year, Swiatek was set at +500 to win the French Open, but a series of dominating forms including five titles before the event saw his chances dwindle in the months leading up to Roland Garros.

Swiatek is the favorite to win the next Slam on the calendar, Wimbledon, as she is currently listed at +200.

Perhaps Swiatek is also continuing Martina Navratilova’s 72-game winning streak, a WTA record, while the Pole currently has 35 wins.

There’s a long way to go on that one.

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French fashion

Queen Elizabeth receives Jubilee gift of a horse from Frenchman Macron

President Emmanuel Macron gave queen elizabeth a horse belonging to the French Republican Guard to mark her jubilee, describing the monarch as the “golden thread” that had bound France and Britain during her 70-year reign.

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Macron then paid tribute to the Queen during a flame rekindling ceremony at the Monument of the Arc de Triomphewhere he lays a wreath at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in the presence of the British Ambassador to France, Menna Rawlings.

Elizabeth is known for her love of horses. Fabuleu de Maucour, the seven-year-old gray gelding donated by Macron, escorted the president down the Champs-Élysées in Paris last month as part of an official ceremony, Macron’s office said.

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Britain kicked off four days of pageantry and parties Thursday to celebrate Elizabeth’s reign.

Macron paid tribute to the Queen for bringing an element of wartime stability and profound change to society.

“You are the golden thread that unites our two countries, proof of the unwavering friendship between our two countries and our nations,” Macron said.

Macron was one of the harshest critics of British decision-making after his vote to leave the European Union, but the president expressed his admiration for a queen who came to the throne less than a decade after the end of World War II.

Macron also presented a thoroughbred to President Xi Jinping during his three-day state visit to China in 2018.

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French fashion

French airline La Compagnie All-Business-Class NYC to Italy

It’s the cheapest way to travel in style to Italy.

Flight time from Newark to Milan is approximately eight hours and twenty minutes. Via La Compagnie is a largely happy experience to start with.

The company is not a new airline – it debuted in 2014 – but the all-business class flight, 76 seats in total, has a new route. It runs directly from the New York metropolitan area to Italy’s fashion capital. The new service was celebrated at a launch party in Manhattan in March, and a few weeks later I had the opportunity to experience this swanky airline for myself.

The history of La Compagnie is not without appeal. Past reviews, especially of its older, repurposed aircraft (Boeing 757-200), weren’t exactly glowing. Seats reclined but did not lie flat and service was rated as good but not outstanding, while the food was not worthy of praise.

Continue reading the article after our video

Recommended Fodor Video

Yet the cost of business flights via the French airline was – and is – remarkably cheap compared to the cost of a business class ticket from New York to Italy via one of the major carriers like Delta, where recent research showed a comparable Delta One class. tickets at $9,596 and La Compagnie at $2,030. Now that La Compagnie has added new planes to its restricted fleet, it’s easy to make the case for flying at the upper echelon of airline travel.

The Company-dsc_2373

The company

“The Company is aimed at a population of travelers who want to travel in high-end style but who do not pay high-end prices”, explains Christian Vernet, president of the airline. “From the beginning, our promise has been to offer travelers uncompromising service at the most attractive rate… This is the closest thing to a private flight without the price tag.”

On the new route from Newark to Milan, which began in mid-April, travelers are provided with an all-new aircraft (a 321neo) outfitted in the company’s signature soft blue and pale gray hues. It’s a soothing sight after having a drink in Newark’s garish and musty Virgin Lounge, a supposed perk for La Compagnie ticket holders.

The seat shells, arranged in pairs on either side of the single-aisle, are spacious and comfortable. That said, those used to flying business class on overseas routes or from NYC to LAX on one of the major carriers won’t find too many surprises here. There’s the standard pillow and blanket (although the Company’s quilted blanket may be slightly higher quality than that distributed by Delta or United), large over-ear headphones (these are just ok; if you have your own noise canceling Bose or Beats, you’re better), a bottle of water, a cute toiletry bag stocked with the usual suspects – foam earplugs, socks, a toothbrush and toothpaste – and surprisingly – lip balm and cream for hands and nails Caudalie.

Boarding is child’s play. That would be true on a full flight of any plane with so few seats, but on a recent Monday evening in April, boarding and settling into the quarter-full flight proved particularly straightforward.

Many airlines demonstrated their creativity through their required safety video, and La Compagnie joined the competition. Her zen video is performed by two yogis, who stretch and move with agility in voiceover, and video captioning explains how to get oxygen and buckle up properly.

On the night flight, a light meal is served shortly after landing, and on the day of return, a full four-course lunch. On both flights, there were only a few delicious bites of sweet potato soup and lemon pie. Still, just about everything else was disappointing: a soggy Caprese sandwich, rubbery cod, overly salty smoked tuna.

Fortunately, Milan is a city that takes its food and drink seriously, and if you arrive hungry, you won’t stay that way for long. As if ordering a Negroni in the Brera district while waiting for a table at the dear Latteria San Marco and having it arrive in a huge tumbler wasn’t enough, think of the appetizer snacks that sit alongside: gourmet green olives, slim, salty potato chips and oily Marcona almonds. With snacks like these, who needs an appetizer?

But Milan is not a place of deprivation. This is one for fun and discovery. The city is rarely, if ever, spoken of with the same adoration given to other Italian cities like Rome, Florence and Venice. It’s not often cited as an Italian place people really want to visit, like Sicily, the Amalfi Coast or Lake Como, but unless you have an aversion to eating next to locals, visiting art galleries and designer showrooms and shopping at one of the – sort of a vintage find with Milanese on their lunch break, skipping Milan for other Italian pastures is ill-advised.

Venice is only two and a half hours away by train, Romejust over three, but don’t worry: these tourist-heavy Italian cities will still be around after you’ve spent a few days exploring cosmopolitan Milan.

Every city has its fair share of excellent hotels, and Milan is no different. Big spenders wanting to be at the center of it all, near the gob-smacking Duomowhich is literally the downtown area of ​​the city, will not be disappointed with the Park Hyatt’s accommodations. Galleria Vik offers a unique stay for something a little different and just as close to the main action. Each of the establishment’s 89 rooms, the first in Europe for the South American brand, features the work of an artist. No two rooms are identical in decor or layout, with dozens of rooms overlooking the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.

The company

From Galleria Vik, where the enthusiastic and helpful staff make up for the style flaws of the guest rooms, it’s just a short 10-minute walk to Brera, an area teeming with students and vintage shops. The wares at some, like Pauline Frommer and Vintage Delirium, with their lightly worn Dolce & Gabbana dresses and Versace jackets, aren’t cheap, but Urzi, run by a husband-and-wife team, is the kind of little boutique that will get you there. makes you happy to have taken the vintage course. It’s also affordable – jewelry hovering around 40 euros, a spring blazer with sharp stripes for 45 euros – and far more original than shopping along Via Monte Napoleone, home to Prada, Balenciaga and Fendi, for n to name a few. -the retail locations found here. Speaking of Prada, the Foundationon the outskirts of town, attracts visitors largely because of the café designed by Wes Anderson, Bar Luce.

Milano & Partners recently unveiled the YESMilano campaign with the aim of showcasing all that Italy’s second largest city has to attract visitors. Sure, Milan is the gateway to much of Italy and much of Europe, but it’s absolutely charming and inviting in its own right, the city’s promotional arm promises. An ongoing initiative highlights distinct Milan neighborhoods, such as City Life, where lunch at Ratana, a sustainability-focused restaurant with outdoor tables, seems like an even better idea once you realize you’re sitting among locals. Bone marrow risotto, a staple of Milanese cuisine, is the thing to order here, its bold yellow hue resulting from saffron, a signature seasoning of this region.

This being Italy, the fun doesn’t stop at the main course. Not when there’s so much ice cream around. Visitors to New York miss the Italian gelato outpost Gromwhich closed several years ago, will be delighted to find their favorite flavors like fior de latte or pistachio in the streets of Milan.

Milan’s nightlife technically begins at happy hour when employees wrap up their shifts and head to the nearest spot for an aperitivo – this city will have you falling for Italian bitters like Campari and Select Aperitivo – before to enjoy a multi-course meal followed by after-dinner drinks. Visitors looking to soak up the energy and buzz that lately define Milan should head to the Canal District, where hotspots like Mag Cafe are in high demand. The pizza and the house red at Fabbrica Pizzeria are particularly pleasant when combined with the sunset over the Naviglio Pavese canal. Here you can marvel at everything Milan has become. Venice can wait another day.

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French fashion

French tennis frustration is the color of red clay

PARIS – The most important feature of the French Open is that this Grand Slam tournament takes place on the rusty red clay of Roland Garros, a beloved feature that is as much a part of local culture and tradition as booksellers who sell second-hand art and books. along the Seine.

And yet, as is so often the case in the country that calls itself Albert Camus and Simone de Beauvoir, the relationship between France and its “clay terrain” is a little more complicated.

This red clay, which comes from a small brickyard in Oise, north of Paris, arouses so much love.

“My favorite surface,” said Stéphane Levy, a life member of the Tennis Club de Paris, a favorite haunt of some of the country’s best players, including Gilles Simon and Corentin Moutet, where eight of the 18 courts are made from the same clay. like those of Roland Garros.

“There’s no desire to gamble on it,” Levy said. “The slip, the clay on your body when you sweat.”

But clay has also become a symbol of deep frustration. A Frenchwoman has not won the singles championship of this precious country, the one that requires more courage but also more reflection than any other, since Mary Pierce in 2000. A Frenchman has not won it in 39 years , since Yannick Noah in 1983. The last French men and women were eliminated from the singles tournaments on Saturday.

Why?

The answer probably has a lot to do with a central contradiction in the house of the greatest red clay scene. Only 11.5% of tennis courts in France are traditional red earth and most of them are in private clubs. Another 16.5% of the courts are made of an imitation clay surface which is similar to boat ground but plays harder and faster than softer traditional clay.

The maintenance of red clay in cold and wet weather, common in France for much of the year, is practically impossible, and the construction of indoor complexes for them is expensive. So most French tennis players grow up playing on hard courts, unlike their Spanish counterparts, where temperate weather and red clay dominate the way Rafael Nadal (who won in five sets on Sunday) and so many Spaniards before him dominated Roland Garros.

That tennis at the highest level is played on different surfaces is as normal for tennis fans as fuzzy yellow balls and growling forehands, but it’s one of the great quirks of the sport. Imagine for a moment if the NBA played 70% of its games on hardwood, 20% on rubber, and 10% on rag wool carpeting. This is basically what professional tennis players do, spending the first three months on hard courts, the next two on clay, about six weeks on grass, and then most of the rest of the year on hard courts. .

While the surfaces have become more similar in recent years, each requires a unique set of skills and produces a very different style of play.

Grass and clay are at the extremes, with grass being the fastest of the three surfaces.

Clay is the slowest. The ball pops out of the ground and hangs in the air for a split second longer, allowing players to catch it and extend rallies, and forcing them to play a more tactical style, starting from the baseline.

Watch an hour of professional tennis on every surface. If you cut all the time between points, real clay tennis lasts about 13 minutes, according to multiple studies of energy and effort in the sport. This is significantly more than on other surfaces, where the player returning the serve is at a more serious disadvantage and may struggle to get the ball back into play.

Hard courts are about halfway and require full play.

Among the pros, red clay is both loved and hated.

“I don’t like it very much,” said Daniil Medvedev of Russia, the world’s second-largest male player, who struggled for years to win a match at Roland Garros and reached the fourth round on Saturday.

Australia’s Nick Kyrgios has no use for the surface and is skipping the clay-court season altogether. Iga Swiatek of Poland, the highest ranked woman in the world, would spend her entire career slipping on it if she could.

Winning on clay requires a doctorate. in what coaches and players call “point building,” which is shorthand for playing tennis like chess, thinking not just about this next move, but three moves later. Learning this to the point where it’s instinctual can take years, and like most things, the sooner you start training the brain to think this way, the better.

“On clay, the fight really continues,” said Aurelio Di Zazzo, coach at Tennis Club de Paris. “The longer the effort, the more you have to use your mind.”

The club, which is less than a mile from Roland Garros, tries to carry the torch of the red earth as best they can. This torch is not cheap. Maintenance of the courts requires four full-time employees, and new clay costs over $2,000 per year for each court. Each plot must be completely dug up and redone every 15 years, costing over $30,000 per plot.

Levy said it was worth it.

“This clay is part of France,” he said.

The French tennis federation agrees. The organization also really wants a Roland-Garros singles champion. It is expected to announce a new plan to promote tennis on the “boat land” in July. Maybe that can help.

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French fashion

These french tips are the latest style for your nails

The French manicure has a remarkable hold. As it continues to be popular this year, it has spawned a plethora of vibrant styles with the same timeless DNA: arches of hues around the tips of the nails. Talented nail artists have shared their unique take on French tips on Instagram, including v-shaped tips, tie-dye and eggs, especially the sunny side. Here’s all the inspiration you’ll need to start your new claws.

Unexpected French Tips to Try Right Now

A French tip is comparable to a blazer. It will never go out of style as it goes with everything, but there are plenty of ways to make it look younger, fresher and on-trend. And the way you combine it based on hue, shape, width and pattern can really make it look fresh and different.

Surely there is at least one French manicure trend on this list that appeals to your aesthetic. Show your favorite pick to your nail artist at your next appointment or try it yourself.

abstract rainbow

You don’t have to choose just one color for your French tip manicure; kiss them all with rainbow nails. Rainbow nails are a fun and bright aesthetic that everyone should try at least once, and there are many ways to achieve it. If you prefer a more subtle look, opt for a V-shaped line at the tips of your nails, with each side a different color. The end result is subtle yet charming. But if you want to do it all, try recreating this quirky abstract rainbow nail inspiration.

French with a logo

You have probably seen the nail art logo on social media as it is one of the hottest trends in recent years. Putting logos on your nails is a great way to show off your personality and interests. You can showcase your favorite brands, whether it’s sports brands like Nike or luxury fashion houses like Chanel. You can be creative with the color of your nibs, choosing from a range of pastels or matching them to your logo hue.

French pastel coffin

Experimenting with different nail colors, lengths and shapes is one way to make French tips more modern and interesting. Longer nails are ideal for this design as they provide more room for nail art and accentuate the tips. If you like to wear long nails, consider a coffin shape. Coffin nails are incredibly feminine and beautiful, and celebrities and style icons love them for their versatility. They can elongate your fingers and make even the most basic look trendy and fun.

mix and match

We’ve established that you don’t have to stick to one color for your French manicure. You shouldn’t have to limit yourself to just one design. Adorn each finger with a unique design. For a more fun aesthetic, add adorable and distinctive accents and colors to each nail.

french floral

These French claws have been given a makeover by changing the colors and adding small daisies. Because there are so many possibilities, French tip is one of our favorite nail art styles. Adding these designs into your nail art can really take your look to the next level.

Half French

It takes a great artist to pull off a look like this. Experimenting with design variations while adding a contemporary touch elevates the design. The innovative use of negative space creates a very modern flourish.

French Peas

This modern French version is deceptively simple, requiring only one additional tool: a pointing tool. This is a classic French design with a contemporary twist. The finished piece has a 3D look, bringing this French into the 21st century. If you don’t want to be all French, try plain nail paint with polka dots on some of them.

Snake skin

To turn this style of colorful French tips into zoological French tips, have your nail technician hand draw scales to mimic the slippery skin of a snake. Keeping the nail art to a few fingers will help those with a fear of reptiles, but others should feel free to snake this design around all ten fingers.

Featured image: Courtesy of Instagram/clawsxcollxtion; Hero Image: Courtesy Unsplash


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French fashion

Emma Raducanu retaliates to sink Linda Noskova at Roland-Garros | French Open 2022

Over the past 11 months, as she made her first trip to the WTA Tour, every time Emma Raducanu stepped onto a tennis court, she had to fight against her opponents’ greater experience as well as the quality of their games. Her sparse competitive record means that even opponents the same age as her have taken to the field much more mentally and physically prepared for the fight ahead.

But on a wet and rainy evening on the Simonne-Mathieu court, Raducanu faced a completely different scenario. For the first time in her career at the highest level, even on her Roland-Garros debut, she was both the oldest and most experienced player on the court.

As she faced a shot of precocity in 17-year-old Czech Linda Noskova, a debutant in Grand Slam qualifying just a week ago who immediately won three rounds to reach her first main draw, Raducanu dug deep to hold her back, recovering from a set and crumble to reach the second round in Paris with a 6-7(4), 7-5, 6-1 victory in two hours and 37 minutes.

“It was an absolute battle. I have to say Linda is playing amazing tennis and she really came out shooting,” Raducanu said. “As soon as I lowered my ball speed, she was all over me and killed me at the end of the first set.”

Despite breaking serve early in that opening set, Raducanu was too passive early on, opting to disrupt Noskova with hearty looping balls and extended points rather than imposing from inside the baseline.

Noskova, meanwhile, knew exactly what she wanted to do in the biggest moment of her young career so far: attacking. She took the ball boldly early with perfect timing, smothered all short balls and whenever an opportunity to take her favorite backhand down the line opened up, Noskova took it without a doubt. Both in style and daring, she was not so different from last year’s fearless Raducanu before the blessing and burden of being a Grand Slam champion.

As the first set progressed, Noskova’s confidence grew and it culminated in a stunning tiebreaker triumph. She continued to shine in the second set, breaking serve with a perfect return game to go ahead 4-3.

As the match reached its most crucial moments, Raducanu slowly began to move closer to the baseline, taking the ball early and responding to Noskova’s fire with some of his own. Under pressure from Raducanu for the first time, Noskova offered more errors. The gritty set ended with a touch of magic as Raducanu ripped it off with a soft dropshot winner.

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    With the momentum on his side and Noskova’s high-octane attack laced with much more frequent errors, Raducanu moved quickly through the third set and second round. Even though Raducanu was heavily favored to win, she showed her toughness in addition to her durability after so many recent ailments.

    “I knew if I had a really tough time in the second set it could get to him,” Raducanu said. “And I think in the third set I was definitely able to keep pushing. Eventually, I became more and more dominant. I was quite happy.

    “Physically, I think I was really good there. I lasted the whole three sets. I was really good. I also thought I was going to surpass her.

    After a day of rest, Raducanu will face world No. 47 Aliaksandra Sasnovich for a spot in the third round.

    Earlier on Monday, defending champion Barbora Krejcikova was knocked out in the first round by French teenager, Diane Parry, losing 1-6, 6-2, 6-3 after leading 2-0 in the second set.

    Krejcikova, the second seed, was playing her first game since February after suffering an elbow injury.

    “I think I just broke down physically, and it was difficult because I didn’t play the games,” Krejcikova said. “Usually games are different from training, and I tried to prepare as best I could. But yes, I collapsed.

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    French fashion

    Deepika Padukone invests the Côte d’Azur during Cannes in two charming looks | fashion trends

    Cannes 2022: Deepika Padukone’s fashionable move to the Cannes Film Festival is far from over, and we’re not complaining about it. The actress, a jury member at the prestigious ongoing festival, posted photos and videos of herself dressed in several exquisite ensembles, and each look was equally stunning. The star recently hit the streets of Cannes for a photoshoot in an outfit that blends vintage fashion with modern elegance. She also did another shoot on old Hollywood glamour. We can’t pick a favorite, and you’ll surely love both of her looks too.

    On Sunday, Deepika posted photos from a photo shoot that showed her conquering the French Riviera with her jaw-dropping style. While a post showed the star in a quirky printed shirt and hot pink skirt, Deepika slipped into a smoldering black bodycon dress for the other images. The skirt and shirt look is signed Louis Vuitton. As for the black ensemble, Deepika wore it to shoot for Cartier. Scroll forward to see Deepika’s posts. (Also read: Cannes 2022: Deepika Padukone Gets Edgy In Mini-Jacket Dress For Vanity Fair X Louis Vuitton Dinner, See Photos)

    Deepika Padukone drops two charming new looks from Cannes. (Instagram)

    As for the first look, Deepika slipped into an oversized white button down shirt paired with a knee length skirt. The top is adorned with original patterns, wide collars and long cuffed sleeves. Deepika tucked it elegantly inside the hot pink skirt with an A-line silhouette and gold embellished buttons. A pair of black thigh-high heeled boots, a silver link bracelet and a mini handbag complete it.

    Deepika opted for minimal makeup and a messy bun with a few loose locks sculpting her face to stylize the ensemble. In the end, Deepika chose winged eyeliner, kohl-lined eyes, nude lipstick, flushed cheeks, and glowing skin for the glamorous choices.

    For the second look, Deepika opted for a black off-the-shoulder dress with a plunging neckline flaunting her cleavage, long sleeves, a floor-length hemline, a thigh-high slit and a bodycon silhouette that accentuated the star’s svelte figure. .

    Deepika teamed the black dress with a diamond necklace, matching earrings and a ring from Cartier. She topped it off with a messy low bun, bold red lips, glowing skin, blushed cheeks, radiant highlighter, subtle eye shadow, mascara on the lashes, and fashionable brows.

    What look of Deepika did you like the most?

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    French fashion

    What will €770,000 buy in Latvia, Spain, France, Norway and Westmeath?

    IRELAND: HORSELEAP

    This substantial 389m² five-bedroom house sits on 1.6 acres of land about an hour’s drive from Dublin. With high-end finishes, such as solid oak doors and granite window sills, the property has an independent double garage of 120 m² and a BER of B2.
    Price €770,000
    Agent sherryfitz.ie

    LATVIA: RIGA

    LATVIA: RIGA

    Located in the embassy belt, this four-bedroom apartment is in an elegant building dating back to 1886 designed by architect Karl Johann Felsko. The property, which has been completely renovated, extends over 234 m², has high ceilings and overlooks a courtyard.
    Price €797,640
    Agent sothebysrealty.com

    FRANCE: REMOULINS

    FRANCE: REMOULINS

    FRANCE: REMOULINS

    This house dates from 1870, has six bedrooms and extends over 240 m². With a terrace and courtyard, the property has a contemporary kitchen combined with lovely period details such as interior brick arches and antique marble tiled flooring.
    Price €785,000
    Agent immo-diffusion.fr

    SPAIN: MIJAS COSTA

    SPAIN: MIJAS COSTA

    SPAIN: MIJAS COSTA

    This five bedroom house is 3 km from the center of Fuengirola and 25 km from Malaga airport. It is spread over three floors, with guest accommodation in the basement. Built in 2005, the property was renovated in 2010.
    Price €769,000
    Agent spacemarbella.com

    NORWAY: OSLO

    NORWAY: OSLO

    NORWAY: OSLO

    This penthouse just next to St Hanshaugen Park, offers stunning views over the Oslo skyline, dates from 2012 and spans 89m², with another 12m² roof terrace. The property has high ceilings, oak flooring and a rear garden.
    Price Kr7.72m/€757,098
    Agent privatmegleren.no

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    French fashion

    Alyssa Shelasky needs a night out

    RHINEBECK, NY – Travel, food, parenting and sex writer Alyssa Shelasky recently experimented with a new medium: composing a “missed connection” on Craigslist.

    Earlier this year, she bought a weekend house near Rhinebeck, NY, with her partner, Sam Russell, and she tried to settle down, maybe even find a friend. “When we first moved here during the winter, I was a bit lost and disoriented,” she said. “I hate feeling like a tourist.”

    So she took her kids, Hazel, 6, and River, 2, to the farmer’s market. His experience was not really bucolic. “As I was driving away in our used Dodge minivan, a woman in a gleaming Mercedes was violently beeping me and fingering me for not moving fast enough,” she said.

    Ms Shelasky said she had a large community of girlfriends back home in New York, but not around Rhinebeck. “I think I have a very strong sense of myself,” she said. “I’m a mother, then a writer, then a girlfriend.” Being out of town with no one to talk about life with, “or to talk about sex, it’s kind of weird for me.”

    But then she met a British woman who was in a playground with her children. “She was funny, relaxed and self-deprecating,” Ms. Shelasky said. “It was very uplifting.” Ms Shelasky wanted to swap numbers but didn’t get the chance before her children ran out of steam. “We awkwardly said goodbye, and I left staring at her longingly as she looked at me.”

    So she posted the “Missed Connection”.

    She got two replies… from men looking for a different kind of connection. Not that it’s outside Ms. Shelasky’s comfort zone: For the past seven years, she’s been the Sex Diaries editor for New York magazine, and the kind of person who will freely admit: ” I breastfed both of my children and had sex with a bra on.

    On a recent mild Friday evening, a few days before the publication of his memoirs, “It Might Be Too Personal: and Other Intimate Storiesshe spent a rare night away from her family in the village of Rhinebeck.

    “I always try to give my kids a good time, and they need a lot of attention and they come first. I was never able to be myself in my new place,” he said. she said while browsing the home goods store House SFW, which sells antique French linens with lobsters embroidered on them and sets of cocktail glasses for $400.

    “When I marry a rich second husband – even though I’m anti-marriage – I will register here,” she said.

    “I can’t figure out here, if it’s ‘namaste’ and carob chips,” Ms Shelasky said as she crossed the street towards Samuel’s Sweet Shop.

    She wanted to buy candy necklaces for her daughter. “Hazel is the leader of a black market candy ring at school,” she said. “I’m like, you’re 6, that’s criminal. But I guess I’m an enabler because I keep buying him candy.

    The store is partly owned by actor Paul Rudd. “I have a framed picture of us in the house,” Ms. Shelasky said. She was taken at a gala where Mr Rudd was the celebrity host and she was attending about four months after having her daughter as a single mother by choice.

    “Everyone was like, ‘It’s going to be hard’ or ‘You’re never going to have a social life again.’ But I was there, dressed, ready and I had it together,” she said. “The picture is like, I’m here, I’m fine, I’m glowing.

    Ms. Shelasky, who wore a Zadig and Voltaire print camisole and Mother jeans, walked around Le Petit Bistro to sit at the bar for dinner. She ordered a dirty gin martini and said, “The only thing I like more than holding a martini is grudges.” A passing waiter told her how beautiful she was. “Sometimes I get so sick of talking about love and sex, and I want to write a style book about what you like.”

    She listed what she liked after ordering steak fries, medium. “Freda Salvador shoes, La Colombe coffee. Well done, not E!. Charlotte Tilbury eyeliner in emerald green. Those Jonathan Adler ceramics that say things like “Quaaludes.” And I hate mayonnaise with a passion.

    In her book, she writes candidly about love and parenthood, but also about sexual harassment, trying to get a script made in Hollywood and her decision to have a child alone at age 37 using a sperm donor.

    “You have control over your finances, your style, your dating. …” But conceiving a baby alone? “You can’t do it. You feel so hopeless and so trapped in your own life. want is some hope that it is possible. Now that she has done it successfully, she will tell aging single women she just met that she can help them get pregnant by them themselves.

    “I dated online while I was pregnant. I would say, ‘By the way, I’m a bit pregnant,'” she said. “I dated early in my pregnancy and also while I was showing. I loved having huge porn star tits.

    Reactions were mixed. “Some guys were like, ‘I love it, it’s not for me, but you rock.’ A guy was a star on one of my favorite TV shows at the time, it was like, ‘How dare you’,” she said. “He wasn’t worth another second of my weather.”

    She stopped dating when she was six or seven months old, “when I got uncomfortable and tired and wanted to order Thai food and watch ‘Friday Night Lights’.”

    When Hazel was a baby, Ms Shelasky decided to return to online dating, saying in her profile that she was “a single mother in a very simple situation”. She met Mr. Russell, who legally adopted Hazel and is River’s father. “I have a negative interest in being married and yet I want to be with him forever,” she said. “I guess I have traditional values ​​that I can’t fight.”

    She still has no contact with this British woman from the playground. Not that she’s desperate for company right now. “The Friends Shop is open, but by appointment only,” she said with a laugh. “I’m a very independent person and I need a lot of space, so the rare times I’m not with my kids, do I want to be with a mum friend or do I want to be only ?” she says. “Alone time is the greatest luxury when you’re a parent.”

    She called an Uber on her phone. Her nightly routine is to take a hot bath, take a candy to sleep, and walk naked from the tub straight to bed. But it was a little more difficult in the country. “I know nothing will happen to me, but I am a writer with a wild imagination.”

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    French fashion

    The Bachelor Australia 2022: Inside the new Gold Coast mansion

    Inside The Bachelor mansion: Channel 10 dating show goes from a ‘French castle’ in western Sydney to a $2.8million resort-style home on the Gold Coast

    The Bachelor producers have reportedly secured a $2.8 million Gold Coast waterfront property for the upcoming season.

    The new suitor – reportedly Thomas Malucelli – will hand out roses at a five-bedroom house in Helensvale, just 20 minutes from Surfers Paradise.

    According to property records, the luxury mansion has a resort-style pool, movie theater, and three bathrooms.

    show is said to have moved from Dural to Sydney to a $2.8million mansion on the Gold Coast (pictured)” class=”blkBorder img-share” style=”max-width:100%” />

    Inside the new Bachelor mansion: Channel 10 dating show is said to have moved from Dural to Sydney to a $2.8million mansion on the Gold Coast (pictured)

    The house also has a long driveway lined with bushes leading to the entrance.

    As soon as they enter, competitors will be greeted by a sumptuous hall, as well as a magnificent lounge with a fireplace.

    The property also has an indoor pool and spa area, reports so dramatic.

    Poolside dates: According to property records, the luxury mansion has a resort-style pool (pictured), cinema room and three bathrooms

    Poolside dates: According to property records, the luxury mansion has a resort-style pool (pictured), cinema room and three bathrooms

    Miss Havisham's loft?  Photos on realestate.com.au reveal one room is decorated with creepy Victorian dolls and a vintage rocking chair

    Miss Havisham’s loft? Photos on realestate.com.au reveal one room is decorated with creepy Victorian dolls and a vintage rocking chair

    It also includes a spacious lounge and dining area with a wet bar and marble worktops.

    Pictures on real estate.com.au reveal that a room is decorated with creepy Victorian dolls and a vintage rocking chair.

    The estate’s grounds are perfect for group get-togethers, meaning cast and crew won’t need to travel far beyond the mansion.

    Downgrade: The mansion is a downgrade of the $6.3million 'French castle' in Dural, western Sydney, used for Jimmy Nicholson's season

    Downgrade: The mansion is a downgrade of the $6.3million ‘French castle’ in Dural, western Sydney, used for Jimmy Nicholson’s season

    The property went on sale in April 2021 and has since been listed for rent on Airbnb.

    The mansion is a downgrade of the $6.3million ‘French castle’ in Dural, Sydney’s west used for Jimmy Nicholson’s season.

    Prior to Dural, The Bachelor and The Bachelorette were filmed at a $2.3 million property in Oxford Falls, Sydney’s north.

    Coming soon: The Bachelor began filming its tenth season on Monday, with Osher Günsberg (pictured) returning as host

    Coming soon: The Bachelor began filming its tenth season on Monday, with Osher Günsberg (pictured) returning as host

    Advertisement

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    French fashion

    Review: “What Artists Wear” by Charlie Porter

    Jean-Michel Basquiat loved his clothes as he loved his art: “oversized, quirky, controlled chaos”. His outfits, stained with paint and burnt seams, were very elaborate and often expensive – he preferred Rei Kawakubo’s designs for Comme des Garçons – but they never lost the spirit of his former homelessness: “Always dress just in case”, he’ d say. “Maybe I should sleep on the street.”

    In WHAT THE ARTISTS WEAR (Norton, $30), British fashion journalist and art curator Charlie Porter treats his subjects as more than just “style icons”. Making art can be isolating, discouraging, consuming, he says. What a person wears while doing it, whether it’s a blouse, blue jeans or couture, is “a testament to that fearlessness, that focus.”

    It’s also a testament to their humanity: a response to the deified white male canon, a reminder that all artists are mere mortals with bodies that need covering just like ours. What adorns the non-male (Louise Bourgeois, Mary Manning), non-white (Tehching Hsieh, Alvaro Barrington) bodies in this book is as much self-expression as resistance.

    “What can these artists tell us about the way we all wear clothes,” Porter asks, “all of us trying to pretend not to perform, all the time?”

    During the Area party at Keith Haring’s new POP shop in New York in 1986, Basquiat’s look was pure instinct and aesthetics: the mismatched checked shirt and trousers, under a loose jacket (probably Comme des Garçons) and a Kazou hat. The juxtaposition makes artist Francisco Clemente, to his right, look like an accountant, in his stiff, starchy suit and tie.

    “Attack clothes”, Cindy Sherman scribbled in her notebook in 1983: “ugly person (face/body) vs trendy clothes”. That same year, she published a series of self-portraits in Interview magazine that “challenge fashion imagery,” Porter writes, including this photograph in which she wears a tailored, imperfectly tailored jacket-dress (which can say which one?) French fashion designer Jean-Paul Gaultier. Rather than fetishizing the clothes she wears as works of art in themselves, she views them solely as “a means to an end.”

    At 25, David Hammons made his first of many body prints, which brought his name to the public. It was 1968 and he had moved to Los Angeles from Springfield, Illinois five years earlier. Bruce Talamon photographed him in his studio in 1974, wearing jeans and shirtless, with a bottle of baby oil to his right. “He just poured oil on his hands and rubbed them together,” Talamon told Porter. “He would then rub his oily hands on any part of his body and also on his clothes, then press that part of the body onto the paper.”

    Like the imprint of a baby’s foot or hand in a family album, the result was a record, a preservation, of a person and a time that would inevitably change over time. “By doing body prints,” Hammons said, “it tells me exactly who I am and who we are.”

    German Fluxus artist Joseph Beuys was photographed by Caroline Tisdall at the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland in 1974, wearing his old school uniform – white shirt and jeans, fisherman’s jacket, felt hat – under a lined coat of fur. According to Porter, the uniform “made him one of the most recognizable performers of the 20th century”. But for him, the garment was not simply a “trademark”: each of these components was both function and personal mythology. The hat, for example, which he wore to protect his head from the cold after a plane crash (in 1944, when he was in the German Air Force) left him with a metal plate in the skull. According to his shamanic beliefs, he said the hat “represents another type of head and functions as another personality”.


    Lauren Christensen is an editor at Book Review.

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    French fashion

    Restaurants, bars along the French Broad River in Asheville

    ASHEVILLE — Views of the Blue Ridge Mountains amaze onlookers, and diners flock to patios and rooftops in search of a picturesque backdrop. Still, Asheville is full of nature photos that don’t stop at the range.

    Don’t miss the restaurants and watering holes along the French Broad River that take advantage of their backyard beauty.

    Order a volley of tasty signature tacos, settle in with a plate of wood-grilled steak and let the beer flow at these riverside venues with a view.

    River Bar Getaway

    790 Riverside Drive, Asheville

    Relax at a laid-back tiki bar by the French Broad River.

    The Getaway River Bar, open to adults 21 and older, offers an indoor bar, outdoor tiki bar, dance floor, and outdoor patio. The riverside area of ​​Adirondack seating and fire pits enhances the experience by providing an unfiltered view of the river.

    The Getaway hosts themed food pop-ups and events, which are advertised on the bar’s website and social media sites.

    The hours are from 2 p.m. to 12 p.m. Monday to Thursday and from 2 p.m. to 2 a.m. on Friday and Saturday.

    For more details, visit escapadesurlariviere.com.

    New Belgian Brewery

    New Belgium Brewing is located at 21 Craven St. in Asheville and offers an optimal view of the French Broad River.

    21 Craven Street, Asheville

    Stroll along the French Broad River Greenway to the expansive New Belgium Brewing campus which features an array of views across the river.

    Bask in the sun sitting in an Adirondack chair. Gather under an umbrella-covered picnic table with friends on the open deck. Or perch on the deck for a higher vantage point to see kayakers, boaters, and tubers passing by.

    Sip on a pint of New Belgium’s Voodoo Ranger IPA series beer, Fat Tire or a tasty Fruit Smash Hard Seltzer. Order a light snack or full meal at a local food truck; the rotating program includes Bun Intended, Ciao Y’all, Lobster Dogs and Cecilia’s Kitchen.

    “The New Belgium River Bridge is one of the best in Asheville and a great place to enjoy a delicious libation, soak up the scenes of the River Arts District, listen to live music, and hang out with your favorite friends” , said Laura Ferenchik, events coordinator. “We can’t wait for our customers to experience our new and improved beer garden, which is set to debut this summer. Whether you are celebrating a big life event or just looking for a place to relax on a Monday, the New Belgium River Terrace is the perfect getaway.”

    New Belgium is open every day from 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Also find out which tours have resumed. For more details, visit newbelgium.com/visit/asheville/.

    Smoky Park Supper Club

    Smoky Park Supper Club is made up of shipping containers with a large outdoor patio facing the river.

    350 Riverside Drive, Asheville

    The Smoky Park Supper Club is where fine dining meets casual hangouts.

    The building, made up of shipping containers, offers indoor and outdoor dining. His Boat House is a popular open-air pavilion used as an event space.

    The Smoky Park Supper Club spills over onto the Wilma Dykeman Greenway in the River Arts District. Nearly 2 acres are given over to guests with picnic tables, lounge chairs, and a lawn as seating options. Additionally, a wrap-around deck provides additional space for viewing the river and communal dining area.

    The Smoky Park Supper Club menu features salads, desserts and gourmet burgers and specializes in entrees cooked over an open fire. A full bar menu is available.

    Hours are 4 p.m. to 9 p.m. Thursday through Saturday and 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. Sunday. To dine, at least one dining room guest must be a resident of North Carolina and registered for free membership. For more details, visit smokeypark.com.

    White Duck Taco Shop

    Diners enjoy White Duck Taco at their Riverside location in Asheville on August 18, 2020. 388 Riverside Drive.

    388 Riverside Drive, Asheville

    White Duck Taco Shop has several locations, including one in the River Arts District which overlooks the French Broad River.

    Inside, the fresh and eclectic cavernous interior design creates a mountain effect that is complemented by the waterway and greenway right outside her door.

    Picnic tables with canopy and umbrella are available on the expansive, pet-friendly waterfront patio between the French Broad River and the Wilma Dykeman Greenway.

    The menu is as fluid as the river, as the offerings are constantly changing to give diners something new every season. A few tacos to try are the bahn mi tofu and the jerk chicken. The bar offers draft beer, wine, sangria, fresh lime margaritas and more.

    White Duck Taco Shop is now open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily. For more details, visit whiteducktacoshop.com.

    Zillicoah Beer Co.

    Zillicoah Beer Co. and resident food truck Taqueria Munoz are located on the French Broad River in Woodfin, just outside of Asheville.

    870 Riverside Drive, Woodfin

    Zillicoah Beer Co. is unassuming with a warehouse district look to the front and an impressive view of the French Broad River to the rear. The brasserie dining room opens onto a covered patio with indoor and outdoor bar services. Zillicoah spans nearly 4 acres of remote land.

    “We have 878 feet of waterfront property. Something very few, if any, other places have so close to downtown,” said co-founder Jeremy Chassner. “It feels remote while being right in the middle of all the Asheville action.”

    A scattering of picnic tables provide a place to settle down for beer, food and conversation. On cooler nights, guests may be privy to a roaring bonfire.

    Zillicoah’s craft beer selection rotates, but recently introduced beers are rye lager, smoky Maibock, and a trio of pilsners that includes Japanese-style rice pilsner.

    Zillicoah is home to the Taqueria Muñoz food truck which operates regularly from the brewery, serving tacos, burritos, quesadillas and more.

    The brasserie is open to adults 21 and over Monday through Saturday, but every Sunday is family day with all ages welcome.

    Zillicoah is open 2 p.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 12 p.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday, and 12 p.m. to 8 p.m. Sunday. To learn more about Zillicoah Beer Co., visit zillicoahbeer.com.

    For more bites and sips along the city’s waterways, visit Homemade ground coffee bar, Waterfall Lounge and High Five Cafe.

    Tiana Kennell is a food and gastronomy reporter for the Asheville Citizen Times, part of the USA Today Network. Email him at [email protected] or follow her on Twitter/Instagram @PrincessOfPage. Please help support this kind of journalism with a subscription at the Citizen Times.

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    French fashion

    A former employee of a French fashion house files a complaint for discrimination

    A former employee of a French fashion house who worked at the company’s Beverly Hills store is suing her ex-employer, alleging she was fired for complaining about inappropriate remarks and behavior by management, including showing favoritism to young gay male employees.

    The lawsuit filed by Gulmira Isacoff in Los Angeles Superior Court against Lanvin alleges wrongful termination, hostile work environment, harassment, discrimination, retaliation, failure to prevent harassment, discrimination and retaliation and various violations of the state labor code.

    Isacoff, 50, is seeking unspecified compensatory and punitive damages in the lawsuit filed Friday. A representative for Lanvin did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

    Isacoff was hired in October 2018 as a sales associate at the Rodeo Drive store and quickly became one of the store’s top producers, building relationships with several high net worth customers, according to the lawsuit.

    However, trouble began for Isacoff in December 2019 with the hiring of Dean Salkin as the new assistant manager, a man who often lost his temper and yelled at the plaintiff and other female workers, the lawsuit says.

    Salkin called Isacoff “lazy” and said she better work at Macy’s, according to the lawsuit.

    Believing the comments were sexist, Isacoff complained to store manager Jordyn Wells and the company’s chief commercial officer Paolo Montorio, the lawsuit says. Nothing was changed, however, and Salkin continued his harassment, including making an obscene suggestion to the plaintiff about how she and her husband might celebrate Valentine’s Day 2020, the lawsuit says.

    After hearing the inappropriate remark several more times, Isacoff reached his breaking point and told Salkin, “Don’t you understand that you offend me and disrespect me? Please stop. I’m done with you,” according to the costume.

    Although the company’s human resources representatives in Paris ultimately fired Salkin, no one apologized to Isacoff or asked if there was anything they could do, the lawsuit says.

    In June 2020, Lanvin hired a new store manager, David Leonti, who seemed to be biased against Isacoff from the start and treated her disparagingly whenever they interacted, including saying he was “shocked”. to see a woman as old as she work for Lanvin, the suit declares.

    Over time, Isacoff discovered that Leonti had a strong preference for young gay male workers, treating them far better than any of the heterosexual female employees, the lawsuit says. When customers entered the store, Leonti almost always directed them to two gay workers and prevented Isacoff and other women from making a sale.

    After another employee complained when a gay employee allegedly assaulted her with a purse, Leonti told the woman her attacker was “walking around” and urged her to calm down, the lawsuit says.

    “In contrast, (Isacoff) was immediately suspended and terminated simply because she objected to and complained about Mr. Leonti’s discriminatory practices,” the suit states. “The juxtaposition is both shocking and revealing.”

    Lanvin is the third oldest French fashion house still in business.

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    French fashion

    Feds move to seize $63m Los Angeles mansion linked to Armenian bribery scandal

    For sale: a French chateau-style mansion in one of Los Angeles’ most exclusive neighborhoods, Holmby Hills, with 11 bedrooms, 27 bathrooms and an asking price of $63.5 million.

    At 33,652 square feet, it’s among the largest homes on the Southern California market, but there are a few issues. For one thing, the interior isn’t finished yet. And, this week, federal prosecutors in Los Angeles decided to seize the estate, alleging it was the result of corruption involving a powerful Armenian politician and his children.

    The US Department of Justice explained in a court filing how the South Mapleton Drive property – a short walk from the Playboy Mansion – was bought in 2011 for $14.4 million with kickbacks from the family of Gagik Khachatryan, the former Armenian finance minister, is a prominent businessman there.

    Khachatryan, 66, his two sons and the businessman all face criminal charges in Armenia; the businessman is accused of having paid more than 20 million dollars in bribes. A lawyer representing WRH Inc., the company that owns the home, did not respond to a message seeking comment.

    The Holmby Hills property went on the market on April 7, with real estate agency Hilton & Hyland announcing its “immaculate architecture, manicured landscaping and your chance to fully customize the interiors”.

    The backyard of the Holmby Hills mansion, which went on the market in April.

    (Hilton and Hyland)

    Listing agent, Richard Maslan of Hilton & Hyland, told The Times that a potential buyer will be able to finish the house in any style they choose. He claimed he was still looking for a buyer.

    “The FBI told me I could keep doing screenings,” Maslan said. “If we get an offer and the seller and the Department of Justice agree on a sale price, we can still sell it.”

    The residency saga begins in 2008, when Khachatryan took over as head of the State Revenue Committee, the government agency that assesses and collects taxes in Armenia. After that post, he served for two years as the country’s finance minister, but continued to oversee tax duties, earning him a reputation as a “super minister”, prosecutors said.

    To gain favorable tax treatment, businessman Sedrak Arustamyan allegedly entered into two fictitious loan agreements with Khachatryan’s adult sons – the first loan in 2009 for $7 million and another in 2011 for $13.4 million. millions of dollars. Both loans carried agreements specifying the payment due date and interest terms, but according to court filings, Arustamyan never received interest or principal on either. “assumed loans”.

    To use these alleged loans, Khachatryan and his sons formed several entities “to receive, disguise and conceal illegal bribe payments” along with their purchase of the Holmby Hills property. More than $13 million was wired by Arustamyan directly to West Coast Escrow’s Comerica Bank account, but days before the sale closed, he claimed he would not own the title and waived any claims on the money, according to court filings.

    Shortly after buying the house – which was previously owned by Lions Gate Entertainment executive Jon Feltheimer – the family razed the property and hired Richard Landry, a mega-mansion architect who has built trophies for celebrities such as Mark Wahlberg, Tom Brady and Wayne Gretzky.

    Khachatryan’s sons told Landry’s design team that they wanted their children to attend school in Los Angeles and asked the team to envision the house as their family’s residence, the documents show. filed by the court.

    An unfinished foyer inside a mansion with stairs on either side and large windows

    The interior of the mansion, designed by Richard Landry, was never completed.

    (Hilton and Hyland)

    Plans called for an elaborate compound, including bedrooms for Khachatryan, his two sons and daughter, as well as servants’ quarters, a wine cellar and a two-story library, according to court documents.

    Construction began in 2015, and although the house’s Franco-Norman exterior has been completed, along with the gardens, swimming pool and spa, the interior is incomplete.

    In 2016, when Khachatryan left office, the alleged corruption scheme was exposed and authorities uncovered millions of dollars in unpaid taxes owed by Arsutamyan’s companies, prosecutors say. In 2019, Khachatryan was charged with abuse of power and embezzlement. His sons and Arusatamyan were charged in 2020. The sons, Gurgen and Artyon, have since fled Armenia, according to court documents.

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    French fashion

    Make Mother’s Day Festive with Frieda’s French Crepes

    LOS ALAMITOS, California — Togetherness has taken on a whole new meaning in recent years, and the special bond that moms share with their families is something to celebrate. A well-designed brunch can be simple and satisfying this Mother’s Day, highlighting how much we appreciate all that moms do.

    This year, make your store the pancake destination by creating tips and displays that will transform your store into a turnkey brunch destination. Include Frieda’s French Crepesspring vegetables like asparagus and bell peppers, and a variety of specialty cheeses to help shoppers answer, “How should we celebrate mom?”

    “When I think of the perfect Mother’s Day food, I think easy, loving, and delicious. My kids want to feel like they’ve ‘made’ something, but sometimes that can lead to bigger messes to clean up” , explains Cindy Sherman, director of marketing and innovation at Frieda’s Brand Produce. “One way around this problem is with Frieda’s French Breakfast Pancakes. My husband can whip up a batch of scrambled eggs, and the kids can wrap them in the pancakes and pile them on top of toppings like ripe avocados, apple slices, Brie cheese, and more.

    This year, it’s all about embracing unity. Let the team at Frieda work with you to create excitement in your stores, because moms (and really all of us) deserve a little more style this spring. Here’s to moms everywhere!

    About Frieda’s Inc.

    Frieda’s Branded Produce has been inspiring new culinary experiences for friends, families and foodies around the world since 1962. From kiwi fruit and dragon fruit to Stokes Purple® sweet potatoes and habanero peppers, Frieda’s has introduced more than 200 fruits and vegetables unique in the US market. . Founded by the late produce industry pioneer Dr. Frieda Rapoport Caplan, subject of the 2015 documentary “Fear No Fruit”, the company is owned and operated by Frieda’s daughters, Karen Caplan and Jackie Caplan Wiggins, in the Orange County, California. Find Frieda on Facebook, @FriedasProduceand Friedas.com. Inspire. To taste. Love.

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    French fashion

    Régine, whose nightclub gave a new dawn to nightlife, dies at 92

    She was born Rachelle Zylberberg in Belgium just as the Great Depression hit: a Jewish child abandoned as an infant by her single mother and left alone at age 12 when her father, a drunken Polish refugee, was arrested by the Nazis in France . She hid in a convent, where she was beaten. After the war, she sold bras on the streets of Paris and vowed to become rich and famous one day.

    In 1957, calling herself Régine, she borrowed money and opened a nightclub in the basement in a Parisian alley. She couldn’t afford live music, so patrons danced to a jukebox. Business was bad and the young owner, in a decision that would have shaken social historians for decades, concluded that the problem was the jukebox.

    “When the music stopped, you could hear kisses in the corners,” she told the BBC, using British slang for hugging and kissing. “It killed the atmosphere. Instead, I set up two turntables so there was no gap in the music. I was a bartender, doorman, restroom attendant, hostess, and I I also put the records in. It was the very first disco and I was the very first disc jockey in the club.

    Thus began Chez Régine, widely regarded as the world’s premier nightclub. In the 1970s, its owner built a $500 million empire of 23 clubs in Europe, the Middle East and the Americas, including Regine’s in Manhattan, the most famous nightclub of its time, welcoming crowds stretch limo arts and entertainment stars, society celebrities, princes, playboys and Beautiful People.

    Régine, whose chain of clubs peaked in the 80s and died out in the 90s, victim of an open drug culture and radical changes in the club scene, died on Sunday. She was 92 years old.

    Her death was announced on Instagram by her friend French actor and comedian Pierre Palmade, who did not specify the cause or say where she died.

    Plump and effervescent empresaria with flamboyant red hair, Régine was known to all as “the queen of the night”. With great fanfare, she opened her New York club in 1976 on the ground floor of Delmonico’s Hotel, at the intersection of 59th Street and Park Avenue. She moved into the hotel’s penthouse suite. The city had just gone through a fiscal crisis, but for its posh clientele, that didn’t matter.

    Régine has made exclusivity an art. She attracted privileged classes by selling 2,000 club memberships for $600 each and requiring tuxedos and evening dresses to enter. She installed a flashing ‘disco full’ sign outside to discourage hoi polloi and a sliding peephole at the door to inspect suppliants for admission to the pounding music and gold-plated glamor of her Valhalla.

    She kissed celebrities: Salvador Dalí, Yves Saint Laurent, Karl Lagerfeld, Joan Collins, Andy Warhol, Milos Forman, Mick Jagger, Anthony Quinn, Brooke Shields. No one was admitted on heavy cover charges after the New York State Liquor Authority threatened to sue her for ‘social discrimination’. She handled the advertising masterfully. She once wore a live boa constrictor, a gift from Federico Fellini.

    On any given night, you might see Françoise Sagan, Brigitte Bardot, Diane von Furstenberg, Ben Vereen, Hubert de Givenchy and Stevie Wonder in a crowd with Audrey Hepburn, Ava Gardner and Robert Mitchum, with Jack Nicholson and John Gotti conspiring at a table. Régine was strict about the application of her dress code. His friend Mick Jagger has already been refused entry for showing up in trainers.

    Régine danced all night with Gene Kelly, then disappeared with him for 15 days. “Yeah, we had private relationships,” she told Elle in 2011.

    She remembers the wondering face of John Wayne when they first met: “Are you the Regine?

    And Robin Leach, columnist for the rich and famous, told him that reporting from Paris was a breeze: “You would just go to Regine’s every night and wait for the princesses to arrive.”

    Régine energizes the evenings with “happenings”. One in Paris was a “Jean Harlow evening”. Patrons in platinum wigs arrived in white limos, walked down a white-carpeted sidewalk, and strolled around in white tuxedos and skin-tight white dresses with white feather boas.

    Saluting July 14 in New York, the patriots included Governor Hugh L. Carey, Ethel Kennedy, Margaux Hemingway, Elizabeth Taylor and John Warner (then Chairman of the United States Bicentennial Commission) and Senator George S. McGovern, the 1972 Democratic presidential candidate.

    “If anyone had any doubts about celebrating an event that theoretically ended the privileged class, in a room about 40 times more crowded than the Bastille keep on that fateful day, no one voiced their doubts” , reported the New York Times. “To be fair, it was somewhat difficult to make anything more than isolated words audible.”

    In the late 1970s, Régine’s expansion reached its peak. Besides flagships in Paris and New York, it had clubs in Monte Carlo, Rio de Janeiro, São Paulo, Saint Tropez, London, Dusseldorf, Los Angeles, Miami, Cairo, Kuala Lumpur and many other cities. All were in privileged places. His marketing analyzes included lists of each city’s elite, to be cultivated as club members and financiers.

    Asked about funding her clubs, she insisted that all she invested was her name, never her money. Some of her clubs, she explained, were franchises owned by local entrepreneurs who paid up to $500,000 and gave her stock discounts to use her name. She also owned restaurants, cafes and a magazine; sold lines of clothing and perfumes; and sponsored dance classes and ocean cruises.

    She was an entertainer by the side, with small roles in films including ‘The Seven-Per-Cent Solution’ (1976), a Sherlock Holmes tale starring Nicol Williamson and Laurence Olivier, and was moderately popular singer in Paris and New York. She had a hit with a French version of “I Will Survive” by Gloria Gaynor in 1978, and made her singing debut at Carnegie Hall in 1970.

    “Although Régine had a strong, dark voice, she made little effort to use it as a flexible instrument,” wrote Robert Sherman in a review for The Times. “Régine’s sassy appearance and lively stage manners cover a multitude of inflexibilities, and the sheer exuberance of her performance was, in itself, more than enough to seduce.”

    Régine’s popularity in New York and around the world gradually faded in the 1980s, overtaken by trendier clubs like Studio 54, the Manhattan nightclub founded in 1977 by Steve Rubell and Ian Schrager. It has also attracted celebrities, but also a sex-and-drug clientele and hanger crowds looking for a glimpse of decadent chic.

    “At the end of the decade, the party began to calm down”, New York magazine reported in a retrospective on Régine’s in 1999. “A new generation of clubbers found their club stuffy and stuffy, and even Régine’s most loyal loyalists found it hard to resist the sexy allure of Studio 54.”

    “You didn’t feel like you could start using cocaine on the tables at Regine’s,” said Bob Colacello, the author and social critic, in New York. “She wasn’t throwing quaaludes at movie stars. She didn’t have shirtless bartenders. She didn’t have what people wanted when times changed.

    The woman behind Régine’s mystique was born in Etterbeek, Belgium on December 26, 1929, to emigrants from Poland, Joseph Zylberberg and Tauba Rodstein. In an unhappy and unstable childhood, she never knew her mother, who abandoned the family and went to Argentina, but remembered her father as a charming gambler and drinker who ran a small restaurant in Paris. Rachelle, as she was called in an interview with the Boston Globe, had a brother, Maurice, and a half-sister, Evelyne.

    As a child, she served at the tables of her father’s restaurant near Montmartre. After the occupation of Paris by the Germans in 1940, his father was arrested and sent to a prison camp. She hid for two years in a Catholic convent, where she said she was beaten by other girls because she was Jewish. Her father escaped and, according to one account, she was briefly held hostage by the Gestapo.

    After the war, she dreamed of a glamorous life and sometimes glimpsed what it might look like. “When I saw Rita Hayworth and Aly Khan, in the center of all eyes at the best table of a chic restaurant in Deauville, I swore to myself one day to sit where they were”, he said. she told the New York Post in 1973.

    At 16, she married Leon Rothcage. They had a son, Lionel Rotcage, and divorced after a few years. In 1969, she married Roger Choukroun, who helped her manage her properties. They divorced in 2004. Her son died in 2006.

    Complete information about the survivors was not immediately available.

    By the late 1990s, Régine’s international empire had shrunk to a handful of clubs in France, a location in Istanbul, and a restaurant-lounge in New York called Rage.

    For the past few years, she’s lived in Paris, managed her affairs, supported charities, thrown the occasional party, and seen old friends. In 2015, she published a book of photographs and reminiscences, “Mes Nuits, Mes Rencontres”. Photos showed her with Charles Aznavour, Oscar de la Renta, Diana Vreeland, Michael Jackson and many more.

    “My son is the only thing I miss,” she told Women’s Wear Daily. “I don’t want people to feel sorry for me. I do not care. I want them to laugh with me and be happy.

    Alex Traub contributed reporting.

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    French fashion

    Overlooked No More: Ady Fidelin, black model “hiding in plain sight”

    This article is part of Overlooked, a series of obituaries of notable people whose deaths, beginning in 1851, went unreported in The Times.

    In a series of photographs from the summer of 1937, a group of close friends are captured enjoying a laid-back vacation in the south of France, swimming, relaxing and having fun. Most holidaymakers were artists, among them Man Ray, Picasso and Dora Maar (who was also Picasso’s lover at the time).

    Part of this circle was a vivacious woman whose name is not well known, but who was nonetheless a key participant: Ady Fidelin, who also went by Adrienne. In the photos, she stands out for her beauty and also because, unlike her fellow vacationers, she was black.

    Fidelin, a dancer, model and occasional actress, was Man Ray’s girlfriend and also posed frequently for him. In hundreds of her photographs, she dances or sits, sometimes holding props, like hula hoops and hats. Often she is naked or topless. In each image, his exuberance shines through.

    Fidelin also posed for Man Ray’s circle of artists, including the photographer Lee Millera former girlfriend of Man Ray; Roland Penrose, who would later marry Miller; British surrealist artist Eileen Agar; and the artist Alfred Otto Wolfgang Schulze, who went through wols.

    “She was a muse not just for Man Ray,” Andrew Strauss, consultant at Sotheby’s and chairman of the Man Ray Expert Committee, said over the phone, “but a muse for artists in general.”

    In a striking image from that 1937 trip, Man Ray photographed Fidelin standing outside against a wall, naked except for flat shoes, bold earrings and a chunky chain-link necklace, with a long washboard spread over her legs like a metal maxiskirt. Her image in the photo bore a striking resemblance to a Picasso painting made shortly afterwards, “Woman Seated on a Yellow and Pink Background, II”.

    “Ady is so present in the hundreds of photographs from this summer — photographs by Man Ray and Roland Penrose and Lee Miller and Eileen Agar,” said Wendy A. Grossman, senior fellow at the Metropolitan Museum of Art who has lectured and writes on Fidelin and who discovered the link between painting and photography. “It was inevitable that she would also be represented by Picasso.”

    And yet “notably manifest in both photography and painting”, Grosman wrote: in 2020 in the journal Modernism/modernity, “it is the contradictory way in which the black female body has been folded into the modernist project as paradoxically ultramodern and ultra-‘primitive’ and objectified through a male gaze”.

    Moreover, Grossman pointed out, Fidelin was “hidden in plain sight”, having never been identified as the subject of Picasso’s painting. But thanks in part to Grossman’s efforts, Fidelin is beginning to gain recognition, including in a 2019 exhibition on black models at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris.

    For Fidelin, nothing was as groundbreaking as a photo of her that appeared in Harper’s Bazaar on September 15, 1937. It is believed to be the first time a black model has appeared in a major American fashion magazine. Today, however, the article would undoubtedly raise eyebrows. Under the title “The Bushongo of Africa sends his hats to Paris” are three photographs of white women wearing African hats. Fidelin, who was also wearing an African hat, appears on the opposite page, separated from the others, it seems, but in a much larger picture.

    This editorial positioning and “Fidelin’s assimilation of identity into a homogenizing notion of blackness literally and figuratively sets her apart from similarly crowned white European role models,” Grossman wrote.

    Casimir Joseph Adrienne Fidelin was born on March 4, 1915 in Pointe-a-Pitre, on the island of Grande-Terre in Guadeloupe, the French-ruled archipelago in the Caribbean. She was one of six children of Maxime Louis Fidelinwho worked in a bank, and Matilda Fidelin, housewife. Ady’s mother died in 1928 in a hurricane; his father died a few years later. Fidelin then emigrated to France, where a brother already lived.

    The Paris of the 1930s was, for its time, racially inclusive, especially in Man Ray’s bohemian scene. Black artists like Aisha Goblet and Ruby Richards were popular, and Man Ray also photographed them. It’s unclear exactly how he met Fidelin, who was 25 years younger than him, but for him their relationship was stabilizing and optimistic, especially as World War II ensued.

    Fidelin, writes Man Ray in a letter to Penrose, “prevents me from being pessimistic.”

    “She does everything,” he says, “from polishing my shoes and bringing my breakfast to painting in the background in my large canvases! All to the tune of biguine or rumba.

    According to the story, when Fidelin first met Picasso, who was a friend of Man Ray, she “came up to him, threw her arms around his neck and said, ‘I heard that you were a very good painter,’ Eileen Agar wrote. in his autobiography.

    She was, Grossman said, “not intimidated by anyone.”

    Fidelin was more than a pretty face. In 1940, during the war, Man Ray, Jewish and American (born Emmanuel Radnitzky in Philadelphia), left for the United States. Fidelin stayed behind, helping to protect many of his belongings, including negatives and prints.

    “She kept everything, the whole studio,” Francis M. Naumann, an art historian and author of several books on Man Ray and his close friend Marcel Duchamp, said in an interview.

    She wasn’t responsible for all the artwork – some was taken out of France, some was given to another friend – but, without her preservation, Strauss said, “we’d be missing a whole piece paintings, dada and surrealist drawings and objects.

    And she was “quite smart”, said Ami Bouhassane, director of Farleys House & Gallery, which oversees the Lee Miller Archive, particularly in how she “navigated the strangeness of the Surrealist group and its politics”.

    Fidelin also had a more pensive side – she used to stop at cemeteries from time to time. “It wasn’t that she was particularly pessimistic,” Agar wrote, “but rather that the cemeteries gave her a great sense of peace and calm.”

    After Man Ray left, the couple wrote letters to each other – he called her ‘my darling love’ and she told him: ‘You still miss a certain little black girl very much’ – but most of the notes weren’t. not received, partly because of the chaos of war. By the time Man Ray returned to Paris for a visit in 1947, the two had other partners. Fidelin was dating André Art, a businessman, and had begun to drift away from his circle of artist friends, many of whom had dispersed during the war.

    She married Art in 1958 and they moved to Albi, about 450 miles south of Paris, where they lived in council housing. At one point, she had health issues that required major surgery. Throughout her later years, she kept a low profile. In 1998, when a former assistant to Man Ray was asked about her, the assistant thought she was dead.

    Fidelin died on February 5, 2004, in an assisted care facility not far from her home. She was 88 years old. No major newspaper reported his death.

    “She was basically adrift of the creative community that she was such an integral part of,” Grossman said. “The end of her life was very distinct and far from the spotlight she had been involved with.”

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    French fashion

    Sandro partners with Fairly Made

    Fashion brand Sandro is partnering with French start-up Fairly Made to offer its customers detailed and transparent information on the traceability of its creations as it seeks to commit to more responsible and sustainable fashion.

    Fairly Made allows fashion brands to integrate French and European regulations to improve their social and environmental impact and collects information from all suppliers involved at all stages of the supply chain of SMCP group brand products to calculate a traceability score.

    From the spring/summer 2022 collection, Sandro will display a QR-code on the product label or on the product page of its website to present consumers with all the information relating to the suppliers involved at all stages of the supply chain. of our products in order to offer full transparency.

    The information will cover everything from the origin of the raw materials, the manufacturing and processing plants, and the kilometers traveled before arriving at the warehouse. The traceability sheet will detail all these steps and the assigned traceability score.

    The traceability project will initially only be available on select pieces, the brand explained, but they plan to ensure that 100% of its collections are traceable by 2025.

    This is Sandro’s latest initiative as part of his transition to more responsible and sustainable fashion. She launched Sandro Second Hand, a platform dedicated to the resale and purchase of pieces from past collections and introduced a capsule of upcycled pajamas in 2021, while in 2022 she finds that almost 50% of her women’s collections and men are eco-responsible.

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    French fashion

    Cannes: Christina Aguilera and Ricky Martin will perform at the amfAR gala

    Christina Aguilera, Ricky Martin and Charli XCX will perform at this year’s amfAR at the Cannes Film Festival. Robert De Niro will also be honored at the 28th annual event.

    amfAR, the Foundation for AIDS Research, hosts the Cannes Film Festival fashion show every year. This year’s show will be hosted by French fashion editor and amfAR supporter Carine Roitfeld, best known for her work as a former editor-in-chief of Vogue France and for founding “CR Fashion Book”.

    The theme for this year’s fashion show will be “Let’s get married” and will feature designs by Oscar de la Renta, Loewe, Louis Vuitton, Louis Vuitton Men, Givenchy, Gucci, Chanel, Saint Laurent, De Fursac, Balenciaga, Fendi , Tom Ford, Jacquemus, Valentino, Giambattista Valli, Armani, Alaia, Burberry, Versace, Alled Martinez, Monot, Nensi Dojaka and Dior, among others. The looks from the fashion show will be available for sale at a live auction during the event, hosted by Swiss art dealer Simon de Pury. The auction will also feature contemporary art and luxury items. All proceeds will go to amfAR research.

    The organization also announced the gala chairs: Baz Luhrmann, Carine Roitfeld, Caroline Scheufele, Cynthia Erivo, Ever Gabo Anderson, Kate Hudson, LaKeith Stanfield, Laura Linney, Lauren Remington Platt, Milla Jovovich, Sam Bankman-Fried, Vanessa Hudgens , Michelle Williams, Mohammed Al-Turki, amfAR Board Co-Chairs T. Ryan Greenawalt, Kevin McClatchy and amfAR Trustee Vin Roberti.

    The amfAR gala will take place at the Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc on May 26. The Cannes Film Festival will take place from May 17 to 28.

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    French fashion

    Sports News Roundup: Soccer-Samba style propels Newcastle to 3-0 win over Norwich; Football-PSG wins record 10th French title despite Lens draw and more

    Here is a summary of current sports news briefs.

    Football-samba style propels Newcastle to 3-0 win over Norwich

    Newcastle United’s Brazilian contingent came to the fore as Joelinton netted a brace and Bruno Guimaraes netted once in an emphatic 3-0 Premier League win over struggling Norwich City at Carrow Road on Saturday. The win puts Newcastle in the top half of the table and is another sign of their rapid improvement under Eddie Howe, who steered the side to their first league victory at Norwich in 28 years.

    Football-PSG wins record 10th French title despite Lens draw

    Paris St Germain won a record 10th French league title after stuttering a 1-1 draw at home to 10-man RC Lens on Saturday. Lionel Messi’s goal was canceled out by Corentin Jean as PSG remained on 78 points, 16 ahead of second-placed Olympique Marseille, who play their late game at the Stade de Reims on Sunday.

    Soccer-Stuttering Tottenham held by Brentford deadlocked

    Tottenham Hotspur’s stuttering first four ambitions suffered another blow when they finished second in a 0-0 draw with Brentford in the Premier League on Saturday. After seeing Arsenal displace them from fourth place earlier in the day, Tottenham would have picked it up with a win, but they were lackluster and were lucky to earn a point.

    Football-Leicester held in check by Aston Villa

    An below-average Leicester City played out a 0-0 draw with Aston Villa at home in the Premier League on Saturday, a result that ended a four-game losing streak for Steven Gerrard’s visiting side. Leicester looked more likely to open the scoring early but created few clear openings, with James Maddison’s curling free-kick the Foxes’ best effort in a first half that was uninspiring from both sides.

    NBA roundup: Jazz edges out Mavericks to tie playoffs

    Rudy Gobert made a key rebound and an even bigger dunk with 11 seconds remaining to propel the Utah Jazz to a 100-99 win over the Dallas Mavericks on Saturday afternoon in Salt Lake City. Jordan Clarkson led Utah in scoring with 25 points, Donovan Mitchell added 23 points, seven assists and six rebounds, and Gobert finished with 17 points and 15 boards in a game that nearly got away.

    Football-PSG’s Leonardo admits making mistakes as fans refuse to celebrate league title

    Paris St Germain sporting director Leonardo has admitted mistakes were made after frustrated fans chose not to celebrate the capital club winning a record-breaking 10th French league title on Saturday. Rather than the usual shouts and cheers that mark such occasions, on Saturday PSG supporters quickly left the Parc des Princes just 10 minutes after their club lifted the Ligue 1 trophy after a 1-1 draw with RC Lens.

    Boxing-Fury bounces back to retire in style with TKO win

    Tyson Fury emerged unscathed from a turbulent fight week to cement his place among heavyweight boxing greats with a stunning TKO win over Dillian Whyte in what ‘The Gypsy King’ said would be his last fight. Fury faced a barrage of questions about his relationship with Daniel Kinahan, his former adviser and one of three men named leaders of the Kinahan organized crime gang recently sanctioned by US authorities.

    Motor racing-Hamilton quashes title hopes after new low at Imola

    Lewis Hamilton gave up hopes of winning a record eighth Formula 1 championship this year after falling 50 points behind Ferrari’s Charles Leclerc at Imola on Saturday.

    “Obviously we’re not fighting for this championship,” the Briton told Sky Sports television after finishing 14th in a Saturday sprint that set the starting grid for Sunday’s Emilia-Romagna Grand Prix.

    Boxing-Fury will only return for a unification fight, says his wife

    Tyson Fury will only return to the ring for a title unification bout, wife Paris says after ‘The Gypsy King’ retained the WBC heavyweight world championship with a technical knockout victory over Dillian Whyte in this which he called his final fight. Fury, who landed a right uppercut to knock Whyte down in the sixth round at a sold-out Wembley Stadium, said after the fight he would stick to his promise to wife Paris to retire.

    Soccer-Man City keep pace in title race, Arsenal go fourth

    Manchester City opened a four-point lead in the Premier League title race by beating Watford 5-1 and Arsenal took the lead in the battle for fourth place on Saturday.

    Brazilian Gabriel Jesus scored four goals as City pressured to pursue Liverpool ahead of their Merseyside derby on Sunday against struggling Everton.

    (With agency contributions.)

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    French fashion

    Anger over overhaul of French diplomatic corps as war rages in Ukraine – POLITICO

    Press play to listen to this article

    PARIS — In the final days of the French presidential election, it was perhaps the last-minute controversy that President Emmanuel Macron would have liked to avoid.

    The publication last weekend of a decree news of the merger of France’s 800-strong diplomatic corps into a single larger pool of senior officials sparked outrage from politicians and generally loyal diplomats. They argue the move is a first step towards eliminating the country’s traditional career diplomats – just when they are urgently needed with the war in Ukraine.

    For some, the decree is the culmination of Macron’s distrust of a diplomatic corps he considers elitist and homogeneous. The risk, according to many, is to see France drifting towards a model inspired by the United States of ambassadors who are political or prestigious figures close to the president, but who are less able to manage an increasingly volatile geopolitical situation. .

    “Being a diplomat is a real job, it involves skill and experience in the field,” said Sylvie Bermann, a former French ambassador who served in China, the United Kingdom and Russia. “We could very well expand recruitment and diversify it without destroying the diplomatic corps.”

    She added that the decree risks seeing the political recruitment of ambassadors who then delegate their work to MPs who do not necessarily know how to represent their president in a foreign country.

    The decree indicates that France will gradually abolish the current status of career diplomats, merging it into a single civil service status which was created last year, and under which they can expect to work in different departments during their career. Several diplomats said it is unclear how the new statute will affect the mechanisms for appointing diplomats.

    Until now, French ambassadors have been career diplomats who often joined the foreign ministry after graduating from the elite civil service school, the École nationale d’administration (ENA), or passing competitions that propelled them towards a career exclusively in the French foreign service.

    “With the reform, we will create a more concentrated and diverse core of civil servants, with perhaps an agricultural expert who can become an ambassador,” said a government official.

    The decree is part of a broader plan launched when Macron took office in 2017 to make the French civil service less elite and more socially diverse. It also included the closure of the highly selective ENA, which has trained the country’s ruling class since 1945, and its replacement with a new Civil Service Institute (ISP).

    Prime Minister Jean Castex wrote in an editorial published in Le Figaro last year that the French civil service needed to be “modernised”, citing “a growing gap” between elite civil servants making careers in Paris-based ministries and the rest of the country.

    Macron against diplomats

    But diplomats and politicians warn that the decree risks undermining France’s diplomatic model – and one of the largest networks in the world – and comes at a time of heightened diplomatic tensions with Russia’s invasion of Ukraine.

    “The door is now open for American-style nominations”, tweeted Gérard Araud, former French ambassador to the United States, referring to appointments made for political or financial reasons.

    Former US President Donald Trump, for example, appointed Gordon Sondland, an American businessman and Republican Party donor, ambassador to the EU, a move that raised eyebrows in Brussels.

    Far-right presidential candidate Marine Le Pen was quick to criticize Decree. “He [Macron] wants to replace civil servants with friends,” she tweeted, adding that if elected on Sunday – in the second round of the presidential election – she would “restore diplomatic status based on merit and national interest” .

    Diplomats also pointed to Macron’s strained relations with them, recalling his 2019 warning about the risk of the French diplomatic corps becoming a “deep state”. Diplomats say they interpreted the president’s criticism at the time as directed at those who previously disagreed with him and who sought to strengthen ties with Russian President Vladimir Putin.

    “Macron’s approach to diplomats has been totally inadequate,” said a senior French diplomat, who spoke on condition of anonymity because they are not authorized to speak publicly to the media. “France is not Turkey and there is no deep state against the Elysée in French diplomacy.”

    “We are deeply loyal,” added the diplomat.

    Passing the decree at this time, with the war in Ukraine, is considered unfortunate because French diplomats are actively engaged in it and Macron’s efforts to be on the front line of negotiations with Putin mean he needs their support..

    Etienne de Poncins, the French ambassador to Ukraine, was one of seven European ambassadors who remained in the country weeks after the Russian invasion. “There are diplomats in Ukraine where bombs are falling…”, declared the senior French diplomat. “It takes experience, it takes field work, and let’s not forget the knowledge of foreign languages… [diplomats] become specialists over time and because of the diversity of situations.

    On Wednesday, Foreign Minister Jean-Yves Le Drian pledged to ease tensions and reassure diplomats that their expertise would not be set aside and that ministry support for diplomats with particular expertise in a language or domain would be maintained.

    “It is clear that diplomacy remains a specific profession in which one can develop a career,” added Le Drian in an interview with the French weekly Journal du Dimanche.

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    French fashion

    Mobilier National continues the French style and it’s fascinating to take a look inside | Architectural Summary

    Since French archivist Hervé Lemoine took over the reins of the organization in 2018, Mobilier National has sought to engage with a wider audience and give greater visibility to the national contemporary design scene. Now in the second year of an active acquisitions campaign, it has lined up potential new nominations from 232 designers for just over 50 coveted spots in the national collection.

    If the question is: What is French design in 2022?the resounding answer seems to be: Not necessarily what you expect.

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    “We did a lot of publicity on this initiative to interest designers and creators who may not have been aware of this type of acquisition program,” explains Lemoine. “There was no age limit, only that they worked in France, French or not. We were looking for original, already existing pieces that had been produced entirely under their control.

    Variety among these starters was paramount. “We need tables, desks, chairs, usable rooms,” explains Lemoine. “The question is: how do you create original pieces today with a strong presence and personality? There was such a diversity of styles, shapes and colors.

    The biggest surprise of the campaign came, Lemoine says, when the majority of nominations came from areas outside the nation’s capital. “Seventy percent of the selected designers work outside of Paris,” he specifies. “Having so many candidates from workshops that we didn’t know was a breakthrough for us, and now we will follow them and see what they continue to do.”

    “The idea of ​​French design may seem exclusive, but for us it resonates and now supports social movements,” say designers Mr. & Mr., whose work was added to the Mobilier national this year.

    Photo: Thibaut Chapotot / Courtesy of Mobilier National
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    The end of the suit: Has Covid ended the essential of men’s fashion? | Suits for men

    SImon Cundey’s family has been making men’s suits for seven generations, taking 37 measurements of each customer during the Great Depression and both World Wars. The tailor’s arsenal of chalk, scissors and thread were put to work every day of the week from the company’s inception in 1806, until March 2020, when the government ordered nearly everyone to work from home.

    “If there’s one thing you can’t do at home, it’s measuring people for suits,” says Cundey, who works for his family business, Henry Poole & Co, tailors on Savile Row in London since his early twenties. “The pandemic is, by far, the worst crisis the company has ever faced. It’s far worse than the Great Depression or wars ever were.

    “In wartime, Allied forces were here, so we made uniforms for Americans and Canadians, and we could still see customers face to face,” he says, as we chat on leather sofas in front of a roaring log fire in the shop. , surrounded by 48 framed terms from the royal family and other world leaders.

    Post-lockdown, Cundey and his team of tailors, undercutters, makers of trousers, jackets and vests are back at work at 15 Savile Row – the street known around the world as the home of the best menswear on extent – ​​and customers come back through the doors. But there aren’t as many as before the pandemic, and fewer than before the 2008 financial crisis. It’s a story repeated up and down “in the row,” and at other tailors across the country, as well as at high street retailers from Marks & Spencer to Reiss, and online businesses from Mr Porter to Asos.

    Statements of falling popularity don’t carry much more authority than those from the Office for National Statistics (ONS), which last month removed the combinations from the basket of goods it uses to calculate the annual inflation rate. The government’s statistics agency said the suits, which had appeared in the basket every year since 1947, were not purchased often enough to appear in the basket of 733 representative goods and services selected to measure the cost of living in the UK. They have been replaced in the ONS basket with a ‘formal jacket or blazer’.

    Inside Gieves & Hawkes on Savile Row, London. Photograph: Adrian Lourie/Alamy

    Nick Paget, menswear editor and “trend forecaster” at consumer insights firm WGSN, says “many men have simply fallen in love with suits, if they ever did.”

    Paget, who has worked in menswear for more than 20 years, says suits were on the decline long before the pandemic, with Dress Fridays slowly reducing office paperwork. “But 18 months of hanging around the house in joggers and hoodies has definitely sped things up,” he says, adding that people just need less suits than they used to.

    “When a guy had to wear a suit to work, it wasn’t just one. He would have a number of suits on rotation and at the cleaners.

    Men, says Paget, are no longer afraid to tell their bosses what they want to wear to work. “I expect that as part of the back-to-work agreement, people will be expected to wear less formal suits,” he says. “I personally hate wearing a collared shirt, and I know I’m not alone.”

    Figures from market research firm Kantar Worldpanel confirm this. He revealed spending on men’s suits rose from £460million in 2017 to £157million in 2020, before recovering slightly to £279million last year. The costume is replaced, Paget says, not with joggers, jeans, or hoodies, but with “chore jackets.”

    Asked to explain himself, he replies: “It’s really in the name.” These are jackets first designed for craftsmen to wear for DIY, painting or plumbing. Originating in the late 1800s in France, where they were worn by farmhands and laborers, the jackets were nicknamed “bleu de travail” or “worker’s blues” for their deep indigo hue.

    “Comfortable and practical workwear has been elevated to office wear, especially in the creative industries,” says Paget. “Fabrics and details have been improved, but basically it’s clothes an old-school plumber would have worn.”

    M&S, which cut the number of stores selling suits to 110 across its 245 largest locations, credited the workwear trend with helping it return to profit on a half-yearly basis.

    Wes Taylor, director of menswear at M&S, says the suit has been in decline since at least 2019, when the market for them fell by 7%. As a result, the company focuses on “separates” – pants and suit jackets sold separately so they can be mixed and matched with less formal garments.

    Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row, the family business of Simon Cundey.
    Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row, the family business of Simon Cundey. Photography: Roger Hutchings/Corbis/Getty Images

    “The pandemic has accelerated the trend towards more casual attire — especially for the office, where, for many, chinos and shirt are the new uniform,” Taylor says.

    Gieves & Hawkes, Savile Row’s best-known tailor, which dates back to 1771, may soon disappear completely. Trinity Group, the Chinese owner, collapsed into liquidation earlier this year after failing to find a buyer for the tailor.

    Like most others, Gieves & Hawkes began by selling military uniforms to army officers. It operates from No 1 Savile Row, the former headquarters of the Royal Geographical Society and is by far the largest store on the street. Under Chinese ownership, the company has expanded to 58 stores in 25 cities, which experts say may be why it has been a tough sell. “The ubiquity has somewhat diminished the exclusivity,” says Paget.

    Carrier Company Norfolk work jacket.
    Carrier Company Norfolk work jacket. Photo: Andy Hook/Courtesy of Carrier Company

    Gieves & Hawkes isn’t the only struggling tailor. Hardy Amies, the firm founded by Sir Edwin Hardy Amies in 1946 and specializing in costumes for British Olympians, went bankrupt in 2019. City blouse maker Thomas Pink went bankrupt in 2020 before being bought out of the former owner, luxury conglomerate LVMH ( Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) by former JD Sports executive Nick Preston.

    Andy Saxton, director of business intelligence for fashion at Kantar, doesn’t expect the office suit market to pick up, but believes people are more willing to spend money on suits than ever before. weddings and parties. “Casuality has been growing for a few years now,” he says, while wearing a navy sweater with dark jeans. “The suit market has fallen by 40% in five years, I don’t think it will ever return to this level. But I think there are huge opportunities to dress up for celebrations – I feel like everyone is going to go really big for weddings.

    Saxton says people demand clothes to “work harder” for them. “They don’t want to spend money buying something just for the office,” he says. “They want their clothes to be flexible and versatile: ‘Yes, I can wear it to work, but I could also wear it on a night out with my friends.’ Now it’s about blurring the lines between work and life.

    On Black Friday in the UK, suits were the most discounted item, with 54% of all tailoring items marked down, according to data from WGSN Instock.

    At Henry Poole, Cundey believes society is on the verge of a mass “period of smartening” that will ripple through all walks of life as we return to life as it was before the pandemic. “It’s like the big beast waking up from a slumber,” he said. “As people return to work and re-engage socially, they will remember why they have to be smart.

    “Soon there will be Ascot and Wimbledon, of course,” he says. “But for everyone, there’s always a time when you have to dress up to some degree.

    “When your wife or partner dresses up and you go out in a hoodie and sweatpants, you have to ask yourself, would they be happy with you? The answer is no, of course.”

    A tailor's apprentice at Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row.
    A tailor’s apprentice at Henry Poole & Co on Savile Row. Photography: RJT Photography/Alamy

    Cundey believes the reason many young men don’t like suits is because they’re the wrong size. “A lot of people say they hate wearing costumes, but that’s probably because they were forced to wear one that didn’t fit them in school,” he says. “I too would hate to wear them if they didn’t fit. Rule #1 is that you shouldn’t smell a suit. It should feel natural, there should be no tension or looseness.

    Wearing the wrong suit, says Cundey, is worse than not wearing one at all. “Remember when [Mark] Facebook’s Zuckerberg got hauled in front of Congress? said Cundey. “He looked like a naughty schoolboy because his suit was three sizes too small.” The New York Times dubbed it the “I’m sorry suit”.

    Cundey, who wears a suit every day, has her sights set on just about every famous man and their wardrobe. Criticizing Boris Johnson, he says, is too easy, but he tries anyway. “Obviously there could be a better look for Johnson – his suits are way too big. But really it depends on the mentality and how you carry yourself. Some people get it, some people don’t.”

    Rishi Sunak, the Chancellor, meanwhile, is praised for always looking “thin and neat”, but “maybe his suits are a bit small”.

    Cundey’s sons – Henry (who is nicknamed Henry VIII, as he is the eighth generation since the first Henry Poole) and Jamie – are expected to carry on the family tradition of tailoring, but even if they don’t wear suits every day, Cundey eventually concedes.

    “They’re smart and casual,” he says, “but they don’t let me down.”

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    French fashion

    I found the only article that makes me more French than the French

    Then blow me, I stumbled upon an actual version of this in the newly renovated, impossibly shiny and impossibly huge Dior store in Paris. Not that exact jacket, you understand, but the one that costs around £3,000 more, but with the same wide navy and cream horizontal stripes, peplum and streamlined torso. I thought it would have been rude not to try it. That’s when I established that a striped jacket doesn’t have to be limiting.

    Personally, I’d only wear stripes with plain pants and t-shirts, but more adventurous dressers could pull off a great wedding between her and the flowers, throw on fishnet pop socks, and top it all off with aviators and a beret. . Very Gucci.

    I didn’t really feel it for the Dior award. But lesson learned: with a cinched waist, a striped jacket can deliver a well-defined silhouette just as effectively as a dark solid-colored jacket. And it looks fresh and spring with a maxi skirt, pants or jeans in navy or cream. I would also wear it with a metallic top or dangling earrings in the evening. Listen to me, count the ways to justify £3,000…

    Except I didn’t. I came back to London, found my virtual basket on thefoldlondon.com and lived happily ever after. I also discovered that while there is only one striped knit jacket similar to the Dior (i.e. the one I’m wearing here), there are a number of plain knit jackets affordable, from the crochet look of Wyse to the sporty zipper of Cos. Think French, act reasonably.

    Five of my favorite purchases

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    French fashion

    Inside the house of a French antique dealer

    “When I visited this house, the first thing that struck me were the original floors,” says a France-based antique dealer. Fabienne Nomibis patterned cement tiles and wooden flooring of his three-story house. Nestled in the city of Reims (about an hour east of Paris), the structure dates from the 1920s. “It was love at first sight.”

    After some minor renovations needed (including an electric recast) Nomibis equipped space with a mixture of old items and slightly more recent. Faced with recessed shelves hued roses and fully stocked (as Nomibis has installed itself!) In the living room there is a stately couch framed by a wooden ladder old right and a pink jazzy lantern and Saarinen tulip table left. A dandelion yellow wire penetrates the traditional facade predominantly white kitchen. A ceramic pot here, a pepper mill there and teaches in vibrant neon exclaiming “LET’S DANCE” overlooks it all. Pay particular attention to the back of this room and you will see an assortment of disco balls littering the top of a cupboard.

    Nomibis’ house is his living space, but it also serves as a gathering area, showroom, and storage unit for his antique business. “We live with these objects until they sell and leave for a new life with someone else,” says Nomibis. “That’s why we only select things we like.”

    Her art collection in particular showcases her favorite finds from years spent browsing antique markets, flea markets and auction houses across France, which she does in her truck. Of his seemingly random placement, Nombis tells Coveteur, “There are no rules. I buy, I hang, I resell, I replace. I like to mix origins, eras, materials and colors. One thing she won’t be letting go of anytime soon is a collection of watercolors she discovered 20 years ago. The paintings depict costumes for a theatrical performance of Don Juan in the 1930s. “I can’t bring myself to sell them. The colors are gorgeous.

    A unique snapshot in his treasure hunt timeline, Nomibis’ house will likely not be the same a year from now. Besides the space’s rotating showroom function, Nomibis gets bored easily and likes to shake things up. “Initially we painted the kitchen and office a light gray and the living room a darker version with an English green base and trim,” she says. “Today, [both rooms] are white. This color change happens on a semi-annual basis, so you’ll have to check back on Instagram soon to see what happened to the place. In the meantime, Nomibis tells us the story behind its current decor, below.

    Buy the story:

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    Election in France: why it’s now or never for Marine Le Pen | Marine Le Pen

    Jaky Ruiz was on the verge of tears. For three hours, he had waited to be photographed with Marine Le Pen and voila. The former cabaret star looked at the photo on her outdated foldable phone.

    “Oh my God, this is so moving. I told her that I had danced at a show that her father, Jean-Marie, attended in the 1980s when she was little and she said that she was there and she remembered it,” the septuagenarian said. He pulled a weathered black-and-white image of a long-legged dancer in a leotard from his pocket.

    “I showed him this: it’s me. I can’t believe I have to talk to him. I will vote for her but I don’t think she will win. Although she has changed, Le Pen’s name is still scary.

    There was more faith than fear among the crowds who turned out for the Le Pen roadshow in south-west France this week, the latest dates in a campaign that began more than two years ago. Le Pen said this third presidential bid would be his last, so for fans near the Pyrenees and the Spanish border, where far-right support is strong, it’s now or never. And they have never felt closer to victory than today.

    A series of polls nearing the end of the campaign at midnight on Friday suggested Le Pen had narrowed the gap on Emmanuel Macron within the margin of error. Elabe put Macron at 26% and Le Pen at 25% for Sunday’s first-round vote, with Jean-Luc Mélenchon of the radical left at 17.5%. The small-sample poll suggested the second-round result could be just as close, with Macron winning 51% to Le Pen’s 49%. According to a larger Ifop poll, Macron won 52% to 48%.

    At the Les Halles indoor market in the historic southwestern town of Narbonne, where Le Pen paid an impromptu visit on Friday morning, his older sister, Marie-Caroline, admitted the first round would be biting but said that everyone was keeping their cool, especially Marine: “She’s incredible; solid as granite. And judging by the upbeat mood of the members of Le Pen’s top team, in their sharp navy suits and crisp white shirts, they clearly smell of victory.

    The evening before, during its last major meeting, a crowd of around 4,000 people had gathered in Perpignan, the capital of the Pyrénées-Orientales. department led by Mayor Louis Aliot – who also happens to be the former vice-president of Le Pen’s National Rally (RN) and his ex-partner.

    Yuni Yulianti, 40, of Indonesian descent, said she would vote for Le Pen: “I’m not worried about being a foreigner. She has nothing against those of us who follow the law. She’s against the many people who don’t. Her friend Stéphanie Bauer, 50, a pharmacist, nodded: “I vote for Marine Le Pen and I have Métis grandchildren.”

    Most of those present were already Le Pen voters. They took merchandise, including t-shirts, scarves, pens, lighters and baby bibs, and chanted “Marine President” or “We will win” (we will win). His speech was littered with catchphrases: “patriots don’t abstain” (cheers); “ultra-liberalism” (boos); “no more police” (cheers); “Macron” (boos).

    Marine Le Pen, center right, with her father, Jean-Marie, center left, in 2011. She later expelled him from the party as part of a drug rehabilitation program. Photography: Patrick Durand/Getty Images

    In the city, the opinions of those not attending the rally were more nuanced. “Personally, I am a Macron man. That’s not to say he doesn’t have his faults, but I think he’s the best choice to lead the country,” said Marc Sirjean, 75, a retired accountant. “I am not convinced by Marine Le Pen. I think she is too rigid and I don’t think she would be able to put together a team in government.

    Le Pen, of course, has a ready answer to this; it promises to form a government of “national unity”. On Friday, RN acting president Jordan Bardella told the Observer this would include politicians from across the political spectrum, including “left and right”. And he was sure she would be able to do it.

    “The end-of-campaign momentum is with us and Mélenchon. If the French will vote, we will win,” he said. “The reason she succeeded is that she talks to the French people about their daily problems, the cost of living, health, the concerns of young people.”

    But the rise of Le Pen’s political star isn’t just due to a tectonic shift in the French political landscape to the right. It is also due to the inveterate aversion of an incumbent president. Macron, once the new face, an outsider shaking up the left-right political scene, is now seen as part of that scene.

    Le Pen has also benefited from the hawkish stance of his far-right electoral rival Éric Zemmour, who has made his hardline approach to controversial issues such as immigration, Islam and crime seem less extreme by comparison.

    Le Pen’s father, Jean-Marie, never really approached power and would not have known what to do with it if he had. His raison d’être was to be a political troublemaker, flip the table and walk away. Its surprise first-round victory in 2002 had little to do with support for the far right: it was because the left was divided and French voters used their first-round ballot to “make send a message”, convinced that the place of the socialist candidate Lionel Jospin in the second round was assured. As they discovered, that was not the case.

    Marine Le Pen took over what was then the National Front in 2011 and set out to whitewash its image, tarnished by xenophobic neo-Nazi thugs with shaved heads and booted boots. Members have been expelled for racist and anti-Semitic remarks or for having defended Philippe Pétain, head of the French Vichy government, a Nazi collaborator in the 1940s. She even expelled her own father in 2015.

    The “de-demonization,” as it was called, worked. In 2012, she made her first bid to become president, securing 17.9% in the first round for third place behind socialist Francois Hollande – who eventually won – and conservative Nicolas Sarkozy. In May 2014, the FN won two senators, the first time party officials had entered the upper house, and added 11 mayors to its electoral tally. The FN also won the European elections that year, with 24.9% of the vote, sending 25 representatives to the European Parliament.

    Le Pen ran again in 2017, winning 21.3% of the vote in the first round, enough to reach the second round. In the second round, she obtained 33.9%, a score well below that expected against Macron, then a newcomer to politics.

    The National Front’s program at the time resembled that of Le Pen senior in 2002: the emphasis on “national priority” for housing, benefits and employment; the defense of small businesses against large groups; reinforcement of police and judicial powers.

    Macron gestures with one hand as he speaks at an iodium
    Macron on the campaign trail – like many Élysée incumbents, he faces an uphill battle for re-election. Photography: Jean Catuffe/Getty Images

    After this defeat, she renamed the party the Rassemblement National or Rassemblement National. He has stopped calling for the death penalty and for France to leave the EU – although she remains determined to ignore Brussels. She continues to defend the nationalist discrimination of “French first”, but there is also a commitment to a more left-wing economy, including increased pensions, opposition to the privatization of public services and protectionism as an alternative to globalization.

    Unlike Zemmour, she is not proposing zero immigration – she wants a referendum on the issue – and has stolen UK Home Secretary Priti Patel’s idea to process asylum claims overseas. Illegal immigrants and those who break the law would be deported, she said, but she dropped the party’s opposition to marriage equality and abortion.

    Its foreign policy is vague. Until recently, she was a staunch supporter of Russia and Vladimir Putin – a photo with the Russian leader in Moscow appears in his manifesto – a stance that required a swift turnaround after troops invaded Ukraine Russians. This and a promise to withdraw France from NATO, echoed by the radical left, seems to have had little effect on his popularity.

    In 2002, few would admit to having voted for Le Pen dad. Today Marine, at 53, the youngest of her three daughters, has managed to draw much of the poison from the notorious name.

    Critics say she changed her style but not the toxic party stuff. A recent report by the left-leaning Fondation Jean-Jaurès claimed: “Form has taken precedence over substance… theater over program”. However, he added: “Arguments relating to her incompetence or lack of knowledge no longer seem to hold water at a time when some parts of France see her as completely presidential and close to the people, and no more worrying than d other candidates.It is therefore on a completely different ground that her future opponent will have to beat her in the second round, if she succeeds.

    Speaking to voters outside Paris, the general impression is that the French are looking for change – often just for change. Sitting presidents have historically struggled to win re-election and some felt Macron left him too late to campaign, seeing it as evidence of arrogance. At his only rally last Sunday, Macron warned his supporters not to assume he would win a second term or defeat Le Pen. Afterwards he said The Parisian newspaper: “Marine Le Pen has a racist and extremely brutal program. She is lying to you.

    Former rugby player Gilles Belzons, 50, owner of Chez Bébelle bar and restaurant in Narbonne market, said he had not decided who would get his vote: “I think you have to respect all the candidates, including Marine Le Pen in particular, because she could be the next President of the Republic. I am a businessman and a father: what I am looking for is a candidate who will make me feel safe, and my family, to do something about the cost of living and reduce small business burdens. She’s credible, she has conviction, and I admire her tenacity, but there are things about her program that I don’t follow. not so sure.

    His point of view is not uncommon. For many French people, the name Le Pen is no longer viewed with disdain. If, as expected, Le Pen does enough to reach the second round on April 24, Macron will face the biggest political fight of his career to prevent him from entering the Élysée.

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    Rare Michelangelo drawing could fetch $33 million in Paris

    Written by ReutersParis, France

    A drawing by Michelangelo, discovered in 2019, will be offered for sale next month by Christie’s and could fetch 30 million euros ($33 million), the British auction house announced on Tuesday.

    The drawing, one of the rare works by the Italian Renaissance artist in private hands, was sold in 1907 in Paris and presented as a work of the Michelangelo school. It was largely forgotten until 2019, when a Christie’s scholar recognized it as one of Michelangelo’s own.

    The drawing is considered to be one of the artist’s earliest works, dating from around the end of the 15th century. It reproduces a shivering man represented on a fresco, “Baptism of the Neophytes”, by Masaccio. Two other people stand near him in the drawing.

    “I think this drawing is one of the most exciting discoveries made in Old Master Drawings in a long time,” said Stijn Alsteens, Global Head of Old Master Drawings at Christie.

    Related video: How do art auctions really work?

    “It shows Michelangelo doing two things at the same time, thinking back to the artists who came before him, in this particular case Masaccio, as well as looking forward to his own work and its revolutionary aspect – in particular the depiction of the human body that becomes such an important part both in the sculptures, I am thinking of the David of Florence, or the very many figures he painted in the Sistine Chapel,” Alsteens added.

    The work had been designated a French national treasure, which prevented it from being exported, but the French government recently removed the designation, allowing the design to be offered to collectors anywhere in the world, Christie’s said.

    The drawing is set to be exhibited in Hong Kong and New York before being auctioned in Paris on May 18.

    Top image caption: A Christie’s employee installs the drawing ‘A Naked Young Man (after Masaccio) Surrounded by Two Figures’ by Michelangelo.

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    Macron and Le Pen tussle over pensions as French election race tightens, World News

    As the race for the French presidency narrows ahead of Sunday’s first round, front-runner President Emmanuel Macron and far-right challenger Marine Le Pen squabbled over pension reform on Monday.

    Opinion polls have long predicted that Macron will win a second term, but Le Pen has narrowed the gap, with polls showing the 44-year-old president just six points clear in a likely run-off on April 24.

    Le Pen benefited from a campaign centered on purchasing power, on which it doubled down on Monday.

    Read also | Emmanuel Macron organizes his first rally as the race for elections in France tightens

    “Do you realize what retirement at 65 is? It’s just completely unfair,” she told BFM TV, lambasting Macron’s plan to raise the legal retirement age. a full pension from age 62 to 65.

    Le Pen wants to maintain the 62-year-old threshold and bring it back to 60 for those who started working before age 20. this age and would see their pension affected accordingly

    Macron, asked about criticism of his pension reform plans, told France Inter radio: “Those who tell you that we can keep (the pension system) as it is now are lying to you.”

    Watch | Presidential elections in France: will Macron win his re-election?

    Raising the retirement age – except for those in difficult jobs or who have worked longer than others – was needed to make the system viable and increase low pensions, he said .

    Macron, when he entered the election campaign late last month, said he would raise the retirement age, cut taxes and further ease labor market rules, seeking a mandate to continue favorable reforms to businesses.

    Highlighting his pro-business credentials was not without risk as households are feeling the pressure of rising prices and could deter a number of left-leaning voters from backing him against Le Pen in a likely run-off on April 24. .

    At his only campaign rally before the first round on Saturday, Macron tried to convince voters of the risk of a turbulent Brexit election that could see Le Pen bring the far right to power in France.

    Read also | France’s far-right leader Le Pen is closing the gap with Macron: the polls

    “Look at what happened with Brexit and so many other elections: what seemed unlikely actually happened,” he said. “Nothing is impossible.”

    Even if Macron wins a second term, as the polls still expect, the issue of pension reform, which weighed on his first term, could pose a problem, given the scale of the opposition.

    A first major challenge would be for his centre-right La République en Marche (LaRem) party, which has failed in all recent local elections, to win the legislative elections in June.

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    Scotland’s top cop Iain Livingstone is being prosecuted for an Inspector Clouseau-style gaffe

    Scotland’s best cop is being prosecuted for an Inspector Clouseau-style gaffe.

    French pensioner Guy Joao has been wrongfully arrested during an international manhunt.

    3

    Guy Joao was wrongfully arrested
    Top cop Livingstone

    3

    Top cop LivingstoneCredit: The Scottish Sun
    Serial killer Xavier Dupont de Ligonnes

    3

    Serial killer Xavier Dupont de LigonnesCredit: AFP

    He died last year aged 71, but his lawyers are still suing Scottish Police Chief Iain Livingstone for damages.

    Officers arrested Mr Joao at Glasgow Airport in 2019, believing he was aristocratic serial killer Xavier Dupont de Ligonnes.

    De Ligonnes disappeared in 2011 after the bodies of his wife and four children were discovered in Nantes, France.

    Mr. Joao was a former Renault factory worker.

    The Scottish bride beat her mum at her wedding - then hailed the 'best day of her life'
    Crooked Scottish taxman compared to Liam Neeson's Taken character in fraud case

    He was traveling to his second home in Dunoon with his Scottish wife Mhari at the time of his arrest.

    In a Clouseau-style blunder, he was mistaken for the killer when he looked nothing like him.

    Before his death, a legal claim for compensation was launched.

    He is due to be heard tomorrow in the Scottish National Personal Injury Court.

    Most read in Scottish news

    It is understood that the legal action against Police Scotland was formally brought in 2020.

    In January of the same year, Mr. Joao said he was in talks with lawyers about the case.

    He said, “I want to know why this happened.”

    I was on Naked Attraction - tried to look smooth as a dolphin but it backfired
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    His law firm Digby Brown declined to comment.

    Police Scotland said: “As legal proceedings continue, we are unable to comment.”

    We pay for your stories and videos! Do you have a story or video for The Scottish Sun? Email us at [email protected] or call 0141 420 5300

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    French fashion

    What will €550,000 buy in France, Cyprus, Portugal, Norway and Donegal?

    IRELAND: DONEGAL

    Moress Farm, which sits on an island connected by causeway on Lough Swilly, is a period house dating from 1897 and renovated in 2002. The house is set over four floors and covers 382m². It has beautiful period woodwork and apart from a new front entrance that matches the house, there are some interesting interior details.
    Price €550,000.
    Agent propertypartners.ie

    This Lough Swilly home is set over four floors, spanning 382m²

    FRANCE: CHATILLON-SUR-SEINE

    This charming property, dating from the 17th century, was once part of a Capuchin monastery. It has eight bedrooms, spans 450m² and boasts stunning interior features including flagstone floors, paneling and period fireplaces.
    Price €550,000
    Agent groupeericmey.com

    This <a class=French house has stunning interior features including flagstone floors, paneling and period fireplaces.” height=”348″ src=”https://www.irishtimes.com/polopoly_fs/1.4838023!/image/image.jpg_gen/derivatives/landscape_620/image.jpg” width=”620″/>

    This French house has stunning interior features including flagstone floors, paneling and period fireplaces.

    CYPRUS: LARNACA

    This villa, 16 km from Larnaca in the small village of Pervolia, which has 4 km of sandy beaches, is located in a private gated community of 10 houses. Each 129m² property has three bedrooms and a private swimming pool and is a two-minute walk from the beach and a five-minute walk from the local village.
    Price €550,000.
    Agent sothebysrealty.com

    This three bedroom house in Larnaca has its own swimming pool

    This three bedroom house in Larnaca has its own swimming pool

    PORTUGAL: LISBON

    This one bedroom apartment is in a traditional Pombaline building in Baixa, the historic heart of Lisbon. It extends over 65 m², with bright interiors thanks to its south-west exposure, and a pale color palette. The property has a lift and due to its popular location there is rental potential.
    Price €530,000
    Agent spotblue.com

    There is rental potential with this apartment in Baixa, Lisbon

    There is rental potential with this apartment in Baixa, Lisbon

    NORWAY: OSLO

    Built in 1960, this 63 m² two-bedroom apartment is bright inside thanks to large windows and a triple aspect. Located in a quiet location in Boltelokka, the apartment has solid pine flooring, which was laid in 2015 and re-sanded and re-varnished in 2021.
    Price NOK 5.5 million/€571,721
    Agent nordvikbolig.no

    This two-bedroom apartment in Oslo is bright thanks to large windows and triple aspect

    This two-bedroom apartment in Oslo is bright thanks to large windows and triple aspect

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