Messy dressing. Evasion. Reflection. Tribute to ambivalence. Between two worlds…. Reading the titles of the collections of Beckman’s College of Design BA graduates is like taking the temperature of 2021. Eighteen months after the onset of the pandemic, those are in-between days.
Obviously, they are not dressed, however. The majority of the collections were whimsical, focused on evening wear, and featured colors and prints. Leaning towards politics was the offer from Yanis Dorey, which was called There’s Nowhere Like Home, But Home is Nowhere. The opening look was a lacy masculine t-shirt that stuck on the flags of France and Algeria. Matilda Guve explored more fantastic territory, which accessorized circus and Moulin Rouge looks with Marie-Antoinette wigs. There were trippy surreal effects, including ear-shaped buttons in Niklas Gustavsson’s range. In contrast, Filippa Agaton (now design assistant at Totême) stuck to the minimal look that has long been associated with Sweden, but gave it a twist by incorporating sporting and equestrian elements.
Working with sustainable materials is pretty much a given for the Class of 2021, but there isn’t just one way to do it. Ronja Berg, who received an award from the Swedish Fashion Council and TEKO, chose to focus on the reorientation, making tops and skirts with handbags with still attached handles, hats with heels and a boa with gloves, some of which ended up touching that was as devastating as it was appropriate, resembled the rubber ones worn by first responders administering vaccines.