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February 2022

Fashion style

How to find timeless jeans you’ll want to wear forever

Two denim lovers share their top tips for finding timeless style.

(Photo: Everlane)

Looking to create some excitement in your wardrobe? For maximum versatility, there is no better place to to start up than with a new pair of jeans. Toronto-based style expert Iva Grbesicwho regularly appears on television CityLine, shares her easy-to-steal outfit ideas with 176,000 followers on TikTok and 80% of her most-watched videos feature denim. Last year, Grbesic went viral when a simple outfit of jeans, a blazer and red heels captured 5 million views worldwide. “It affected women all over the world because no matter where you live or what you do, we all wear jeans,” she says.

JThey’re the toughest all-season garments in your wardrobe and have the potential to be dressed up or down in an instant. So you can’t go wrong with timeless jeans that will make you feel amazing for the coming years. Here’s how to find the perfect fit for you.

Take your time

“What makes jeans timeless is how they make me feel when I wear them, no matter what the trend,” says Handahu Museum, a Halifax-based visual storyteller. “If you’re feeling your best and no one can tell you otherwise, then you’re in your timeless pair.” Keeping up with trends is not only hard on your wallet, but fast fashion is also responsible for around 10% of all carbon emissions. Denim is one of the worst culprits, and it takes 7,500 liters of water to make just one pair of jeans.

Here’s the crucial first step to finding a pair of jeans you’ll wear for years: be patient. “If you’re going denim shopping, you’re going to have to spend some time on it,” says Grbesic.

try something new

To start, Handahu suggests trying a form that is new to you. “I got tired of feeling like I always had to wear skinny jeans to elongate the leg and look slimmer like a person who lives in a plus body,” she says, of the style that she wore exclusively until a few years ago, “So I explored other styles and eventually found fits that allowed me to be myself in other silhouettes. Her style A current favorite is Old Navy’s Sky-High Straight Cut, which is available in sizes 0-30 and often sold out.”After trying on my first pair, I was hooked,” she says, “They sit on the right side of my waist, have plenty of room for my stomach, are long enough for my height of 5’11 and my calves. do not suffocate. .”

Go beyond trends

Grbesic hasn’t worn skinny jeans in a while either, but she includes them with straight and bootcut styles on her list of recommendations with longevity. “It’s good to have more than one option because we’re all different, and if you cruise one of those three styles, you’ll have a pair that will last you five years,” she says, “And it’s a good lifetime to wait because our bodies change. She discovered her dream jean design, a high-waisted bootcut with subtle volume in a medium-to-dark wash, after having her fourth child.” A bootcut can help balance out a frame if you have curvier buttocks or thighs. And they offer a peekaboo moment for your shoes,” she says. Set to make a comeback, bootcut and flare shapes have recently been spotted on stylish celebrities such as Jennifer Lopez and Jennifer Aniston. But there’s one key detail to look for to ensure a classic vibe: the rise (i.e. where the belt sits on your torso). Whatever the trend, choose only a mid-rise or high-rise classic fit, and that applies to any style of jeans you choose. “My number one fashion regret is low-rise denim, and you can put that on my tombstone,” says Grbesic.

Get the right fit

Once you focus on a cut who talks to you, you’ll want to nail the perfect fit. This can be found directly on the rack, or it can be achieved with the help of a tailor. “As long as it fits the biggest part of you, whether it’s your butt or your waist, everything else can be accommodated,” says Grbesic. She also prefers a wash with subtle dimensions rather than a solid color. “Denim can be a living thing, and certain variations give it a bit more depth and make it more interesting,” she says. “Jeans with a bit of discoloration will also look better over time.

Long, straight and skinny styles have traditionally been the easiest to wear interchangeably with heels and flats. And you can always roll up a cuff, points out Grbesic. Bootcut jeans can also provide flexibility, especially with the latest styles that are cut around the ankles. If you choose a full-length cut, adjust the hemlines so they float above the floor so they don’t fray or get messy.

Consider your options

If you’re shopping IRL, it always helps to take a few pairs of jeans into the locker room with you. “My favorite thing about plus body denim offerings in recent years is that brands feel more confident to explore a much wider range of silhouettes. It’s such a joy to see bodies like mine in different cuts.Handahu says. With a few options at your fingertips, you can compare fits between brands, styles, or even colors. (Black denim tends to have less stretch, for example.) The strategy also works to increase online shopping success. “If you can afford it, I recommend ordering multiple sizes knowing you’ll be sending some back,” says Grbesic. (Remember that this practice contributes to the fast fashion cycle and returns sometimes end up being thrown away, so be aware.)

And enhance your effect from head to toe, which is a nice way of saying don’t shop disheveled. “Look and feel your best, and then try them on,” says Grbesic, “It doesn’t have to be completely glamorous, but do your hair and makeup, and your jeans-shopping experience will be very different. So whether you’re planning a cute encounter with new jeans at the mall or in your bedroom, put on your best face and you’ll start a years-long romance on a high.

Below are a few styles that will stand the test of time.

Old Navy high-rise straight jeans

OG high-rise straight-leg jeans Old Navy

This popular style keeps selling out, so keep an eye out for the next restock.

$50, oldnavy.com

A model wearing Mavi straight jeans

Mavi Kendra Super Soft Mid Length Straight Leg Jeans

$138, ca.mavi.com

A pair of dark blue straight jeans from Penningtons

d/C Jeans 1948 Straight Leg Jeans

$70, penningtons.com

A model wearing dark blue jeans sits on a large stool

Everlane The Rigid Way-High Jean

$161, everlane.com

A model wearing black jeans from Banana Republic

High-Rise Soft Sculpting Flared Jeans Banana Republic

$159, bananarepublic.ca

A model wearing H&M blue flared jeans

H&M Flared high-rise jeans

$38, hm.com

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Fashion designer

3 Black Denim Designers You Need to Know – Sourcing Journal

From shopping guides highlighting black-owned businesses to retailers featuring products made by black designers, fashion industry players have made various efforts over the past year to bring black-owned businesses to black people at the forefront of fashion. But sometimes it’s better to know more about the person behind the product. And what garment is more personal than jeans, after all?

Here, three black designers talk about why they are drawn to denim and how the sustainable fabric is a platform for self-expression, creativity and the realization of their dreams.

Aalim Abdul, founder of Aalim Abdul

RIVET: What made you want to create a denim brand?

Aalim Abdul: Denim was my canvas for personal expression at a time when I was beginning to understand myself. As a young teenager looking for comfort in his sexuality, the freestyle and customization of my jeans was my way of expressing those colorful feelings outwardly. It slowly became an outlet for me to be unabashedly myself. I knew it was an experience I wanted
share with others.

RIVET: Who is your client and what do you keep in mind when designing for them?

AA: Because I don’t live by gender norms, my client is just a forward-thinking individual with strong self-esteem who isn’t afraid to speak out loud. This creates room for inclusivity and freedom of expression. My jeans are for everyone. As a bespoke designer, during the design process I intentionally ensure that no two pairs of denim are the same. This encourages my client to recognize [what] distinguishes them from others.

RIVET: What does it mean to you to be a black fashion designer?

AA: For me, being a black fashion designer is about creating for a larger purpose. Everything I do is centered around storytelling. It’s about creating a message that can advance black art and inspire others to think outside the box. Drawing on my experience as a queer black male is central to what I do.

Aalim Abdul
Courtesy

RIVET: Where do you hope to see your brand in the next five years?

AA: My goal is to be in a position where I release collections without constantly taking long breaks. As a creative working from 9am to 5pm, life becomes overwhelming. Often I tend to step back for a long period of time to regroup. Having my brand fully supported without those long breaks is where I want to be.

I also want to give voice to those who will come after me. One thing that is close to my heart is to create opportunities for other young black creatives who may feel compelled to go to a school or institution in order to cultivate their natural creativity. My current experience as a self-taught designer is proof that it is possible on your own. Whether it’s in the front or back of my brand, saving space in the future for those kids is a big part of why I’m doing this.

Alexis Colby, founder of Bit of Denim

RIVET: What made you want to create a denim brand?

Alexis Colby: I’ve loved denim since college. I had a brand at the time, VampedCo, where I made shorts and hand-studded and tie-dyed them. Once I moved to New York, I got back into denim and made a denim rug for my bedroom. It was so much fun creating with denim, I stuck with it and Bit of Denim was born.

RIVET: Who is your client and what do you keep in mind when designing for them?

AC: I create for individuals, not for the masses, so my client is someone who likes to stand out. Someone who loves unique pieces that are [one-of-a-kind]. When creating, I make sure to push the envelope and think about what I haven’t seen done with denim and execute from there.

RIVET: What does it mean to you to be a black fashion designer?

AC: It means creating my own mini-world in the fashion world. Let’s be honest, this industry is not designed for black designers to succeed, so it’s up to all black creatives, myself included, to work hard and push our creativity to its fullest potential. We have to build our own ways.

RIVET: Where do you hope to see your brand in the next five years?

AC: Over the next five years, I see Bit of Denim tapping into footwear, expanding into retail in Japan and Europe, and expanding our creativity into the art world with installations. Big things on the way.

Sheila Rashid, Founder of Sheila Rashid, LLC

RIVET: What made you want to create a denim brand?

Sheila Rashid: I wanted to create a denim brand because initially I wanted to wear my own denim and have my own cuts because I couldn’t find what I was looking for elsewhere.

RIVET: Who is your client and what do you keep in mind when designing for them?

SR: My clients are people who appreciate the art of denim. I tend to do basic pieces that you can basically wear every day. I like to call it luxury denim. I tend to pay attention to detail, flexibility and durability in cuts and styles.

Aalim Abdul, Alexis Colby and Sheila Rashid share how they turn their creativity into denim businesses.

Sheila Rachid
Courtesy

RIVET: What does it mean to you to be a black fashion designer?

SR: Being a black designer means being a blessing. I can do what I love in life.

RIVET: Where do you hope to see your brand in the next five years?

SR: Over the next five years, I see my brand reaching new repeat customers through e-commerce, social media, and word-of-mouth. I see more collaborations and new collections.

Victor Vaughns Jr. is associate editor for WWD.

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French fashion

Relations with Russia could harm thousands of European companies

PARIS — French energy companies operating in the Russian Arctic Sea. Italian luxury shops near Red Square. German car factories in southern Russia.

As the United States and the European Union apply sanctions to penalize Russia for its invasion of Ukraine, European companies are preparing for the possibility that the punishment aimed at Moscow could hurt them as well.

The sanctions, which include preventing the government and banks from borrowing in global financial markets, blocking technology imports and freezing the assets of influential Russians, were designed to maximize the pain of the Russian economy while by inflicting as little damage as possible within the European Union, French Finance Minister Bruno Le Maire said on Friday.

But thousands of foreign companies that have been doing business in Russia for years are preparing for an inevitable economic comeback, and the war in Ukraine threatens to disrupt supply chains and bring down the European economy just as it was beginning to recover from the Covid blockade blows.

“The attack on Ukraine represents a turning point in Europe,” Christian Bruch, chief executive of Siemens Energy, a major turbine and generator producer based in Germany, said this week. “As a business, we now need to analyze exactly what this situation means for our business.”

The European Union is Russia’s largest trading partner, accounting for 37% of Russia’s global trade in 2020. Much of that is energy: around 70% of Russia’s gas exports and half of its oil exports are destined for Europe.

And while sales to Russia represent only around 5% of Europe’s total trade with the world, it has for decades been a key destination for European companies in a range of industries, including finance. , agriculture and food, energy, automotive, aerospace and luxury goods. .

Some European companies, especially in Germany, have had commercial ties with Russia for centuries. Deutsche Bank and Siemens, the huge conglomerate that is the parent company of Siemens Energy, have been doing business there since the late 19th century. During the Cold War, economic ties were seen as a means of maintaining relations across the Iron Curtain.

After the fall of the Soviet Union, Western companies came to Russia for different reasons, whether to sell Renaults or Volkswagens to the country’s growing urban middle class, or to meet the needs of a growing group of wealthy elites in search of Italian and French luxury. Others wanted to sell German tractors to Russian farmers or acquire Russian titanium for aircraft.

While some multinationals, such as Deutsche Bank, reduced their relations with Russia after its annexation of Crimea in a military operation in 2014, others have worked diligently to increase their market share in recent years and have boldly sought to expand their business in Russia. even as President Vladimir V. Putin prepared to invade neighboring Ukraine.

Last month, 20 of Italy’s top leaders held a video call with Mr Putin to talk about strengthening economic ties as Russian troops massed on the Ukrainian border and European leaders discussed sanctions.

Executives from UniCredit bank, tire company Pirelli, utility Enel and others listened for more than half an hour to Putin talking about Italian business investments and opportunities in Russia.

The call, held on January 25, angered European politicians and underscored the conflicting economic interests Europe faces as it prepares to punish Moscow with a barrage of sanctions for attacking Ukraine. A similar call scheduled for next week with German business leaders, including those from energy firm Uniper and supermarket chain Metro, was only canceled on Thursday.

But with huge economic assets at stake, European Union leaders have in recent days sought to live up to the reach of the sanctions, which have fallen short of the more sweeping economic repression some supporters of the Ukraine demanded.

At one point during frantic negotiations this week, Italy’s officials sought to have goods produced by its luxury industry excluded from any sanctions package. They also advocated for tougher sanctions that omit major crackdowns on Russian banks, much like Austria, whose Raiffeisen Bank International has hundreds of branches in Russia, diplomats said.

More notable is the omission of sanctions that would harm Russian energy imports into Europe, in which a phalanx of influential energy companies from Paris to Berlin hold major interests. Nor did the allies shut down the Russian economy to the global payments system known as SWIFT, which is used by banks in 200 countries, drawing condemnation from critics who said European leaders were placing interest economic above Ukraine’s human toll.

This is a comfort for European countries whose companies have a strong presence in Russia.

In France alone, 35 of the 40 largest French companies listed on the country’s CAC 40 stock exchange have significant Russian investments, from Auchan supermarkets on the streets of Moscow to the liquefied natural gas operations of French energy giant TotalEnergies in the Yamal Peninsula, above the Arctic Circle. All but two of the 40 companies listed on the Frankfurt DAX index have investments in Russia.

About 700 French subsidiaries operate in Russia in a variety of industries employing more than 200,000 workers, according to the French finance ministry.

While Mr Le Maire promised that the impact of the sanctions on the French economy would be minimal, the blow to some French businesses was far from clear.

Among the most exposed is the French carmaker Renault, which has two factories in Russia and is the first carmaker there thanks to a partnership with Avtovaz, which makes the Lada the most popular car in Russia. Russia is Renault’s second largest market after France.

Last week Luca de Meo, the company’s chief executive, warned that escalating tensions between Russia and Ukraine could lead to “another supply chain crisis” for the company.

The problem has already hit Volkswagen, which said on Friday it would suspend operations for several days next week at two electric vehicle manufacturing plants in eastern Germany as deliveries of crucial parts from the west of Ukraine were interrupted by the fighting.

Volkswagen could also be hit by sanctions against Russia, where since 2009 it has had a plant in Kaluga that employs around 4,000 people producing its Tiguan and Polo models, as well as the Audi Q8 and Q9, and the Skoda Rapid. Mercedes-Benz has a plant outside Moscow, while BMW works with a local partner. All three have invested in the Russian market and a growing group of consumers who can afford their cars.

This week, however, as Russia strafed Ukrainian cities and world leaders moved to impose sanctions, Volkswagen said the impact on its business in Russia would be “continually determined by a crisis team.”

BMW said “the policy sets out the rules under which we operate as a business” and that “if the framework conditions change, we will assess them and decide how to deal with them.”

And then there are the banks.

Raiffeisen Bank from Austria, UniCredit from Italy and Société Générale from France are among the banks that have substantial ties to Russia. Italian and French banks had bad debts of about $25 billion in Russia at the end of last year, according to data from the Bank for International Settlements.

France, Italy and Germany were the main European powers urging not to cut Russia off from the SWIFT global payment system. Eliminating Russia would make it difficult for European creditors to receive money from Russian sources – or to pay for Russian gas, on which these countries have come to depend, especially in Europe’s current energy crisis.

Despite efforts to downplay their own countries’ pain, European officials have acknowledged that the situation is likely to get worse before it gets better.

“It will not be possible to prevent sectors of the German economy from being affected,” German Economy Minister Robert Habeck said on Thursday.

“The price of making peace possible, or getting back to the diplomatic table,” he said, “is that we at least get the economic sanctions bitten.”

Liz Alderman reported from Paris and Melissa Eddy from Berlin.

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Fashion brand

New York brand Vaquera makes “fashion fan-fiction”

A week before their Paris Fashion Week debut, young designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee, who design under the name Vaquera, seem calm, although one fabric has yet to arrive, two outfits have yet to be started and they have to ship their entire collection—and themselves—across the Atlantic. The label is based in New York, although its name is Spanish – it means “cowgirl” and was chosen by founder DiCaprio because he was reading Tom Robbins’ 1976 novel, Even cowgirls have the blues at the time.

It was in 2013, when he was only 22 years old; a group of friends, including Taubensee and two others, Claire Sullivan and David Moses (neither of whom are yet involved), joined them in 2016. They collectively designed and physically built Vaquera’s collections in their spare time so that they were all working second jobs, mostly in retail. Now, however, Vaquera is a full-time concern for the remaining duo.

The creators of Vaquera describe their work as “fashion fan-fiction” – essentially amateur, fan-made, unauthorized work based on existing work. Probably the most famous example is that of EL James Fifty shades of Grey novels, a fantasized and sexualized account of the relationship between Edward Cullen and Bella Swan of the dusk books and films, which have taken off.

What does this mean in terms of fashion? Tributes to great designers of the past, nods to Martin Margiela and John Galliano, a clasp-clasp grandma’s handbag transformed into a pinafore dress that recreates a design by Yohji Yamamoto from 2001, and a series of T- shirts with avant-garde faces. on-call designers, including Vivienne Westwood, love group t-shirts.

“In music, it’s so normal to do a cover,” DiCaprio, 31, explains via Zoom. (Taubensee is 32) “It’s something we want to bring to the fashion world. It’s something we struggle with – this idea of ​​ownership. The brand has indeed drawn grassroots criticism on social media for close tributes, like this dot-to-dot Yamamoto redux. It’s an idea that’s always more delicate in fashion than music, or even art, where appropriation is a form in its own right.

Vaquera likes to make clothes that look like other objects like this quilted satin heart-shaped box of chocolates. . . © Darian DiCianno/BFA.com

. . . and this mini dress based on a Tiffany & Co velvet jewelry pouch

Two Spring/Summer 2018, New York Fashion Week outfits: an oversized shirt and a tie. . . © Dan and Corina Lecca

. . . and a T-shirt with the face of designer Miguel Adrover © Dan and Corina Lecca

Ironically, it was one of their “covers” that caught the attention of Comme des Garçons, who now support their business through their brand development division named Dover Street Market Paris (DSMP). In the Spring 2019 exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art Camp: Fashion Notesthere was a Vaquera mini dress fashioned to look like a gargantuan Tiffany & Co velvet jewelry pouch – Vaquera often likes to make clothes that look like other things, puffed up big, like a heart-shaped box of chocolates in padded satin wrapping the whole body, or a fabric pouf topped with a rosette of Christmas gift ribbon one meter wide.

Kawakubo admired the bag-lady look in the museum, which Met costume curator Andrew Bolton passed on to designers. “We were amazed that she had any idea who we were, let alone that she was interested,” DiCaprio said. Bolton then put them in touch with Adrian Joffe, Kawakubo’s husband and chairman of Comme des Garçons and Dover Street Market. They succeeded.

A year later, Vaquera was in dire straits. “We had hit like a wall in New York, no money, barely had a collection done,” says DiCaprio – lamenting the lack of support for young talent in the city. They reached out to Joffe and Dover Street Market – which started stocking Vaquera in spring 2020 – for help. The retailer suggested hosting a cocktail party at its New York store. Vaquera instead held a guerrilla fashion show around the shelves, having done a collection in a week. It caused a stir and DSM loved it. “Then they came to our showroom that season and said, let’s work together. How can we help you?” recalls DiCaprio. DSMP announced support for Vaquera in September 2020.

Vaquera’s studio in Brooklyn. The duo have been criticized for paying close tributes to the work of other designers. “In music, it’s so normal to do a cover,” replies DiCaprio © Shina Peng

Since Dover Street Market Paris got involved in the manufacture and wholesale of its clothing, the number of global stockists of Vaquera has increased

“I don’t think we would still be here without them,” adds Taubensee. “For so long people were really interested in us – but I think people didn’t have much faith in us either, at the same time. Comme des Garçons actually understood better than anyone what we needed. And it was a help with distribution, marketing, press inquiries and sample production. Nearly half of Vaquera’s upcoming Fall/Winter 2022 collection was produced by Comme des Garçons factories, and the designs include puffer jackets, handbags, fashionable knitwear and jewelry, “things that we could never have made it ourselves,” Taubensee says. “One thing we struggled with was that our shows are exciting. But we weren’t selling anything, really. Since DSMP got involved in making and wholesaling their clothes, the number of Vaquera’s global stockists have grown to 40. And alongside fantastic rolling chocolate boxes, its apparel includes more business-savvy pieces like oversized suits, bras and easy T-shirt dresses.

The collection, unveiled tonight, riffs on the city of Paris – Vaquera will show in the new Dover Street Market event space there, a 17th century mansion in the Marais, now named 3537. “It’s about the vague idea of ​​love,” says DiCaprio. “The city of love and our love for fashion, our love for our friends, our family and ourselves. And you know, what do you sacrifice for love? How is love inspiring? What is Is that limiting? And what does it look like, in a garment? Now DiCaprio and Taubensee are going to show us.

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Fashion style

12 next-gen influencers to follow, according to Instagram’s French Style Guru

The #ParisianStyle hashtag has been used 4.5 million times on Instagram. That’s less than #ootd, or “outfit of the day,” which garnered 397 million mentions, but more than #AvocadoToast at two million. Many of the accompanying tagged looks are taken from the near-mythical “French-Girl Style” playbook, featuring an easy-to-reproduce combination of a tailored jacket, skinny jeans, and a pair of Isabel ankle boots. Marching. But, lately, the images have started to look different.

Neon shades, clashing prints, chunky platforms, miniskirts cut to the thighs: the Parisian style model is undergoing a major overhaul. And the type of person who once embodied him – a thin, white, disheveled BoBo living in a parquet floor apartment in Saint Germain-des-Près – is no longer in mind. The new generation of Parisian goes through scooter (electric scooter) with an oval-shaped Coperni Sac Swipe thrown over his shoulder. Skinny jeans were ditched in favor of vintage Levi’s with wide legs and crisp white shirts replaced by sexy little Jacquemus cut-out bodysuits. At night, she — or him, or them, because it’s an inclusive style philosophy — hides her chunky-soled Bottega Veneta boots in favor of neon-green Attico mules. Breton? Faded away.

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Clara Cornet, Instagram’s Head of Fashion and Beauty Strategic Partners for Southern Europe, maps the change. “I strongly believe in a more inclusive and diverse French style that is gaining visibility and momentum,” she says, speaking on Zoom from her apartment in Paris, where everyone’s favorite selfie mirror, Ettore’s Ultrafragola scribble Sottsass, can be seen in the background. “It’s more exciting right now to show more creativity, more risk-taking, more authenticity.” She includes herself in this cohort, despite the fact that today she wears a Totême turtleneck with navy and white stripes. She laughs and rolls her eyes. “May the record reflect that Clara is wearing a Breton striped jumper!”

Cornet’s wardrobe choices are usually a little more out there, much to the delight of her 36,000 followers. The last time I saw her, at an Instagram event in January at the Dover Street Market event space in Paris, she wore a lime-green pussy-bow blouse and a black Balenciaga skirt suit. Her wardrobe includes cut-out vinyl Courrèges mini dresses and puffy Cecilie Bahnsen blouses, Simone Rocha embellished coats and vinyl Amina Muaddi heels. It’s a bubbling mix fueled by what she describes as a “falling for somethingbuying habit (a spontaneous approach that we Brits might call ‘love at first sight’, where you just can’t resist buying) that is nonetheless informed by more than a decade as a as a fashion buyer. She started at Galeries Lafayette in her native Paris, then ran Stateside at Opening Ceremony and The Webster, then returned to Galeries Lafayette, where she served as Creative and Merchandising Director.

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She joined Instagram in 2020 and now works alongside Fashion Partnerships Director Eva Chen. It was obvious: Cornet started posting on the application in May 2012 (“I remember my first post very well: it was the Daniel Buren exhibition at the Grand Palais”) and used it to discover new buyer talents. For example, she first found Coperni duo Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant on Facebook, but contacted them via Instagram DM, before finally buying their collection for Opening Ceremony. She still uses it as inspiration to shop, as do more than half of people who open the app. “It speaks volumes about our audience’s appetite for seeking fashion content, inspiration and commerce,” she points out. “What is most exciting for me is that Instagram is also [creates] bridges with small and medium-sized companies or emerging designers capable of sharing space and sharing public attention.

Naturally, Cornet believes the app has a vital role to play in democratizing the haughty image of French fashion. “I love following profiles of people who have their own identity,” she says. “They’re all unique, they have opinions for some which are exciting to read and interact with, and they have a very personal way of styling in a surprising way.” How can things still progress? “It can start with everyone letting go, letting go of their perfect flow, and sharing more authentic stories, not being afraid to take risks and share your challenges.”

Here, Cornet shares her favorite proponents of next-gen Parisienne style to add to your feed this Paris Fashion Week.

Emmanuelle Koffi

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Ellie Delphine

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Solene OJ

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Paola Locatelli

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Hera Pradel


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Jade Rabarivelo

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Pierre Didi

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Moon Kyu Lee

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Taqwa Bintali

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Soreya Cesarine & Henri Ekamby

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May Lee

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Fashion designer

19 Facts About Anna’s Costume Invention

I can’t believe how long all the research took!

While I was watching Invent Annait was pretty hard to look away — partly because of the drama, but mostly because of all the fabulous outfits.

Anna’s keen fashion sense was the work of costume designers Lyn Paolo and Laura Frecon.

Nomi Ellenson/WireImage/Maury Phillips/Getty Images/Via Getty

Here are 19 behind-the-scenes facts they shared about the costumes of Invent Anna:

1.

Shonda Rhimes tapped Lyn Paolo design for Invent Anna because she was costume director on two other iconic Shondaland productions – Scandal and How to escape murder.

Daniel Zuchnik/WireImage/Via Getty

2.

Laura Frecon is also a Shondaland veterinarian – she was a costume assistant on How to get away with murder.

Maury Phillips/Getty Images/Mitch Haaseth/©ABC/courtesy Everett Collection

You might also recognize his work from the series directed by Elizabeth Olsen sorry for your loss.

3.

The outfits Anna wears in the courtroom scenes are recreations of what Anna Sorokin wore during her trial in real life.

Netflix/TIMOTHY A. CLARY/AFP via Getty Images

“It was exactly what she was wearing…and she refused to go to court until she had something to wear. I have to respect the nerve. That says a lot about her,” said Paolo said. Shondaland.

4.

Before starting to choose her looks for the show, Paolo and Frecon had a long research everything the real Anna wore in her Instagram posts.

5.

The search for her outfits took two months.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

6.

They also searched for everything Anna’s real friends wore in her Instagram posts.

7.

They too recreated the real Anna’s entire Instagram wall.

8.

The creators scoured luxury resale platforms such as Poshmark and Farfetch for the exact outfits, and what they couldn’t find, they recreated as faithfully as possible themselves.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

9.

Find all of the costumes Anna took three months.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

ten.

However, rather than directly recreating the real Anna Sorokin’s everyday outfits, the show featured “an elevated version of her, a Shondaland version of her” to better show her transformation from impostor to socialite.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

Paolo said Shondaland“I don’t think she was that glamorous in real life…Shonda writes these amazing stories about these amazing women who have amazing fashion sense…Every moment of the story every Anna was different , and you can see that in his fashion choices.

11.

In total, they created over 3,000 outfits for the character because they were “trying to make her appeal to multiple worlds”.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

Paolo said Shondaland“If she didn’t know the fashion, the ladies who lunched in New York would never accept her, and they were the entrance to the husbands, who are the bankers and the lawyers. Then there was the business world, where she would be more costume-y.And then there was the Goop world, where you see her on the yacht.

12.

Julia Garner, who plays Anna, doesn’t have her ears pierced, so the wardrobe department had to find suitable clip earrings.

netflix

“We had to find a designer who would work for her with a music video, which is quite tricky,” Paolo said. Shondaland.

13.

For the yacht scene, they had Christian Dior embroider Anna’s name on a bag – which was finished surprisingly quickly, considering Italy had just closed due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

14.

costume designers bought the Alexander McQueen dress she wears in that mall scene then built the rest of the look around her.

15.

Anna often wore a mix of designer labels in one outfit because “if you really know what you’re doing with fashion, you mix it up…not just wear everything like you’re on the catwalk”.

David Giesbrecht / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

Paolo said Shondaland“I love the idea that she’s competent enough to be able to pull this off.”

16.

As the story progresses, each outfit bECOMES “a wee bit more fashionista and less conservative.”

David Giesbrecht / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

17.

The borrowed Theory dress and red Valentino coat that Anna wears after losing everything were designed to show “her fall from grace”.

netflix

Frecon said Variety“She has to wear this outfit for the whole episode all night on the subway, and then she’s going to clean herself up in a Starbucks and pull herself together, and she’s going to steal a whole bunch of money.”

18.

The gold dress she wears during her fake suicide attempt was chosen because the creators felt “it should be like a very Hollywood feeling at that time, very 1930s”.

netflix

“It was a juxtaposition of his world falling apart, but it had to be fabulous to be found by the staff,” Paolo said. Variety.

19.

And finally, Nora Radford was actually the most cherished character dress because of the amount of “super high-end couture” she wore.

Nicole Rivelli / ©Netflix / Courtesy of Everett Collection

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French fashion

France outclass Scotland to keep Grand Slam hopes alive

Rampant France remain on course for the Grand Slam after winning a six-try destruction of Scotland 36-17 in Saturday’s Guinness Six Nations clash at Murrayfield.

France took command early on with some great tries from Paul Willemse and Yoram Moefana.

Scotland responded with gusto and appeared to be back in the game when Rory Darge scored his first international start by landing just before the half-hour mark to bring the hosts within two points.

But a try from Gaël Fickou at the very end of the first half allowed France to breathe once again before new goals from Jonathan Danty and Damian Penaud. [twice] after the break ensured a chastening afternoon for the hosts.

Scotland head coach Gregor Townsend, already without Jamie Ritchie, Rory Sutherland, Matt Fagerson and Jonny Gray through injury, lost another key man on the eve of the game after Hamish Watson tested positive for Covid-19.

Watson’s place in the XV was taken by Nick Haining, with Andy Christie added as a substitute.

France, supported by a large traveling support, saw Danty return from injury in the only change of the XV which had started the victory over Ireland a fortnight before.

The Blues had a great chance to be on the scoreboard in the sixth minute when they won a penalty just past the posts, but Melvyn Jimenet was surprisingly off target with what looked like a routine kick .

Gael Fickou scored France’s third try in the final game of the first half

The breakthrough came for the visitors just two minutes later, however, when Willemse landed late in a scintillating attack down the left flank unleashed by captain Antoine Dupont. This time, Jaminet got the right kick.

Finn Russell put Scotland out of the way in the 11th minute with a penalty just past the posts after France were penalized for offside.

But within two minutes the French stretched their advantage with another excellent try when Moefana crossed the line after an offload from Cyril Baille, who did superbly to keep the attack alive. Jaminet’s conversion attempt, from a tight angle wide down the right, drifted to the wrong side of the posts.

The Scots were given good pressure and Ali Price thought he had forced the ball in for a try in the 28th minute, but the French were believed to have kept possession after a TMO review.

Cyril Baille is tackled by the Scottish Sam Skinner

Hosts were not turned away, however. Seconds after play resumed just outside the French try line, Darge rushed after being played by Price. Russell successfully converted.

Just when Scotland seemed to be taking the initiative, Fickou extended the French lead in the final action of the first half with a superb individual drive down the line, which was converted by Jaminet.

Things got worse for the home side two minutes into the second half when a field kick bounced nicely into Danty’s path and gave him a free run down the line. Jaminet has once again added the extras.

It seemed to bring Scotland down and France added a fifth try just before the hour mark when Penaud passed on the right. Jaminet missed his conversion.

Penaud then scored his second try of the match when he ran into a cross kick from Romain Ntamack in the 74th minute, with the conversion attempt again unsuccessful.

Scotland were given late consolation when Duhan van der Merwe crossed the line, but it was too little, too late on a day when they were significantly outclassed.

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Fashion brand

Milan Fashion Week review: Prada, Max Mara, Moschino

Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Prada, Max Mara, Moschino

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are two of fashion’s greatest talkers, unpacking its history, analyzing the news and discussing their feelings, and the result is a Prada that feels deeply new. Some collections might seem “more Raf than Miuccia” — to which Miuccia would probably respond, “Well, if Raf has something more interesting to say…” In other words, she doesn’t have those kind of barriers. The latest collection happens to be purely Miuccia, with elements of Raf woven into Prada’s history.

What’s at the heart of this story are his views on women – a smart adult person who didn’t seem to really like fashion. You can see Prada’s first fashion show, from 1988, on YouTube. Held in a series of elegant rooms, a waiter still served drinks to guests as the models began walking casually. Not only were some of them older, but they wore styles that have become Prada signatures over time – the plain V-neck sweater, the full skirt. And it was at a time when Gianni Versace, Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier set the catwalks on fire with sex bombs.

Prada
Photo: Courtesy of Prada

On Thursday afternoon, in the vast presentation space of the Fondazione Prada, some of the girls were even older – Hannelore Knuts, Liya Kebede and English beauty Erin O’Connor. They walked with newer models like Kaia Gerber and Hunter Schafer, the Euphoria star, who wore a white ribbed undershirt with a skirt made up of a black panel, another in fuchsia crinkled silk, then a sheer panel in black tulle embroidered with pieces of red satin. Schafer wore no jewelry, carried no bags and, like all models, wore a wedge pump with a strap.

But the patterns weren’t the only link to Prada’s stylistic origins. In the middle of the show, there were costumes with full skirts, now fuller and with more movement, and a v-neck sweater with one of the skirts. These jackets, along with double-breasted wool coats – some plain wool, some tweed – were slightly oversized at the shoulders, sculpted at the waist (a view best seen from behind) and very, very elegant. They, too, are part of Prada history, although the fit and proportions (and adornment) keep changing over the years. And, of course, the moods of Prada.

Prada.
Photo: Courtesy of Prada

At the 1988 show, guests sat on spindly chairs. Last September, the set was an elaborate grid of wooden boxes interspersed with video monitors, and the models strolled among the guests. Yesterday, Simons and Prada, as if looking to wipe the slate clean, used long rows of cinema seats, with the models emerging from a futuristic-looking tunnel and then walking through a plain, wide carpeted space before stepping into exit through another tunnel at the opposite corner. from the room. Depeche Mode played throughout.

Schafer’s sheer outfit, with its splash of garish fuchsia, was also reminiscent of another Prada concept, perhaps the most difficult in her repertoire to put your finger on. I remember looking at the Prada collections in the late 90s and early 2000s when it showed, basically, a floaty brief and a pair of underwear, or underwear with, say, a cotton polo shirt. knitting. At the time, sexual expression was as singular as it was confusing. For me, these slips conjured up so many images, but mostly of 1930s Germany. Prada’s credentials were – are – vast and personal.

Prada.
Photo: Courtesy of Prada

This thrill of sexuality, which is more feminine than feminine, ran through Thursday’s show, I’m delighted to say, and it took several forms, including a pair of belted coats in hot pink or thick but toned black leather. (they’re so chic but in a dirty mood that who needs to wear anything but briefs?) and a cluster of long-sleeved black silk dresses, pretty austere except for a feathered swipe at the neckline or, say, at the hip.

One can imagine that Simons would be intrigued by the hallmarks of Prada’s style, though perhaps Miuccia herself could be more neutral, having created them. But given the storm of images that characterizes (until now) the 21st century, it is important for the Prada brand to draw people’s attention to its identity. It was not a nostalgic trip. And, as Miuccia would surely expect from their partnership, Simons drives the label forward with his own tastes. Has Prada ever made a jacket? Maybe, but here’s a favorite Simons style merged with Prada tradition, now in Prada nylon, slightly oversized, and sometimes even embroidered with shimmering sick-green flowers.

Moschino.
Photo: Courtesy of Moschino

Moschino
Photo: Courtesy of Moschino

The Milan shows were remarkably good. On a gloomy day in the news, Jeremy Scott of Moschino performed an essential function of fashion: to be outrageous, to mock his own illusions. The set was a luxury piece in a luxury European house, and the models’ clothes were adorned with rich fabrics (perhaps the curtains), or in the shape of a grandfather clock or a Coromandel screen, or adorned with gold trim. A hat could be a fringed shade or – why not? – a pair of cuckoo clocks. Still, dodge the jokes, and the clothes were smart and varied, with beautiful coats and suits, including a revival of Franco Moschino’s “evening suit,” with cutouts on the front of the jacket, and a pantsuit. black lace evening dress. . Scott got the last laugh by stepping out in a red astronaut costume – apparently a nod to the 1968 film, 2001: A Space Odyssey.

Max Mara
Photo: Courtesy of Max Mara

Max Mara and its quirky sister label, Sportmax, are also committed to making big fashion statements. The exuberant radicalism of Swiss-born artist and designer Sophie Taeuber-Arp (1889-1943) was the starting point for Max Mara’s strong silhouettes, many using the brand’s famous “teddy bear” fabric – for bell-shaped skirts, flared pants and shorts. If that sounds crazy, that’s the point: it was playful and risque fashion. The collection was loaded with interesting pieces in a concise palette of warm browns, creams, blacks and reds, including plush tunics; military coats; a fabulous sleeveless, ankle-length tunic in black wool with a low waist; and all-knit crepe-soled thigh-high boots (with rear zippers). Another difference this season is that Tonne Goodman stylized the show for the first time, adding to its visual sharpness.

Sportmax
Photo: Courtesy of Sportmax

I don’t know why Sportmax has ‘sport’ in it, because it doesn’t seem so sporty these days – and I’m happy about that. It’s almost become Max Mara’s weird and experimental relationship, though still in the vein of luxury. Staged this season in a long piece bathed in bright pink, the standout motifs were retro-futurism (think blade runner) and the good old cheeky glamor of Helmut Newton. Fittingly, the tailoring was frighteningly feminine, bordering on the shapes Demna developed at Balenciaga, while several evening looks – worth checking out if you’re shopping this fall – have cutouts that follow the contours of the body. Once again, the look at the start is decisive.

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Fashion style

Everything Looks Different Now – The New York Times

MILAN — Backstage at the Moschino show on Thursday, the day Russia attacked Ukraine, designer Jeremy Scott stood among models dressed in clothes designed to resemble the furnishings of a grand manse — a hat shade which was a real lampshade; a satin bedspread mantle with a pillow as a collar; a grandfather clock dress – and discuss what happens when crisis and fashion collide. Nearby, milliner Stephen Jones attached an entire candelabra to a model’s head.

“I’m just trying to bring some respite, some joy and some beauty into our lives,” Mr. Scott said, as an explanation for the whole show-will-go-on stance. He had no idea what it might look like. “We still need that,” he said, pointing to his sweatshirt which said, with a levity that wasn’t entirely convincing, “Gilt without guilt.”

The fashion bubble, this world-within-a-world that moves with its own rhythm and language twice a year during ready-to-wear fashion shows (or did, before Covid), can seem disconcerting at best. When a global confrontation occurs, however, the contrast between life inside and life outside is particularly shocking.

On one side: the stuff of fantasy and thrift; on the other, streams and titles filled with menace and fear. This may seem almost impossible to reconcile.

Yet fashion, like other expressions of humanity, can be a tool to get through even the worst of times; can be used to feel stronger, more secure, more confident, more efficient, more able to face the day.

The problem is how to think of clothes that were made for one world, but will be seen and worn in another. When reality changes, the appearance of a thing, its purpose, can change overnight.

Max Mara’s team, for example, named Sophie Taeuber-Arp, the early 20th-century Swiss abstract artist, in their exhibition notes, and sent models swaddled from head to toe: in wraparound cashmere and down jackets, teddy bear pants, balaclavas, knit opera gloves, mohair thigh boots.

In a world emerging from Covid, such garments might reek of comfort clothes and the hug of home, but in a world of sanctions and bombings – a world where a guest in a little black dress held up a sign in cardboard scribbled with the message ‘No war in Ukraine’ – they looked more like protective gear, shielding the bodies inside.

Then there was Sunnei, where creators Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina dreamed up a mini commentary on the rush of everyday life, with models running down a side street as if late for a very important appointment, their mix eclectic popcorn knits, wide pants and color block stretch tops flying all around. It was a witty storyline, but it was hard not to see people walking by (some also in balaclavas, a trend that’s taking on a whole new cast), padded backpacks bouncing behind and thinking they were running away. .

Context matters.

That was the problem for Mr. Scott, whose double fashion sense has turned his work into social media catnip and made him the industry’s resident postmodern prankster. A few months ago, when he was designing his collection, a maniacal take on the homebody nature of the past two years, when we all had to find inspiration within our own four walls, probably seemed like a fun idea. Especially when crossed with the ubiquitous promise of space exploration, in the form of a setting based on the ornately decorated bedroom in the final scene of Stanley Kubrick’s “2001: A Space Odyssey.”

“It’s ‘2001: A Space Opulence’,” Mr Scott joked backstage. He was referring to suits and trench coats sporting tap and cutlery buttons, and a ruffled little black dress with the motto “maid in Italy” and a feather duster for a hat – not to mention a dress in gold carrying a full-size harp with crystal strings on the back, even though the movie that first came to mind was Disney’s “Beauty and the Beast.” Often, Mr. Scott’s sartorial puns serve as a cover for sharp, stylized cultural commentary, but this time they seemed less of a wink than unnecessary.

What exactly was he grinding? It could have been the oligarchs (who would have changed course), but instead it seemed to be… the interior design industry.

Mr Scott’s first Moschino show, held eight years ago, happened to take place at the start of the 2014 Ukrainian uprising. Then, as now, it created a stark contrast.

,Another: Just outside the Prada show – where crowds were screaming to catch a glimpse of celebrity guest Kim Kardashian (in a leather trench coat and jumpsuit from the January men’s show) and “Euphoria’s” Hunter Schafer, who modeled – two women unfurled a Ukrainian Flag.

That’s why the contrast at the heart of what Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have explored at Prada since joining forces two years ago is so suddenly on point. Its power lies in the willingness of designers to fight push-pull from different points of view. This season was no different, with tensions between the masculine and the feminine, the hidden and the exposed, the very flowery and the very essential.

A basic white ribbed tank top was paired with a sheer skirt in some kind of metallic fabric, made to be wrinkled and shiny, sometimes sliced ​​by inserts of pink satin or gray flannel, sometimes hanging petal-like sequins that seemed to weigh more than the material itself.

Skirts reappeared as shift dresses over more tank tops and cropped underwear, paired with 1970s graphic knits (the kind Prada made famous years ago), oversized blazers and cotton coats. leather with protruding shoulders and feathers springing from the elbows. Occasionally there was an interregnum of black, like a palate cleanser: woolen coats and robes with chains threaded around the neck and fastened over one shoulder; knee-length silk dresses with built-in corsets.

It was not revolutionary; most of the pieces (or their ancestors) had already appeared on the Prada runways in another era. But then, the designers were exploring the brand’s past. If you don’t learn anything from history etc.

As a point, it was particularly on the nose.

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Fashion designer

As Ukraine-Russia war escalates, designers seek safety and resolution – WWD

Faced with the onset of war and a large-scale invasion by Russia, Ukrainian designers and other fashion executives offered a stark view of their experience on Thursday.

In retaliation for the actions of Russian President Vladimir Putin, the US administration, 27 members of the European Union, Australia and other countries announced plans Thursday afternoon to hamper the Russian economy.

President Joe Biden has revealed new sanctions against Russia. Addressing how Putin’s military efforts threaten freedom everywhere, Biden said, “Aggression cannot go unaddressed, if it did, the consequences for America would be far worse. America stands up to bullies. We stand up to bullies. We defend freedom. It’s who we are.

As Russian tanks continue to roll into Ukraine and bombs are dropped in various cities, traffic has intensified in Kyiv, with many residents seeking refuge in neighboring countries.

As more US military troops were deployed to Germany in response to the invasion of Ukraine, major retailers like H&M and Adidas were watching the situation closely. H&M has closed its nine stores in Ukraine until further notice, according to a company spokesperson.

Traffic jams are seen as people leave the city of Kiev, Ukraine, February 24, 2022.
Emilio Morenatti/AP

Some fashion designers based in the capital Kiev, such as Alina Kachorovska, had taken refuge in underground metro stations to avoid airstrikes. Other designers, like Ivan Frolov, the creative force behind the Frolov label, had evacuated Kyiv en route to Poland. But that didn’t happen due to mandates put in place Thursday night that prevent Ukrainian men between the ages of 18 and 60 from leaving the country. Only women and children are currently allowed there.

Jen Sidary, a global fashion brand strategist who is showcasing six Ukrainian brands in New York this week, said she has been in “constant contact” with Frolov and other designers since the airstrikes began. Besides Kachorovska and Frolov, Elena Burenina, Chereshnivska, Paskal and 91 Lab are the brands that Sidary works with.

Burenina and her team were sheltering in place in Kiev. Frolov, her boyfriend and a few friends had packed their bags and were driving on back roads to avoid major cities in an attempt to get to Poland. “There is some pretty horrific coverage right now that the Kremlin will target members of the LGBQT community. Hopefully Ivan will reach the border at 2:30 am Kyiv time. I text him every hour,” Sidary said.

However, this hope has disappeared, due to the new mandates.

Ivan Frolov evacuated Kiev on Thursday en route to Poland.

Ivan Frolov evacuated Kiev on Thursday en route to Poland, but new warrants prevented that from happening.
Courtesy

Eponymous shoe designer Alina Kachorovska, whose grandmother started making shoes in Ukraine in 1957, had just returned to the land of Lineapelle in Milan. “She was very happy about it because she has three children,” Sidary said. “At 4am EST, Alina was in her design studio right after the bombing. These Ukrainians can’t stop working. I’m in awe.

Noting that Kachorovska’s design studio is not located in a secure building, Sidary said she moved to take shelter but “stays strong with her family.” Acknowledging reports that Putin plans to repeatedly hit Kiev and overtake the capital, Sidary said, “I think we have to be prepared for what is to come.

In an email Thursday afternoon, Public Kitchen founder Anastasia Ivchenko said she and her business partner Eugenia Skibina and most of their team members remain in Kyiv. The PR company works with Ukrainian fashion brands such as Ienki Ienki, Katimo, Anna October, Jul and Oberig. Some Public Kitchen employees have decided to relocate to the west of the country for security reasons. When military sirens signal potential airstrikes in Kyiv, public kitchen workers go to the nearest underground bomb shelters, Ivchenko said.

Awakened at 5 a.m. by the sound of explosions, Ivchenko said it was very difficult to speak of any calm. “Ukraine is the geographical center of Europe, a country with an extremely rich history and culture with a surprisingly strong spirit and a creative economy that breaks all the patterns of ideas about Eastern Europe”, she said. “The war in eastern Ukraine has been going on for eight years, but today Russia attacked us on a large scale, including in Kiev, where our team, most of our customers and our friends live.”

As recently as Wednesday, despite the threat of military action at the time, Ienki Ienki employees were eager to discuss how the brand had spent six months designing parkas for scientists at the research base Vernadsky working at the National Antarctic Science Center of Ukraine. Ienki Ienki presented his collection in Milan on Wednesday as planned.

Anastasia Ivchenko and Eugenia Skibina plan to stay in Kyiv.

Anastasia Ivchenko and Eugenia Skibina plan to stay in Kyiv.
Courtesy

Skibina said they are keeping “cool heads and fiery hearts” and staying in touch with family and friends as a show of support. “We support each other. That’s all we can do now. We don’t give up and we do what we have to do – we tell the world about Ukraine, all its diversity of talent, its rich culture and its amazing people. she says. “There are many of us here. And we need the support of the world, while our country is on the front line.

After being in touch with her family in Kyiv on Thursday, Ukrainian-born fashion designer Nataliya Ivantsova, who runs her iconic Miami company, said they were hiding bombs in underground subway stations and old buildings, including those that had been used as shelter. during the Second World War. Noting how the airstrikes were happening from east to west in Ukraine, Ivantsova said Ukraine “can be attacked from all sides from land, sea and air.”

Some of his relatives, who live in Kharkiv, suffered an explosion right next to their house, forcing them “to take the children and flee to nowhere”. Located in the northeast of Ukraine, the city has more than 1.4 million inhabitants. They also say that Kharkiv is “so blocked that it is difficult for them to even get out of the city”, she said.

Having heard from friends in Ukraine who are actively involved in charity, Ivantsova tries to figure out how to get Ukrainian residents what they need through other friends, who work in diplomatic relations. “I was told today that even the hot water was not working. We have to figure out how things can be shipped to Ukraine because now they say a lot of airports [there] will be bombarded. Some of them have already been bombed,” she said. “We just need to figure out what we can do.”

Although the designer does some manufacturing in Kyiv, now is not the time to think about changing operations there in any way, she said. Many stocks are available in the United States and the company uses other factories, including one in Mongolia, so as not to be dependent on any factory.

“My family is fine but you don’t know what might happen next,” Ivantsova said. “The whole country could easily be on fire.”

As of Wednesday, the founders of the Gunia project, Natalia Kamenska and Maria Gavrilyuk, planned to stay in Kiev. A spokeswoman for them said on Thursday that communication in Kyiv is periodically lost due to airstrikes. She said Kamenska and Gavrilyuk would comment on Friday, adding that “today is so emotional and now the main thing for us is to survive the night.”

Sidary was among more than 100 people who attended a rally in Times Square on Thursday to protest the war in Ukraine. “After that, everyone headed to the Russian consulate,” she said. “We came back to the showroom. We still have retailers placing orders.

Recalling a call with Burenina on Thursday, Sidary said she advised the company’s employees were all safe. “She wanted to tell me that if I take orders for her brand, she will produce them and make sure retailers get their orders. It’s amazing how hard these people work. That wasn’t really why I called them.

Noting how Russia clearly wants to overtake Ukraine and harm the country’s economy, as evidenced by frozen assets and banks, Sidary said she has brands trying – so far without success – to send money to Ukrainians to donate. “They can’t even access their money,” Sidary said. “I think supporting Ukraine in every way possible is what we should be doing.”

Across the Ukrainian border in Russia, a spokesperson for the fashion-oriented department store Tsum said on Thursday that “so far nothing has changed in terms of business operations” at its Moscow and St. -Petersburg. The company also has multiple pick-up points in six cities across Russia as well as in Belarus, which also borders Ukraine. Personally, the spokesperson said: “This is a very worrying situation. We are all surprised. We watch, of course, all the meetings and check all the situations. People don’t agree. Of course, it’s not our decision. We want to live in peace and live in love.

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French fashion

Children of famous fashion brands go their own way

MILAN — When Alice Etro was a little girl, she used to spend hours after school with her father, Kean Etro, creative director of Etro menswear, playing with fabric swatches in the design studio of the fashion brand in which his grandfather Gimmo started. 1968. She creates clothes from scraps for her dolls and plays with the tubes of rolls of fabric.

“I loved everything,” she said. She remembers the thrill of watching a parade and walking alone with her parents. “I wanted to be him,” she added, of her designer dad. She was expected to follow in his footsteps and join the family business, just as he and his three siblings had followed their parents. As, indeed, has been the norm among many Italian fashion dynasties.

There is an expression in Italian – “capitalismo familiare” or family capitalism – which refers to the transmission of a private enterprise from one generation to the next, said Matteo Persivale, special correspondent for the Corriere della Sera newspaper. For decades, this has been the rule in fashion where brand stewardship has been passed down like a well-guarded saffron risotto recipe or a chalet in Cortina.

Angela, Luca and Vittorio Missoni took over from their parents, Rosita and Ottavio, the founders of Missoni, for example. Silvia Fendi is a third-generation Fendi, working in the company her grandparents Adele and Edoardo founded in 1925 (and her daughter, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, is now artistic director of jewelry). James Ferragamo, third-generation descendant of Salvatore Ferragamo, the founder of Ferragamo, is director of brand, product and communications for the family business. And one of the fourth generation of Zegna, Edoardo Zegna, is in the running to take over the brand, created in 1910 by Ermenegildo Zegna.

Entering the family business was such a common practice, says Laudomia Pucci, the daughter of Emilio Pucci, that even when she worked for Hubert de Givenchy in the late 1980s in Paris, he always told her: “Soon you will come back home to take over your father’s business. She did, in 1989, and described the concept of taking on the mantle of the family business as “quite normal and organic.”

But a combination of the globalization of luxury, which has led many family businesses to sell stakes to conglomerates or become publicly traded entities to survive, and the blurring of lines between all creative disciplines, has changed the narrative.

Increasingly, the next generation of big luxury families – often referred to as “figli d’arte”, a term referring to a child who inherits a parent’s profession, usually in the arts – is looking ahead. beyond the ancestral parapet, applying what she learned while growing up in one creative sector to work in another.

Ms. Etro, for example, 34, studied fashion design at Istituto Marangoni, one of Milan’s leading fashion schools, and spent around 10 years at another family sewing and textile company, Larusmiani. (where his uncle Guglielmo Miani is general manager).

But in 2019, rather than joining Etro as she had imagined, Ms Etro became the creative director of Westwing Italia, one of 11 national sites operated by a European interiors e-commerce retailer specializing in daily newsletters. offering a world of shopping. household items, from bed linen to dishes.

“I prefer mass over niche,” Ms. Etro said. “Luxury should be for everyone. It doesn’t have to be expensive and out of reach. Her family has been supportive of her decision to branch out, she continued, noting that these are times like the time she spent as a child in her grandmother Ghighi Miani’s atmospheric Milanese home, with its maximalist interiors, who ultimately perhaps inspired her the most.

Alessandro Marinella, 27, a fourth-generation member of the family that founded E. Marinella, the Neapolitan company known for making printed silk ties dear to President Barack Obama, is not only helping the brand grow in the field digital, but focuses on something he considers just as ingrained in the tradition of luxury as ties: food.

In 2019, Mr. Marinella co-founded Marchio Verificato, which produces, certifies and supplies Italian specialty foods. The company not only distributes some of the best Italian produce to shops and restaurants, but grows crops in the traditional way: for example, its Vesuvio Piennolo tomatoes are grown in volcanic soil, then strung on hemp threads, tied in circles and kept dry for months. .

“Eating well is important,” Mr. Marinella said, “but where and how also denotes a kind of social status.”

Technology too, according to Francesca Versace, 39, daughter of Santo Versace, brother of Donatella and founder of the Gianni brand. As a result, she traded her ready-to-wear birthright for the chance to start an NFT business.

“My love for fashion will never diminish; it’s in my heart,” she said of her family’s accomplishments. But she thinks the zeitgeist has changed.

“My gut tells me it’s time to move to the new space,” she said, referring to the metaverse. “It’s more of a cultural change than a technological one.

Later this spring, she and her partners plan to unveil Public Pressure, an NFT marketplace with an in-house NFT creative studio to help musicians, brands, and movie studios conceptualize NFT campaigns. The company – founded by Ms. Versace; Giulia Maresca, former designer of Christian Louboutin and Tod’s; Sergio Mottola, a blockchain entrepreneur; and music industry insider Alfredo Violante — is destined, Ms. Versace said, to recreate the Versace razzmatazz she remembers from her family’s fashion shows, but in the digital space.

Likewise, Larissa Castellano Pucci, 34, daughter of Laudomia and granddaughter of Emilio, thinks the future is virtual. She studied information science at Cornell University and worked as a 3D artist for Satore Studio, a creative company in London, rather than going into the family brand (which, anyway, was acquired by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2000). And in January, Ms. Pucci released her first collection on DressX, a digital-only clothing retail platform.

Called Marea, the collection included garments that shimmer like fish scales, seaweed-like billowing hems, and dresses produced from tiny digital seashells. It is now set to be part of Crypto Fashion Week, a week-long event in March dedicated to blockchain-powered digital fashion.

“It’s rare for someone so junior to have creative carte blanche,” Ms. Pucci said of the appeal of working with DressX, rather than a traditional atelier. In the real world, “it’s almost impossible to create something completely new as a young designer” because costs and small production runs hold you back.

This spring, FouLara, Ms. Pucci’s scarf brand, plans to launch an NFT minting service to allow users to design and mint custom NFT prints.

Laudomia Pucci said she was thrilled Larissa was trying something that resonated with her and her generation – and she thinks Emilio Pucci would have looked on with affection too. “It’s necessary in Italy,” she said. “We have to look to the future, not just to our great past.”

Her daughter agreed. “If you come from a background that has so many things, you follow in the footsteps or try to forge your own identity,” Ms. Pucci said. “Otherwise, it is abusive. I can only re-imagine my legacy; I can’t escape it.

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Fashion style

10 Indian fashion labels that will add a local touch to your wardrobe

With the pandemic threatening our lives for 2 years, small businesses and local homeowners have suffered massively. Over time, influencers, fashion bloggers have taken it upon themselves to promote small businesses and advocate for these brands. Local brands have received much-needed support from the population. They have been creating top quality products that are fashionable, fashionable and available at affordable prices for a very long time. Several small businesses are thriving and these brands have some of the coolest products that even fast fashion brands don’t have. Small businesses are popping up every day and they are growing massively and we bring you some of the best local fashion brands that will blow your mind and make you feel your best in fashion.

1) The loom

The loom is everywhere in all fashion bloggers instagram. Their desi pieces are made with love and have some of the most beautiful designs. From floral prints to bright colors, their outfits have simple embroidery. These pretty summer outfits are comfortable, absolutely easy to put on and you’re done!

2) That girl likes

That girl likes makes some of the coolest designs, like fitted corsets, leather tie sets, dresses, belts with intricate patterns and delicate craftsmanship that’s pretty much every girl’s dream come true. You can style them with just about anything to spice up any basic outfit and make it look like a million bucks.

3) Freakins

Freakins as a brand pushes you to be more you and offer some of the most authentic designer bottoms. They have several styles ranging from wide leg denim to ripped jeans to straight cuts and more. They are affordable, fashionable and have some of the youngest pieces to pull off that perfect instagram classy look.

4) Shop Thesto

Thesto is a one-stop destination for all accessories lovers. Their pieces are funky and have the perfect pinterest atmosphere. They have a wide range of bags, chunky jewelry, and just about every trendy thing we see flooding our instagram feeds itself. They have so much to offer and there’s no reason not to take advantage of it.

5) Zohra

Zohra is a instagram jewelry store. Everyone else you see knows this store and is obsessed with their dainty and cute jewelry. Dainty chains, chunky bracelets and rings, they have a bit of everything and it doesn’t disappoint.

6) Blue tea

Blue tea is an indigenous denim brand that offers the most stylish denim in a multitude of colors and styles. This brand is slowly becoming everyone’s favorite and we are obsessed with these fashionable bottoms.

7) talking toe

This brand by Nazi and Incha has the prettiest poppy colored juttis that you can style with almost anything and everything. If you’re feeling desi, buy a pair and you’re good to go and if you’re in the mood for a funky fusion, wear these juttis with jeans and a white shirt and you’ll make quite the statement.

8) Mak & Cie

This page should be your one stop destination for all things bohemian. Wrap tops, caftans, dresses, blouses, dupattas, skirts with the most beautiful prints. They are easy to style and look effortlessly chic.

9) Tag the label

Tag the label is again one of the best clothing stores on instagram featuring fun prints, soft colors and unique designs with ties, criss cross patterns, balloon and bell sleeve tops with daring cuts and backless designs that will practically steal the show when you step out for your next outing.

ten) Urban Suburb

Urban Suburb is a boutique based in Surat created by girls. The brand offers the most beautiful dresses, sets, tops, jumpsuits and more. Their designs are particular and always stand out for their silhouettes, colors and designs.

Follow @missmalinifashion for more on all things fashion and download the Girl Tribe by MissMalini App to join our Fashion & Beauty community.

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Fashion designer

Villanelle’s most iconic looks on Killing Eve

Photos: BBC America

There is an unwritten rule that assassins and spies also have an endless clothing allowance to help their abilities assimilate in any given circumstance. It’s also common in the world of subterfuge — or at least the version we see on TV or in movies — that a clothing skill set is a valuable asset. Jodie Comer as Deadly Villanelle in BBC America Kill Eve ticked both of those boxes from the very first episode and this character puts her fashion best foot forward in any scenario.

Designer Phoebe Waller-Bridge is long gone and the showrunner has changed with each season, but one constant is Villanelle’s playful attitude towards her work and leisure wear. Thanks to multiple stab wounds (including her own), the hitman never lost her fondness for expensive designer yarn, her Paris base helping to fuel her passion for high-end shopping. Three different costume designers brought Villanelle’s closet to life and turned the series into a living editorial starring Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Isabel Marant. After a long game of cat and mouse, Eve (Sandra Oh) and Villanelle have come to some sort of understanding, and the fourth and final season is set to rely heavily on symbolic imagery. On the eve (pardon the pun) of the critically acclaimed hit’s return, here are Villanelle’s definitive fashion moments from the show’s first three seasons.

Journey to Tuscany (Season 1, Episode 1, “Nice Face”)

From the first episode, Villanelle’s ability to blend into any setting is on display when she grabs a sky blue Burberry dress from the nearest closet and blackmails it at a wedding reception, but the outfit she wears when entering the beautiful villa is a little more reflective of her fashion personality. It’s not exactly incognito, but it shows her flair for casual fashion with an edge. The tailored Celine pussy-bow blouse, cut-off denim shorts and Doc Marten boots combine hard and soft visuals, which serve to highlight Villanelle’s contradictions from the start.

Pretty in Pink (Season 1, Episode 2, “I’ll Deal With Him Later”)

Villanelle wearing a voluminous bubblegum pink Molly Goddard tiered tulle dress paired with Balenciaga boots tells us all we need to know about her love of fashion and her disdain for the obligatory therapy session. Arguably the most revered of Villanelle’s fashion choices among fans, costume designer Phoebe De Gaye got the tongues wagging right from the start. A callback in Season 2 saw Villanelle killing an influencer guy with her words after she asked for a photo of her candy-colored outfit (“No, of course not. Don’t be pathetic. Get a real life!”). Luckily, it was just a nod rather than trying to recreate this singular costume.

Tailored Terror (Season 1, Episode 3, “I Don’t Know You?”)

The garment becomes a kind of business card at the start of this obsession shared between the two women. Their paths cross when Eve travels to Berlin to investigate Villanelle’s crimes, and the killer sneaks off with Eve’s suitcase. Her assessment of content is withering, and no doubt she wants to sprinkle some makeover magic on the woman following her — for what it’s worth, Eve mentions that she hates her own clothes. A green scarf with a zebra print is how Eve Bill’s (David Haig) best friend meets his untimely (and gruesome) end when he recognizes Villanelle wearing the accessory he gave his friend. Dries Van Noten’s graphic-print power suit isn’t exactly Berlin nightclub material, but Villanelle isn’t one to follow the rules.

Post-Prison Discussions (Season 1, Episode 7, “I Don’t Want to Be Free”)

Villanelle’s brief stint in a Russian prison separates the killer from her enviable wardrobe, but this shaggy jacket, black skinny jeans and another fantastic pair of ankle boots tap into a ’90s aesthetic that remains popular. Even the rustic Villanelle is in fashion.

Pop Art Pajamas (Season 2, Episode 1, “Do You Know How to Get Rid of a Body?)

Rather than a high-fashion twist, Season 2 costume designer Charlotte Mitchell makes a bold statement on Roy Lichtenstein with a set of custom pajamas. The Pop Art theme isn’t a case of Villanelle trying to blend in at a sleepover, but a necessity when she’s fleeing her hospital bed. Recovering from a stab inflicted by Eve introduces her to the young Gabriel (Pierre Atri) who is the originator of this colorful outfit, and another victim on the assassin’s long list. It’s perhaps the most shocking murder Villanelle commits, and the fanciful bedding doesn’t diminish the horror of this moment – even if she considers it an act of mercy. It’s not the kind of loungewear she would choose herself, but definitely Kill Eve fans would snag a pair. In fact, the original set worn by Comer was sold for nearly $13,000 at auction in 2020.

Sartorial Swine (Season 2, Episode 4, “Desperate Times”)

Never let it be said that Villanelle doesn’t embrace the theater or take on her surroundings. In Amsterdam, she sees the curiosities accompanied by Konstantin (Kim Bodnia) and brings up the stench in the gallery in front of a awful painting by Jan de Baen catches his eye. Villanelle adds a Red Light District twist to “The Dead Bodies of the De Witt Brothers” by swapping out her Vogue-ready Dutch outfit (which includes an Alexander McQueen blazer and Rosie Assoulin satin blouse) for a perverse pig mask and a hybrid of schoolgirl. “Looks like bacon,” is Villanelle’s assessment of the 17th-century artwork that influences her latest murder tableau, which is mistaken for an elaborate performance by onlookers.

Widow Chic (Season 2, Episode 5, “Smell Ya Later”)

It’s no big surprise that Villanelle goes all out with her outfit when MI6 throws a punch at Eve and hires Villanelle to do the deed. Eve is in on it, and it’s the only way to get his attention, but this face-off is tense from previous stabbings. “Nice outfit” jokes Eve about the vintage Alexander McQueen sheer dress and dramatic polka-dot lace veil that taps into a theme. “I’m about to be in mourning,” she explains of her choice of widow-ready glamour. In the woods, the high-necked silhouette adds a fairytale villain element that wouldn’t be over the top for the international assassin.

Back to School (Season 2, Episode 5, “Smell Ya Later)

Adapting to your surroundings is key when working in this murky world and Villanelle loves to play dress up. She’s also incredibly versatile, going from ultra-feminine widow attire to looking like a chariots of fire additional at a glance. A brief detour to Oxford to set Eve’s wedding on fire sees her embracing the preppy slung sweater for maximum effect.

Crimson Queen (Season 2, Episode 8, “You’re Mine”)

There’s a lot of back-and-forth in the Season 2 finale in Rome with Eve and Villanelle saving the other from danger. The red Lanvin ensemble is part of Villanelle’s cover to ensnare tech villain Aaron Peel (Henry Lloyd-Hughes), and black belt Gucci breaks up the coordinating ensemble. At the hotel, she almost matches the ax wielded against her, and this costume looks even better after ditching the rose-tinted wig. The final showdown among the ruins gives the Italian tourist board a boost, and Villanelle plots sweet revenge in this femme fatale outfit.

Floral Fashionista (Season 3, Episode 2, “Management Sucks”)

Switching Paris for Barcelona in season three doesn’t lessen Villanelle’s penchant for expensive clothes. A stunning floral Vampire’s Wife dress that has since been dubbed the “Villanelle Dress” (and is always available to buy) immediately attracts attention. Even her hair gets the flower memo and if you didn’t know she was a hitman, you’d almost certainly think she worked in the fashion industry. It’s in stark contrast to Eve’s kitchen worker uniform and her mentor Dasha’s (Harriet Walter) Eurotrash outfit.

Feathered Hole in One (Season 3, Episode 7, “Beautiful Monster”)

Golf is known for its eye-catching lozenges, but Charlotte Knowles’ rich green feather-checked bomber jacket and high-waisted Gucci pants are a big swing that taps into the “handsome monster” of the episode’s title. Season three costume designer Sam Perry (who returns for season four) leans into the weird for the Aberdeen setting as Villanelle plays the novice on the golf course as part of the trick – his Scottish accent is also perfect. In a surprise move, she hits Dasha with the club instead of the intended target, and her rebellion against those who kicked her up a notch. It may be time for the traditional green jacket awarded to the Masters winner to get a makeover.

Power Print Pantsuit (Season 3, Episode 8, “Are You Leading or Am I?”)

A common thread throughout all three seasons is the reliability of a patterned power suit. A tailored masculine influence doesn’t have to be boring or subtle, and this marble geometric Halpern number is the boldest in the series yet. Villanelle takes to the dance floor with Eve – whose black suit and turtleneck complement the chaotic print – but rather than repeat what she did in Berlin to Bill, the pair join the waltz couples. Eve says the episode title, to which Villanelle responds “I have no idea”. The peace is short-lived, but the suit ends up coming in handy in a fight to the death against fellow assassin Rhian (Alexandra Roach).

Canary Crossroads (Season 3, Episode 8, “Are You Leading or Am I?”)

Villanelle wants out of the killing industry and the season three finale sets that in motion before culminating in a kind of farewell on London Bridge. Villanelle stands out in an oversized canary yellow Loewe coat and Ann Demeulemeester biker boots for the second half of the final. Everyone is muted, but Villanelle is rethinking her craft, not her love of fashion. This outerwear looks like Anya Taylor-Joy’s contemporary eye-popping cousin Emma. attire, which, as Eve finds out in the final moments, is impossible to look away from.

Kill Eve returns to BBC America on Sunday, February 26 at 8:00 p.m. ET. After the premiere, episodes will air a week earlier on AMC+.

people talk about Kill Eve in our forums. Join the conversation.

Emma Fraser has wanted to write about TV ever since she first watched My So-Called Life in the mid-’90s, finally getting her wish more than a decade later. Follow her on Twitter at @frazbelina.

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French fashion

How to Do a Disco Ball French Manicure, According to a Nail Pro

When you’re looking for the ultimate nail design, you turn to Natalie Minerva. The famous nail artist behind the epic manicures on Euphoria has been giving us enviable designs and looks for years. But the one I – and I suspect many others – can’t overlook are these disco ball nails (which look amazing anywhere or as French tips).

Shiny and intricate, Minerva’s disco ball nail art designs are truly breathtaking. They make the perfect night manicure. A self-confessed huge disco music head (which she credits to her days working at A Club Called Rhonda), Minerva drew inspiration from the fun party era of the ’70s for this particular look. “I love linking other eras to my art and when I found these glittery pieces, a light bulb went on in my head,” she told Bustle. “I love how these nails are so visual and eye-catching; They shout ‘party time‘ volume.”

But the best part about these nails is that they are surprisingly easy to do on your own – you just need a little patience. To get the full disco ball nail look, she first puts on a gel base coat and lets it cure under a gel lamp. She then grabs a silver gel polish, the Ricca Gel in 123G to be exactto paint on each nail and repeat the curing process.

Then she will slide on Afternoon Gentle Builder Gel, but it is important that you do not let it heal immediately. While it’s still going to bed, she says to place your silver glitter in rows to mimic that disco ball effect. Once you’ve got each sequin in place, put your nails back under the light to cure them. She then adds more Soft Builder Gel on top, hardens it, then seals it all with a clear gel topcoat before finishing with a final hardening process.

For a more subtle way to incorporate this retro trend, opt for a French tips disco ball. The steps to achieve this are quite similar to a full disco look. She starts the same way, putting base gel all over the nail and letting it cure under a gel light. Next, she puts the same silver Ricca Gel in 123G along the top of the nail, creating a base for that French tip. After letting this silver shade harden, she applies a coat of Soft Builder Gel for the silver glitter. Once all the stuff is done, she corrects that to fix the sequins. She then finishes with more Soft Builder Gel on top, hardens that, and seals it all in with a gel topcoat.

Classic silver looks great, but experimentation is highly encouraged. “In general, we’re in a very exploratory time in nails right now and I love it,” says Minerva. “At the end of the day, we won’t be holding back on our nail art this year.”

We only include products that have been independently selected by Bustle’s editorial team. However, we may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.

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Fashion brand

Former Marvel Executive Director Cort Lane Joins eOne as VP of Original Content, Fashion Brands

Following the announcement last week of Netflix premiering on My little Pony 3D CG Specials and Series, Hasbro’s Entertainment One (eOne) has tapped the project’s Executive Producer, Cort Lane, to join the company as Vice President of Original Content, Fashion Brands. Reporting to Olivier Dumont, President of Family Brands at eOne, Lane will lead the development and creation of a listing leveraging Hasbro’s rich IP library and original projects.

“I have never had as much fun on a project as on My Little Pony: Make Your Mark and I attribute that to the brilliant and supportive team at eOne Family Brands,” said Lane Animation magazinee. “I’m thrilled at the opportunity to collaborate on their uplifting, relatable and joyful entertainment for kids of all ages and girls in particular!”

Prior to eOne, Lane spent 12 years at Marvel/Disney, completing his tenure as head of Marvel’s Family Entertainment group. His Marvel credits include Ultimate Spider-Man, Black Panther’s Quest, Avengers Assemble, The Super Hero Squad Show, numerous Lego/Marvel co-pros, and development of the recent success of Disney Jr. marvel’s Spidey and his amazing friends.

Previously, Lane spent 7 years at Mattel, producing for Barbie, Fisher-Price and many other brands. Most recently, the Lane executive produced the Outfest Grand Jury Prize-winning documentary No Straight Lines: The Rise of Queer Comics. Lane also continues his role on GLAAD’s Child and Family Advisory Council.

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Fashion style

LFW street style to inspire your wardrobe this week

Whenever fashion week rolls around, we like to celebrate the event in all its glory, including its inimitable street style. As the catwalks return to London once again, this time for designers to showcase their Autumn/Winter 2022 collections, we’re looking to the UK capital to seek sartorial inspiration directly from the streets.

It’s especially exciting after the past two years, where fashion week has been suspended due to the pandemic. A recent easing of restrictions in the four major fashion capitals has allowed fashion week to take place in a physical setting – meaning many designers are returning to a physical catwalk and, with that, many well-attended guests. dressed are seated in the audience.

It sounds like a very exciting and optimistic time for fashion, a sentiment that is certainly reflected in this season’s street style. We saw attendees experiment more than ever, proving that we all fully embrace the return of fashion week and the opportunity to get dressed.

It’s this freedom to express ourselves that makes London Fashion Week so incredibly exciting. Some of the most stylish women in town have already said Bazaar how they like that there are no limits when it comes to fashion here.

“There is no limit to what you can experiment with and it has allowed me – especially as a youngster in fashion – to find what I can now define as my style,” explained Anna Vitiello. “I’ve always loved volumes and couture-inspired pieces and living in London means I can be as flamboyant as I want, without ever feeling judged or watched. In the same breath, a lot of Londoners are very laid-back – never do too much stand up or look too much, try hard – and do it really well too.”

Here we feature our favorite street style ensembles from London Fashion Week this season, with tips on how to apply the looks to your own wardrobe.

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Fashion designer

The youngest Indian designer to present his collection at Paris Fashion Week

It’s a dream come true for Binal Patel, designer and founder of ‘TheRealB’, who is set to present her collection at Paris Fashion Week on February 28.

Binal is 25 years old and the founder of a local ready-to-wear brand that embraces authenticity in craftsmanship, fabrics, colors and culture. The label caters to an ever-changing aesthetic of real confident beauties and is available through online and offline platforms on its official website and e-commerce sites like Nykaa Luxe, Salt Studio, Asos, ZoWed, Aza Fashions, Pernia’s Pop up, Azra, Deccan, the house of labels.

Ahead of her show in Paris, Binal talks to IANSlife about what it’s like to show off her designs at one of fashion’s biggest events. Read excerpts:

Q: How is it to be part of Paris Fashion Week?

A: When Flying Solo approached us to participate in Paris Fashion Week, we were thrilled! It gave wings to my whole team who supported me from day one through the ups and downs. It is literally a concrete example of “A dream come true”. And I’m quite proud of myself and my team because our efforts have paid off. This is a proud moment for India.

Q: What can we expect from the collection?

A: Well, that’s a surprise! But to give you some clues, the collection will have twists and turns with bold and fun designs that will make you feel sexier. And that is, “Why should only girls have fun?”

Q: What kinds of surface textures and techniques can we expect?

A: The collection will feature a touch of texture and sheer fabrics as well as animal prints. Again, the rest is surprise, we will see a lot of fun and innovation on the track.

Q: Are you a fan of slow or fast fashion?

A: I’m a big believer in slow fashion, in addition to designing luxurious styles, creating a conscious and sustainable clothing line is also of the utmost importance to me.

Q: What is your design philosophy?

A: Nature has always been the inspiration behind all my collections, all my designs are imbued with elements of nature. Creating bold, tailored fashion is my design philosophy, but again, as I mentioned, creating conscious clothing will always be my priority. We have designs made from orange peel, regenerated nylon, banana cloth, milk cloth and more.

Q: Are you all nervous or super excited about the screening?

A: There are mixed feelings, half of me dances and jumps with enthusiasm while the other half spends restless nights because I want to create the right impression.

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French fashion

Nigerian bronzes looted from Benin return, more than a century later

Written by Story by Reuters

Two bronzes from Benin were returned to a traditional palace in Nigeria on Saturday, more than a century after they were looted by British troops, raising hopes that thousands more artefacts may finally be returned to their ancestral homes.
The artifacts, mostly in Europe, were stolen by explorers and colonizers from the ancient kingdom of Benin, now in southwestern Nigeria, and are among Africa’s most important heritage items. They were created as early as the 16th century, according to the British Museum.

In a colorful ceremony to mark the return of a rooster sculpture and the head of an Oba or a king, spokesman Charles Edosonmwan of the Oba Palace in Benin City noted that some of the bronzes were kept to New Zealand, the United States and Japan. .

One of the repatriated artifacts that were looted from Nigeria over 125 years ago by British military force sits on a table inside the Oba Palace in Benin. Credit: Kola Sulaimon/AFP/Getty Images

The two artifacts were handed over to the Nigerian High Commission in October by the University of Aberdeen and Jesus College, University of Cambridge, but had not yet been returned to their ancestral home.

“It’s not just art, but it’s things that highlight the importance of our spirituality,” Edosonmwan said in an interview on the sidelines of a ceremony attended by traditional leaders.

The return is another milestone in the years-long struggle of African countries to recover looted works, as many European institutions grapple with the cultural legacy of colonialism.

About 90% of African cultural heritage is in Europe, estimate French art historians. The musée du quai Branly — Jacques-Chirac in Paris alone holds around 70,000 African objects and the British Museum in London tens of thousands more.

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Fashion brand

Top 5 Rules of a Successful Fashion Buy for Growing Your Brand

There is buying, then there is buying for growth. Michaela Wessels, CEO and Co-Founder of Style Arcade, explains how to build a robust buying strategy that supports your winners and really moves the needle.

1. Prioritize your quantities

Business growth and expansion relies on creating a tiered buying strategy, where you use different levels of depth per option. When most fashion companies first enter the market, there is no historical data to base their decisions on, so they often allocate the same number of units to each style.

This practice is very restrictive, because as a general rule: 20% of the styles will make 80% of your sales. If you launch with 100 styles, by the time you hit the six-week mark, you’ll find the 20 styles that made 80% of your sales.

Understand your sell rate

To understand your weekly sales rate (WROS), calculate how many units of a product you sell on average per week. From there, simply add 20-30% to your average sell rate to estimate your upper threshold, and minus 20-30% to determine your lower threshold.

For example, if these top styles start moving 40 units per week and selling out in two weeks, you can simply adjust your high, medium, and low quantities for the following season, based on your new sell rate.

The 80/20 rule

Better known as the Pareto principle in different industries, in fashion buying and merchandising, 80% of your sales are made up of 20% of your styles.

Focus on your 20 percent

Suppose you buy 500 styles per month, choose 100 that will bring you the most sales. Once you’ve convinced your team with your data learnings, support those styles with depth.

How to identify bestsellers

Your historical performance should help identify a number of models, including the silhouette your customers love and want more of.

Once you’ve identified your most popular shapes and chosen your best sellers for your next season, you can simply take the historical attributes and rework them based on their past performance.

Determine the price

There is an upper, middle and lower price for each collection. To get the most out of your top 20% selling styles, you need to find a sweet spot for your customers. Understanding your pricing strategy and determining the median price they’ll be happy to part with for the styles they really want means you can allocate larger volumes where it hits and cover your margins.

3. Extend your waistline

Extending size runs can create growth. If you look at your ratio and the final sizes represent more than 15% of the total sales, then you have the option of adding a fringe size.

To test this, be sure to look at commonalities in silhouettes and colors where you want to introduce the fringe size. While all styles sold in size 14 are color-blocked, the future range indicates that a size 16 is required. Along the same lines, if size 6 primarily sells floral prints, there is an indication that you should expand to 4, but there is no indication to expand to 16.

A Style Arcade brand showed that 28% of sales in a particular category came from XS. On the team’s next purchase, they added an XXS, opening the door for them to $1.1 million a year in revenue.

4. Determine which styles are never out of stock

Fashion merchandising best practices involve constantly keeping an eye on identifying your star products. Most of the fashion brands we work with have a 20% share of styles that live all year round and dampen their bottom line.

Even the biggest premium brands have their flagships; think of Louis Vuitton’s Neverfull tote or the Gucci Marmont belt. The great thing about being online is that you can hide 40,000 Gucci belts behind a little placeholder image, the image that helps with an 80% conversion rate.

5. Proactive Markdowns

Clear as You Go (CAYG) is a retail price reduction strategy that involves recognizing slow moves after six weeks and discounting them early. Shopbop is famous for having discounts on the new arrivals page because they know the value of clearing inventory early. Cut back when it will actually move the needle and don’t be afraid to avoid aging stock.

This strategy will save you less, save your business margin and free up cash flow. It really is a win-win.

Full article originally posted on stylearcade.com. For more retail news like this, sign up to Style Arcade’s blog today.

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Fashion style

Sabrina Elba flaunts her quirky sense of style in a navy jumpsuit for the LFW Richard Quinn show

Sabrina Elba flaunts her quirky sense of style in a navy jumpsuit as she arrives for the Richard Quinn show at London Fashion Week










She has been married to idol actor Idris since 2019.

And Sabrina Elba showed off her quirky sense of style as she joined a slew of stars at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week on Saturday.

The model, 33, cut a relaxed figure in the relaxed zip-up one-piece paired with black lace-up boots as she arrived for the event.

Comfortable! Sabrina Elba showed off her quirky sense of style as she joined a host of stars at the Richard Quinn show during London Fashion Week on Saturday

Escaping the traditional glamorous dress worn by so many stars, Sabrina sported the comfortable dark blue jumpsuit with a simple black shoulder bag.

Beaming as she arrived for the show, she accessorized her look with chunky black boots.

Designer Richard is known for his range of eclectic prints and floral designers, and in 2018 his show became the first show attended by Queen Elizabeth II.

Simple: The model cut a relaxed figure in the relaxed zip-up one-piece paired with black lace-up boots as she arrived for the event

Simple: The model cut a relaxed figure in the relaxed zip-up one-piece paired with black lace-up boots as she arrived for the event

Simple: Escaping the traditional glamorous dress worn by so many stars, Sabrina sported the comfortable dark blue jumpsuit with a simple black shoulder bag

Simple: Escaping the traditional glamorous dress worn by so many stars, Sabrina sported the comfortable dark blue jumpsuit with a simple black shoulder bag

Sabrina and Idris exchanged vows at the Ksar Char Bagh hotel in Marrakech surrounded by 150 of their loved ones in April 2019.

Last summer, the married couple opened up about how their marriage was “always growing, changing and evolving.”

They explained that they are “learning every day” and want to share their experience with others by openly exploring their relationship on their Coupledom podcast.

Speaking to People, Idris explained that after two previous marriages, “I said I would never marry again and here I was about to marry Sabrina, and we really wondered why. ”

Low-key: Radiant as she arrived for the show, she accessorized her look with chunky black boots

Low-key: Radiant as she arrived for the show, she accessorized her look with chunky black boots

Happy: Inside the show, Sabrina was seen posing with fellow fashion favorite Jourdan Dunn

Happy: Inside the show, Sabrina was seen posing with fellow fashion favorite Jourdan Dunn

After meeting Sabrina in 2017 at a Vancouver jazz bar, the actor gushed: “We started dating and I fell head over heels. ‘Everyone was like, ‘Hey man, you seem so much happier.’

“I didn’t know I was, but the truth is, it really sparked a lot of conversations about how a partnership can bring out the best in you.”

Speaking about why they decided to dive into their relationship on a podcast, he insisted, “We learn every day that sharing is a good thing.”

Sabrina described their marriage as “constantly growing, changing and evolving”, explaining that they are not only newlyweds, but also new business partners.

She gushed: ‘Idris is my best friend. I want to be with this guy every day of my life, so it’s really awesome to be able to see what this turns into.

Mr and Mrs: Sabrina and actor Idris exchanged their vows at the Ksar Char Bagh hotel in Marrakech surrounded by 150 of their relatives in April 2019

Mr and Mrs: Sabrina and actor Idris exchanged their vows at the Ksar Char Bagh hotel in Marrakech surrounded by 150 of their relatives in April 2019

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Fashion designer

The Peninsula designer and entrepreneur has a real passion for fashion – Peace Arch News

Where will the next new wave of fashion come from?

It may be the Semiahmoo Peninsula, courtesy of Serena Kealy, a recent graduate of Earl Marriott Secondary (and last year’s valedictorian).

Now a full-time student at UBC and UBC’s Sauder Business School, the 18-year-old, raised in South Surrey and White Rock, has just booked her first show for Vancouver Fashion Week in April.

Fashion design is my passion and I studied it all through high school, winning local competitions,” she said. Peace Ark News.

“I am incredibly honored and thrilled to have this opportunity at such a young age,” Kealy said, noting the unwavering support of her family, including younger sister Julia, and her extended family, as well as the encouragement and support. mentorship from her textile teachers throughout her education. school years.

“I first discovered my love for fashion when I was in 7th grade, when a wonderful family friend taught me how to sew and mentored me,” she said.

“I started studying textiles every year as part of my home economics elective. I realized it was something I could do as a career and something I could create my own brand with.

That brand is ‘Chalanse’ and it – and more specifically a new collection of eight looks – will be showcased at the April event, for which specific dates are still being finalized.

Chalanse encompasses the original custom apparel it designs, sews and markets, as well as a line of accessories, manufactured graphic t-shirts and cohesive clothing collections.

Her concept is her own very personal interpretation of “business casual” clothing, in which she can take the classic structural elements of traditional clothing, but transform them through her love of fabrics and textiles to include unexpected and luxurious choices – silk for a suit, for example, or bold pink instead of formal black, or combining “strong, bold shapes with delicate, feminine styling.”

Kealy created Chalanse — the word is a play on “nonchalance,” incorporating an “S” for her first initial — about two years ago when she was still at Marriott.

Rather than studied casualness, her garments are meant to evoke a sense of “confidence and commitment” from the wearer, Kealy explained.

She considers herself lucky that although she started the business at the start of the pandemic, she has been able to connect with individual clients over the past two summers for whom she has handcrafted individual pieces, gaining valuable first-hand experience along the way. .

“The way people like to feel in clothes and the way they like them to fit helps me refine my clothes,” she said.

It helps that she discovered she had an affinity for business too, she acknowledged.

“I not only love being a fashion designer, but also being an entrepreneur,” she said. “I realized that this is something I want to do for the rest of my life. Every day, while sewing, I fall more and more in love with my job.

Studying business at UBC gave Kealy additional skills in developing contacts, which gave her the courage to approach the organizers of Vancouver Fashion Week and present her collection to them.

It didn’t hurt, she said she was a longtime follower of the event.

“I dream big,” she said. “And having my own collection at Vancouver Fashion Week has long been a dream of mine.”

She admits to having “butterflies” thinking that her creations are going to be presented in such a prestigious forum.

“Once in a while I have to go somewhere and do my happy dance,” she laughed.

And the next big dream?

“I’m thinking of doing international fashion weeks, going to New York and Paris,” she said.

“It would also be great to have the opportunity to work in costume design.”

In the meantime, she said, she knows she must continue to hone her craft in “practice, practice, practice” – even though her mature approach leaves no doubt that she will have the focus and the discipline needed to go the distance in his choice. profession.

“I’m still a work in progress,” she added with a laugh.

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French fashion

Entertainment News Roundup: The Blonds wrap up New York Fashion Week with a scintillating show; Brad Pitt sues his ex-wife Angelina Jolie for selling a stake in a French vineyard and more

Below is a summary of the entertainment news briefs.

The Blonds close New York Fashion Week with a scintillating show

Designer duo The Blonds wrapped up New York Fashion Week on Wednesday with a glittering show of hand-stitched outfits covered in laser-cut crystals, glittering heels and jewels. The brand, which co-designer Phillipe Blond described as extremely over-the-top, bubbly and dangerous, drew inspiration from vampires and The Matrix for its fall 2022 collection.

Ten million Americans tune in to watch Olympic figure skating drama

15-year-old Russian figure skater Kamila Valieva’s failing performance during Thursday night’s long routine drew an audience of 10.3 million on Olympic TV and NBCUniversal’s digital broadcasts, figures show. of the network. The U.S. prime-time replay of the skating competition drew 1.4 million more viewers than the previous night’s Olympic coverage, NBC said.

Rupert Murdoch family documentary slated for CNN+ streaming service

A new documentary series, “The Murdochs: Empire of Influence,” will premiere on CNN+ when the streaming subscription service launches in the spring, the company announced Thursday. The series is based on the New York Times Magazine article by Jonathan Mahler and Jim Rutenberg titled “How Rupert Murdoch’s Empire of Influence Remade the World”, which examined the legacy of media mogul Rupert Murdoch.

The Oscars will require COVID tests for all, vaccines for most

The Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences will require attendees of the 94th Academy Awards in March to show proof of a COVID-19 vaccination and at least two negative PCR test results, a person with knowledge said Thursday. the subject. Performers and presenters with the film industry’s highest honors must also undergo polymerase chain reaction (PCR) testing, but will not need to show proof of vaccination, the source said.

Paul McCartney announces a 14-date US tour, first concerts since 2019

Sir Paul McCartney plans to kick off a 14-date US concert tour of the Pacific Northwest this spring, marking his first streak of live performances since wrapping up a world tour in 2019, the former Beatle announced on Friday. . The “Got Back” tour will open April 28 in Spokane, Wash., McCartney’s first show in that city, followed by back-to-back shows at Seattle’s Climate Pledge Arena on May 2 and 3, according to the published tour schedule. on its official website.

Brad Pitt is suing his ex-wife Angelina Jolie for selling a stake in a French vineyard

Brad Pitt has sued his ex-wife Angelina Jolie for selling her stake in a French wine estate they bought together – and where they were married – to a Russian businessman. In a lawsuit filed in Los Angeles on Thursday, Pitt said Jolie broke their agreement not to sell their interests in Chateau Miraval without the other’s consent by selling her stake to a unit of Stoli Group, a controlled spirits maker. by oligarch Yuri Shefler.

Spanish story of family farm under threat wins Berlinale Golden Bear

Spanish director Carla Simon’s ‘Alcarras’, which explores the divisions torn within a close-knit family of Catalan farmers as they face eviction from their ancestral plot, won the Film Festival’s top prize on Wednesday. from Berlin. Simon herself grew up on a peach farm in the village of Alcarras, and her film was made with amateur actors from that region whom she recruited at village fairs and trained to play several generations of a family. smallholders.

Assassin’s Creed maker Ubisoft sees fiscal year results below forecasts

Ubisoft, the maker of the hit “Assassin’s Creed” video game franchise, said Thursday it expects to report full-year results at the lower end of its guidance despite ongoing fourth-quarter growth. “We can still reach the top of (the forecast) because we have a lot of content to release and an upside is possible, but it’s fair to say that at the moment the forecast is at the lower end of the forecast” , said the chief financial officer. said Frederick Duguet during a conference call.

Pop star Troye Sivan fights HIV stigma in his first major film role

Australian pop singer Troye Sivan, whose YouTube videos and music have inspired a generation of LGBTQ+ young people, wants his first major film role to challenge ignorance around HIV/AIDS. In “Three Months,” Sivan plays 17-year-old Caleb, who is exposed to HIV after a one-night stand on the eve of his high school graduation.

Iconic Madonna dress and pre-Beatles drum kit up for auction in California

The pink Marilyn Monroe-style dress worn by pop star Madonna in her 1984 ‘Material Girl’ music video and a drum set used by the prototype Beatles are some of the items up for auction at a musical memorabilia auction in California. The Madonna lot, consisting of a pink satin dress with a strapless top and an oversized pink satin bow, satin opera gloves and rhinestone bracelets, is estimated between $100,000 and $200,000 when it will go under the hammer in May, as part of the “Music Icons” auction at Julien’s Auctions.

(With agency contributions.)

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Fashion brand

Finnish fashion brand Marimekko’s sales increased 23% in FY21

Net sales of Finnish fashion and textile company Marimekko increased by 23% to 152.2 million euros (123.6) in the 2021 financial year. Net sales were boosted in particular by a favorable trend in wholesale and retail sales in Finland. In addition, wholesale sales in the Asia-Pacific region and Scandinavia as well as retail sales in North America increased strongly.

Operating profit improved to €31.2 million (18.8) in 2021. Comparable operating profit increased by 59% to €31.2 million (19.6 ). Profits were boosted in particular by the increase in net sales, but also by the improvement in the relative sales margin. On the other hand, an increase in fixed costs had a weakening impact on results.

In the fourth quarter of fiscal 2021, Marimekko’s net sales increased by 29% to €48.1 million (37.4). In Finland, net sales increased by 32%, international net sales increased by 23%, Marimekko said in a press release.

“Key drivers of our strong performance include our long-term efforts to modernize our brand and lifestyle collections, strengthen our digital business and omnichannel customer experience as well as increasing our brand’s international awareness of year after year”, Tiina Alahuhta-Kasko, President and CEO, noted.

“The new operational practices we have adopted during the pandemic and our agility to react to the constantly changing operational environment have also been important factors. I take this opportunity to express my deep gratitude to the entire Marimekko team for their tremendous work: in the face of difficult market conditions, our staff met with passion and perseverance the challenges created by the pandemic while continuing our efforts to accelerate our long-term profitable growth,” Alahuhta-Kasko explained.

Marimekko Group’s net sales for 2022 are expected to increase compared to the previous year. The comparable operating profit margin is estimated at around 17-20%. Global supply chain disruptions and general increases in material and logistics costs, in particular, are causing volatility in the outlook for 2022.

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Runway of Dreams Launches Adaptive Fashion Show in Los Angeles – Footwear News

The Runway of Dreams Foundation is heading west.

The non-profit organization working for inclusion, acceptance and opportunity in the fashion industry for people with disabilities will hold its first show in Los Angeles next month. The one-of-a-kind adaptive fashion show, aptly titled “A Fashion Revolution” is presented by Kohl’s and will take place at NeueHouse Studios in Hollywood on March 8.

According to the organization, the evening will feature adaptive clothing and footwear from top brands such as main sponsor Kohl’s and other sponsors such as Target, Zappos, JCPenney, Tommy Hilfiger Adaptive, No Limbits and Stride Rite. This will be the first time these brands have showcased their responsive designs on the same runway in Los Angeles. Notably, LVMH provided support with platinum sponsorship of the fashion show event, the nonprofit organization said.

“Hollywood is all about making dreams come true, and it felt fitting that we were bringing Runway of Dreams to Los Angeles,” said Mindy Scheier, Founder and CEO of Runway of Dreams Foundation and Gamut Management. “As with all of our events, I hope this show shines a light on this underserved population, calls for critical change in the fashion industry, and reveals that inclusivity doesn’t stop at size or shape. Everyone deserves the right to look good and feel good about themselves, and consumers deserve that access.


Influencer Grace Strobel walks the runway for the Runway Of Dreams Foundation Fashion Show on September 9, 2021 in New York City.

CREDIT: Monica Schipper of Getty Images

The show will feature over 60 models with varying disabilities and differences, ethnicities and backgrounds to showcase mainstream adaptive clothing and footwear options and highlight the necessary changes needed in the fashion industry. .

Runway of Dreams was founded in 2014 by Scheier – a fashion designer and mother of a disabled child – who envisioned a world where disability-friendly clothing would be common.

Scheier launched its charity shows with Zappos Adaptive as its main sponsor in 2019. The online shoe retailer is among the industry pioneers in creating footwear for people with disabilities. Zappos’ adaptive shopping platform launched in April 2017 – three years after a customer, in a phone call with an employee, asked if she could trade in a pair of shoes for her granddaughter. son, who was autistic and needed help tying shoelaces on his own. .

Since then, the retailer has launched the Single and Different Size Shoes program – through which customers can purchase a single shoe or two shoes of different sizes and widths to create a pair – as well as Ugg Universal, a collection in partnership with the shoemaker. sheepskin that offers functional iterations of two iconic styles: the Classic Short and the Neumel.

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Luxury fashion brand Balenciaga to open a Tysons Galleria store

Tysons shoppers will soon be able to dress like Justin Bieber — provided they have an extra $1,000 to spend on a pair of sneakers.

Luxury fashion house Balenciaga will open a boutique at Tysons Galleria tomorrow (Thursday), its first in Virginia and the DC area, a spokesperson confirmed to Tysons Reporter.

The store measures 133 square meters (or 1,431 square feet) and will sell the brand’s ready-to-wear clothing as well as bags, shoes, eyewear and accessories.

A press release highlights the store’s “intentionally eroded concrete facade” and “deconstructed” architecture, which Balenciaga says make it a more environmentally friendly design.

“The resulting structures inherently require less virgin material,” the press release reads. “In line with Balenciaga policies, new stores and renovations aim to achieve the highest standards of sustainable practices.”

Balenciaga was founded by Spanish designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, who opened the house’s first official boutique in Paris, France, in 1937. His work was notable for its clean lines and full silhouettes, serving as inspiration for the film “Phantom Thread” by Paul Thomas Anderson.

The company now operates more than 100 stores worldwide, including 30 in the United States.

Balenciaga joins New Zealand clothing store Rodd & Gunn, which now appears to be open next to Kate Spade, and restaurant Empanadas De Mendoza as the latest additions to Tysons Galleria.

The mall also plans to add furniture store CB2, a CinéBistro movie theater, Crate & Barrel, a Yard House sports bar, and more. Many newcomers will occupy the space of the old Macy’s, which has been remodeled and divided into smaller units.

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Fashion style

Cleveland designer William Frederick returns to New York Fashion Week for second year










William McNicol, the creative mind behind local clothing company William Frederick, has made a low-key return to New York to show off a Spring 2022 collection.

In a sea of ​​hyper-experimental clothing, rapidly changing trends and artistic silhouettes, sometimes the simplest designs make the biggest statement.

That’s exactly what Clevelander William McNicol aims to do consistently and thoroughly through his designs, whether showcased in his hometown of Rust Belt or in the country’s fashion capital: New York. McNicol, who was named one of Cleveland Magazine‘s Most Interesting People of 2022, captured the attention of New York Fashion Week for the second year in a row with its workwear-inspired designs and garments focused on wearability and ease. After showing his creations for the first time last September, the designer showed a collection of pieces again for New York Fashion Week on February 11.

Guillaume Frederic 2022

Asked about the themes of the collection, McNicol’s response is very much like the clothes he makes: unforced and organic.

“After we debuted, we decided not to focus on any theme or story for future collections, but to let the clothes speak for themselves,” says McNicol, who launched various concept lines inspired by the movies. French new wave and industrial design in the past. “In today’s fashion landscape, and especially during New York Fashion Week, there is an overwhelming amount of design work driven by false intellectual themes, which other designers have used as a crutch to distract from the lack of quality that exists in their product.”

Guillaume Frederic 2022

During the 90-minute presentation, the designer showcased 16 looks and 35 pieces specially crafted for New York Fashion Week Men’s Day, a biannual event that focuses on showcasing up-and-coming designers and apparel. for contemporary men. Quality tailoring, simple styling and quality materials – all of which are consistent with McNicol’s design philosophy – were at the forefront of this collection.

“It feels less like an event and more like a natural continuation of what we’ve been moving towards over the past three years,” McNicol says. “The moment is more of a necessity than a celebration.”

Guillaume Frederic 2022

The no-name collection, which was shown alongside other top menswear designers such as A. Potts, Stan and others, included a series of wearable silhouettes that had echoes of classic menswear, asexual shapes and utilitarian style clothing. These elements, although classic, appeared in William Frederick’s collection rebuilt and styled for more casual attire through pieces such as a black and white check suit waistcoat over a white t-shirt, a draped beige scarf on a dark green overcoat and a blue suit shirt and denim pants.

Guillaume Frederic 2022

The other notable detail was the fabrics – which McNicol selects and curates almost religiously based on comfort, texture and sustainable sourcing. The parade of neutral-colored fabrics included everything from cotton corduroy, hemp canvas, Japanese denim, dead wool and flannel and more. While the materials speak volumes, so does McNicol’s ongoing commitment to simple fashion that prioritizes comfort and quality for all.

“From a communicative perspective, the goal is to promote an ambitious identity for Clevelanders,” McNicol explains. “The overall pursuit of a more ambitious version of Cleveland’s design, tastes, interests, and sensibilities.”

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The MN brand unveils its first runway collection at New York Fashion Week

Designer Andre Sackman says Love Disorder is about loving your disorders and learning to live with them.

NEW YORK CITY, NY – Minnesota fashion designer Andre Sackman says his brand, Love Disorder, is about “loving your troubles and learning to live with them” and, obviously, some big names in the industry fashion designers love the message behind the brand.

First, about eight months ago, the Mall of America welcomed Love Disorder to its new Community Commons space intended to help minority-owned businesses impacted by the pandemic and civil unrest.

“It’s about mental health and awareness,” Sackman said of his label. “All the pieces I make are meant to carry on the conversation. »

Not even a year later, Sackman had more good news. This time it was an invitation to participate in New York Fashion Week.

“They contacted me,” Sackman said. “Emailed me and said, ‘We love your brand and we love everything you do.'”

At Break Free NYFW Fashion Show, the models wore eight exclusive pieces designed by Sackman. He describes the collection as avant-garde and medical. During the design and production process, he had to overcome a challenge, just like his brand message.

“I actually had some very difficult personal issues with my family, so I had a deadline to build my collection,” he said on Zoom Tuesday while waiting for a return flight from JFK to MSP. “It was literally eight days but it went very well and a lot of people enjoyed it and I’m happy with the result.”

love disorder currently offers exclusive Love Disorder Runway 2022 hoodies at its Mall of America store.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=videoseries

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French fashion

Oscar Massin relaunch breathes new life into jewelry brand Heritage

The Old World and the New World meet at the tip of Manhattan, host to ferry terminals hosted by Lady Liberty. For this reason, LuxImpact chose this place to start the revival of the historic French brand Oscar Massin. The luxury jewelry investment firm – comprised of jewelry director Frédéric de Narp, creative force Sandrine de Laage and jewelry director and investor Caroline de Fontenay – chose the Battery Maritime building at Casa Cipriani , designed by the Beaux-Arts, for its resemblance to landmarks like the Eiffel Tower, which stands in the very city where Massin’s innovative eponymous jewelry brand got its start in 1867. After years of inactivity for Massin (the business ceased when the creator died in 1913 as he left no heirs), LuxImpact reinvents the founder’s creations to match today’s modern lifestyle and technology.

For years, Massin has been relegated to the annals of history via museums, historians, public records offices and Henri Vever’s jewelry bible., a set of three volumes relating to French jewellery, often appearing without a 19th century mark. Looking for such a niche heritage brand, de Narp discovered Massin by browsing the original catalogs and Vever’s book.

“Oscar caught our attention because his work focused on diamonds, the different treatments, shapes, cuts and settings. He was primarily interested in reinventing the setting; he was a true innovator when it came to diamonds,” says from Narp to TZR.

“He used parameters that no one had thought of at the time. Even though he invented and recorded these techniques, he shared them with other jewelers allowing the industry to flourish. spirit of Oscar,” adds de Laage, noting that the phantom, stem, filigree, and lace settings are all credited to Massin.

Courtesy of Oscar Massin

Before launching his own brand, Massin worked for major jewelry houses of the 1850s, including Lemonnier, Viette, Rouvenat and Fester. His own brand was launched in 1863 while working for Boucheron, Mellerio, etc. His international notoriety took off when he exhibited at the 1867 World’s Fair in Paris, where he received a gold medal, his first of many accolades and accolades.

During his career, the designer made tiaras for such notables as Queen Isabella of Spain, the Pasha of Egypt, and Princess Louise of Wales when she married the Earl of Fife. (A belt created for Nizam of Hyderabad using the patented filigree setting is another key example of Massin’s work.)

While tiaras for royalty may have been Massin’s forte, today’s jewelry aficionados are looking for an easier-to-wear look and, more importantly, jewelry that lasts. Oscar Massin’s new offerings tinker with the settings invented by the original founder, incorporating them beyond function as design. Intended for everyday use, the jewelry introduction includes a list of 50 pieces, made up of three groups: filigree, lace and pearl styles.

The delicate pieces are crafted from 100% recycled gold and adorned with lab-grown diamonds. “Along with discovering his work, we had a vision to embrace technology and explore those diamonds that even gemologists can’t tell the difference,” Narp notes.

The diamonds, which come transparently from WD Lab Grown Diamonds, a leading US supplier of high-quality lab-grown diamonds (under its Latitude spin-off brand) achieves the highest level of E and F grading for natural diamonds. “It’s a diamond physically, chemically and visually. It’s the real thing, a crystallized carbon diamond,” says de Laage.

Latitude works with the Climate & Clean Air Coalition to offset its carbon impact. With an emphasis on transparency, the supplier openly lists the ways its gemstones are superior and eco-friendly on its website, including how they are the first to be rated by a third party for sustainability and achieve the fifth C of climate neutrality. (This sustainability factor is actually what caught the attention of Kate Hudson and celebrity stylist and entrepreneur Rachel Zoe. In addition to becoming brand ambassadors, the two women have also invested in the new venture.)

And while the full extent of Massin’s influence on the jewelry world is never fully documented, his legacy has been resurrected by modern visionaries who hope to follow in his footsteps by marrying art and innovation. The new Oscar Massin launches February 15 exclusively on OscarMassin.com, with future retail partners to come. Prices range from $3,500 to $12,900.

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Imitation of Christ Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Since its inception two decades ago, Imitation of Christ, a collaborative platform for fashion, art and environmental responsibility, has often been ahead of the industry. Too soon, in fact, to get credit for disruptions like upcycling (in the year 2000) and shows as performances (the brand followed up its funeral show with a red carpet arrival presentation for the fall 2001). This season finds Tara Subkoff exactly on time as she showcases a fall collection of digital apparel, created with Adam Teninbaum, Principal VFX and Animation Director at AST.NYC that only exists in the Metaverse. (It’s possible that some of these Web 3 renders will be made into clothing at a later date.)

Because so much of what IOC has done is tinkering and doing, from picking and splicing vintage to screen printing, this leap in technology seems particularly dramatic; but at the same time, it fits perfectly with Subkoff’s relentless curiosity and fascination with what’s next and what fashion can be and do.

When Subkoff relaunched IOC in 2020, she did so, she said on a call, “as a collaboration platform,” and she worked with a rotating cast of young creative directors. , encouraging and mentoring their talents. The attractions of the metaverse for Subkoff are many and include its reach and inclusiveness. “What’s really fun about it is that you can really define physics, gravity and play in different areas,” she said. “You don’t have to worry about the fit so much; anyone can wear it—your avatar can wear it, [or] someone else, and I think that’s kind of fun too. In addition, the carbon footprint of their production is limited. Subkoff is also passionate about the ability to be cause-driven in the Metaverse. For the fall, she collaborated with photojournalist Lynsey Addario, whose images relating to climate change and the California wildfires are projected onto Subkoff’s creations. Surprisingly for a vintage hunter, Subkoff has had a passion for science fiction since childhood. Her father ran an antique store across from the Forbidden Planet comic book store, where she escaped to other worlds. She seemed to have resurfaced in this collection, which has a futuristic aesthetic, and includes what look like liquid metal hooded dresses with various graphics, one in the signature IOC “font”. Other than that small touch, most designs in this collection bear little resemblance to the brand’s earlier work, although some volumes seem to nod to Valentino’s collaboration with Moncler. Subkoff took a go-for-it approach to these designs – essentially technological versions of paper dolls – taking advantage of the endless possibilities of the medium.

This IOC collection will be part of Decentraland Fashion Week in March, which is perhaps a better fit than on the New York calendar, as they require different review criteria. While this project is in line with the brand’s ethos, the aesthetic is a world apart from most of what’s come before. Subkoff has always made us confront the past with the present. She challenged fashion’s fascination with the new and the multiple, producing one-of-a-kind pieces presented via multimedia shows, whether it was a show on an escalator or concurrent events in New York and Los Angeles. IOC was inimitable in the way Subkoff was able to use clothing as vehicles for concepts. As progressive as this project is in some ways, in others it seems to be stuck in neutral, still accessible and at the same time out of reach.

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Fashion style

Street Style NYFW Fall-Winter 2022

Tyler Joe

No matter how dazzling the looks to the track might be, we’re partial to what happens off the catwalk. Thanks to SHE’s resident photographer Tyler Joe, we got a glimpse of what style looks like on the streets of New York City during fashion week. From editors to influencers to celebrities, including Katie Holmes spotted outside Khaite, fashion week goers brought out the best in their closets. It features vintage pieces, independent designers, Gucci x North Face, and even a shearling coat from Prada’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection, a piece that remains a fashion collector’s holy grail. In short, NYFW street style is a masterclass in curating a wardrobe of high and low, old and new.

Check out the best of the best below and check back as Tyler continues to hit the streets throughout fashion month.

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French fashion

Who are Gabriella Papadakis and Guillaume Cizeron, the favorites in ice dancing?

French partners Gabriella Papadakis and Guillaume Cizeron won the rhythm dance portion of the Olympic competition in their ethereal style with a world record 90.83 points. This gave them a nearly two-point advantage over their Russian rivals Victoria Sinitsina and Nikita Katsalapov, which could be seen as a considerable advantage in an event where historically the standings often do not change.

Papadakis and Cizeron are the 2018 Olympic silver medalists and four-time world champions. They are chasing a gold medal that eluded them by less than a point losing to Canada’s Tessa Virtue and Scott Moir at the 2018 Olympics in Pyeongchang, South Korea. At these Games, Papadakis experienced a wardrobe malfunction during the Short or Rhythm Dance and her left breast was briefly exposed. Papadakis called it his “worst nightmare,” and it seemed to leave the couple somewhat unnerved. The French won the free dance in their Olympic debut but couldn’t make up the deficit in the short skate and lost the gold medal by the slimmest of margins, 206.07 points to 205.28.

Since 2018, Papadakis and Cizeron have lost just one competition – to Sinitsa and Katsalapov – at the 2020 European Championships. The French skipped the 2021 World Championships and the 2022 European Championships, citing the coronavirus pandemic and a focus on the Olympics.

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Blossom Chukwujekwu’s ex-wife Maureen Esisi reopens fashion house





maureen esisi
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Feb. 13 (THEWILL) – Maureen Esisi, the ex-wife of Nollywood actor Blossom Chukwujekwu, has relaunched her fashion business, House of Maureen Esisi. The beautiful lady quit the business after her controversial split and divorce from her husband a few years ago. Heartbroken over the breakdown of her marriage, Maureen struggled to find what she loved most and focused on her healing process as she addressed the controversies surrounding her breakup. marriage. She’s also taken time off to rediscover herself while coping with her brand influencer and skincare business. The delighted lady opened her office to clients for the first time in two years about a week ago.

In August 2019, social networks were in turmoil following the announcement of the breakup of Blossom and Maureen Esisi. Blossom had left his marital home and told his in-laws that he was no longer interested in marriage. Reacting to the breakup, Maureen revealed that the actor was not interested in having children. Her constant pleas for her former husband to adopt children if they weren’t going to have their own also fell on deaf ears.

The brand influencer had corrected the idea that the collapse of her marriage was due to domestic violence and infidelity on the part of her ex-husband.






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Fashion style

Lata Mangeshkar: The style that will never fade | fashion trends

An air of royalty and understated elegance that never failed to charm – Lata Mangeshkar’s style was classic and effortless. India’s Nightingale charmed the audience in elegantly draped crisp white cotton sarees, in soft shades of white, which were worn with modest long-sleeved blouses. Draped in a simple style with a pallu over her shoulders, a distinctive round bindi, two assertive braids and a warm smile, she had a unique way of holding herself. Like her soft, pure voice that brought countless songs to life in over 32 languages, Mangeshkar’s style, consisting mostly of white sarees, symbolized purity.

The two braids that Mangeshkar wore as a young girl came to define her over the next seven decades in the music industry and represented her childlike innocence. Another thing that remained an important part of her growing years and her wardrobe was her love for white, ivory, cream and pastel sarees. While talking about not wearing many colorful sarees, Mangeshkar said in an interview, “The one time I wore a colorful saree to work, the choir girls laughed so hard that I swore never again. touch the color.”

Known for her impeccable taste, she had a fondness for Indian textiles that she had instilled in her youth. Mangeshkar loved wearing Kota white cotton sarees with multicolored embroidered threads. Ahilaya was the first company to supply her with sarees. Nagma Ansari, one of the directors, Ahilaya remembers how her late father used to visit late actor Dilip Kumar’s house. During one of these meetings he met Mangeshkar and from there began a lifelong bond. “He used to reminisce about his kind and humble nature. She was the nicest, he always said,” Ansari says.

Passionate about diamonds, she once said, “With my first earnings, I bought gold jewelry for my mother, and for myself, I received a specially designed diamond and ruby ​​ring with ‘LM’. above. I still have this ring. It is one of my most prized possessions. They say she paid 700 for her in 1947. After that, she started getting interested in diamonds.

Speaking about her personal style she’s adopted over the years, designer Nachiket Barve says, “It was unique, identifiable and deeply personal. The exquisite collection of hand-woven white sarees, the flawless diamond jewelry; she has always been classy.

Designer Ritu Beri believes her style reflects the purity of her thought process. After meeting her at an event, Beri told her how honored she was to receive an award with her. She says, “To my surprise, she said, ‘Me too’.”

For designer Ritu Kumar, Lata ji had an evergreen style. “There was no confusion, her fashion sensibility never changed. She knew she didn’t have to change. The conviction and confidence in her own talent was so defined that she never never had to change anything,” Kumar says.

An avowed fan of Mangeshkar, singer Kavita Krishnamurti, says, “She always wore those very elegant white sarees and had a great interest in diamonds; she was even good at designing them. Krishnamurti goes on to reveal that she was once so enamored with the singer’s personality that she forgot her lines! “To my surprise, she turned around and gave me a mischievous smile. It was Lata ji for me. Lata ji will be remembered for her beauty, grace and personality, as much as she will live on in the minds of her admirers through her music.

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Fashion designer

Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy talk fashion off and on the runway – WWD

Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the sisters behind Rodarte, took center stage Friday night during a chat with actress Maude Apatow as part of NYFW: The Talks at Spring Studios.

The discussion focused on how they started the brand, the designers’ inspiration, and their multiple art projects, such as designing costumes for “Black Swan” and “Sing 2.”

The California-born sisters both attended the University of California, Berkeley, where Kate studied art history and Laura majored in English literature. Together they founded Rodarte (their mother’s maiden name) in 2005.

“It’s been 17 years since it became one of America’s most influential fashion brands,” said Apatow, who appears on the HBO drama series “Euphoria,” and is the 24-year-old daughter of Judd Apatow and Leslie. Mann.

Laura Mulleavy said she went to see “The Art of Rodarte,” Spring’s immersive experience showcasing their work for track and screen, which they curated themselves, and said that when you see it all together as a designer, “it’s really nice to see how things bleed into each other.

“It’s very powerful to see it that way. It’s really cool, so go check it out. she told the crowded audience.

After graduating from college, they designed ballet costumes for their friend’s performance piece. “I had always thought of being a designer as a child, but wasn’t pursuing it in college, and I think we were like, ‘I think we really want to do this,'” said Kate, whose the birthday was Friday night.They had artistic skills but had no idea how the industry worked.

“Laura got a job as a waitress, and we had a conversation about how I wouldn’t get a job as a waitress,” said Kate, who said she probably wouldn’t be hired or tipped. . They decided they wanted to put together a collection and they would figure out how to do it. Kate had a record collection which they sold to raise money to buy fabrics.

“We built our first collection, which had 10 pieces. We had never been to New York. A friend of ours lived here, and she said, ‘come stay with me.’ They flew to New York and made handmade paper dolls, and you put the clothes on, and there was a wardrobe. They sent them and received no response.

About four days into their journey here, they thought it might have been a mistake to do so. “Someone at Women’s Wear Daily got the dolls, and I got a phone call and they told me to come down and we’ll see each other. Bridget Foley, Bobbi Queen and Nan D’Souza saw the collection and I just remember they were looking at all the clothes They said they wanted to ask questions and take pictures of the clothes A day later they called us and told us to come down to the nearest newsstand, and they put us on the cover! And it was the day before New York Fashion Week,” Kate said.

Apatow said many of Rodarte’s collections were inspired by redwoods and Santa Cruz and asked how they manage to design from the heart and design for art.

“There’s something very personal to us that’s kind of going to guide the rest of our careers,” Laura said. She said you listen to your instincts as a designer. “We love textiles, we love texture and we love organic symmetry and experimentation. It’s something that Kate and I share,” she said. Growing up with Kate, they saw the same things and went to the same college.” I think the shared dialogue comes out of the work,” Laura said.

As they grew up, their style evolved, but some styles stand out. “I love the pieces that I remember saying, ‘I’m never doing that again,'” Kate said. “It’s the parts that are so difficult to make.”

They once designed a mermaid dress that had real sand in the tulle. She said she remembered thinking that because of this technique they were never going to get into Bergdorf Goodman, but they did. She said the pieces where you take more risks, where sometimes you do something that pushes you further and doesn’t quite land the way you want it to, and that can be daunting, those are the collections we’re talking about .

Laura Mulleavy, Kate Mulleavy and Maude Apatow.
Getty Images for IMG Fashion

The conversation turned to the costumes the Rodarte sisters designed for the movie “Black Swan.” Their friend Natalie Portman, who starred in the film, introduced them to the director, Darren Aronofsky. They were asked how this was different from designing a fashion collection.

“‘Black Swan’ happened so early in our careers, in 2009. It was a truly magical experience,” Kate said. “We have the costume archives and are bringing them out for museum exhibits [and hadn’t looked at the film in years] but I said, ‘I’m going to watch it. It was just like something out of the body. That’s what I love about working in the movies,” Kate said. She said it had this feeling of transformation, where all the elements like production, actors, costume design and directors came together.

“It’s one of the most special things we’ve ever worked on,” Kate said.

Laura added “In fashion you’re kind of on your own island, but in film you bring someone’s vision to life and you support someone’s performance.”

“It’s an interesting ability to be part of something and not take the lead, it’s kind of a powerful experience and it’s really special, and you can say, ‘that’s what I’m contributing that actually improves something.’ Costume designers need to get more credit. They’re one of the hardest working groups of people on set. Pay equity is really important. It’s a very important part of the industry, and so is fashion. said Laura.

When asked what brought them from ‘Black Swan’ to directing their own film, ‘Woodshock’, Laura replied, “I was on the set of ‘Black Swan’ and they were shooting the ballet, and I I said, ‘I want to do this. It was time. I went home and I called Kate and I said, ‘I think we should realize’, and she said, ‘I know .”

As noted, as part of “The Art of Rodarte” there is an immersive experience conceptualized and produced by IMG Focus and powered by Yahoo technology. It closely presents the work of Rodarte. A preview and industry reception was held on February 11 and the exhibition, in partnership with IMG and Afterpay, is open to the public until Tuesday with free access with hourly ticket on the ground floor by Spring Studios.

FOR MORE STORIES:

EXCLUSIVE LOOK: Rodarte’s “Black Swan” projection technology at NYFW

IMG Reveals NYFW Lineup: February Season of Shows

Rodarte RTW Spring 2022

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French fashion

How I Created a Diversity-Focused Fashion Brand: Gen Z Founder

  • Yassine Guelimi is an entrepreneur who wants to raise awareness of women wearing the hijab.
  • Through its Hallyulimi brand, Guelimi honors its heritage and favors diversity.
  • He advises future young entrepreneurs to have a clear message, regardless of the type of business.

French law student and entrepreneur Yassine Guelimi believes there needs to be a much better representation of women wearing the hijab – and that her progressive, fashion-forward approach can bridge the gap.

Guelimi founded Hallyulimi in 2020 and has been the Creative Director ever since. The brand wants to stand out with its Korean-inspired outfits. And he also places women wearing the hijab at the forefront of his mission.

Guelimi, however, said he never originally intended to make it his mission to represent women wearing the hijab. It was always normal for him growing up to see his mother wearing it. He said: “Women who wear the hijab are so inspiring – despite all the obstacles they face, they never give up.”

The 22-year-old pointed to the current climate surrounding wearing the hijab in France, where he lives.

In January, the French Senate voted in favor of banning wearing the hijab in sports competitions, and last year he voted in favor of President Emmanuel Macron’s controversial proposal separatism bill, which prohibits Muslim women under the age of 18 from wearing the hijab in public. the The EU also voted last year for a bill allowing companies to ban employees from wearing religious headscarves in order to maintain “neutrality”.

“There is a cohesion behind all my campaigns, and a real desire to put diversity first,” said Guelimi. “I want my brand to represent inclusivity, but more importantly, I want the brand to be a true representation of youth.”

He added: “Enough with people trying to erase from the mainstream how diverse we are. In particular, French society is made up of all kinds of religions, and I’m more advocating for the hijab because of the political climate. current – it’s catastrophic.”

France’s Minister for Gender Equality declined Insider’s request for comment.

A study of Pew Research Center found that Gen Zers are more racially and ethnically diverse than any previous generation and that major social and political issues, just like Millennials, Gen Zers are progressive and pro-government and see increasing racial and ethnic diversity as a good thing.

Four Hallyulimi models smiling during a campaign for the brand's new collection.

Diversity is a key objective for the entrepreneur.

Hallyulimi


Guelimi told Insider that anyone who appears in the brand’s new campaigns isn’t there to highlight an ethnic difference, and that’s not even a “difference to me – whether you’re white, black, mixed-race, Asian… But all I want is true representation of all women from all walks of life.”

Here’s what he would advise any young entrepreneur looking to build a successful, heritage-driven brand.

Have a clear message

Guelimi launched her fashion brand taking inspiration from Korean loose cuts and her Algerian heritage.

One of his motives is to normalize women wearing the hijab, “even though it bothers me to use the word normalize because they are normal.” To his surprise and pride, these women adopted the brand. He said: “I’m proud they’ve embraced my brand because women who wear what’s called ‘modest fashion’ tend to be very demanding – the item of clothing needs to be able to fit their way of being. dress.”

In the process of building the brand’s marketing, he meets Amelia Gueye, a French Muslim model who has become his muse. “She represents the woman I want to please – free, modern and strong.”

A post shared by Amélia Gueye ★ (@ameliaguey)

Find a place in the market — or your wardrobe

Guelimi is proud to contribute to a growing trend for loose and oversized clothing in Western countries; he began to consider the idea of ​​making such clothes when he could not find in stores what he himself wanted to wear.

“I just wanted good quality clothes that looked simple and effortless.”

He added that the simplicity of the clothes is very important and the response has been amazing, he says. “People want simplicity, and this brand is very niche – the demand was there, I just executed it.”

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Fashion brand

Ai Toronto Seoul Founders Turn Interest in Fashion Into a Family Business

For the founders of Canadian accessories brand Ai Toronto Seoul, fashion is a family affair.

Content of the article

For the founders of Canadian accessories brand Ai Toronto Seoul, fashion is a family affair.

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“During our childhood, I remember that every month my mother always had the latest fashion magazines imported from Korea, but also the latest Vogue and Chatelaine,” said co-founder Hannah Kim. “One of my fondest childhood memories was every weekend when my grandmother, my mother, my second sister and I sat around the TV for our weekly episode of Fashion Television with Jeanne Beker.”

That initial interest Kim, her sisters Joanna Lee and Rebekah Ma, and their mother Hun Young Lee expanded to create vegan leather handbags and accessories for their line. We caught up with Kim to find out more.

Q. What makes Ai Toronto Seoul unique?

A. We are a family business and founded by women. And fashion has always had a big influence on our lives. Our parents immigrated to Canada from Seoul in the late 70s. Particularly for our mother, I believe fashion was a way for her to connect her expertise and fine art studies in Seoul as a way to adapt to Canadian culture.

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Q. Who is the target customer?

A. Our mother taught us that fashion alludes to the way things are done and although fashion can be defined as the style of dress or the dominant behavior at any given time, it doesn’t have to be either. . Our overall style would be described as a mix between modern and classic. We like to see the different trends, but we create pieces that are timeless and practical, but also fun to style. All four of us represent a different generation. Our mother is in her sixties, I am in her forties, Rebekah is in her thirties and Jo is in her twenties. It is important that we all like the bag and can style it, regardless of age.

Q. What can you share about where the accessories are designed and made?

A. The idea always starts with us. From a conversation with my sisters to a discussion with our mother. Our mother will draw – she studied fine art – and we will email it to my sister in Seoul, South Korea. My sister in Seoul will work with our designer and my sister will then source the materials for a sample. Once a sample is made, she will test it and send it to Toronto for us to test. If there are any components that need to be adjusted, they will be made and my sister will test the final sample. We then produce a small batch and in a few months, if we see there is a demand, we will produce more. Otherwise, we remove it. We also take feedback from our customers and listen to what they want to see.

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The Ai Toronto Seoul Mini Croc handbag is made from vegan leather, which does not require a toxic tanning process, and is PETA approved.  It retails for $165.
The Ai Toronto Seoul Mini Croc handbag is made from vegan leather, which does not require a toxic tanning process, and is PETA approved. It retails for $165. Photo by Ai Toronto Seoul /PNG

Q. And what more can you share about the sustainability aspect of the brand story?

A. Growing up in Canada, we were always taught about sustainability and environmental awareness. Especially growing up with sisters, we always wore each other’s clothes and our mom loved vintage shopping. Creating a vegan brand was a natural decision for us, as being eco-friendly and eco-friendly has always been an important part of our lives.

((START OPTIONAL TRIM))

Especially considering that Korea was one of the first places to create vegan leather before it became a growing trend. Ai aims to create sustainable luxury. All of our products are PETA approved and our vegan PU (polyurethane) leather is cruelty-free and does not harm animals. It also doesn’t need to be tanned, which is great because tanning real leather creates pollution from the chemicals used to create it.

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Q. Is there a “hero” design in the collection? If so, which one and what makes it so popular?

A. The playpen was definitely our hero design when we first launched it. But when the pandemic hit, people’s needs changed. People had to have their hands free. The new standard calls for bags to be more accommodating to fit the essentials but with comfort. At Ai, we wanted to revolutionize the hands-free bag towards a more fashionable piece. Our flagship piece has therefore moved to the ESSE and the Mini Croc.

((END OF OPTIONAL TRIM))

Q. What is the price range of your creations?

A. From $55 to $225.

Q. Where can people view them?

A. Online at ai-co.ca but we are also available on Indigo.ca, Hudson Bay online and Shopping Channel! You can also find us in person at our favorite store, Permission, in Toronto.

[email protected]

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Fashion style

Kim Kardashian used to promote ‘African hairstyle’ in Brussels

An image of Kim Kardashian has been used to promote a salon offering ‘African hairstyles’ in Brussels after the star was accused of ‘black fishing’ during her Vogue cover shoot this week.

The reality TV star faced huge backlash after posing for the magazine’s March 2022 issue, with social media users claiming she was appropriating traditional African hairstyles.

Fashion influencer Diet Prada, who pointed out the star modeled traditional hairstyles while filming Vogue this week, has now shared a photo of the ad taken on the street in Brabant.

The image, used without the star’s prior permission, shows Kim, 41, wearing Fulani braids – a style popular with the Fulani, one of the largest ethnic groups in the Sahel and East Africa Where is.

An image of Kim Kardashian has been used to promote a salon offering ‘African hairstyles’ in Brussels after the star was accused of ‘black fishing’ during her Vogue cover shoot this week

The image, used without the star's prior permission, shows Kim, 41, wearing Fulani braids as she attended the 2018 MTV Movie And TV Awards

The image, used without the star’s prior permission, shows Kim, 41, wearing Fulani braids as she attended the 2018 MTV Movie And TV Awards

The post racked up thousands of likes and users were quick to point out that while the star had nothing to do with the ad, it was contributing to the problem of “bleached” black culture.

“That’s why people are against cultural appropriation. The bleaching is real,” one wrote.

‘The absolute craziness of this town is beyond me. Brussels really disagrees,” said another furious user.

TV and radio presenter Clara Amfo also weighed in, commenting simply “Jesus” on the post.

Earlier this week, the Keeping Up With The Kardashians star was accused of blackfishing on her Vogue shoot, where she modeled African hairstyles and wore outfits similar to those worn by black icons.

Earlier this week, the Keeping Up With The Kardashians star was accused of blackfishing on her Vogue shoot, where she modeled African hairstyles and wore outfits similar to those worn by black icons.

Earlier this week, the Keeping Up With The Kardashians star was accused of blackfishing in her Vogue shoot, where she modeled African hairstyles and wore outfits similar to those worn by black icons.

Fashion watchdog Diet Prada also pointed out in a separate Instagram post loved by model Naomi Campbell that the shoot was released in the middle of Black History Month.

“This is incredibly disrespectful. @voguemagazine this is clearly blackfishing. Kim is not a black woman. stop trying to make her happen. thank goodness not followed kim kardashian and her wannabes. no one should buy this cover of magazine. some respect!” wrote one Twitter user.

Another said: “Kim Kardashian is beautiful and rich, but I’m so over her blackfishing and these fashion magazines that take advantage of it…André Leon Talley should have had this month’s Vogue cover .”

“You are seriously not seeing this as black fishing. She’s not playing with styles, she’s passionate about culture. It’s not the lighting, she’s trying to pass herself off as a black girl,” wrote a third.

The reality star also faced backlash in January 2018, when she posted photos with beaded cornrows, which she called

The reality star also faced backlash in January 2018, when she posted photos with beaded cornrows, which she called “Bo Derek braids.”

Kardashian (pictured in 2018) styled her beaded cornrows

She was referencing the look of white actress Bo Derek in the 1979 comedy 10

Kardashian (left in 2018) called her beaded cornrows ‘Bo Derek braids’ in reference to the white actress’ look in 1979’s Comedy 10 (right)

The photograph used to promote the show in Brussels was taken in 2018 during an appearance at the MTV Movie and TV Awards and faced backlash for appropriating black culture at the time.

Shortly after the event, the star defended her right to wear the style, telling Bustle magazine that her mixed-race daughter North wanted them to have a hairstyle to match.

“I actually did this look because North said she wanted braids and asked me if I wanted to do them with her,” Kim said. “So we braided her hair, then we braided my hair.”

She also faced backlash in January 2018, when she posted photos with beaded cornrows, which she called “Bo Derek braids” in reference to white actress Bo Derek’s look in the comedy 10 from 1979.

Kim also addressed claims that she appropriates black culture in a conversation with iD Magazine last year, insisting that she would “never do anything to appropriate a culture” in her style. .

Earlier this week, the star's Vogue shoot was criticized by Twitter users who said the images were

Earlier this week, the star’s Vogue shoot was criticized by Twitter users who said the images were “disrespectful” and called Kardashian a “culture vulture”.

“Honestly, most of the time it comes from my daughter asking us to do matching hair,” the reality TV icon – who is mother to daughters North, eight, Chicago, three, and daughters sons Saint, six, and Psalm, two, with ex-husband Kanye West, 44.

“I had these conversations with her like, ‘Hey, maybe this hairstyle would be better for you and not for me,'” she said.

“But I also want her to feel like I can do a hairdo with her and not make it a big deal either if it’s something she really asks for and really wants.”

Kim highlighted her own cultural background, noting that “there is also a history of hair braiding in Armenia, and people forget that I am Armenian too.”

In conversation with the publication, Kardashian said she had “definitely learned over time and … tried to pass that culture of learning on to [her] the children too.

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Fashion designer

Fashion Festival: Let’s talk about size in fashion

Watch our panel of incredible and opinionated five wahine talk about the state of size inclusivity in Aotearoa, hosted by “fat babe” and multidisciplinary artist Tanya Barlow.

With the political and societal shifts and movements that have taken place across the world in recent years, fashion is one of many industries that have been pushed by consumers to become more ‘inclusive’ – from the representation of who figures in the campaigns to the diversity of those working behind the scenes and the supply of clothing actually available to shop and buy.

These conversations rightly range from the need for greater inclusion in terms of gender, identity, ethnicity, age, ability and more – a push for an industry that for years has helped to perpetuate a Euro-centric beauty standard that is white, thin and cis.

Multidisciplinary artist Tanya Barlow hosts a panel discussion on the state of waist inclusion.  *Disposable Fashion Festival*

Things

Multidisciplinary artist Tanya Barlow hosts a panel discussion on the state of waist inclusion. *Disposable Fashion Festival*

Things are changing, and the key to that change is increased korero around these sometimes uncomfortable topics – and one of them is the topic of size, and the place of size and release inclusivity fats in the fashion space.

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* Why has #BodyPositivity failed to make us body positive?

In the New Zealand fashion industry, some figureheads are leading these conversations and encouraging others – from fashion designers to stylists to the media – to look at their own internalized fatphobia.

These are conversations we had honored to welcome on Ensembleand we wanted to continue as part of the Fashion Festival with a panel discussion featuring five incredible and opinionated wāhine.

The conversation was led by “fat babe” and multi-disciplinary artist Tanya Barlow, who was joined by plus-size designer and label founder Sarah-Jane Duff lost and misplacedQiane Matata-Sipu, founder of NUKU and social activist, Jess Molina, writer, influencer and activist, and Kaarina Parker, model and writer.

Their conversation was wide-ranging, addressing the state of size inclusivity today and whether it has gotten better and better, whether brands that use terms like “for everyone” and ” inclusive size”, while offering limited extended sizes simply cash in, and whether consumers should pressure brands to extend sizes or focus on supporting existing inclusive brands.

Duff, who was a plus size fashion designer for 15 years, offered a unique perspective. “I meet these women and I see these women and I try to make clothes that actually match their bodies, rather than fashion-matching them,” she said.

Through her wardrobe, Jess Molina chooses to challenge preconceived notions of inherent style.

Lawrence Smith / Stuff

Through her wardrobe, Jess Molina chooses to challenge preconceived notions of inherent style.

Molina, who is widely respected in the local industry for her perspective on the lack of visibility of fat bodies in fashion, spoke about the possible emptiness of the buzzword “inclusiveness” and her own personal experiences.

“To feel like I have to fight and really be heard for brands to be like, ‘oh, actually, we’re going to meet your needs,’ it’s so exhausting,” she said.

“Existing in a fat body, it’s a privilege to go into a store and have something that you can physically try on,” she says. “I love things made to order, bespoke and having that option, but at the same time if you’re in a slump you just want to look sexy on a date, I want to go to a store and buy something off the rack. There aren’t a lot of options for that.

As a “curved” model, Parker also had a unique grip. “So often the style of curvy, plus-sized people, as a model, I’ve experienced that too – the focus is on hiding your body, or trying to make you look as small as physically possible, or over coverage of areas that people consider to be “undesirable”.

'Curve' model Kaarina Parker shared her experience in the industry.

Becki Moss/Supplied

‘Curve’ model Kaarina Parker shared her experience in the industry.

“I want to see everyday clothes designed to fit our bodies,” Matata-Sipu commented. “I want to wear well-fitting, beautifully made clothes that I can wear every day, and be proud of who made them, how they were made, but also know that I look good and that I feel good when I’m in it.”

We’re excited to share this important kōrero as part of the Stuff Festival of Fashion, and will post the full panel conversation at Together next week.

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French fashion

Marie-Claire Chevalier, catalyst for French abortion law, dies at 66

Marie-Claire Chevalier was born on July 12, 1955 into a working-class family in Meung-sur-Loire, near Orléans.

Her father was never part of the picture. Her mother, who was a ticket inspector for the RATP, the public transport company, raised her alone, along with her two younger sisters.

In the 2019 interview, Ms Chevalier described her clandestine abortion as “a second rape”, a gruesome and painful procedure which she says led to her hemorrhaging and being rushed to hospital, close to death.

She was in her 30s before she had sex again, she said. But she and her partner could not conceive and she feared the abortion had made her sterile. In 1988, she finally had a daughter.

Besides her mother, she is survived by her daughter, three grandchildren and her two sisters.

She then worked as a childminder and as a welder for the army. Around 40, she became a nurse, working in a hospital and a retirement home. In her later years, she lived alone with her many cats and two horses in the countryside.

“She died without ever asking anyone,” her mother said in an interview. “She needed help and she never contacted us.”

But she remains a source of inspiration for young French feminists.

“Marie-Claire Chevalier gave us the most beautiful gift”, Céline Piques, spokesperson for “Osez le féminisme!” (“Dare to be a feminist!”) Said in an interview. That gift, she said, was to champion the cause of abortion rights “and to accept being exposed publicly, with the consequences I assume that had on her personal life.”

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Fashion brand

FTC Fines Fashion Company $4.2 Million For Blocking Negative Customer Reviews | Arent fox

The FTC’s recent allegations with Fashion Nova

Fashion Nova, LLC, is a California-based “fast fashion” retailer that describes itself as “the world’s leading fast-to-market apparel and lifestyle brand.” The company operates an e-commerce platform, as well as a handful of physical locations, and has a major social media presence, including more than 25 million subscribers and partnerships with celebrities like Cardi B, Megan Thee Stallion, Justin Bieber. , and Kendall Jenner.

In its allegations against Fashion Nova, the FTC alleges that Fashion Nova misled its customers in violation of Section 5 of the US FTC Act by blocking negative customer reviews of its products. Specifically, a recent FTC press release states that the retailer “misrepresented that product reviews on its website reflected the opinions of all shoppers who submitted reviews, when in fact it removed reviews with ratings less than four out of five stars.”

In the complaint, the FTC calls out Fashion Nova for its comment review framework. Specifically, Fashion Nova used a third-party online review system that automatically posted four- and five-star reviews to the website, but retained less-starred reviews for corporate approval. However, the company has never endorsed or published the hundreds of thousands of less starred reviews. To settle the allegations, Fashion Nova has agreed to pay just over $4 million and will be obligated to post all reviews of products currently sold on its website. This isn’t Fashion Nova’s first encounter with the FTC. In April 2020, he had to pay $9.3 million for failing to ship products in a timely manner and illegally issuing gift cards in lieu of refunds.

FTC issues new guidelines for online retailers

In addition to the settlement with Fashion Nova, the FTC also recently issued guidance on handling customer reviews that online retailers should carefully consider. According to the “Soliciting and Paying for Online Reviews” guidelines, retailers are encouraged to carefully consider the processes by which reviews are collected and published. When collecting reviews, companies should not prevent, discourage or intimidate people from submitting negative reviews. Businesses should also not only ask for reviews from people who will leave positive reviews. Additionally, the FTC encourages companies to have “reasonable processes in place to verify that reviews are genuine and not false, misleading, or otherwise manipulated” and to treat positive and negative reviews equally. Finally, for review of postings, FTC staff encourages companies to post all notices and not to display notices in a misleading manner.

Main Takeaway

Businesses need to educate their digital marketing and website management teams. Tampering with reviews is prohibited by the FTC and may be considered an unfair or deceptive trade practice in violation of FTC law. Retailers are encouraged to review their existing practices to ensure compliance.

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Fashion style

Jennifer Lopez’s best fashion from the “Marry Me” press tour: photos

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Fashion designer

Nino Cerruti gave elegance a good reputation

Elegance, said Nino Cerruti, got on his nerves. It was the kind of remark you can afford to make when you’re easily the most elegant man in the room. And Mr. Cerruti, who died last month at the age of 91, embodied that attribute, a quality rarely encountered but undeniable when you are in his presence.

“It can be learned, but you have to have a natural disposition for it,” he said in a interview at L’Officiel USA last year.

Although sartorial elegance is an instinct, as Mr. Cerruti suggested, it can be anatomized. It stems from knowing yourself and staying true to yourself; to ruthlessly assess physical flaws and strengths in order to understand the effect of your body moving through space. It depends, to some extent, on learning the basics of dress-up before throwing it.

As we enter the third year of a still, mostly pandemic, sitting at home in our relaxed duds, it might seem that having an aptitude for elegance is as useful as knowing how to prune a bonsai tree.

Yet, as recent menswear and couture shows across Europe suggest, a stylish mirage looms on the horizon. Designers, experts and consumers are looking for reasons to dress up again – regularly and in public. By this one, we don’t mean for Instagram selfies or red-letter events like, say, the Met Gala, which has come to look like the fashion version of Comic Con.

On the catwalks and showrooms of Milan and Paris, brands like Prada, Louis Vuitton and Tod’s represented individual visions of clothing that nodded obliquely at Mr. Cerruti, who insiders know he laid the foundations of a post-war Italian ready-to-wear industry that produced Italian clothing. elegance a global identity.

“I’m very drawn to this idea of ​​chic,” Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi said last month in Milan after previewing a beautiful capsule collection of reworked classics that could have been hacked into wardrobes. of a certain type of Italian. of a particular pedigree – someone like Nino Cerruti. “These northern Italians traditionally had that quality,” Mr. Chiapponi said. ” It is a question of culture.

The poster of this form of chic was by reflex Gianni Agnelli, the industrialist and heir to Fiat. Mr. Agnelli, however, was a showboat, partly a creation of a post-war tabloid culture fascinated by the doings of a newly minted cosmopolitan jet set.

The contrast between the two men is also instructive. Where Mr. Agnelli’s signatures (knotted-shoulder sweaters, denim skiwear, soft-soled driving shoes, ties tucked into waistbands, wristwatches worn on a shirt cuff) came together as expressions of sprezzatura, an overused term for elegance thrown wide, Mr. Cerruti’s was more authentic and relaxed. He dressed so as not to be noticed. Yet when you were with him, you wondered why he looked so much better than anyone else in sight.

“He was the most stylish man I’ve ever met,” said Emanuele Farneti, fashion and style editor at Italian daily La Repubblica. “He was the symbol of a certain elegance specific to regions and generations, such as Milan and Turin. It’s a kind of chic that’s the opposite of showing off.

In a sense, Mr Farneti said, it’s no surprise that Cerruti “discovered Armani”, whom the older man spotted as a relative stranger employed at the La Rinascente department store and hired to design menswear. for his Hitman label. In his 50-year career, Giorgio Armani has rarely strayed from a calm basic aesthetic. When critics criticize the apparent monotony of his work, they also tend to overlook his early innovations.

More than any other designer, Mr. Armani can be credited with popularizing the deconstructed suit. And, intentionally or not, contemporary designers like Jerry Lorenzo at Fear of God or Mike Amiri at Amiri nod to his legacy with each new collection of their high-end streetwear. Mr. Armani did not “invent” deconstruction, however. If anyone, Nino Cerruti did it. “He was the trailblazer,” said Nick Sullivan, Esquire’s creative director.

Coming from a family of industrialists whose Lanificio Cerruti woolen mills were founded in 1881 in the northern town of Biella, Mr. Cerruti was the first to notice the potential to diversify from fabric manufacturing to tailoring. “With Walter Albini, he was the forerunner of what became Italian ready-to-wear,” Sullivan said. “He was a rock star in the late 60s.”

Among the innovations Mr. Cerruti pioneered were wetsuits stripped of their rigid interior structures. “He was among the first to deconstruct the jacket,” said Angelo Flaccavento, an Italian style writer.

Unlike the soft Neapolitan shirt tailoring popular since the 1920s, when upper-class Englishmen sent their tailors to Naples to copy local techniques, Mr. Cerruti retained the structure of his suits while relaxing them. The simple decision to remove linen, flannel, horsehair and other basic elements from traditional suits ultimately affected the course of modern menswear.

Mr. Cerruti was a pioneer in many other ways. In the early days of the asexual fashion concept, which he called “couples’ clothing,” he also regularly dressed celebrities, including Anita Ekberg, Jean-Paul Belmondo, and Harrison Ford, and not because his publicists stalked them for lucrative endorsements. Many of his star customers, he says, “came as customers of my Paris boutique.”

Curiously, given that he has provided clothing for countless films, his cinematic contribution has generally gone unrecognized. “So many things that people think Armani was in the movies were Cerruti,” designer Umit Benan noted last week by phone from Milan.

Although it was costume designer Marilyn Vance who chose the ‘Pretty Woman’ wardrobe, it was her choice of the Cerruti costume that dignified the millionaire played by Richard Gere and gave an enduring elegance to an essentially generic character. .

Cerruti designs have appeared in films as disparate as “Wall Street” and “The Silence of the Lambs” and have been worn by generations of fashionable men. Yet no one has ever managed to look as stylish as the designer himself. There were her sorbet-colored sweaters draped (but not tied) over the shoulders. There were her quirky polka dot green socks worn with gray flannel pants. There were his pinstriped shirts invariably worn over a dark T-shirt and under a tweed jacket, with no tie. There were his Yohji Yamamoto sneakers and the sewing tricks that few experts could detect.

“He was very aware of his body and his figure and how to work with it,” Flaccavento said.

Tall and lanky, Mr. Cerruti was long in the chest and dressed in a way that minimized the flaws in his figure. “In my mind, I see him in a soft suit, usually gray, with an open-necked shirt with a contrasting dark T-shirt underneath,” said Peter Speliopoulos, former creative director of DKNY and who was one of the many talents. (Véronique Nichanian of Hermès and Narciso Rodriguez were others) spotted or hired early on by Mr. Cerruti.

“He belted his high pants, wore a well-worn leather belt, to accentuate his waist – or give the illusion of really long legs,” Mr Speliopoulos said.

Until the end, he smoked like a fiend and lit his cigarettes with matches, somehow lending an element of chic even to this habit. “He was devilishly elegant,” said Mr. Flaccavento, who in 2015 organized an exhibition at Florence’s Museo Marino Marini of clothes from Mr. Cerruti’s personal wardrobe – he rarely threw anything away – which included suits, jackets, pants, evening wear. and capes tracing the evolution of Italian menswear through six decades.

Among the most fascinating items on display in this exhibit was a moth-ventilated frayed woolen jacket. Humble as he was, there was elegance in the designer’s shameless decision to not just keep an old garment, but to display it as representative of himself.

“I kept it for a simple reason,” Mr. Cerruti told that reporter at the time. “I’ve always loved this fabric.”

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French fashion

‘We don’t want Playstation rugby’ – James Ryan hails change of style as Ireland put their game plan to the test in France

Ireland vice-captain James Ryan says the team appreciate the “heads-up” attacking approach that has brought them such success in recent months.

Leinster’s second tier said head coach Andy Farrell had urged them not to get sucked into playing pre-scheduled “Playstation rugby” but to support their skills on the pitch.

Farrell’s proteges travel to Paris this Saturday looking for a 10th straight victory, a win that would put them firmly in the box seat for a first Guinness Six Nations title since 2018 and potentially a Grand Slam.

Ryan knows the reborn Frenchman will offer a new threat, but Lock says the team relishes an environment that allows them to trust their skills.

“That would be one of the things ‘Faz’ (Farrell) would say, we don’t want to play ‘Playstation rugby’,” said the Dubliner.

“We want to play what’s in front of us, not just play the game for fun, just play early where the space is or play what’s going on.

“So I think that’s one thing that happened. We play early in space, our attack is very connected and we play one-on-one rugby. This is definitely an area that we have looked into.

Although the Irish players always insisted they were heading in the right direction when the team went through a period of difficult results and performances last season, Ryan conceded the winning run helped instill confidence much needed in Farrell’s team. However, he cautioned against getting carried away with home wins against New Zealand in November and Wales last week at the Aviva Stadium.

“It kind of instills a belief that the path you’re on is going in the right direction,” he said.

“I think trust is important. Probably at the same time, I know what we talked about last week, in 2018 we beat New Zealand at home in the Aviva and it was a massive victory, the first time on Irish soil… the first Six Nations game.

“So I think we’re pretty grounded and we know it’s a new campaign now. It’s not starting again but there can be no complacency, we have to keep moving forward,” Ryan continued.

“Although we were happy with last week, this week is another challenge and a good opportunity for us to keep pushing our limits.

“It was a good start. Probably the good thing about it is, as Faz said and he was right, it was a good start but there were a lot of things we could be better at.

“It’s a good place to be with this week in mind. The general feeling was that we have another level within us, so there is a lot to improve and work on and it’s been an exciting week.

“It’s one of the games you want to be in, away from Stade de France. It’s such an amazing stadium and these are the games you want to be in, so it’s a great feeling for the week. until now.”

Ryan made his Six Nations debut on the day Johnny Sexton dropped that goal, but he also has fond memories of his last visit to the French capital, when Ireland’s title hopes went up in smoke behind closed doors closed.

“It was amazing. The whole week was just class, I had no plans to start this game at all at the time and I was in the team and it was amazing, to be involved in a game like that was amazing,” he said. of the 2018 game.

“I just remember the noise in the stadium, the French were really behind their team and were really involved in the game.

“Last time we went there were 80,000 empty seats, so this weekend there will be 80,000 people and that’s another part, the crowd definitely plays a role.

“I guess we’ll have to do our best to calm them down, for lack of a better word.”

France will have to cope without injured half-back Mathieu Jalibert, with the Bordeaux Bègles star set to be ruled out with a thigh problem meaning Romain Ntamack will continue at No.10.

Coach Fabien Galthié is due to return to training today after missing out on Sunday’s win over Italy with Covid-19. Like Ireland, France name their team tomorrow.

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Fashion brand

Ride for the exclusive Greggs and Primark fashion collaboration | Business

Shoppers across the UK passing by their local Primark were perplexed over the weekend when they spotted Greggs steaks and vegan sausage rolls discreetly slipped into the handbags and pockets of models in shop windows. Their curiosity was further piqued on Primark’s social media accounts, which displayed a receipt showing items from Gregg’s menu with a curious emoji.

The secret has now been revealed as the two popular high street retailers announced a partnership on their social media channels in a carefully curated PR moment, announcing the launch of a new fashion line on February 19 and l opening of Tasty by Greggs, a new cafe at Primark’s Birmingham branch said to be the “world’s most Instagrammable Greggs”, a week before February 12.

The launch video promised, “We make tidy food, we make tidy fashion. Together we are unstoppable.

The stray baked goods sparked a lot of speculation about the collaboration on social media this weekend. A commentatorwhose tweet received thousands of likes, said: “Thanks to Newcastle Primark legend who accidentally left a load of Greggs in the shop window.”

The 130-seat cafe will open in Primark’s largest store selling Gregg’s signature dishes including sausage rolls, pastries, pizza, desserts and coffee. It promises the “ultimate Greggs experience,” filled with tables decorated to look like donuts and a donut swing where the brand hopes customers will snap photos to post on Instagram.

Greggs has yet to reveal the clothing line and whether it will feature prints of his iconic baked goods, but a PR image shows a simple hoodie with the Greggs logo. The limited edition range of 11 pieces will be available in 60 stores.

Raymond Reynolds, Greggs’ business development manager, said customers have “continually requested” Greggs-branded clothing. “Fans can literally show their love for Greggs on their sleeves,” he said.

Greggs and Primark will open a pop-up store in Soho between February 17 and 18 to “offer avid fashionistas the chance to get their hands on some of the new collection before the rest of the nation”, with two pieces available free of charge for those who manage to secure a slot when reservations open on February 10.

Tim Kelly, director of new business development at Primark, said the retailer was looking to team up with brands “we know [our customers] love” on clothing lines and in-store experiences.

Collaborations are increasingly popular among brands to allow them to reach two sets of customers at once. One of the most iconic brand partnerships is that between Nike and Apple, which was formed in 2006 and includes Apple Watch Nike, a collaboration that combines technology and fitness.

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Fashion style

Ashneer Grover INSULTS fashion designer Niti Singhal’s SENSE OF STYLE on Shark Tank India!

News

In one of the promos, which was previously shared, shark Ashneer Grover can be seen telling the designer, “Hawk hi ganda fashion hai ye. do you have your time?”

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Fashion designer

The first posthumous retrospective devoted to designer Virgil Abloh will be presented at the Brooklyn Museum this summer

This summer, the Brooklyn Museum will stage a version of the first institutional survey devoted to the late fashion designer and creative visionary Virgil Abloh. The exhibit, titled “Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech,” will build on an earlier exhibit of the same name that opened at MCA Chicago in 2019 and later traveled to ICA Boston, the High Museum in Atlanta and Qatar Museums.

Installation view, Virgil Abloh: “Figures of Speech”, MCA Chicago. Photo: Nathan Keay, ©MCA Chicago.

Just two and a half months after the show opened in Abloh’s native Illinois, more than 100,000 visitors had already attended, and show dates were extended to accommodate interest. The Brooklyn Museum presentation is curated by writer and curator Antwaun Sargent and will be the first museum exhibit since Abloh’s death in November at the age of 41.

Installation view "Virgil Abloh: Figures of speech" at MCA Chicago.  © Nathan Keay, courtesy of MCA Chicago

Installation view of “Virgil Abloh: Figures of Speech” at MCA Chicago. © Nathan Keay, courtesy of MCA Chicago.

Abloh earned a degree in civil engineering and trained as an architect before turning to a career in the fashion world. In “Figures of Speech” – which was originally conceived as a mid-career survey, but is now a posthumous retrospective – Abloh’s prodigious output over two decades is exposed, showing how the creator has frequently bridged the gaps between streetwear and high fashion.

There will be doors in the MCA exhibit with labels: one that says “Tourist” and the other “Purist”, both of which are ways Abloh has described himself at different times in his career, in looking like an outsider, and later looking at the empire he created.

Virgil Abloh: “Figures of Speech” is on view at the Brooklyn Museum from July 1, 2022 through January 29, 2023.

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French fashion

Bumble makes its first acquisition with a deal for French Gen Z dating app Fruitz

Dating app company Bumble, Inc. makes its first acquisition with today’s announcement that it is adding the fast-growing French dating app Fruitz to its family of applications. Although Bumble, Inc. already has an international footprint as a head quarter at Badoo, which is particularly popular in Europe, he sees the addition of Fruitz as a way to gain more traction with a younger Gen Z audience.

Terms of the agreement were not disclosed.

The original Fruitz app takes an unconventional approach to helping users find matches, as it assigns a fruit to each particular type of relationship type, ranging from those who want long-term commitments to those looking for action. ‘a night. This allows users to filter out those who are not on the same page as them. It also prompts users to answer some ice-breaker questions before messaging their match.

Fruitz was co-founded by Julian Kabab (CEO), Fabrice Bascoulergue (CTO) and Arnaud Ruols (CFO) and originally launched in France on February 1, 2017. Kabab said the idea for the app came from his own attempt to use of dating apps, where he was matched with someone who had different intentions in terms of what he wanted from the experience.

“Expressing what you are looking for is not easy because we are afraid of being judged. As a result, no one was honest with their intentions and everyone was wasting their time,” he said. “Enabling people to be honest with their intentions was our first mission.”

Picture credits: Fruitz

To date, Fruitz has been downloaded 5.6 million times worldwide on the App Store and Google Play, according to sensor tower The data. As of February 3, 2022, the app was ranked #4 in the top free iPhone rankings in the “Lifestyle” category in its home market of France.

Like many modern dating apps, it offers a swipe-based interface and a freemium experience.

For Bumble, however, the draw wasn’t necessarily in the unique features of the app, but rather in its demographics. The company saw how Fruitz had particular reach with Gen Z, a growing audience in the dating app market. The app was also gaining traction in major Western European countries, including France, Belgium, the Netherlands, Switzerland and Spain, in addition to experiencing rapid growth in Canada.

“Fruitz is a brand and leadership team that I have followed for years,” Bumble founder and CEO Whitney Wolfe Herd said in a statement. “Julian, Fabrice and Arnaud are dynamic and brilliant leaders who have built a unique product that has struck a powerful chord with consumers in France and across Europe. By connecting the app to our technology platform, support community, brand and growth marketing, we can accelerate the growth of Fruitz,” she said. “The acquisition of Fruitz allows us to expand our product offering to consumers in line with our goal of strengthening the relationships.”

Bumble will integrate Fruitz into its suite of dating apps while providing it with resources such as machine learning technology, marketing, localization and security platforms. There are no plans to rebrand or scale down Fruitz operations. Instead, the app’s nine-person team, including all of the co-founders, will continue to run the app from their home country of France. Together, Bumble, Inc. – which now includes Fruitz, Badoo and Bumble – has over 900 employees with offices in Austin, London, Barcelona, ​​Paris and Moscow.

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Fashion brand

Reese Cooper Men’s Collection Fall 2022

In the middle of a Zoom call with Reese Cooper, the power goes out in his new studio in Los Angeles. In the frame, he’s frozen holding a navy plaid anorak that folds over itself, the garment caught somewhere between sartorial tradition and the gorpy streetwear that Cooper is known for. It’s a funny place where everything goes haywire because this piece of clothing, in many ways, symbolizes everything he’s trying to do with his Fall 2022 collection: take a leap towards more fitted, sophisticated and “adults” without losing the rebellious, outdoorsy heart of its brand.

His views on fashion began to change during the pandemic and after two outdoor shows in Los Angeles, he was certain Fall 2022 would be his return to Paris Fashion Week. But no ! Even so, he began to design the collection keeping in mind the refined traditions of Paris. Her checks and houndstooth prints are hand-drawn in her studio with subtle incorporations of the brand’s deer logo hidden in the pleats of the pants. Camouflage, a staple of his work, is so tonal you might not even realize it’s camouflage.

For the first time, Cooper sews, his own way. A mossy cropped cargo jacket and wide leg pants with metal clip detailing are his take on a suit. He tested them at the CFDA Awards last November and hopes his customers will experience “the widest leg pants we’ve ever made”.

A 12-hour Instagram live stream was designed to convince Cooper friends and clients to step out of their comfort zone. In partnership with the platform and Shopify, Cooper released his entire lookbook for the world to see. It’s a six-camera setup where “anything can go wrong,” he laughs. Let’s just hope the tide doesn’t go out on such a big leap forward.

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Fashion style

urban monkey: this is how this hypebeast fashion brand got to Shark Tank India

Millennial Indian fashion brands are making their presence felt across the country, but these are some that are truly in the spotlight and one fashion brand that has become the talk of the town, thanks to TV show Shark Tank -Indian commercial reality is Urban Monkey. Here’s how the brand ended up on the much-talked-about show.

According to reports, the brand was founded with the intention of providing must-have products for skaters, athletes and underground artists in India.

Yash Gangwal, founder of Urban Monkey has been skateboarding since the age of 12 and is passionate about Hip Hop. They started designing and selling caps and skateboards, today they are considered the biggest headwear brand in India.

Although Urban Monkey is considered a specialist in caps and accessories, they have also successfully launched many categories in the streetwear and lifestyle sector since 2013.

The emergence of streetwear fashion has become the latest craze in the youth style world. Streetwear fashion has also gained popularity in India. Previously, it was a style reserved for artists and countercultures. Now you can see streetwear being embraced by many men and women in India. Urban Monkey made it possible to choose style and comfort without compromising on style and quality. They specialize in streetwear and hypebeast clothing to get your street style on point.

“Our journey started in a small office in Charni Road with 0 employees. At that time, we were hardly making any money, but I was still hanging out with skateboarders and rappers in Mumbai, trying to help in any way In 2016 we started collaborating with Dharavi United and that’s where it all started after two years of working with and supporting young artists Urban Monkey went on hiatus with their products being used heavily in Gully Boy, with Ranveer Singh. Now Urban Monkey sells over 50,000 products a year and has a team of 21 people,” says Yash Gangwal.

Urban Monkey is a pioneering Indian New Age streetwear brand for unisex clothing in India.

Even being booted due to community acceptance, Urban Monkey managed to collaborate with Rannvijay Singha, Raftaar, Bhuvan Bam, and Gully Gang.

Urban Monkey may be synonymous with Hip Hop in India, but is also hugely popular among dancers, musicians, athletes and designers.

At Shark Tank, Urban Monkey received 3 offers from Peyush Bansal, Aman Gupta and Ashneer Grover.

“It is heartening to see that our vision and hard work has been appreciated by such reputable entrepreneurs and venture capitalists. We will continue to strive to be at the forefront of new age Streetwear fashion and support the Hip community. Hop and Underground in India”, says Yash Gangwal. With ANI inputs

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Fashion designer

TALK OF THE TOWN: Controversial Downing Street designer Lulu Lytle fights back

TALK OF THE TOWN: Controversial Downing Street designer Lulu Lytle fights back










Downing Street designer Lulu Lytle has fought back after her style was denounced as ‘imperial nostalgia’.

Author Sathnam Sanghera tweeted the term and described the prime minister’s apartment she helped decorate and furnish – above Chancellor Rishi Sunak’s office – as the ‘ultimate brown person’s nightmare’.

My photo, below, shows an example of Lulu’s style.

She tells me that her work is “underpinned by research and discussions with experts on global influences on design and the exchange of ideas”.

She called on textile expert Karun Thakar to defend her and he messaged me saying, “We need individuals like Lulu who are aware of and support these struggles.”

Downing Street designer Lulu Lytle has fought back after her style was denounced as ‘imperial nostalgia’

She tells me that her job is

She tells me her work is “underpinned by research and discussions with experts on global influences on design and the exchange of ideas”

Thandiwe’s tattoo is completely insane

When I first spotted this Instagram snap of Line Of Duty star Thandiwe Newton I thought she had gone to a children’s party and let one of the youngsters get carried away with crayons .

In fact, this engraving of the cartoon character Touché Turtle looks like a real tattoo, which won’t wash off with soap and water.

The 49-year-old Bafta-winning actress said the heroic fencing reptile was her “childhood favourite” and had been inked at the Frith Street Tattoo in London’s Soho.

It will be interesting to see how this matches up with her upcoming red carpet dress.

When I first spotted this Instagram snap of Line Of Duty star Thandiwe Newton I thought she had gone to a children's party and let one of the youngsters let loose carried away by colored pencils.

When I first spotted this Instagram snap of Line Of Duty star Thandiwe Newton I thought she had gone to a children’s party and let one of the youngsters s’ pack with crayons

Daisy Lowe claimed she was ‘Covid tested and ready to party’ when she took this bathroom selfie.

I’d say she wasn’t quite ready because she’s missing something quite important – her clothes.

The 33-year-old model and former Strictly Come Dancing contestant, daughter of rocker Gavin Rossdale and fashion designer Pearl Lowe, was dressed in nothing but a black bra, high-waisted underwear and tights.

Later that week, she posted her first-ever TikTok video dressed in not much else once again.

“I recommend shaking off those gray days by dancing in your underwear,” she wrote. Daisy will be chilled to the bone if she continues like this.

Daisy Lowe claimed she was

Daisy Lowe claimed she was ‘Covid tested and ready to party’ when she took this bathroom selfie

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French fashion

Queen Elizabeth makes her first public appearance in 2022 and prepares for the events of the 70th day of accession

On Sunday, queen elizabeth will commemorate the 70th anniversary of its Membership day, the longest reign of the British monarchy. (Afterwards it’s just two years and 100 days more to catch Louis XIV of France.) As such, the next record-breaking anniversary, known as the Platinum Jubilee, will be a big deal in the United Kingdom, leading to a four day holiday (held in June) as well as something wonderfully called the Platinum Pudding Contest.

Recently, the Queen has been absent from public functions on doctor’s orders, but it looks like that won’t be the case on Sunday. As a kickoff, she appeared on Saturday at Sandringham House in Norfolk to meet volunteer workers, in the largest in-person engagement she has held since October.

The 95-year-old monarch met Angela Woodwho at the age of 19 in 1953 created Coronation Chicken, a popular dish combining poultry, mayonnaise, curry powder and apricots. “That probably changed because in those days we were doing some things very differently,” the queen remarked upon learning the ingredient list.

Later during the festivities, she wielded a large knife and cut deep into an icy Victoria sponge with the Platinum Jubilee logo as decoration. (Last summer, the Queen attacked a cake with a sword.) She then allegedly chatted with representatives of local charities and pensioners, reminiscing about a great flood in Norfolk in 1953, which she called ” very unpleasant experience.”

Naturally, no one was rude enough to mention his son, Prince Andrewwho was stripped of his royal privileges last month after a New York judge refused to dismiss a civil suit accusing him of having sex with an underage victim of Jeffrey Epstein.

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Fashion brand

Skall Studio Copenhagen Fall 2022 Collection

Slow and steady wins the race in the case of Skall Studio, a brand founded in 2014 by Julie and Marie Skall, which is now one of the busiest salons on the Copenhagen calendar. The sisters took their time getting up to speed, growing from a team of two to over 20 in nine years. “From the start, we had a very clear vision of what we wanted to create, and then it went at our own pace and we didn’t compromise anything in the process,” Julie said. She’s not kidding either: “We have a rule,” the designer explained, “we don’t produce anything we don’t like ourselves.”

Some of the things the Skalls love are tonal palettes, vintage menswear (especially sleepwear), and The Beatles. They are particularly fans of the lifestyle of Paul, Linda and Stella McCartney. Before founding the brand, Marie and Julie became vegetarians; as a result, they decided not to use any leather or fur. But what about knitwear – which is such an important part of Nordic satrorial tradition and key to Skall Studio’s aesthetic – since wool is an animal product? In their native Jutland, the Skalls discovered one of the last spinning mills in Denmark, a local wool mill, and they left. The burly guy wearing one of the cable knits made from this yarn in these photos is the mill owner’s son, which really comes full circle.

Although the collection feels very Danish due to its soft colors, responsible manufacturing and minimal aesthetic, it is inspired by the Scottish countryside, which the sisters visited as children. The show included a live performance by local artist Selma Judith, and the lineup included familiar Skallisms like pinafore dresses and shirts. Well-tailored outerwear was new for the season; it had been put on hold until the designers could find the right suppliers and producers. “You could say we’re a slow fashion brand because we only do what we think is right,” Julie noted. This new category has added a bit of urban polish to a brand that tends towards the intimate, the rustic and the hyggeligt.

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Fashion style

Janet Jackson’s ’90s style includes crop tops and baggy jeans

Janet Jackson has done it all – not only as one of the best-selling artists and performers of all time, but her style remains as influential as ever.

From the very beginning of his career in the late 60s as a child star, Jackson has had many definitive eras over the decades. But there was something about the 90s that really formed her signature style and put her on the fashion map. Whether it’s a power suit on the red carpet or her love of crop tops and baggy jeans, the pop and R&B musician has always served up a laid-back, powerful style. Plus, she was all about the details that really made her outfits pop, from a simple pair of sunglasses to her must-have buckle belt or an added hat or hair accessory to complete the complete look.

Coming soon, see Janet Jackson’s best 90s fashion moments.

1990, Met Center

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At the turn of the decade, the singer performed at the Met Center in Minnesota, wearing a black bralette with a white button-up top tucked into black pants.

1990 Hollywood Walk of Fame

Jim Smeal/Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images

While showing off his newly added plaque on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Jackson wore his all-black signature Rhythmic Nation 1814 see.

1990, Billboard Music Awards

Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images

In the very first edition Billboard Music Awards, Jackson donned a black underwired bralette and cropped blazer. She also wore leather pants and a chunky western-inspired buckle belt and silver hoop earrings.

1992, Soul Train Music Award

Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images

At the 1992 Soul Train Music Awards, the singer wore a short-sleeved white top paired with a long black skirt. She then accessorized with large golden hoops and a black beret.

1992, IFP/West Independent Spirit Awards

Ron Galella, Ltd./Ron Galella Collection/Getty Images

Janet Jackson attended the 1992 IFP/West Independent Spirit Awards wearing a black long sleeve top tucked into baggy jeans and black leather boots. She was also wearing her buckled belt and a beret.

1993, Grammy Awards

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At the 1993 Grammy Awards, the singer wore a white suit with a matching white headband and a diamond necklace.

1993 Hollywood Walk of Fame

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Standing between producers Jimmy Jam and Terrence Lewis on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, Janet wore a black sweater vest with embroidered patches and a white shirt. She completed her look with black pants, shiny leather boots, black frames and a hat.

1993, Target Center

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In 1993, Jackson performed in Minnesota wearing a leather bralette under plaid flannel paired with denim jeans, a buckle belt, and a scarf.

1994, Oscars

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At the 1994 Oscars, Jackson was spotted with her then-husband Rene Elizondo wearing an all-white look, including an oversized white blazer with baggy pants, a diamond necklace and a white shoulder bag.

1994, Janet After the tour

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While celebrating his sold-out concert tour for the Janet album, the singer wore a cropped black turtleneck with distressed jeans and a black leather bag.

1994, MTV Movie Awards

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On stage for the 1994 MTV Movie Awards, she wore a black and white striped crop top with black joggers and boots.

1994, MTV VMAs

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At the 1994 MTV VMAs, the Janet star rocked baggy denim dungarees with a black top and black shoes, paired with a logo cap.

1995, Janet Tower

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During her sold-out London tour in 1995, the musician performed on stage in her coveted “If” outfit, which included an embellished cropped jacket and white top, along with high-waisted stockings, thigh-high snakeskin and an elaborate belt.

1995, MTV VMAs

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1997, The Velvet Rope album launch

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At the launch of his new album The Velvet Rope in 1997, the queen of R&B wore an oversized leather jacket with a green dress. She accessorized with gold hoops and a bling-out necklace.

1997, The Velvet Rope album release party

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During the launch party of his album for The Velvet RopeJackson wore a black macrame top with a black bra underneath with cargo pants and platform boots.

1997, The Velvet Rope album release party

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She was also seen at the album release party with model Naomi Campbell and singer Lisa Marie Presley wearing a gray blazer and black silk dress.

1997, MTV VMAs

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Wearing a red short-sleeved button-up top with a black silk maxi dress and red sandals at the 1997 MTV VMAs.

1998 Blockbuster Awards

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Jackson attended the 1998 Blockbuster Awards in a cropped black fuzzy cardigan and peeking bralette from underneath, along with khaki cargo pants and a black belt.

1998, Janet Jackson Press conference

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At a press conference in 1998, the musician wore a striped blazer with matching pants.

1998, The Velvet Rope Party

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Jackson was seen alongside Chris Rock in a gray tank top with black pants. She also teamed her look with her signature belt and a black South Park embroidered hat.

1999, Oscars

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Jackson is definitely a fan of the belly trend, as seen in a long-sleeved crop top with an elaborate skirt and diamond V-shaped necklace in 1999 at the Oscars.

1999, Source Hip Hop Music Awards

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As of 1999 Source Hip-Hop Music Awards, the singer attended the red carpet event wearing a long black dress with an iridescent yellow corset.

1999, MTV VMAs

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The singer ended the decade alongside rapper Q-Tip, wearing a dark blue dress and a shimmering diamond necklace at the 1999 MTV VMAs.

Check out more 90s fashion moments from Lauryn Hill, Mary J. Blige and Neve Campbell.

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Fashion designer

Tod’s supports young creative talents with a regeneration project – WWD

MILAN — Tod’s continues to support the creativity of young talent with its Re-Generation project.

With a focus on sustainability, Tod’s Academy selected 20 young students from Istituto Marangoni in Milan and Florence to interpret the brand codes on a range of different new products.

This is the second such project for Tod’s Academy, following the Legacy chapter in collaboration with Central Saint Martins University of Arts in London last year.

Students come not only from Italy but also from other countries, from Taiwan and India to China, Azerbaijan, Iran and Brazil.

A sketch of the Tod’s Academy project
ONSTAGESTUDIO – image courtesy of Tod’s

Carlo Alberto Beretta, Tod’s brand general manager, said the aim of the Re-Generation project was to “stimulate young creative people from all over the world who come to Italy to study and create products with a strong focus on sustainability, a subject that is increasingly more central to all the initiatives that Tod’s has been carrying out for some time.These students, in collaboration with our craftsmen, express the best of themselves using the techniques and know-how artisans.

Beretta also sees this project as a way to help students enter the job market. “They are an inexhaustible source of ideas and innovation,” he added.

The students, who were looking to find environmentally friendly materials, were mentored throughout the project, with the possibility of approaching the world of design and production through an experience at the company’s headquarters and to see the craftsmen at work. Mentors ranged from Laura Brown, Editor-in-Chief of InStyle USA, to Gianluca Longo, Editor-in-Chief of British Vogue and Style Director of The World of Interiors, and Simone Marchetti, Editor-in-Chief of Vanity Fair Italia and European Editorial Director of Vanity Fair, among others.

Stefania Valenti, Managing Director of Istituto Marangoni, said the project “gave the students such a level of awareness and a truly immersive knowledge of product development. In particular, the experience at the Tod’s Group headquarters in Marche gave them a unique opportunity to deal with the craftsmen who are the custodians of the brand’s heritage and from which any possible evolution begins.Thanks to this exchange, our students were able to finalize their creative proposals, be offered a vision of a concrete project and, potentially, a production.

The Tod’s Academy, based at the brand’s headquarters in the Marche region, was conceived with the aim of protecting and extending Italian craftsmanship from generation to generation, combined with the creativity of young designers.

The products will be unveiled Friday on Tod’s digital channels and an experience at Tod’s headquarters will be offered to some of the most talented students.

Tod's

A sketch of the Tod’s Academy project.
ONSTAGESTUDIO – image courtesy of Tod’s

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French fashion

Hubert de Givenchy’s Fine Arts and Decorative Arts collection at auction

French fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy at the Gemeentemuseum in The Hague on November 23, 2016 during a retrospective of the fashion designer’s work at the To Audrey With Love exhibition. More than 1,200 lots of works of art and decorative arts from its two houses will be auctioned via Christie’s Paris in June.

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The fine and decorative art collection of the late French fashion designer Hubert de Givenchy will be auctioned via Christie’s in June.

More than 1,200 lots, including French and European furniture, sculptures, Old Master paintings, and modern and contemporary works of art, will be sold in a series of live, online auctions from July 14 to June 23.

“Through this sale, we are very happy to be able to celebrate the exceptional taste of Hubert de Givenchy and his lifelong companion Philippe Venet,” the Givenchy family said in a statement via Christie’s. “We wish to share the elegance and the aesthetic heritage that they bequeathed to us in order to inscribe their vision in the history of art and interior decoration in a universal way.

Hubert de Givenchy (1927-2018) moved to Paris at age 17 to study at the Beaux-Arts and later apprenticed to some of the most successful fashion designers of the time. He opened his own fashion house in 1952 and instantly rose to fame. He went on to design iconic wardrobes for high profile clients such as actress Audrey Hepburn, US First Lady Jacquline Kennedy and horticulturist Bunny Mellon.

De Givenchy retired from styling in 1995 after selling his eponymous label to LVMH in 1989. He died in 2018 aged 91. His lifelong companion, Philippe Venet, also a fashion designer, died last year. Venet’s collection of nearly 270 lots of post-war and contemporary art, furniture and decorative arts, housed in his Parisian pied-à-terre, sold for 12.8 million euros (14 .6 million dollars) at Christie’s Paris last September.

Most of the lots offered for sale came from two of Givenchy’s houses, Hotel d’Orrouer in Paris and Chateau du Jonchet in the Loire Valley in central France, Christie’s said.

The auction house has yet to release highlights and full content of the sale. Selected items will be the subject of a worldwide traveling exhibition, from Palm Beach, Florida, from March 5 to 26, to New York from April 8 to 13 and to Hong Kong from May 23 to 26 before returning to Paris before the auction.

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Fashion brand

Could Detroit be the next fashion city?

“I think our landlord is like, ‘What are you guys doing?'” Cassidy Tucker said, sitting alongside her sister Kelsey on a Zoom call from their Detroit studio last week. . Around them was a stack of 50 original artworks, with several 8ft by 4ft wall sculptures meant to resemble the pages of a giant storybook. The art was to be pressed into the 26-foot truck they had rented to transport the lot from Detroit to New York for an exhibit called “Don’t Sleep on Detroit.”

Cassidy, 27, and Kelsey, 25, are the founders of Deviate, a playful, unisex line of street and workwear that launched in late 2018 and is produced entirely in Detroit. The sisters love and believe in their hometown’s creative energy so much that their entire business model is built around nurturing and sharing it.

They have recruited more than 50 local artists – fashion and textile designers, muralists, painters, graphic designers and ceramicists – to contribute to the work of the “Don’t Sleep on Detroit” showcase, which will also serve as a fashion presentation for the Fall 2022 from Deviate.

The idea behind the exhibition, which will be held in New York on February 2 and 3 as a press and industry event, is a core conceit of Mohammed/Mountain: Bringing the creative world of Detroit into the court of the big ones. The showcase will return to Detroit and open to the public later this year.

Detroit has long been in the fashion orbit. Highly influential retailer Linda Dresner, credited with bringing Jil Sander, Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons to the United States, ran stores in New York and Birmingham, Michigan, about half an hour from Detroit, for decades. One of the few black designers to be a mainstay on the New York scene, Tracy Reese returned to Detroit in 2019 to launch her enduring collection, Hope for Flowers. Carhartt, the workwear brand that is increasingly linked to street fashion and hype, was founded in Detroit in 1889.

Over the past year or so, interest in Detroit has been reignited by global players: Gucci launched a collaboration with local brand Detroit Vs. Everybody, founded by Tommey Walker Jr., for a capsule collection of T-shirts and announced the opening of a new store in downtown Detroit; Hermès opened a store in the city; and in October, Bottega Veneta hosted what would be creative director Daniel Lee’s final fashion show for the Detroit house.

In March, Michigan’s first historically black college, the former Lewis College of Business, will reopen as the design-focused Pensole Lewis College of Business & Design.

“When people think of Detroit, they don’t think much of the positivity the city has to offer,” Cassidy Tucker said. “It’s often overshadowed by some of the most sensational elements in its history – the struggle, the triumph, the struggle.”

The New York showcase is set up like a storybook written by Kesley Tucker, creative director of Deviate, titled “A Bird Trusts Its Wings.” A metaphor for non-traditional creative careers, the story follows the main character who, mired in self-doubt, wakes up in a bustling world in which all of his ideas have been exiled to live out the rest of his days.

By revisiting them and interacting with them, she realizes that she wants to share them with the world. If the story provides a dreamy backdrop for the showcase, the subtext for it is the tenacity of rambling DIY.

“There’s always a lot of pressure, like, ‘You should be there. You should be doing this,’ Ms Tucker said of her decision to choose to carve her way off the well-trodden roads to the capitals of the fashion like New York, Los Angeles, London, Paris.” The showcase is really us putting the foot down and saying, ‘We can do this from Detroit and bring it to you.'”

Ms. Tucker studied fashion design at Wayne State University in downtown Detroit. After an internship with Vera Wang in Los Angeles, she realized she wasn’t interested in big brand work. “What I’ve learned the most is that fashion is a chore,” she said. “Everything you do in this life is drudgery, but you have to choose your path.”

Hers was driving home and teaming up with her sister who, after graduating from Princeton, had been involved in a ride-sharing startup called Splt and wanted to get involved in social entrepreneurship.

“We were on a mission to put Detroit on the fashion map,” Cassidy said.

How to do that? They had no idea.

They started by reaching out to people in the community, bringing together mentors including Ms. Reese. There’s also Christina Chen, who does public relations for Deviate and has fashion experience at Saint Laurent, Alexander Wang, Shinola and StockX, and Ben Ewy, the vice president of design, research and development at Carhartt.

“People here create their own scenes and have done so for a long time, whether it’s automotive, Detroit techno or workwear,” Ewy said. “People here think differently and create unique products.”

An eco-consciousness is built into Deviate’s ethos – the Tuckers produce almost everything locally and use scrap fabric to cut their clothes when they can – but the social impact is greater. Kelsey mentioned the Antwerp Six, Motown and the Wu-Tang Clan as collectives who started in neglected places and amplified their talents through the power of numbers.

Deviate has also partnered with the Industry Club of Boys & Girls Clubs of Southeast Michigan to offer paid internships. And last year, the company launched the Lost Artists Collective: a series of house parties requiring artists to bring some of their work to enter (they could walk away with someone else’s) which is became a community resource and was the starting point for “Don’t Sleep in Detroit.

Marlo Broughton, 34, a painter and illustrator who helped introduce Detroit Vs. Everyone with his cousin Walker, first heard from Kelsey and Cassidy via direct message, inviting him to one of the parties at the house of the collective of artists, then to participate in the showcase. “They showed me everything and had a full plan,” he said.

The sisters also reached out to Sydney James, 42, a fine muralist and artist, who contributed a photo of her 8,000-square-foot mural, “Girl With the D Earring,” a reinterpretation of Vermeer’s painting “Girl With a Pearl Earring”. featuring a black woman wearing an Old English D.

“I didn’t necessarily understand what it was, but I liked the ‘why’,” Ms James said after being approached for the showcase. “It’s like, ‘We’re going to make them look at us.'”

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Fashion style

Kanye West controlling Julia Fox’s style is alarming, not romantic

Yes. Sounds like Kanye West, who has been dressing women to his specifications, quite openly, for years.

Amber Rose has spoken several times about Kanye’s attempts to control his wardrobe while they were a couple. She said She in 2009: “He’ll choose something and I’ll be like, ‘Oh, my God, I don’t like that at all. And then I’ll choose something and he’ll be like, ‘Baby, just…no.’ I’m more electric pink and bright yellow. And Kanye looks more like nude and bone… I’m not, like, his Barbie.

In his next serious relationship, Kanye has found a much more malleable partner. In a 2012 episode of keeping up with the Kardashians– filmed just months into their relationship – Kanye is seen telling Kardashian to “clean everything out” of her closet. Her requests to keep a few accessories are repeatedly denied, despite being a longtime boutique owner who rose to fame working as a personal stylist.





No secret has been made that Kanye exercised extreme control over Kardashian’s style for the duration of their relationship. In a 2018 episode of her reality show, Kardashian mentioned that Kanye flew to Paris to see her for 24 hours. Not because he missed her, but because he had seen paparazzi pictures of her wearing clothes he didn’t like, and wanted to check out her wardrobe.

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Fashion designer

Using fashion to cultivate self-love

The concept of self-esteem is not new; however, it has grown in popularity in recent years. We are in a time when people are finally realizing that cultivating love within us is essential to being able to love and be loved by others. While it can certainly be difficult, it is an empowering and helpful practice, especially when it comes to improving mental health. I used the Self love workbook in my private practice for years and have seen how this investment often serves as a cornerstone in moving from battling mental illness to thriving with mental wellness. People who can hone their self-esteem often experience benefits such as improved confidence, motivation, and happiness, as well as reduced anxiety, depression, and suicidal tendencies.

One of the many tricky aspects of self-love is inherent in the term: it relates to the self. What self-love looks like to me may not be what it looks like to you. The growing popularity of self-love has been helpful in highlighting the concept, but the trend is that we often explore self-love as it relates to mental health, and therefore suggest strategies alongside common methods in counseling and psychology (eg, meditation, gratitude, reframing). In this series of articles, I explore creative methods for fostering self-love through interviews with experts in their respective fields, including deeper reflection on how to leverage their creative strategies to cultivate love of self.

Source: Image used with permission from Karla Quinones

Karla Quinones is a wedding dress designer and fashion blogger who has been in the industry for 11 years. Since childhood, she dreamed of becoming a fashion designer and started designing dresses at the age of 10. Inspired by romance and elegance, after graduating in fashion design, she began her career in the wedding industry. Passionate about creating beautiful pieces and expressing her style through creative mediums, she has also started a blog, KQNStyle. She hopes to inspire others to use creativity as a form of self-love and pursue their dreams.

Can you tell us a bit about your mental wellness journey?

I knew I wanted to be a fashion designer from a young age. Looking back, I didn’t really know what that entailed. Society tends to glorify the industry, but in reality, the challenges are many. I put my heart into my work. Not only can it be exhausting, but you are constantly criticized for your creations. I noticed that I was starting to show signs of anxiety: my blood pressure was rising and I had racing thoughts. I realized that if I wanted to continue doing this job, something had to change. Now I spend more time trying to prioritize myself. If I can take care of myself, I can create better work, withstand tough feedback, and cushion the pressure of competition in the industry.

What does self-love look like to you?

Now that I know I need to prioritize my mental health, self-love comes in many forms for me. I make sure to prioritize breaks. On a normal day, that might feel like giving me permission to take a break or walk around the block, but I also live for the holidays when I can explore the world and unplug. I have also noticed that I am influenced by the company I keep. For this reason, not only do I need strong boundaries with myself, but also with others. I started prioritizing keeping supportive family and friends in my life and setting boundaries to maintain my balance. One thing that is consistent is that I always do what I love. It’s possible because I do what I can to take care of myself.

What can people in your field of work use to improve their self-esteem and well-being?

1. Immerse yourself in a creative outlet. One of the most creative parts of my career is the sketching process. When you allow yourself the freedom to explore, you bring to light something that wasn’t there before. You create something out of nothing. At that time, the immersion prevents you from concentrating on anything else. In this way, it is a very conscious practice. You can quiet the noise in your mind by immersing yourself in something creative. To me it’s drawing, but it might look different to someone else.

2. Create a mood board. A key part of my creative process is the research period. It is important for me to draw inspiration from various sources and to be able to compile my overall vision. Especially when you are struggling to describe something, a visual representation can help bring it to light when words may fail you. I noticed that I started doing this in other areas of my life as well. While many of my mood boards are about wedding dress designs, my most recent boards have also helped me realize the vision for my own upcoming wedding.

Image used with permission from Karla Quinones

Source: Image used with permission from Karla Quinones

3. Pull clothes like a pro. As a designer and fashion blogger, I didn’t realize that some of my habits were hard to break. A lot of my outfits, especially if they’re for a special occasion, are shot the same way. Create the intention to choose a complete outfit that looks like you. One way to honor your self-esteem is to consider a word you’re trying to convey with this look: Is it bold? It’s stylish ? Set aside some time and browse what you have to browse potential options for head-to-toe dressing. Lay out all the options where you can mix and match to explore. Don’t skip the most important step: try your options. Notice how this look and each piece makes you feel. Don’t like what you have? Use your mood board to explore what a new look would be like for you.

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French fashion

Tan France and Gigi Hadid host Next In Fashion Season 2

Queer Eye’s Tan France and model Gigi Hadid will team up to host the Netflix Next In Fashion design contest for its second season.

Next in fashion has found its hosts for season 2: Queer The eyes style expert, Tan France, and model Gigi Hadid. The series follows designers from around the world as they compete for the grand prize of $250,000 and a debut collection with luxury retail site Net-A-Porter. Tan was also the host of the first season, which premiered on January 20, 2020. He co-hosted with fashion designer and writer Alexa Chung, and the show received high praise from fans. Despite its popularity, Netflix announced in June 2020 that the show would not return for another season. However, the show is now making an unexpected return with Gigi in place of Alexa.

VIDEO OF THE DAY

As a model and designer herself, Gigi has plenty of fashion knowledge that will greatly benefit the show’s contestants. Gigi has been on the cover of fashion magazines like vogue, Harper’s Bazaarand She several times. She has participated in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show three times and has collaborated with American fashion designer Tommy Hilfiger for four collections titled TommyxGigi. Likewise, Tan has her own plethora of fashion knowledge, acting as a fashion stylist on weird eyewhere he helps the episode’s hero change his fashion sense from his current and sometimes dreary style to something more fresh and flattering.


Related: Will Netflix Bring Back The Next Fad Due To Popular Demand?

Tan broke the exciting news about him and Gigi’s new venture on social media Monday night. The star posted a series of photos of him and Gigi on instagram to let fans know that despite the cancellation, the show was back. The stylist captioned the post, “Who would have thought, when we met on Facetime 4 years ago (thanks @evachen212), that we would be hosting NEXT IN FASHION TOGETHER! You read correctly ! The secret is out.The comments were inundated with fans expressing their excitement for the show’s return and their excitement for Gigi to join the cast.


Gigi had a public friendship with weird eye‘s Fab 5 for a few years as the six stars are often spotted together. The stars seem to hang out in the same circle as one of Gigi’s best friends is pop superstar Taylor Swift, who featured the Fab 5 in her 2019 music video for her song “You Need To Calm Down.” The stars also hung out together on Gigi’s one-year anniversary, and Jonathan Van Ness even posted a special anniversary Instagram post referring to himself and Tan as the model’s “guncles” (a jumpsuit gay and uncle.) According to Tan’s Instagram, casting for the second season is now open to all aspiring fashion designers.


Both Tan and Gigi have gained a large and dedicated fanbase through their work in the fashion industry, and their fans are understandably thrilled to see the two working together. Gigi has been in the industry since she was a baby, so it only makes sense that Gigi would accompany Tan during Next in fashion season 2. While the model took time off to raise her baby girl Khai, she’s ready to make a comeback, and the Netflix series seems like the perfect reboot. There is no further information on the new season, but with the positive reception of the show’s new co-host, the two are sure to have a successful run.


Next: Next in Fashion: What Winner Minju Kim Does After the Show

Source: Tan France/Instagram

Teddi Mellencamp on Celebrity Big Brother season 3

Celebrity Big Brother 3: Why Teddi Mellencamp was fired from RHOBH


About the Author

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Fashion brand

Eton appoints pole vaulter Duplantis as first brand ambassador – WWD

Eton has appointed its first brand ambassador: Swedish-American Olympic gold medalist polo jumper Armand “Mondo” Duplantis.

The deal, which is a first for the Swedish blouse in its nearly 100-year history, will make Duplantis a recurring face for the brand in its communications efforts for years to come.

Duplantis, 22, born in Louisiana, who competes for Sweden, is the current world record holder in his event. He also has a strong social media presence with 359,000 followers on Instagram and 29,000 on Twitter. This is her first partnership with a lifestyle fashion brand.

“I’ve always had a love for fashion and the opportunity to represent a heritage brand like Eton is both flattering and exciting,” said Duplantis. “To me, Eton is synonymous with modern luxury and quality with a genuine passion that I admire and can truly relate to.”

David Thörewik, CEO of Eton, said: “With his dedication and passion for what he does, Mondo embodies the eton philosophy. His role as ambassador represents an important step in our history: it reflects what Eton has become and our ambitions for the future. We are honored to partner with Mondo and [are] confident that he will make a significant impression on Eton and our customers – and we look forward to being part of his future success.

The long-term partnership will include Duplantis featured in brand campaigns and he will wear Eton shirts at events around the world. The first campaign is expected to launch later this year.

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Fashion style

Adaptable, provocative, combatively feminine fashion

Designer Jonathan Liang launched his eponymous label in 2014 with the aim of creating “adaptable, provocative yet combatively feminine” womenswear, he wanted to juxtapose his “dream universe” with clothes that women could actually wear in their lives. daily.

Although he launched his Paris-based label long before the current fashion industry disruption in 2022, Liang hasn’t had it easy. For decades, too much fashion has circulated around the world. With new brands popping up almost daily on social media, it’s not easy to stand out, with a distinct creative voice, and make enough money to stay in business.

Originally from Malaysia, Liang has worked for several major fashion brands, including Givenchy and Surface to Air, and this journey has probably given him a better understanding of the vagaries of creating an independent fashion brand.

Still, having survived for more than eight years isn’t bad in an industry as full of fashion failures as it is successes.

Although you could describe the brand as international, it’s its ties to Australia and Asia that have helped Liang expand outside of the traditional European and American markets. Which is doubly helpful now that the rest of the world is slowly eating itself alive due to the economic and social impact of the Coronavirus, Covid19.

In addition to this most unexpected catastrophe, the entire fashion world has slowly woken up to issues of sustainability, ethical production, waste and customer desires to buy less and practice conscious consumerism more widely. .

Sustainability and Covid19

So how does a relatively young, contemporary womenswear brand deal with these additional issues as it grapples with global competitors? Liang says the impact of Covid19 has changed the way he designs and even affected some of the concepts of the brand’s aesthetics while keeping its underlying values ​​intact.

“In terms of design, we decided to prioritize comfort above all else. Since the pandemic, we believe that people are looking for something more comforting, not only physically but also mentally,” says Liang.

“It didn’t change the way we create, it was a lot of asking, is it good for our skin but in [the] context of the new world that we [are moving into]? The fashion industry has definitely changed as a whole, and we are constantly adapting while maintaining our basic design principles. »

As for the growing movement towards more sustainable and ethical clothing production, Liang says he has always taken this into consideration when designing and producing the brand.

“We always think about sustainability, not just [for] the environment, but also the sustainability of the company as a whole, as well as governance,” says Liang. “We are doing what we can to ensure that the smallest [environmental] impact as possible, such as controlling the amount of production, types of fabrics and designs that require very little, if any, waste.

Liang also says the company has always practiced ethical employment, but ensuring its manufacturers and staff have a “solid standard of living from day one.”

A wild garden

Liang’s latest collections have all been influenced by nature, with the concept of a “romantically carefree landscape filled with dramatic creatures” seen throughout.

Flowers feature heavily, not as garish patterns and prints, but rather as an aesthetic backdrop for soft, voluminous and romantic garments. Lace details combined with girlish/boyish cuts create a modern Edwardian vibe.

While pretty and quite #cottagecore in concept, Liang’s current collection includes pieces perfect for the workplace; should we ever come back. The clever use of more masculine fabrics cut into shirt-dress shapes with asymmetrical detailing blends the boy-girl aesthetic perfectly.

Jonathan Liang’s Spring-Summer 2021 collection maintains the romantic and carefree landscape of his previous work: “Each ready-to-wear piece imagined by the brand is not only inspired by, but reflects the characteristics of this fiery plane: from common thought, to the striking flamingo – elements of natural natives prevail in Jonathan Liang’s oeuvre and collective history, fused with her definition of expressive femininity.

The brand’s fabrics are a glorious explosion of all things delicate and beautiful – organza, tulle, lace, silk, silk jersey and Broderie Anglaise. Peachy pinks, white, soft lilacs and grays are offset by black and white in the current season’s color palette for Spring Summer 2021. Quality detailing and craftsmanship ensure garments look beautifully crafted with a sense of timeless craftsmanship about them.

The future of fashion

Jonathan Liang’s cute wearables manifest a nostalgic wish for the pre-Covid19 era, when picnics – or brunch at a trendy cafe – were a daily occasion.

Where will we wear these delicate and feminine pieces in the future? Will we be willing to spend our dwindling money on them? I suppose so, women with a sense of romance, sweetness and wishful thinking will gladly take Liang’s offerings to heart, if only for the nostalgic comfort they bring.

As for the brand, Liang agrees that the fashion industry has undergone some upheaval, but is not yet sure where the future will land.

“…It very much depends on the mindset of each brand’s customers and their circumstances too…so we prioritize slower fashion that stands the test of time.”

You can buy Jonathan Liang online at society-a.com/brand/jonathan-liang/or go to www.jonathan-liang.com/stockists.

For more interesting interviews with fashionable creatives, head over to our Style section.

The original version of the article first appeared on nikibruce.com.

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