Outerwear specialists Blauer USA and Ten C have moved to Milan from their usual Pitti Uomo stand out of business necessity.
A different environment called for different strategies, explained Enzo Fusco, the owner of the FGF Industry company that controls the two brands. Sales have exploded over the past two years despite the pandemic, but some adjustments were needed, including pushing back the sales campaign.
“We had already reached 70-80% of our seasonal budget before the start of Pitti Uomo, so it was less meaningful for us to be there this season,” he explained during the Ten C presentation.
The premium brand under the corporate umbrella continued its exploration of technical developments, combining new fabrics with the original, signature garment-dyed Japanese jersey, including crinkle ripstop nylon, cotton and wool blends. three-layer waterproof nylon and a silver laminated nylon textile, which is lightweight and features a silver membrane that adds sparkle to garments.
They’ve been tailored for a range of workwear and military-inspired offerings in signature Ten C style, from jackets and anoraks to parkas in plaster-inspired greyish or dark burgundy hues. As part of the Spring 2023 presentation, Ten C also teased the Fall season, including a crinkle nylon sleeveless anorak with laser-cut OJJ detailing and a Tactel nylon down vest.
At Blauer, the spring collection was more colorful, but also driven by strong research and development in textiles. A new lightweight down jacket aimed at cool spring days and available in different shades, from lime green to fiery red and a colorful camouflage pattern, has been padded with Sorona, an eco-friendly, partially plant-based polymer.
“So far so good, the spring sales campaign for our brands has worked well, we are already above 2021 levels,” Fusco said, adding that one cause for concern is the economic stagnation that some analysts predict the fall.
Blauer USA also showcased its latest B.Tactical capsule inspired by US police and military uniforms, such as MA1 bombers, anoraks and overshirts. Fusco’s dream of bringing Blauer USA back to the United States, a brand with American roots he acquired in 2017, is still being refined. “You have to have a strong partner there to be successful,” he said.